No crank no start – Chrysler vehicles?

  • If you have a no crank no start problem on a Chrysler minivan or if you jumper the starter and it still does not start, focus your attention on the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors. Here’s how to test them. It’s common for the wiring harness to these sensors to short out.

What does no crank no start mean?

When your vehicle doesn’t crank or start, you have a very serious problem on your hands known as “no crank and no start.” Putting the key in the ignition and turning it should cause the engine to at least turnover. If it does not, you probably have an engine-based problem.

What can cause a no crank condition?

A no-crank condition usually means the starter system on your vehicle is receiving power—or little power—but a failure in the starter, solenoid, or some other part in the system—perhaps the engine itself—is preventing the crankshaft from turning.

Why won’t my Chrysler Town and Country won’t start?

The most common reasons a Chrysler Town & Country won’t start are a dead battery, an alternator problem, or failed starter.

What does it mean if your car won’t start but the lights come on?

Broken or Damaged Ignition If your headlights can turn on, but your car won’t crank, that means that your battery is charged, but either the starter or ignition is the problem. If the starter or ignition is the problem, a starter engine can be jumped by using a charged battery.

When I turn the key in my ignition nothing happens?

If nothing happens when you turn the ignition key to the “Start” position, it means that the starter motor doesn’t turn over the engine. Most commonly this could be caused by a dead battery; read above How to check the battery.

What is a TIPM failure?

The Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) on your vehicle contains an internal fuel pump relay that could operate intermittently or fail without warning. An intermittent or failed fuel pump relay could cause the engine to stall while driving and cause a crash without warning.

What is a TIPM on a Chrysler Town and Country?

The TIPM ( Totally Integrated Power Module ), located near the battery in the engine compartment of a 2008 Chrysler Town & Country, houses the fuses and relays that help regulate your vehicle’s high current electrical system.

Where is a starter relay located?

The starter relay location may vary depending on the vehicle type and model. It can be in the fuse box (also called a power box), the fuse panel under the dash, or on the right fender. Most cars will have it located under the hood, inside the long box with a black cover.

Chrysler 200 Questions – No start and no crank

Update: The process outlined below was successful in resolving the issue, and the repaired SVS valve lasted almost 18 months until the car began to display the same code. I changed the SVS valve with the one given below, and the car has not thrown any problems in the last two years. I highly recommend this valve. To get valves comparable to the Dorman 911 vacuum valve if you do not have a Sienna, go to Amazon and search for “Dorman 911 vacuum valve.” – He took me there in his car. Earlier this year, the emissions test on our 2001 Toyota Sienna failed in Massachusetts.

It’s just that, after a few years of aggravation with automobiles, I made the decision to pursue other enjoyable endeavors in my life.

1- I have a far better shop, as well as much more capable tools than I did previously.

secondly, I’ve transformed into a radical Makepunk.

  • What are you talking about?
  • As a result, I purchased a code reader from Scantool and conducted some study on frequent problems.
  • It is positioned behind the plastic cover between the gas tank and the spare tire in my 2001 Toyota Sienna, and it is responsible for evaporative emissions.
  • I then reassembled the shield.
  • Then I’d intend to drain it and gently bake it till dry in a very well aired location until it’s no longer sticky.
  • The local hardware shop offered a number of rubber stoppers to block the canister’s orifices, and I blew into a tube until the edges of the canister bulged – far greater pressure than it would ever face in normal operation – yet there were no leaks.
  • I was reasonably convinced that they were not trapped or damaged, though, after blowing into their different apertures and hearing pleasing snaps and experiencing proper resistance.

When I went to the local auto parts store, they didn’t have what I was looking for.

It was rusted to a tee, but I was able to bend the tabs back and take it apart.

The problem persists despite my best efforts to clean everything completely.

When I reassembled the valve, the plunger moved smoothly and the valve worked properly again.

In conclusion, instead of thinking like a mechanic who changes assemblies, think like a Maker who looks for the fundamental cause!

Now, the vehicle must be driven through a few more cycles before the ECU sets the’readiness’ code, which allows it to be re-tested for compliance.

I did have to pay $98.95 for the scantool, but it was necessary since it was time to start repairing my own vehicles again, and they were largely ODB-II, so I needed a scanner in the first place, and it was still far less than the $720 the dealer had charged me!

Chrysler 300 won’t start – causes and how to fix it

The Chrysler 300 is a dependable road companion, but it is also a complex machine with hundreds of interrelated parts, and like any other machine, it can occasionally fail to perform as expected when on the road. Throughout this post, we’ll go through the most prevalent reasons of Chrysler 300 breakdowns, along with suggestions for how to remedy the problem. The Chrysler 300 is a mid-size sedan. When your Chrysler 300 does not start properly, the most common causes are a dead key fob battery, a dead 12v battery, corrosion on the battery terminals, a bad alternator, a partially clogged fuel filter, a broken starter, an overheated fuse, an empty gas tank, an immobilizer error, or any fault in the electrical system.

1. Weak Battery

A weak or dead 12v battery is the most likely cause of your Chrysler 300’s engine not cranking or cranking extremely slowly, according to the manufacturer. An in-depth investigation and a battery voltage test will determine whether the problem with starting is caused by the battery or anything else. A battery test may be performed to determine the voltage between the battery poles, check the acid level, and evaluate the condition of the starting battery, all of which are important. If you have recently installed a new vehicle battery, it is possible that the battery has not yet achieved its maximum capacity.

A fresh battery does not develop its full capacity right away; it takes time.

Test 12v battery

Multimeters are useful for measuring the voltage of the battery in your Chrysler 300 with pinpoint accuracy. A multimeter is adjusted to the voltage range of the battery and its plus and minus poles are attached to the battery’s plus and minus poles prior to performing the test. In most cases, a successful test of a car battery, i.e. verifying the voltage, results in readings of about 12 to 13 volts. Values more than 14 volts or less than 11.5 volts need a professional evaluation of the state of the automobile battery.

Jump start Chrysler 300

It is simple to jump start your Chrysler 300 if the battery in your car has died. You may use jumper cables and a healthy battery from another vehicle, or you can use a battery booster if one is available. Connect the red wire to the positive terminal of your Chrysler 300’s dead battery first, and then connect the red cable to the positive terminal of the donor battery after that. After that, connect the black wire to the negative terminal of the donor battery and then to the bare metal in the engine compartment of your Chrysler 300 to complete the installation.

Remove the cables by removing them in the opposite sequence.

2. Corrosion on battery

If the contacts of your vehicle batteries get corroded, this results in a loss of contact and reduced current flow, which means that your engine will no longer be able to start correctly. In order to determine whether or whether your Chrysler 300’s starting troubles are caused by filthy battery connections, you must first evaluate the problem. It is possible to inspect the battery terminals for corrosion by lifting the rubber coverings that cover the two battery connections.

In the event that you detect white deposits or silvery-green deposits on the battery but no additional fractures or damage, you do not need to replace the battery; simply clean it.

Clean battery corrosion

To clean the batteries on your Chrysler 300, you must first remove the pole cables, which needs no special expertise and just a little amount of focus due to the importance of following the procedure exactly. Remove the black cable from the negative pole first, then the red cable. If the pole clamp is too tight, you may need to use pliers to loosen it. Metal pliers are not recommended, but if you must use them, make sure that you do not come into contact with any other areas of the body while doing so.

After removing the battery from the circuit, you may begin cleaning the corroded battery with acetone.

3. Weak key fob battery

The key fob battery in your Chrysler 300 may be weak if your car has a push start/stop button. If your Chrysler 300 has a push start/stop button, it’s conceivable that your vehicle may not start due to a weak key fob battery. It is not need to worry since you can still start your vehicle because the battery is just utilized to deliver the signal for locking and unlocking the doors. When the battery in the key fob runs out, the door will no longer lock or open with the push of a button. After that, the doors must be opened manually.

Passive refers to the fact that the transponder in the key does not require its own power source, among other characteristics.

How to start Chrysler 300 with dead key fob battery

Try positioning your key fob as near to the start/stop button as you possibly can if you have a Chrysler 300 model that just has a key fob with a start/stop button and no area to enter a key. After that, start the car. However, if this does not work, consult your vehicle’s operating handbook to find out exactly where the key fob should be placed, as this may vary depending on the model. You can try starting your Chrysler 300 with the second key if you have one. It will also rule out any other issues that could be associated with the first key, such as water damage.

4. Broken starter motor

The starter on your Chrysler 300 is a motor that is used to start the engine. The normal life of a starting motor is around 100,000 to 150,000 miles, and the life will be lowered if the engine is started more frequently than once every two weeks. As a result, due to its limited lifespan, the starting motor will fail after a prolonged period of use. If the starter motor fails, the engine will not start. It is normal to hear a clicking sound when you turn the key in the ignition to start the engine of your Chrysler 300.

A malfunctioning starting motor can be suspected if the starter motor does not operate with a fully charged battery.

Temporary fix for starter

If the engine does not start as a result of the starter, you may be able to get the engine to start by turning the key while striking the starting motor with anything heavy, such as a stick or metallic tool. Using this workaround, you can fix a starter that has pieces that have been jammed together or that has gears that are a little out of alignment.

However, it is conceivable that the starter is reaching the end of its useful life, in which case it is advised that you get it evaluated at a dealership or repair facility.

5. Defective alternator

An alternator is a type of generator that generates electrical current. If the alternator in your Chrysler 300 fails, the vehicle will be unable to produce energy, and the battery will be unable to charge properly. If you believe that the battery is the source of the engine’s inability to start and replace it, the battery will eventually run out of power and the engine will cease to operate. Alternators are extremely reliable and seldom fail. Modern automobiles, in particular, have enhanced performance, and it is estimated that they will endure between 200,000 and 300,000 kilometers.

Keep your guard up at all times.

6. Clogged fuel filter

Unlike mechanical parts, the gasoline filter in your Chrysler 300 does not wear out over time; instead, it becomes clogged with dirt and airborne particles with time, causing it to clog. The permeability of the filter decreases, and the fuel pressure decreases as a result. If the gasoline filter is excessively unclean, the engine may not function at its maximum capacity and may even fail to start entirely in some cases. However, this is not always the case. Cleaning is not feasible; the only option is to replace the filter.

7. Fuel pump failure

If the gasoline pump in your Chrysler 300 stops working, the engine will not start. In normal operation, the pump ensures that the correct quantity of gasoline is transferred from the tank to the engine’s injection system while maintaining proper pressure. The following symptoms frequently appear before your fuel pump fails: your car’s engine has periodic failure, the car is difficult to start, the engine jerks slightly, or the engine performance decreases. You should get your pump examined as soon as possible if you observe any of these symptoms.

It is common for the gasoline pump to be visible before it fails if it leaks, or if a power contact is damaged, a line or a pump lever is broken, among other things.

8. Blown fuse

An overheated fuse in your Chrysler 300’s circuit breaker box might possibly be the source of the problem in some instances. Check all of the fuses in the fuse box that are required for the engine to start. However, when it comes to assisting yourself with the fuse box, proceed with caution! Because the box is powered, any repairs or testing should always be performed in a workshop setting.

9. Defective spark plugs

The engine will not start if the spark plugs are not in working order. The spark plugs themselves are frequently unaffected by a manufacturing problem.

Instead, the ignition system’s plug connections get loosened due to corrosion. If the problem is limited to a single loose plug, you may be able to resolve it on the spot. It is necessary to get a spark plug replaced in the workshop if one has failed.

10. Rodent damage

Another possible cause of your Chrysler 300’s inability to start is rodent damage. The creatures burrow beneath the car and chew away the cables and wires that run through it. In theory, this has the potential to disrupt all vehicle systems, including the fuel supply, the oil supply, and the electricity supply. If you glance into the engine area, you should be able to notice the rodent damage very fast. Repairs can be made at the workshop to the damage caused by the rodent’s attack. Be prepared to spend a lot of money at this place.

See also:  Transmission Leak Transmission slips in gear?

11. Engine failure

Although extremely unusual, it is possible that your Chrysler 300’s engine will fail as a result of this problem. When the engine of a car fails, nothing in the vehicle functions anymore. Vehicle damage is prevalent, and it is not unusual for the driver to be held liable for the damage. Common causes include shredding of the timing belt, poor fuelling, inadequate lubrication, a hydrolock, overheating of the engine, and prolonged running at speeds that are too high for the vehicle’s capabilities.

Use OBD2 scanner for diagnosis

A fault diagnosis can offer preliminary suggestions as to where the defect is situated because the Chrysler 300 is equipped with on-board diagnostics (OBD). First and foremost, you must connect the diagnostic tool to your Chrysler 300 before you can begin troubleshooting. The OBDII connection is often found under the dashboard of a vehicle. After connecting the wire, you should turn the ignition key to the on position. Keep in mind, however, that you should avoid starting the engine. Once this information is obtained, the majority of diagnostic equipment will ask for more information about the vehicle.

In addition to the car brand and model, you will typically be required to provide the engine and vehicle identification number.


There are a variety of reasons why your Chrysler 300 might not be able to start. You should always start with the most obvious reason, which is an empty battery, while looking for the source of the problem. In any event, it is recommended that non-professionals call a breakdown service or a workshop for assistance. The latter has the ability to directly commence repair in the case of a malfunction.

Intermittent no crank/no start

On July 10, 2013, at 8:46 p.m., Initiator of a thread, Junior MemberJoined on July 13, 2013 Number of posts: 13 No cranking/no starting on an intermittent basis Okay, so I’m having a problem with a Town and Country 2003 3.8 v6 pickup. It was while I was in the grocery store that I encountered the first problem, which I can now pinpoint. I get out of the car, turn off the ignition, and walk inside the business. When I return to the van, it will not start or crank when I turn the key; however, after about three turns, it will start and crank.

  1. I suppose this occurred once more that day, but it has already begun, so I am on my way to the location.
  2. I have it hauled to my house, and the next morning I go out and attempt to start it again.
  3. It dies out of nowhere a short time after it has started up.
  4. Everything is fine if you turn it off, then on, then off, then on again.
  5. For about 2 days after that, when I went outside and tried to start it, it wouldn’t crank.
  6. It was 0700 and 0725 when I went to Autozone to get the codes pulled.
  7. After that, I replace the crankshaft position sensor, the car starts and I drive it for a few hours before coming to a complete stop and discovering that the car will not start or crank at all.
  8. Since then, it has sat in front of my house, not cranking or starting at all, and has not been moved.
  9. The same can be said for the battery.
  10. It’s possible that the pcm, the neutral/park switch, or the SKIM module is malfunctioning.
  11. The pcm, according to my findings after conducting extensive research, is to blame.

However, I do not wish to spend $300 if it is not absolutely necessary. As a result, any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you to everyone who has contributed, and please do not hesitate to contact me with any questions or comments.

Diagnosing a no-start issue on a Chrysler Town and Country

08:46 p.m. on July 10th, 2013. Initiated a thread as a junior member in July of 2013. There are 13 posts. No crank/no start intermittently The issue is with a Town and Country 2003 3.8 V6 that I’m having. It was while I was in the grocery store that I encountered my first problem, which I can now pinpoint. I get out of the car, turn off the ignition, and walk into the store to purchase something. It takes approximately three turns to start or crank the van when I go back out, but it does start and crank straight away once I get back in.

  • My understanding is that this occurred once more that day, but it has already begun, and I am on my way.
  • I have it hauled to my house, and the next morning I go out and attempt to start it up once more.
  • It dies out of nowhere not long after it has begun.
  • I let it run for 5-10 minutes to make sure everything was working properly.
  • Again, nothing happens when you switch it off and then try to restart it.
  • After a few minutes of driving, it appears to be in working order.
  • After that, I replace the Crankshaft position sensor, and the car starts and runs for a few hours until coming to a complete stop and finding that the car would not start or crank at all.

Since then, it has sat in front of my house, not cranking or starting at all, despite several attempts.

and the battery is also inoperable The only thing I can come up with is that it might be multiple things.

If anyone has any additional recommendations or ideas, I would much enjoy hearing them.

Because of all of the study I’ve done, I personally believe it’s the pcm.

We would certainly appreciate any assistance you might provide.

Thank you for your time and consideration!

I always want to know exactly how a system is supposed to work before I try to figure out why it isn’t working. Here, I learned that there were 2 modules in charge of the relay.

Begin by doing a complete system scan. I started my inquiry by scanning the whole car using a DTC scanner. The fact that there were none on hand was a complete surprise to me. After several unsuccessful attempts to duplicate the problem, I was saddened to discover that the vehicle cranked, started, and ran each and every time the ignition key was turned to the “START” position. I checked the car for aftermarket components and found none that warranted a condemnation. I then decided to look at TSBs and search Identifix for any failures that were comparable to mine (I like to go this route, especially when I have issues duplicating a complaint).

  • What should I do next?
  • Early in the diagnostic procedure, determining what isn’t wrong with the car is just as important as determining the source of the symptom the client is experiencing.
  • Just as the afternoon was drawing to a close, the guy informed me that I could have the car for as long I wanted, provided he could get it back to him with a certified fix.
  • I came at the business before the opening time of 7 a.m.
  • Automobiles with problems like the one in question are often examined after the morning rush hour.
  • I switched the key back to the “Off” position and tried again to start the car.
  • For this reason, I decided that the best course of action could be to locate and isolate a specific defect directly at its source (the starter circuit, because it has stopped operating) and work my way out of the quagmire.

It is now necessary to do more investigation.

To begin troubleshooting at this time may prove to be a premature and costly mistake that will result in increased costs.

Experience has shown you that taking the time to design a game plan and putting it into action will get you to the root of the problem far more quickly than jumping in without a strategy.

85, the TIPM energizes the starting relay coil and activates the starter.

86 on the power supply.

It is true that the starting relay is controlled by two computers, one at each end, but how can the two ECUs communicate with one another and know what to do when?

We still don’t have enough information to make a determination about the overall system functionality.

Unfortunately, there was no description or explanation of how the beginning mechanism worked as a whole.

Understand what is expected to take place initially.

It was to the ignition switch that I went.

Is it possible that the cancellation of the beginning operation was a “normal characteristic”?

WIN modules are housed within still another node, which is referred to as a WIN module (or Wireless Ignition Node).

The WIN is equipped with a self-contained ignition switch that serves just as an input to the WIN.

The TIPM will then produce a voltage signal to the starter relay while also transmitting a start request to the PCM over the same CAN channel as the starter relay.

Oh my goodness, it is a really busy system!

However, I would want to start my investigation at the high current side of the system (starting relay), which is where the work is done.

The strategy to my madness is to photograph what is “disappearing” as soon as the starter stops working.

I’m looking for straightforward access to the circuit so that I may acquire a lot of information for a relatively minimal investment of effort.

The goal is to provide me with the opportunity to test the relay in its typical location.

Look at Figure 1 for a moment now.

85 of the relay (which is on the TIPM side), and the yellow trace is located at terminal No.

Both traces contain three separate events, as can be seen in the diagrams.

I then turned off the ignition and cranked the engine for a few seconds, and it started right up without a hitch this time around.

The third try is a little different in appearance.

Of course, a failure on either side would prevent current from flowing through the relay coil windings, and as a result, the starter would stop working.

Is it possible that the failure was caused by a fault on the PCM side of the system?

It might be that the driver has failed, or that the B+/Ign/Ground feed is weak.

It is also possible that the TIPM is instructing the PCM to cease and desist from performing its duties.

As a result of my observation of the failure via the eyes of a 2-trace labscope, I have established that the failure appears to be occurring on both sides of the circuit.

Given that we’ve done our due diligence and are aware that this system communicates with the outside world over the CAN bus, I’ve interfaced my scan tool with the WIN and opted to monitor for the request for “Start” from the WIN on the TIPM.

Logic tells me that the WIN is not the source of the erratic starter operation, because the TIPM never lost the order from the WIN during the erratic starter operation.

Unfortunately, despite several attempts to monitor the PCM PID for crank-request, the failure just did not occur when I was paying attention to it (just my luck).

I made the decision to focus my testing on a wider range of components rather than simply the relay terminals.

Despite the fact that some believe it is excessive, the following quote from John Anello is my favorite: “It’s like fishing with a net instead of a hook.” Because unpredictable failure occurs very seldom, I have a lot of time to devote to this diagnosis.

I’d want to show you a zoomed-in version of the failure-event.

Approximately 250ms later, the purple trace is pushed high (TIPM), delivering the power to the relay coil and completing the circuit.

The voltage is hanging about 10 volts at the moment (fairly normal to what type of load a typical operating starter places on a battery).

In addition, during this failure occurrence, the PCM maintained a “low” setting, allowing it to continue doing its job.

It clearly looks like the TIPM may be the source of the problem at this point.

My real test findings, together with my newly acquired knowledge of the system’s configuration, formed the basis for my report (the “players” involved in making the starter function).

Figure 2 shows that the PCM is still operational.

Knowing this, it is plausible to assume that the PCM resigned because the TIPM instructed it to do so. TIPM was the only one who threw in the towel after the ensuing collapse of the project. The TIPM is to blame in each of these instances.

After I replaced the TIPM, I ran some basic tests again to make sure all worked as designed.

Is It A “PIG?” Or A Module? To begin with, I must examine the “PIGs” (power, ignition, and ground) of any computer before passing judgment on it. The acronym WATER, FOOD, and AIR has served me well in the past to remind myself that a computer need all three of these components to work properly, just as I require water, food, and air to exist. Figure 3 depicts a cranking event that occurred during a failure when the PCM was monitoring the PIGs. The PCM is equipped with all it requires to carry out its responsibilities.

  • The TIPM proved to be far less difficult to test.
  • Five distinct terminals on three different connections provided ground supply to the TIPM, none of which raised when the engine was cranking, as seen in the diagram.
  • Not all diagnoses are as straightforward as they appear.
  • When properly educated, well equipped, and properly interrogated (with the correct logic, knowledge, and questioning technique), the vast majority of codes can be decrypted quite fast.
  • I will keep difficult discoveries like this one with me for the rest of my life since they are the building blocks of expertise and efficiency.

Why My Classic Car Won’t Crank Over

Owning an antique automobile has its drawbacks, one of which is that they tend to sit for extended periods of time. As we approach the vehicle with the key in hand, we are frequently concerned about whether she will start or not. Professional mechanics categorize no-start situations into two primary categories: mechanical and electrical. For example, there is the situation in which the engine turns over beautifully but refuses to fire up. This section will cover the second category of problems, which is when a vintage automobile won’t start at all (also known as dead battery).

Why Cars Won’t Crank

Without a doubt, a problem with the battery is the most common reason for an engine that would not crank in any type of vehicle. Given that vintage automobile owners are already aware with the proper way to manage a battery during long-term storage, we’ll only briefly touch on this topic before moving on. When storing automobiles for extended periods of time, it is recommended that the battery be removed from the vehicle. It is best to keep them in a clean, dry environment with moderate temperatures if at all feasible.

We won’t have to go back and check the battery if the car won’t start while the battery is known to be fine, therefore we’ll save time.

Sometimes we put our classics in storage with the expectation of using them in the near future.

In this circumstance, it is advised that the batteries and wires be replaced so that we can be confident that our cranking voltage will be acceptable.

Identifying the Problem

However, although the battery and the starting motor are frequently the core causes of a no crank issue, many historic automobiles have a few other components in between these two devices that must be considered. An external starting solenoid was often seen on vehicles from the 1940s until the early 1970s, and it is still widespread today. Although the mounting location might vary, the upper portion of the firewall is a typical choice. They are placed on the inside fender skirt on the passenger side of antique Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury automobiles.

  1. Despite the fact that these gadgets are dependable, it is unlikely that the designers anticipated that they would endure for more than sixty years.
  2. A collection of electrical connections located inside the relay allows current to travel to the starting solenoid, which starts the engine.
  3. In contrast to the relay, an external starting solenoid is capable of carrying large voltages.
  4. It is expected that when the key is pressed to the crank position, voltage will be present on both sides of the solenoid.
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Tips for Diagnosing Starter Relays

Turning the key to the crank position and listening for a clicking sound are two methods technicians use to get a head start on diagnosing a car problem. Despite the fact that this test has its advantages, you will need to do a more thorough investigation before changing any components. One thing that the click noise test confirms is that power is being delivered to the circuit from the battery. Even if a starting relay generates a clicking sound, it may fail to provide electricity through its closed contacts.

The connection of a classic automobile starting relay will frequently have four wires connected to it.

As soon as you turn the ignition key to the crank position, an additional 12 V should be fed into the relay, and a corresponding 12 V should be fed out on the wire that connects to the starting solenoid.

7 Reasons Why Your Car Won’t Start

This morning, it’s a wonderful day outdoors. The sun is shining brightly, and the weather is absolutely wonderful. You get into your car, ready to start your hectic day, when you realize that your car won’t start. Oh no! When your automobile won’t start, there are a variety of possible causes. There are several things you can check on your own before contacting for assistance.

To begin, check to see that the steering wheel is not locked in place. Another easy reason for your car failing to start is a gas tank that is completely depleted. It’s conceivable that you’re only on “E” because you were running low on gasoline earlier (or because your gauge is broken).

Car still won’t start?

Your automobile may not start even after you have checked the steering wheel and made sure you have gas, and the problem might be caused by one of the following factors:

  • The battery is dead. An out-of-charge battery is the most common cause of a car that won’t start. If you have a battery tester, you may use it to determine whether or not your battery is weak. Try jumping your automobile with jumper cables if you don’t have one on hand
  • Battery deterioration is a possibility. Corrosion on your battery may be quite dangerous. Make a visual inspection and cleaning of your battery posts to ensure a clean, full connection before attempting to start your automobile once more. An employee at an auto store can point you in the direction of the appropriate goods and provide guidance on how to clean your battery. The starting motor is faulty. Essentially, the starting motor is responsible for physically turning the engine over and igniting the combustion chamber. A new timing belt will be required if this is the case
  • The old one will need to be replaced. In order to avoid valve and piston contact, the timing belt guarantees that the engine’s valves are opened and closed at precisely the appropriate interval. The timing belt is the most critical component of your engine’s maintenance schedule. A broken timing belt can result in severe engine damage, necessitating the replacement of the engine. The timing belt should be replaced according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. Most of the time, this is based on mileage
  • Typically, the period is every 60,000 miles or five years (whichever comes first)
  • Distributor cap that has been broken or shattered. The distribution cap is responsible for distributing electricity from the engine’s ignition coil to the spark plugs and other components. In the event that moisture seeps under the cap, it may cause troubles for your vehicle. Before reinstalling, wipe it out with a clean, dry cloth to remove any residue. Make certain you replace a broken cap or an ignition coil that has failed. The ignition coil is responsible for converting the voltage of a battery into an electric spark. A faulty ignition coil indicates that there is insufficient electricity to do this. The intensity of the current flowing through the coil will be tested using a multimeter (a gadget intended for measuring electrical current, voltage, and resistance)
  • A clogged fuel filter will also be required. It will be impossible for the engine to start if the fuel filter is blocked with debris. If this is the case, a replacement will almost always be required.

If you are unable to repair the problem yourself (or do not feel comfortable working under the hood), contact a reputable auto technician. If your car won’t start, Roadside Assistance coverage * may be able to assist you. Roadside Service coverage from Erie Insurance covers for modest vehicle towing and related labor charges at the location of the breakdown.** For additional information, contact your local ERIE agent. Comprehensive coverage on the car is required in order to receive roadside assistance.

  • When your automobile won’t start, it’s a major hassle—and there are a variety of reasons why this is the case.
  • The firms that make up the Erie Insurance Group are not permitted to conduct business in every state.
  • The insurance products and pricing, if any, discussed in this blog are current as of February 2018 and are subject to change at any moment without prior notification.
  • The policy provides detailed data about the coverages, terms, restrictions, and exclusions that apply to each individual policyholder.
  • They are not available in all states.
  • The District of Columbia, New York, and Wisconsin are the only states where ERIE Medicare supplement products are not accessible.
  • It will be assessed at the time of application whether or not you are eligible based on the underwriting standards and rules in place at the time of submission.

Why Won’t My Car Start?

Every automobile owner, without a doubt, dreads the moment when their vehicle refuses to start. What should you do in this situation? Who should you get in touch with? Is it possible for you to fix it yourself? Listed here are 10 frequent reasons why automobiles won’t start, as well as what you may do to resolve the situation. In the words of Joe Spadafora, certified instructor of the Universal Technical Institute’s Exton, Pennsylvania campus, “the first step is to identify the no start.” Spadafora worked in the service department of multiple dealerships for the duration of his career, during which time he also received factory training from General Motors.

As a result, if there’s anything wrong with your car, the odds are he’s seen it before.

If you want to figure out why your automobile won’t start, you must pay attention to what happens when you turn the key in the ignition.

According to him, it’s vital to remember that a car is an extraordinarily intricate equipment that might present identical symptoms for a variety of causes.

‘That is why it is critical to first determine the kind of ‘no start’ and then to review the list of factors that might be the root cause of the problem.’

Why a car won’t start – troubleshooting tips

The most recent update was on July 7, 2021. When your automobile won’t start, it may be really annoying. While twisting the key or pressing the Start button, you are doing the following: There is no action. This has happened to almost every automobile owner at some point. There are several things that might go wrong with your automobile, but there is no need to be concerned because there is a remedy for practically every problem. Often, it’s something as easy as a dead battery that causes the problem.

If your vehicle has Push Button Start, you should review this tutorial.

Once you understand where things go wrong, you will have a better understanding of why your automobile won’t start and what you should do next.

What happens when you are trying to start the engine?

The key to start the engine 1. Do you have the ability to turn the key in the ignition? YesNo 2. Do the instrument panel lights come on when you turn the key in the ignition? YesNo Is the “Security” or “Key-shaped” light in the instrument panel illuminated or flashing continuously? Whether or not the “Check engine” light illuminates is a personal preference. YesNo 4. When you put your key in the “Start” position on your ignition, what happens? No action is taken and the engine will not turn over.

In order for the engine to turn over (crank), it must turn gently.

Do you find that shaking the key in the ignition when you’re starting it makes it easier to start?

If the starter turns over normally but the car won’t start, follow the steps in this guide: The engine turns over but would not start «

What to check first

First, make sure you understand the fundamentals: The battery on your automobile is fully charged, right? Continue reading for information on how to check the battery. Are the automobile battery terminals securely fastened and free of corrosion? If the automobile does not start with the automatic gearbox in “Park,” does it start with the automatic transmission in “Neutral”? It is possible that a car will not start in “Park” but will instead start in “Neutral” if there is an issue with the neutral safety (transmission position) switch on the dashboard.

Why does a car refuse to start in Park but does so in Neutral?

See the section below for further information about the security light. Is your vehicle equipped with an anti-theft system that, for whatever reason, prevents the vehicle from being started?

How to check the battery

It is one of the most typical causes for a car not to start when the battery has run out of battery charge or is entirely dead. Frequently, we just leave the dome light on on or an item hooked into the power outlet, which causes the battery to deplete. If a vehicle has been parked for an extended period of time, the battery is likely to be low on charge. Sometimes, if the battery is old, it will just stop working one day, even if it was working well the day before. Even though the battery is fully charged, if the battery is short on charge, it will not have enough power to turn the engine over.

  1. Take, for example, this video.
  2. If they are moving very slowly, much slower than normal, it is likely that the battery is low on charge.
  3. When you start the car or turn on the wipers, you may notice that the light becomes quite faint.
  4. Obtaining the voltage of the battery A multimeter may also be used to check the voltage of the battery.
  5. Any voltage less than 12 Volt indicates that the battery has been drained.
  6. One method of accomplishing this is to jump start your automobile and let the engine to run for a short time.
  7. In contrast, if the battery is more than 5 years old, it may be fully dead, which means that even if you boost the battery, it will not accept charge and the car will not restart once you have turned the ignition off.
  8. When the alternator is malfunctioning, the battery will not charge properly as well.

The key won’t turn in the ignition

The key may not turn in the ignition for a variety of reasons, including but not limited to: If the steering is locked in place by the ignition lock while driving down a slope with the front wheels turned aside (for example, while parking on a steep hill), or if one of the front wheels is forced against anything, this can occur (e.g. curb). Attempt to spin the steering wheel left and right while gently jiggling the ignition key – this may assist to unlock the steering lock in this situation. One other possible explanation is that there is an issue with the ignition lock or with the key itself.

Make use of a spare key if you have one.

No lights on the instrument panel

This indicates that there is no electricity from the battery when you switch on the ignition and no lights come up on the instrument panel. It might be caused by a dead battery, a loose battery terminal, or something else, such as a broken ignition switch or a blown main fuse, among other things. To test whether the battery has power, turn on the headlights.

If they function, the problem is likely to be with the ignition switch, fuses, or cabling that connects the ignition switch and the batteries. If the headlights don’t function, it’s possible that the battery is fully dead. Read on for more information on how to jump-start your business.

“Security” or Key-shaped light stays on or flashes repeatedly

Light indicating a security breach The majority of modern automobiles are equipped with an immobilizer or a security system that only allows the engine to be started if the correct key is used. The ignition key is equipped with a chip that contains the security code. When you turn the key in the ignition, a sensor for the security system checks that the code is correct. Normally, when you turn on the ignition, you would see a “Security” light illuminate for a brief period of time before turning off.

  1. Whenever you turn on your car’s ignition, if the “Security” light remains illuminated or flashes repeatedly, it indicates that the security system has failed to recognize the key or that there is a problem with a specific component of the security system itself.
  2. Some General Motors vehicles, for example, experienced issues with the security system sensor located near the ignition lock.
  3. In certain earlier automobiles, there was a simple technique to re-learn the key that could be performed to resolve this issue.
  4. If nothing works, try using the spare key, and if that doesn’t work, contact your dealer.

The “check engine” light does not come on

The Check Engine light is illuminated. When you turn the ignition key in the ignition before starting the car, the “Check engine” light illuminates, showing that the engine computer (also known as the PCM, ECM, or ECU) has been turned on and is operational. Alternatively, if the “Check Engine” light does not illuminate with the ignition turned on, it is conceivable that the engine computer is not receiving any power (e.g., owing to a damaged wire, a malfunctioning main relay, or a blown fuse), or that there is an issue with the engine computer itself.

The starter won’t crank

You will not hear or see anything happen when you turn the ignition key to the “Start” position because the starting motor is not able to turn the engine over. The most typical reason for this is a dead battery; see the section above on how to check the battery for more information. It’s conceivable that the battery is in good condition, but the starting still won’t crank for any number of reasons. Here are only a few examples: It’s possible that the starting motor or a starter solenoid has failed – this is a regular problem in vehicles with higher mileage.

  1. It’s possible that the ignition switch is faulty – this is a typical problem.
  2. First, check the ignition switch to see if jiggling it about in the ignition helps to start the car.
  3. It is possible that the control wire for the starting solenoid has a poor connection.
  4. The failure of a car to start in Park but instead in Neutral might be caused by a problem with a neutral safety switch or with the shifter cable, which are both located on the transmission shifter.

For example, have a look at this video. More information about the beginning system may be found here. Additionally, a fault with the vehicle’s security system or another electronic control module (for example, an ECM or a BCM) may prohibit the starter from functioning.

I can hear a click, but the starter won’t crank

If you turn the key to the “Start” position on your ignition, but the engine won’t crank, all you hear is a single click or repeated clicking coming from the engine compartment, you’ve probably had this problem. This is frequently caused by a weak battery or a faulty connection at the battery terminals, which are both common causes. The battery cable itself can become corroded on the inside, resulting in the same problem. However, a faulty connection between the negative battery line and the engine (a bad ground) might also result in same symptoms in rare instances.

See also:  P0116 code Honda?

Also, verify sure the battery terminals are not rusted by inspecting them as well.

If the battery appears to be in good condition and the battery connections look to be clean and tight, the beginning solenoid or the starter motor itself may be the source of the issue.

More information may be found at: starter motor, starting system.

The enginecranks very slow andwon’t start

In addition, a weak or discharged battery might be to blame; refer to the paragraph above for instructions on how to check the battery. If the battery is in good condition, it is possible that the battery cables have a faulty connection at the terminals or that the starter motor itself has a problem. The starting motor armature bushings can wear out over time, causing the starter armature to rub against the field coils within the beginning motor, causing the starter motor to spin extremely slowly.

There is also the possibility that the engine is suffering from an internal mechanical problem (e.g., lack of oil, very old engine oil).

Learn how to check engine oil by reading this article.

The engine cranks progressively slower, then just clicks

This indicates that the starting motor does not have enough power to turn the engine over and it cranks slower and slower until it merely clicks. Fortunately, because there are only two connections (positive and negative) that carry electric power from the battery to the starting motor, diagnosing the problem should be rather straightforward. Once again, a low-quality battery is the most prevalent cause of this problem. This problem might also be caused by a faulty starting motor. These symptoms can also be caused by a poor connection or corrosion at the battery terminals, as well as by faulty battery cables.

Jiggling the key helps start the car

When there is a difficulty with the ignition lock or the ignition switch, jiggling the key may be of assistance in solving the problem.

If, for example, an older Ford Escape truck had a defective ignition lock module, the car would not start but jiggling the key would get it to start again. Take a look at this video.

Jump-starting a car

Using the strength of another vehicle’s excellent battery or a jump starter pack, a jump start can be used to jump start a car with a poor battery. You’ll need jumper cables and another car with a decent battery or a booster pack to complete this operation, which should take no more than a few minutes. Check your owner’s handbook for the proper procedure, as the connecting points on various automobiles are located in different places than on others. It is critical that the jumper wires are connected in the proper manner, therefore carefully follow the directions.

You may read more about it here: Where can I get a copy of the owner’s manual?

No Crank/No Start ❤️ What You Need To Know! ❤️

Engine cranking is the term used to describe your engine rotating over and over without being able to provide any power to the vehicle. The term “crank” is derived from the phrase “crankshaft,” which refers to the component of a vehicle that drives the pistons in your automobile. This joint effort between the crankshaft and the piston is responsible for providing power to the vehicle by spinning the engine through its cycle and delivering the necessary spark to each cylinder to ignite the internal combustion and generate power.

If you discover that you are having no crank/no start conditions in your car, this might be due to a problem with the crankshaft or battery.

If your vehicle’s starter is not performing its intended function of turning the engine, the fault is almost certainly with the vehicle’s electrical system.

Check out how to diagnose the no crank/no start situation, the indications and symptoms of the no-start condition, and how to avoid having this problem in your car in the following sections.

Diagnosing the no crank/ no start condition

When you realize you have a no crank/no start scenario in your vehicle, there are a number of tools you may use to diagnose and isolate the source of the problem in your vehicle. In most cases, when you detect this problem, the first thing you should do is check the battery level. The most typical reason of this awful no-start scenario is a faulty battery or a malfunctioning battery charging mechanism. Turning on your headlights is a simple and effective technique to identify and resolve a battery problem.

Imagine that the headlights turn on and are at the appropriate brightness level, without flickering on and off or growing dim over time. This is a realistic scenario. That means the battery function is operating at the proper level, and the battery connections are secure in that situation.

Use a Load Tester

The moment you become aware that you have this no crank/no start scenario in your vehicle, there are several instruments you may use to diagnose and locate the source of the problem in your automobile. As a rule of thumb, the first thing to look for when you observe this issue is a low battery. The most typical reason of this awful no-start scenario is a faulty battery or a malfunctioning battery system. Turning on your headlights is a quick and easy approach to evaluate and identify a battery problem.

This is a reasonable assumption.

Carbon pile

When using a carbon pile tester, you must first connect the tester to the battery before using it. After you have completed your analysis and verification of the voltage measurement, you will switch on the carbon pile tester. It is recommended that the surface voltage of a properly working battery be more than 12.6 volts. In order to establish the cause of the no crank/no start problem, you must verify that your battery’s voltage does not go below 9 volts when testing. If you discover that your battery voltage has gone below 9 volts while checking for a no crank/no start scenario, this is a strong indication that your battery is defective and needs to be replaced immediately.

Inductance Tester

Things will be a little easier and quicker to figure out the source of the no crank/no start problem if you use an inductance tester rather of a carbon pile tester to figure it out. This diagnostic tool requires nothing more than a connection to the battery and entry of information from a battery label. In a matter of seconds after pressing the button, the reading will appear on the screen, allowing you to determine whether the no crank/no start scenario is due to a problem with your battery.

Analyze Battery Connections

The battery connections should be checked as the second step in checking for a no crank/no start scenario and determining the underlying cause of the problem before proceeding. Once you have determined that the battery is in good operating order and is not the primary cause of the problem, you may investigate whether or not the battery connections are interfering with the electrical system’s performance. Performing an examination of your battery’s connections may enable you to determine whether contaminated components, debris, dirt, or excessive build-up are to blame for the no crank/no start situation in your car.

It is possible to verify that the no crank/no start issue is not caused by debris by inspecting and maintaining the battery cables’ cleanliness and strength.

Causes of No Crank/No Start Condition

There are a variety of reasons why you may be experiencing no crank/no start with your car. In contemporary automobiles, there are a variety of functions, mechanics, and sensors that must all work together in order for your vehicle to operate efficiently. It is possible that some components are more prone to damage and wear and tear than others, and that this is contributing to your car’s inability to crank or start the engine. If you have a contemporary automobile, the check engine light may also illuminate.

This might assist you in troubleshooting the cause of your engine’s failure to crank and start. Because there is no means to access the memory of an older vehicle, you will have to figure it out on your own in this situation.

Faulty Crankshaft Position Sensor

When it comes to the no crank/no start issue, this is most likely the most typical reason to suspect. Crankshaft position sensors can malfunction, resulting in improper operation of the car’s internal computer – the engine control unit – and therefore, improper performance. The crankshaft position sensor is controlled by the engine’s computer, which means that if it senses a problem, the check engine light will illuminate on the dashboard.

Signs of Damaged Crankshaft Position Sensor

A malfunctioning tachometer is a telltale indicator that the crankshaft position sensor is malfunctioning. The computer requires information about the engine speed from the sensor in order to send information to the tachometer at that point in time. If the sensor is not functioning properly, the tachometer may indicate that the crankshaft position sensor is malfunctioning. Third, your fuel economy will not be as excellent as it typically is, and your fuel efficiency will suffer as a result of the changes.

Your gas mileage will be significantly lower than normal, indicating that you have this problem.

The computer will be unable to provide any spark to the engine, resulting in the engine cranking but not starting.

It is possible that a defective sensor will cause an engine misfire, the engine to stall entirely, or the no crank/no start scenario to occur.

Damaged Fuel System

The fuel pump ensures that the engine receives the necessary quantity of gasoline in order for it to run effectively. If the gasoline pump is not functioning properly, the engine will not be able to operate and will shut down automatically. It is possible to experience no crank/no start if the fuel pump, fuel injector, or fuel filter are malfunctioning or broken. Unfortunately, there is no way around a damaged or malfunctioning fuel pump when it comes to this gasoline issue–you will need to fix or replace the fuel pump in this case.

The fuel filter’s primary function is to purify the gasoline before it enters the engine.

The last thing that could be wrong with the fuel system is a problem with the supply line for the gasoline.

A damaged or blocked supply line means that the gas cannot reach the engine, and the engine will not operate properly. It is possible for the no crank/no start scenario to occur if gas cannot be delivered to the engine.

Empty Fuel Tank

This is a regular event that almost everyone has experienced: you become sidetracked and fail to keep an eye on your fuel gauge while traveling. You will not be able to start your automobile if you run out of petrol while traveling. Your engine will crank, but it will not turn on. However, it’s possible that you’re not entirely to blame. Another reason why your automobile can run out of petrol is if the fuel gauge isn’t functioning properly. Regardless of the reason for your car being out of gas, you should get it checked by a repair to determine the exact problem and determine why you are having a no crank/no start scenario in your automobile.

Damaged Alternator

The alternator is responsible for supplying your car with a steady stream of power. If your automobile suddenly shuts down while you’re traveling, it’s probable that your alternator has failed. When your alternator fails, it will disconnect the electricity to your automobile, alerting you to the problem with a flashing dashboard light or by causing the engine to shut down unexpectedly. If you pay close attention to your vehicle, you will notice that the alternator is failing over time. You will notice that your automobile is receiving inconsistent amounts of power, which will result in the no crank/no start problem in your vehicle.

Broken Engine Control Unit

ECU stands for engine control unit, and it is responsible for controlling the numerous systems and functions of the car, ensuring that it operates smoothly. This engine control module regulates the operation of the internal combustion engine’s actuators in order to keep the engine operating at peak performance. If there is a problem with your car’s ECU, you may experience power loss in your vehicle. In most cases, you will see the check engine light illuminated on your dashboard. If this light comes on, you should take your vehicle to a repair right away.

Furthermore, you will not be able to repair an ECU yourself in order to save money.

Ignition Timing Is Off

ECU stands for electronic control unit, and it is responsible for controlling the numerous systems and functions in your automobile, ensuring that it performs properly. To guarantee that the internal combustion engine operates at peak performance, this engine control module regulates the actuators on it. Power might be lost in your automobile if there is a problem with its electronic control unit (ECU). The check engine light will typically illuminate on your dashboard. If this light comes on, you should immediately take your vehicle to a repair.

You also can’t save money by attempting to repair an ECU on your own. When your automobile shuts down while you’re driving, the only thing you can do is to take it to a competent repair.

How to Prevent No Crank/No Start Condition

Maintaining your vehicle on a regular basis will help to reduce the likelihood of experiencing a no crank/no start issue in your automobile. Make a habit of checking critical components such as the engine on a regular basis, and be sure to heed any warning indicators displayed on your dashboard. Have a discussion with your specialist about the actions that need to be completed, the parts that require frequent maintenance, and a timetable that you should follow. If you maintain your vehicle on a regular basis, you lessen the likelihood of your vehicle shutting down while you are driving, resulting in further costly repairs and replacements for both you and your vehicle.


In order to reduce the likelihood of experiencing a no crank/no start issue in your vehicle, you should do routine maintenance on it. Make a habit of checking critical components such as the engine on a regular basis, and be sure to heed any warning indicators displayed on the dashboard. Have a discussion with your specialist about the procedures that need to be completed, the parts that require frequent maintenance, and a timetable that you need to follow. Maintaining your vehicle on a regular basis lowers the likelihood of it shutting down while you’re driving, resulting in more costly repairs and replacements for both you and your vehicle in the future.

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