- If you’re hearing a water sound in the dash there is probably air in the system. Fixing it might help coolant flow through the heater core but the most common cause of the no heat on the passenger side is gelled coolant blocking the flow through the part of the core that supplies heat to that side.
Why is my truck blowing hot air on one side and cold air on the other?
Blend door actuators are the most common reason for the car air conditioning to blow cold air on one side and hot air on the other. They can be diagnosed with an advanced scan tool. If it does not move with the adjustments and commands, there is a problem with the blend door actuator and it will need to be replaced.
Why does my car have heat on one side but not on the other?
You have a dual zone system in your vehicle. There will be separate temperature controls for each side and there may be a separate control for the rear seat passengers. Simply match both sets of controls, right and left sides, and you should be getting the same temperature air out both sides of the dash.
Why is my car blowing out cold air when the heat is on?
There are a few basic issues that usually lead to the blowing of cool air from one’s car heating system: There isn’t enough coolant in the engine. There is a problem with your heater core. Your thermostats are not working correctly.
Can a blown fuse cause no heat?
Fuses. A blown fuse is a symptom not a cause. If a new fuse blows as soon as the blower is turned on, the heater circuit or motor may have a short that should be investigated. If the fuse lasts a while and then blows, the fan motor is probably running hot due to worn brushes and/or bushings and should be replaced.
Why is cold air only on passenger side?
The most common reason is that the AC equipment that cools the air is under the dashboard in the center and right side of the vehicle (because the steering column get’s in the way). So, the air to the driver’s side has to go farther. That allows it to heat a little more.
Where is the actuator located?
The AC actuator is located above or below the coil. It can be set to either single speed or variable speed. When it is not working properly, your AC will be ineffective, and your power bills can skyrocket.
How much does it cost to fix a blend door actuator?
Blend Door Actuator Replacement Cost The blend door actuator usually costs between $100 – $300 depending on the car’s make and model, before labor costs. On average you can expect to pay around $150 for the actuator itself.
Can I add Freon to my car myself?
You’ve likely run low on refrigerant in your A/C system. Over time, tiny amounts of refrigerant leak from the lines, degrading A/C performance. Recharging your air conditioner yourself is inexpensive and can be completed in just a few minutes.
Can a bad radiator cap cause no heat?
Radiator cap: Your radiator cap regulates the pressure in the cooling system, acting as an escape valve if the pressure gets too high. If it sticks in the open position, there will be insufficient pressure in the system, and the coolant will not get hot enough, reducing the heater’s output.
Can low coolant cause no heat?
First, check your coolant level to be sure there is enough liquid in there to even get to your heater core. If your radiator is very low on coolant, you’ll get no heat. If your levels are okay, you either have a bad water pump or a thermostat that isn’t opening.
Why is my car not blowing hot or cold air?
If your blower only works on the highest setting, your blower motor control module probably needs to be changed. If the fan isn’t working, you probably need to have the blower motor fixed or changed. If the air coming through isn’t hot, the heater core is probably clogged.
Is there a fuse for the heater blower in my car?
Many vehicles have two fuses for the blower motor, one in the interior fuse block and the other under the hood. The blower motor is usually under the dashboard on the passenger side.
What to check if heat is not working?
Heater Not Working? 7 Troubleshooting Tips:
- Check that your thermostat is set to “heat.”
- Change the filter.
- Make sure the gas is on.
- Clear the chimney exhaust flue.
- Clean away leaves and debris from exhaust vents.
- Flush out the drain lines.
- Check for blocked ducts restricting airflow.
How do I know if my thermostat or water pump is bad?
Answer: If the temperature gauge indicates the engine is overheating, the water pump bearing may be faulty and not allowing coolant to circulate properly. Another possibility is the thermostat is not functioning right. Depending on your particular model, you can try to listen to the pump with a length of hose.
No Heat From Passenger Side Vent: as the Temperature Has Began to .
As the weather in our area has begun to decrease, the heat in my wife’s automobile has also begun to drop. The blower motor would only operate at high speed at first, but this was a simple remedy that just replacing the blower motor resistor. However, she is only receiving hot air from the driver’s side vent, which has been corrected. The passenger side vents are frigid, but the center two vents are warm. Even when I turn on the defrost, the driver’s side is hot and the passenger’s side is cool; the same is true when I turn on the floor.
I’ve only been able to track down three.
Actuator for mode selection; Actuator for temperature selection.
Everything I’ve read online about this problem leads to the mix door actuator, but all of the examples I’ve seen had dual climate control, so I’m not sure whether this is the source of my problem, given that mine does not.
- The volume of air flowing through all vents is consistent, indicating that nothing has been obstructed in the vent.
- Assuming I do not have dual temperature control, I believe that air will just travel through one primary vent rather than through all four front vents in the same manner.
- Please accept my apologies for the book, but I am hoping that you can assist me.
- IS THIS A SPONSORED LINKDo you have the same difficulty as I do?
- on Monday, November 11th, 2019,
Stumped! No Heat On Passenger Side, Help! – GenVibe
Thank you for visiting genvibe. If there is air movement out of the cold vents, it appears that there is no obstruction in the ducts. The enigne temp and drivers vents are working properly, indicating that the thermostat is not the problem. According on what you stated you had already investigated, it appears that there is a problem with the heater core, which might be caused by a trapped air bubble or some type of blockage. Pictured above is an inside view of a Matrix heater core, with an inset indicating the heater core’s placement and orientation in the HVAC box within the vehicle.
- When it’s put in the automobile, the hose connections are located on the driver’s side of the vehicle.
- It appears as though the air would be mingled in the ductwork since there would not be such a distinct left/right division, but it appears to be the only explanation available for your case given the circumstances.
- When the heater is mounted in the vehicle, the lowest (closest to the ground) edge of the heater is linked to the higher of the hose connections at the firewall beneath the hood, which serves as the outlet.
- Even while I haven’t done it in a Vibe or Matrix, I have done so in other cars in the past, and in those cars, it was a task to be avoided at all costs.
- It’s possible that simply replacing the hoses at the ends of the heater core pipe ends under the hood, near the firewall, will solve the problem.
- One issue is that by replacing the hoses, you may wind up reintroducing air into the heating hoses, necessitating the need to burp or backflush the system once more.
But if it works, you may as well leave it that way; I’m not sure if it makes a difference in the long run. It’s possible that I’m incorrect, and if you do this and your car explodes, don’t hold it against me. Please see the attachments.
No heat on DRIVER side only. Passenger side gets heat
I’m experiencing the same issue. My vehicle is a 2006 Honda Odyssey with almost 200,000 miles on it. Controls for two temperature zones. Even though I receive heat out of my driver’s side, it’s (about) 20 degrees colder than the passenger’s side. On frigid days in Ohio, where the temperature drops below 32 degrees, I can’t even get the van warm enough to go to and from work, which is an hour drive. I’ve examined the blend doors, and they appear to be in working order. The temperature controls function by raising and lowering the amount of heat or cold air being circulated.
- I believed my air conditioning unit was running low, so I filled the compressor with air, and I may have filled it a bit too much, causing the compressor to blow.
- It’s quite depressing.
- In such case, an air bubble must have moved as a result of the heat being lost.
- Since then, a little heat has returned, but only to the level it was previous to cleansing the heater core (20 degree difference from passenger side).
- The fan on the driver’s side is just as powerful as the passenger side, but the heat is 20 degrees cooler.
- I’m puzzled as to how to remedy this.
- Is there anyone who knows what the optimal dual zone setting would be to make the cabin at least a little warm?
No heat on passenger side, not the actuator
You are currently using an out-of-date web browser. It is possible that this or other websites will not show correctly. You need either upgrade your browser or switch to another one. 513IowaBuick is a registered trademark. 64 Riv, as well as 96 Riv Greetings, everyone! For the life of me, I can’t figure out what’s wrong with me. I’m having a bizarre problem. Hopefully, you wise individuals can offer some guidance. Last night, when driving home in my 2006 Lucerne, the passenger reported that the heat began blowing frigid air, but the driver’s side was pleasant and comfortable.
- However, this morning I dismantled the lower portion of the dashboard and discovered that all four actuators in the vehicle are in fine operating order.
- I was impressed.
- What makes you think that’s even possible?
- Thank you in advance for any suggestions you may have.
- It just so happened to exhibit the same symptoms as a faulty blend door actuator at the same time.
- As a result, I backflushed the heater core, which resulted in the heat on the passenger side being heated.
- I had the same problem on my 07, and I was almost confident it was the actuator that was to blame.
I should have tried flushing it first, but at 168k, it was most likely close to being done with it.
How in the world did you gain access to the actuator on the passenger side of the vehicle by removing the bottom section of the dashboard?
I had to unplug the accompanying wire in order to turn it off, but of course it didn’t fix the problem.
If you were able to figure out how to get to that actuator without pulling out the entire dashboard, I would really appreciate knowing your trick!
In respect to your problem, I can understand how a partially blocked heater core may have an affect on one side of the automobile but not the other side of the vehicle.
Every year, all you have to do is empty the overflow tank and refill it with new water.
Because coolant is inexpensive, it makes sense to keep it in good condition to help avoid corrosion.
Despite the fact that I respect your knowledge and determination in working on your automobile, I feel compelled to comment on your decision to replace the coolant in the overflow tank.
It is pointless to waste money by dumping out a couple of quarts of oil and refilling it every year, even if the oil is inexpensive.
It would be preferable to flush the entire system and replace all of the fluid based on the service interval (or even longer), which would be significantly less expensive in the long run than discarding a couple of quarts of fluid every year, and flushing actually accomplishes the entire task as well.
- It’s a very substantial tank in terms of size.
- A small quantity of coolant is drawn into the overflow tank each time the engine is started, and an equal amount is pulled back out after the engine has finished cooling.
- Considering that the coolant has a seven-year shelf life (as indicated on the coolant bottle), if you replace one-sixth of it every year by replacing only what’s in the cooling tank, it should be nearly the equal of a full change every seven years, right?
- I’m not trying to downplay the need of a thorough flush for an engine that hasn’t had any of its coolant replaced in a few years, but if you have some fresh coolant in there all of the time, the system shouldn’t clog or corrode, right?
- In addition, turning on the heat in the midst of summer, according to what I’ve read, is a free way to assist maintain your cooling system by keeping the coolant circulating through the heater core and preventing rust buildup in there.
- I discovered that when using the Prestone flush kits, you can never get more than approximately half of the water or coolant out of the engine by simply opening the bottom radiator drain, which is a significant problem.
- So, after draining all of the water that can be drained from the radiator using the radiator drain, you start pouring pure coolant to the recovery tank in an attempt to get the necessary 50/50 mix, but you never really know when the combination is correct.
To get the coolant out of the automobile, you must first remove the entire front bottom plastic protective plate and then detach the bottom radiator line from the vehicle.
Plus: If I’m wrong and someone with more expertise than I do has a unique viewpoint, I’m always open to hearing from them!
Look no farther than right here at our very own forum store – where orders are mailed out the same day they are placed!
Isn’t it true that if you change 1/6 of it every year by simply changing what’s in the cooling tank, it should be about the equivalent of a complete replacement every seven years?
I’m not sure if that is helpful or not, and any and all comments is very welcomed.
Regardless of whether you are incorrect or if I possess greater expertise than you, you are clearly a proponent of preventative maintenance, which is a positive development.
To me, it’s analogous to emptying a quart of oil when you need an oil change and replacing it with a new one, and repeating this process at each oil change interval.
Surely, what you are doing with the coolant is not harmful, but I’m not sure if you’re wasting your time and money by doing it this way.
It appears to be rational.
I use all of the off-season items, such as the sun roof, a few times in the winter, and when the air conditioner was not automatic with the defrost cycle years ago, I used to use the air conditioner in the winter.
Because the back windows are rarely used, I also lower and raise them on a regular basis.
I’m not sure about those Prestone do-it-yourself projects.
194818 Buick OwnershipBuick Ownership I’m not even sure how a do-it-yourselfer should go about flushing the coolant in this Northstar.
You split the hose in half and attached their T-tape, which was exactly suited for a garden hose, to the end of it.
When they were finished, they provided you a tight-fitting cap for the freshly fitted T-fitting in the heating hose, which made it easy for you to do the same type of flush the following time around.
However, this obnoxious Northstar is devoid of even a single radiator drain. You’re going to have to flush it out through the recovery tank, is I right? On a Northstar, I’m not sure how to properly cleanse it, so I simply keep the coolant in the overflow tank fresh.
Driver’s side heat works, passenger side heat does not work
- There is an issue with your browser since it is not up to date. The webpage you are trying to view may not show properly. We recommend that you upgrade your browser or switch to an alternate browser altogether. Ownership of 513IowaBuick 64 Riv and 96 Riv are the two most common Riv numbers. Greetings to everybody! For the life of me, I can’t figure out what’s wrong with me. I’m having a strange difficulty. It is hoped that you wise individuals can offer some guidance. Last night, while driving home in my 2006 Lucerne, the passenger reported that the heat began blowing chilly air, but the driver’s side was lovely and toasty warm. Assuming that it was a minor inconvenience, I reasoned that it was almost certainly the passenger-side actuator that had gone faulty and was locked in the cold-air position. I took the bottom section of the dash away this morning, and discovered that all four actuators in the car are completely functional. I was surprised! So much so that I was able to physically adjust the air blend door on the passenger side after unclipping it. But the air temperature has not changed despite the fact that I can hear and feel the mix door moving. What makes you think that’s possible? 🙂 And no, I haven’t accidentally sprayed any candy down the defrosting vents. Any suggestions or comments are much appreciated. Ownership of John513IowaBuick 64 Riv and 96 Riv are the two most common Riv numbers. Anyone who is interested in knowing the latest information: I discovered that the heater core had become half blocked with gunk. That it had the same symptoms as a malfunctioning blend door actuator was merely a fortunate coincidence! this is something I’ve never understood till now Anyway, I re-flushed the heater core, and the heat on the passenger side is now working properly again. Ownership of the 2123CTBuick Roadmaster (95/96), Riviera (97), Lucerne (07), Lesabre (87/89) When I was driving my 07, I had the same problem and I was almost positive it was the actuator. Because I was changing the actuator, I chose to swap out my core. I should have tried flushing it first, but at 168k, it was most likely close to being ready for a replacement. Ownership of a 1948-18 Buick Buick The fact that you’ve piqued my interest is rather remarkable. I’m baffled how you were able to get to the passenger-side actuator by removing the bottom section of the dash. The reason for my inquiry is that I do have a faulty passenger actuator, and you could hear the gears crunching inside as I drove the vehicle. The only way I could get it to turn off was to disconnect the accompanying wire, but that didn’t work, so it’s not working anymore either. By removing the blower fan, I was able to get to the bottom mounting bolt of the actuator, but according to GM, you must remove the entire dash center console in order to repair the actuator. If you were able to figure out how to get to that actuator without pulling up the entire dashboard, I would very appreciate knowing your method. Apparently a dealer wants $1500 to install it, but for that money you also have all four $20 actuators changed, which is a good value in my opinion. I can understand how a partially blocked heater core may have an affect on one side of the car but not the other in your situation. It’s possible that the hot coolant isn’t flowing properly at the portion of the heater core closest to the passenger side air intake (?) The cost of coolant is low, thus it is worthwhile to keep it in good condition to help prevent rust from occurring. Every year, all you have to do is empty the overflow tank and replace it with new contents. 1,0092948 ownership of a buick formerly owned by lucerne Chrysler 300s have been a favorite of mine. The cost of coolant is low, thus it is worthwhile to keep it in good condition to help prevent rust from occurring. Every year, all you have to do is empty the overflow tank and replace it with new contents. While I applaud your knowledge and perseverance in working on your automobile, I have to express my displeasure with your decision to replace the coolant in the overflow tank (see below). It holds around 1/8th or less of the total coolant capacity (on your Northstar, this may be much less). It is pointless to waste money by dumping out a couple of quarts of oil and refilling it every year, even if the oil is inexpensive. It does not remove any of the old fluid or deposits in the radiator or heater core, which was the source of the OP’s complaint. If one were to cleanse the entire system and replace all of the fluid depending on the service period (or even longer), it would be far less expensive in the long run than dumping a few of quarts every few years, since flushing really does the complete task. 194818 ownership of a chevrolet chevrolet The Northstar overflow tank stores an unknown amount of liquid, but I’m estimating half a gallon. It’s a rather substantial tank in terms of volume and capacity. According to my research, the total capacity of the cooling system is little more than 3 gallons. A little amount of coolant is drawn into the overflow tank each time the engine is started, and an equal amount is drawn back out when the engine cools down. Consequently, whatever new coolant you add to the overflow tank will eventually be recycled throughout the whole engine system. Considering that the coolant has a seven-year shelf life (as indicated on the coolant bottle), if you change one-sixth of it every year by replacing only what’s in the cooling tank, it should be nearly similar to a full change every seven years, correct? You may also verify the quality of the coolant using a low-cost hydrometer if you are in any question about it. I’m not trying to downplay the need of a thorough flush for an engine that hasn’t had any coolant replaced in a few years, but if you have some fresh coolant in there all of the time, the system shouldn’t clog or corrode, am I right? This is a technique that I believe I saw in a 1Aauto repair video some time ago, although I don’t recall all of its specifics. In addition, turning on the heat in the midst of summer, according to what I’ve heard, is a free way to assist maintain your cooling system by keeping the coolant flowing through the heater core and preventing rust buildup. No idea if this is helpful or not, and any and all input is very valued. I discovered that when using the Prestone flush kits, you can never get more than approximately half of the water or coolant out of the engine by simply opening the bottom radiator drain, which is a significant issue. So if you flush it for half an hour with plain water and/or some type of detergent combination, you’ll end up with an engine that’s half-full of water after you’re done with it. Consequently, after draining all of the water that can be drained via the radiator drain, you begin adding pure coolant to the recovery tank in an attempt to get the necessary 50/50 mix, but you never really know when the mix is correct. That Northstar engine has a number of significant flaws, one of which being the lack of a bottom drain on the radiator. To remove the coolant from the automobile, you must first remove the entire front bottom plastic protective plate and then detach the bottom radiator line. The fact that you invariably break some of those cheap plastic rivets that keep the bottom plate in place is a real pain in the buttocks. Plus: If I’m wrong and someone with more expertise than I do has a unique viewpoint, I’m always open to hearing from them. Interested in upgrading and updating your Buick luxury automobile? Look no farther than right here at our very own forum store – where orders are mailed out the same day they are received. 1,0092948 ownership of a buick formerly owned by lucerne Chrysler 300s have been a favorite of mine. Isn’t it true that if you replace 1/6 of it every year by simply changing what’s in the cooling tank, it should be about the equivalent of a complete overhaul every seven years? In addition, turning on the heat in the midst of summer, according to what I’ve heard, is a free way to assist maintain your cooling system by keeping the coolant flowing through the heater core and preventing rust buildup. No idea if this is helpful or not, and any and all input is very valued. Plus: If I’m wrong and someone with more expertise than I do has a unique viewpoint, I’m always open to hearing from them. Regardless of whether you are incorrect or if I possess greater expertise than you, you are clearly an advocate for preventative maintenance, which is commendable. To be honest, I’m not certain the coolant change is doing any good. Taking a quart of oil out of your car when it needs to be changed and replacing it with a new one is analogous to doing it at every oil change interval, in my opinion. How long would it take for the oil to return to its pre-change condition? Surely, what you are doing with the coolant is not harmful, but I’m not sure if you’re wasting your time and money by doing it in the first place. In my experience, turning on the heater in the summer is not something I have heard of or done. What you’re saying makes perfect sense! That type of work is something I do as well. Every off-season item gets used, including the sunroof, which gets used a couple of times in the winter. When the air conditioner did not have an automated defrost cycle years ago, I would use the air conditioner throughout the winter months. For the sake of keeping everything lubricated. It is also necessary to down and up the back windows on occasion because they are rarely utilized. So, to summarize, when it comes to coolant, my preference is for a thorough flush of the radiator. These Prestone do-it-yourself projects aren’t my cup of tea. Have my car serviced at my local garage while it is being serviced for another reason, and it took far longer than the recommended maintenance period in the Owner’s Manual. 194818 ownership of a chevrolet chevrolet A coolant flush on this Northstar is something I’m not even sure how to accomplish on my own. Prestone used to sell a system that let you to connect a hose to your heater, but it was long gone. You split the hose in half and attached their T-tape, which was exactly suited for a garden hose, to the end of each end. Afterwards, you opened up the radiator drain valve, linked the garden hose to the T-tap, and drained everything out via the radiator drain valve. You were given a tight fitting cap for the newly fitted T fitting in the heating pipe once it was completed, which made it easy to perform the same type of flush in the future. A radiator drain, on the other hand, is not present on this ridiculous Northstar. Consequently, I assume you’ll have to flush it out through the recovery tank? I’m not sure how to properly flush a Northstar, so I just keep the coolant in the overflow tank topped off.
PennSilverTacoEncyclopedia of useless information.
- Date of joining:July 15, 2014 Member:134007 Messages:44,741 Gender:Male Charlie’s first name is Charlie, and he lives in Central Bucks, Pennsylvania. The vehicle is an RC auto 5-lug slug from 2010. As it turns out, this is exactly the reverse of what occurred with my truck. It would blow ice cold on the driver’s side but warm/outside temperature on the passenger side when I turned on the air conditioning. It turned out to be a leaking evaporator core. Possibly, you’re running short on coolant and/or you have a leak in your heater core.
Clearwater BillSometimes when I close my eyes, I can’t see.
- On October 11, 2014, I became a member. Member:140097 Messages:18,413 Gender:Male BillyLargo Florida is his given name. Vehicle: ’13 5 lug basic air conditioning with a convenience package a few of original equipment pieces from high-end vehicles Make use of the Haynes to build a fire in the passenger floor (in a bucket) for your wife while driving. That’s an excellent description of what they’re capable of. Of course, this is just my opinion. Moving on, it appears that I’ve read about something similar to this around here, and perhaps even learned how to remedy the problem. Have you ever been the victim of a similar incident in the past, Jimmyh? Possibly due to the air conditioning, but I’m wondering whether the root cause might have an affect on the heat as well
- Charlie, your coolant level is GTG. I’ll check for dampness on the carpet first thing in the morning tomorrow to see whether the heater core has sprung a leak. As a result of receiving heat on the driver’s side but not on the passenger side, I believe the heater core is fine, but the blender is stuck or the blender actuator is malfunctioning (I hope the rest of Germany does not interpret this as a negative comment). Bill, I think I’ll go ahead and adopt your proposal for the Haynes guide. Everything serves a function in some way. It’s possible that this will keep Mama warm for a while. I sought Jimmy up on the internet and went through his writings, but I couldn’t find anything related to this scenario. However, thank you for your suggestions.
Clearwater BillSometimes when I close my eyes, I can’t see.
- On October 11, 2014, I became a member. Member:140097 Messages:18,413 Gender:Male BillyLargo Florida is his given name. Vehicle: ’13 5 lug basic air conditioning with a convenience package a few original equipment pieces from high-end vehicles
- The only issue I had was with the air conditioning, which was cold on the driver’s side but became warmer as you moved your gaze to the vents on the passenger side. My problem was a leak in the high-pressure hose and condenser coils, which I had to repair. The battery was replaced and there are no longer any problems. I’m not aware of any heat-related difficulties because it was July in South Carolina and I didn’t turn on the air conditioning. I’m going to suppose that the heater core has been clogged
- Thank you for the post and the link, Jimmy. What I’ll have to do in the morning is get out there and see what I can find out. On the plus side, there isn’t any dampness on the carpet, so I don’t have to worry about a leak. This evening after work, I opened up the glove compartment and replaced the cabin filter. Because I couldn’t make out where the blender was, I’m assuming it was just behind the center console. I couldn’t find anything beneath the dash on either the driver’s or passenger’s side
- But, this is where I am so far. Recap: Outside, it’s really cold, and I’ve got heat on the driver’s side but chilly air on the passenger side of the car. There are no dual zone controls available. I took the glove box and the tiny storage box located in the upper part of the glove box out of the car today. As I worked my way around the dashboard, I was able to push each of the switches in succession (clockwise from 12: defrost, defrost and floor, floor, floor and dash vents, dash vents) and watch as the blender actuator changed its settings. I had taken the cabin filter out, so I could see the door open, which was used to guide air up to the defroster unit. I was able to place my hands in front of the various vents and feel the difference when the settings were altered (meaning I could feel air coming out of the dash vents and then feel it stop when I changed settings). When I changed the fan speed, I could see the fan whirling and feel the difference in pressure as the fan speed increased or decreased. As a result, I concluded that everything was functioning well. After that, I went on to the heater coil. From the engine compartment side of the firewall, I hooked a hose to each of the heater core tubes and flushed it in both directions, before reconnecting the hoses. I chose a transparent 12mm hose that fit perfectly in the tubes, allowing me to observe the water flushing through the core as it happened. At first, I got a lot of brown water, but when it started flowing clean, I altered my route of travel. When I changed directions, I was able to get some more sediment out of the water, which was now running pure. I hooked up the lines and poured in some coolant before taking her for a spin. Results? The heat is working better on my side, but the passenger side is still blowing chilly. After some consideration, I’m wondering whether the blender door is not truly moving as it should, despite the fact that I can feel the difference in pressure when I alter the settings. But it’s going to take a son of a gun to attempt to figure out what’s going on. Due to the fact that I am getting heat on the driver’s side, I am not certain that the heater core is the problem. If the schematics I’ve downloaded are correct, I believe there are two blender doors located inside the blender. Whether the blender actuator is changing positions, I’m wondering if the blender doors, or one of the blender doors, is not moving as it should, and I’m only getting minimal flow over the heater core from that side despite the fact that I could see the blender actuator changing positions. It’s possible that it’s too loose on the shaft, or that the shaft isn’t spinning as smoothly as it should when the actuator switches positions. I can’t seem to get a screwdriver to work on the two screws that hold the actuator bracket in place, but I’m going to have to figure it out and get it off in order to see if I can manually move the blender door shaft. No idea whether these vids will work or not, but I’m willing to give it a go. I was a little unsteady since I was attempting to hold the camera, keep an eye on the actuator, and hit the control buttons all while gazing at a rather small location. More online browsing, and I’m beginning to believe that I didn’t check everything. If this diagram is any clue, I was checking the Mode Control Servomotor, and I should have looked a little lower and to the left to see if the Air Mix Control Servomotor was working properly.
- Date of joining: October 11, 2014 Date of joining Member:140097 Messages:18,413 Gender:Male BillyLargo, Florida is his given name. ’13 5 lug base air conditioning with convenience package a couple of original equipment pieces from high-end pickups
- The only issue I had was with the air conditioning, which was cold on the driver’s side but became warmer as you moved your gaze to the vents on the passenger’s side. There was a leak on the high pressure hose and condenser coils, which was the source of my problem. There are no longer any problems when the batteries were replaced and recharged The fact that it was July in South Carolina and I did not turn on the air conditioning makes me believe there were no heat-related difficulties present. Thank you for the post and the link, Jimmy, and I would think that the heating core has been clogged. What I’ll have to do in the morning is head out to the field and see what I can locate.’ On the plus side, there isn’t any dampness on the carpet, so I don’t have to worry about a leak for now. This evening after work, I opened up the glove box and changed the cabin filter. As a result, I was unable to see the blender and am now concerned that it is located immediately behind the center console. I couldn’t find it beneath the dash on either the driver’s or passenger’s side
- Nonetheless, this is where I am at this point in time. Recap: Outside, it’s really cold, and I’ve got heat on the driver’s side of the car, but chilly air on the passenger. Dual zone controls are not available. On this particular day, I removed the glove compartment as well as the little storage box located in the upper portion of the glove compartment. As I worked my way around the dashboard, I was able to push each of the switches in turn (clockwise from 12: defrost, defrost and floor, floor, floor and dash vents, dash vents) and watch as the blender actuator changed settings. The cabin filter was removed, and I could see the door open, which was used to guide air up to the defroster. Putting my hands in front of the various vents allowed me to feel the difference in airflow as I varied the settings (meaning I could feel air coming out of the dash vents and then feel it stop when I changed settings). When I changed the fan speed, I could see the fan whirling and feel the difference in pressure as a result of the change. So I came to the conclusion that everything was functioning well. Afterwards, I turned my attention to the heater coil. Disconnecting the hoses at the firewall on the engine compartment side, and connecting one hose to each of the heater core tubes, I was able to flush the system in both directions. In order to view the water washing the core, I utilized a transparent 12mm hose that fit perfectly in the tubes. The water was first discolored, but I was able to shift directions once it became clear. When I changed directions, I was able to get some more silt out of the water, which was now flowing freely. Then I hooked up the hoses and poured in some coolant before taking her for a test drive. Results? On my side, the heat is working better, but the passenger side is still blowing chilly. If the blender door is not truly moving as it should, I’m beginning to question whether the pressure on it is changing as a result of the settings changes. Trying to troubleshoot it, though, is going to be a son of a gun. Considering that heat is emanating from either side of the vehicle’s engine, I seriously doubt the heater core is faulty. When I look at the schematics that I’ve obtained, it appears like there are two blender doors within the blender. Whether the blender actuator is changing positions, I’m wondering if the blender doors, or one of the blender doors, is not moving as it should, and I’m only getting minimal flow over the heater core from that side, despite the fact that I could see the blender actuator changing positions? When the actuator changes positions, it might be that it is loose on the shaft, or that the shaft is not spinning as it should. There are two screws keeping the actuator bracket in place that I can’t seem to get a screwdriver to work on, but I’m going to have to figure it out and get it off in order to test if I can manually move the blender door shaft with my fingers. But, I’ll give it a chance regardless of whether these videos work or not. Being a touch unsteady when attempting to hold the camera, monitor the actuator, and hit the control buttons while staring at a rather small region isn’t ideal
- Nonetheless, Another round of online browsing has led me to believe that I have not examined all of the options. It appears that I was testing the Mode Control Servomotor, and I should have looked a bit below and to the left to see if the Air Mix Control Servomotor was being tested as well.
- Date of joining: July 31, 2016 Member:193416 Messages:19,069 Gender:Male ElijahSLCV is his given name. Vehicle: 2000 extended cab, 2.7L, automatic, 4×4 cab. Yes, you’re on the right track there. That would be the servo to look into next
Dodge Journey Questions – Why is the heat only working in the drivers side and not the passenge.
Allow me to share my own experience with you. I had a situation that was comparable to yours. In my Dodge Journey, the driver’s side of the vehicle would blast hot air while the passenger side would vent tepid air. After then, it would have difficulty adjusting the airflow from your feet to your face, to the window, and so on. The computer in the DodgeJourney’s is really rather sophisticated, if not SMART, according to my findings after roughly a month of investigation into the problem. The Dodge Journey, you see, will begin to exhibit symptoms anytime there is a problem with any component, anywhere in the car.
- When this occurs, it indicates that there is a malfunction or problem somewhere in your vehicle.
- The phenomenon began to manifest itself in my scenario as the weather became chilly.
- That, by the way, made no sense.
- We couldn’t make any sense of what was going on.
- He observed that the blending acuator, located on the passenger side of the vehicle and responsible for regulating temperature (hot and cold), had failed.
- A warning message would appear on the computer screen, and the climatic temperature on the passenger side would be refused to be changed.
- As soon as we replaced the blending door actuator, all of the issues were resolved immediately.
So, if your Dodge Journey is experiencing issues that you are unable to diagnose, look into it more.
It is your responsibility to identify the problem.
In the car, the air bag light would illuminate on a consistent basis.
The car’s method of informing me that there is a problem is that anytime I attempted to fill it with gas, the pump would cut out.
This was deemed to be useful by 98 people.
No heat on passenger side?
I dismantled the valve and discovered that it is made up of only two plungers that
are attached to electromagnets. My situation is similar to yours. Because the tiny wire of the magnet had rusted and broken, the plungers were no longer able to prevent coolant from flowing freely into the heater core, resulting in constant heat. If you just have one side that is not blowing heat at all, it is possible that it has seized up or something similar. One approach to identify whether there is an issue with the valve is to: Following the replacement of my valve, I began to notice a clicking sound in the car while it was at idle.
As a result, if you flip the settings, making one side completely hot and another somewhat hot, you should hear the opposite plunger cycle.
If you can hear it on both sides, this indicates that the valve is not the issue. If you can’t hear it on either side, either you aren’t listening hard enough, or I made a mistake when I fitted my valve, and it is louder than typical as a result of that mistake.
No Heat on Drivers side Plenty of Heat on Passenger Side
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- – I’m sorry to hear about the difficulties you’ve been experiencing with your Suburban.
- It’s possible that the heater core, the temperature actuator, or the HVAC computer merely has to be adjusted to fix the problem.
- I strongly advise you to take the car in for an inspection by a qualified mechanic.
- In the event that you have any more queries, please do not hesitate to contact me.
no heat on passenger side
In order to get a warranty from the dealer, I have to travel to an associated shop. The dealer is a ‘business’ that offers warranties when purchasing used cars, but I don’t have one. It’s a hassle to have the component fixed since they want documentation, such as photographs of the damaged part, so more often than not, I schedule an appointment to diagnose the problem, then they claim the part, and then I schedule another appointment when they get the part to have it repaired. When I purchased my Journey, it cost me 2500k dollars.
- However, the store near me is unwilling to complete this task since it is too time demanding.
- That’s when I started working on the Journey’s mechanics; I’d brought the Journey in a couple of times for strange stalling difficulties that only occurred in reverse during the winter.
- So I went ahead and patched it myself by pouring in a ‘LucasTransmissionfix,’ which I believe did the trick.
- During the winter, I had no problems with my Journey, save for one instance when the lightning bolt indicator flashed when tractioncontrol was turned off.
- It’s most likely a Throttle body bug.
- Since my transmission was also having trouble shifting past third gear
when it was quite cold outdoors, I believe there is a problem with it.
- However, if the store does not have a code or is unable to reproduce the problem, they will not check into it.
- Consequently, I purchased tools and began completing tasks on my own when I realized that they would not address the problem or that I would be wasting my time.
I also started performing my own oil changes and purchased a set of ‘rims’ with winter tires so that I could complete the changeover myself because shops were overtightening bolts, which was causing me vibrations on the highway at the time.
No Heat on Passenger Side – Blend Door OK
It’s a ‘business’ selling warranty when purchasing a used car, but I have to go to an associated shop because I don’t have a warranty with the dealer. Getting the component repaired is a hassle since they want documentation such as photographs of the damaged part. As a result, I schedule an appointment to diagnose the problem, then they claim the part, and then I schedule another appointment when they get the part in order to have it fixed. Purchasing my Journey cost me a total of $2500,000. I don’t look back on it with displeasure.
- Another business that is willing to perform it must be called in for assistance.
- It was at this point that I began doing mechanical work on the vehicle.
- So I took matters into my own hands and poured in a ‘LucasTransmissionfix,’ which I believe was the solution.
- Except for one instance of the lightning bolt indicator flashing when tractioncontrol was turned off, I had no problems with my Journey this winter.
- A problem in the Throttle body is most likely to blame.
- Since my gearbox was having trouble shifting past third gear even when it was really cold outdoors, I believe there is a problem with it.
- However, if the store does not have a code or cannot reproduce the problem, they will not look into it.
- Consequently, I purchased tools and began performing tasks on my own when I realized that they would either fail to address the problem or would be a waste of time.
E60 weak heat. No heat on passenger side.
5:00 p.m. on September 9, 2015 Starter for a new MembersThread Date of joining: December 2013Location: Richmond, Virginia Number of posts: 25 No likes have been received, and no likes have been given on any of the posts. My Ride: 2004 e60 530iE60 with a modest heat source. There is no heat on the passenger side. This is my second e60, and the heat is unbearably oppressive. The driver’s side becomes a little heated, while the passenger side stays cool. I’m driving in the snowy conditions. Do you have any recommendations?
There is no check engine light on.
I don’t understand what you’re saying.
on September 9, 2015 New MembersJoined on January 1, 2013 Number of posts: 6 No likes have been received, and no likes have been given on any of the posts.
It’s conceivable that it’s become jammed.
See whether it’s listed on realoem in the AC/Heater area.
on September 9, 2015 The newest members joined in January 2015 and are based in Japan.
If it is clogged, the air will not be able to pass through the heater radiator, preventing heat from reaching your inside.
Membership is now open to new members.
In order to maintain safety, the water valve must be left in the open position in order for water to flow to the heater core.
Using an infrared temperature gun, you should verify the temperature of the hoses that are connected to and disconnected from the heater core.
Members with a lot of experience Joined in July 2008; now resides in Atlantic Beach, Florida 420 total posts Vehicles I Drive:e60 530ie21 320i The model year is 2005-1981.
The cpu makes use of this external sensor to set the load and maintain the right interior temperature.
477 total posts My Vehicle: 2004 545i with Bluetooth, AUX, and Coding Year of production: 2004 Engine:N62 Duracell8 had first posted this.
I’ve seen a few heater cores that were clogged.
Would you also chance to know what the appropriate difference between the input and output should be?
What is the location of the micro filter?
It’s possible that I’ll have to remove it and clean it.
My vehicle is a 2004 BMW 530i.
Is the outdoor temperature gauge showing the correct reading?
What’s going on with the cluster?
On November 18, 2015, at 5:13 p.m.
Date of joining: December 2013 Richmond, Virginia is the location.
Posts by son0 My vehicle is a 2004 BMW 530i.
It is also possible that your micro filter is malfunctioning.
Micro filters are effective.
8:00 p.m. on November 19, 2015 Members Date of joining: May 2009 Kelso, Washington is the location. Number of posts: 72 No likes have been received, and no likes have been given on any of the posts. My Car: 2004 BMW 530i I’m having the exact same problem with my car right now!