- The radiator cap may be faulty. If you do not have a coolant pressure tester and suspect the radiator cap, most major auto parts stores can test it for you. Cooling fans keep running after car is shutdown and drains battery. Most likely cause is the thermofan switch.
Why does my car fan keep running after I turn it off?
It is ok for the engine cooling fan to keep running for a few minutes after turning off the car. Your car fan will run for a few minutes after you turn off the car then turn it off. When the engine is turned off, the coolant doesn’t circulate, and the heat stays trapped, therefore prolonging the engine from cooling.
Can a bad fan relay drain your battery?
3. Cooling fans stay on at all times. If the relay shorts internally, it may cause power to be permanently switched on, which will cause the fans to run at all times. Depending on the wiring setup of the vehicle, this may cause them to stay on even when the vehicle is off, which will drain the battery.
Why does my car radiator fan keep running?
The reason behind this is quite simple. After turning the engine off, the ECU unit tells the fan to continue running as the coolant is still hot. Until the temperature comes down to normal, it keeps running which makes a bit of sound. DONT WORRY ITS NORMAL.
How do I know if my cooling fan relay is bad?
Bad Cooling Fan Relay Symptoms
- The engine runs hot or overheats.
- The cooling fans don’t work.
- The cooling fans keep running.
- Warning lights.
- Poor air conditioning performance.
- Swapping Relays.
- Measuring the Relay Coil’s Resistance.
- Listening for Noises.
Why does my car sound like it’s still running when it’s off?
Engine cooling fans and other systems are programmed to keep running in some cars even when the engine is off. Once outside the car, she could hear a fan running in the engine area and asked us if this is normal. It is. And many other sounds from under the hood of a car that has been shut off are also normal.
How do I know if my radiator fan motor is bad?
The first symptom or sign that something has gone wrong is that your cooling fan doesn’t come on at all. This is the most common symptom of a faulty cooling fan motor, but it may not be one you notice while driving your vehicle. If the motor burned out or starts to fail in any way, the cooling fans are disabled.
How do you test a radiator fan?
How to Check a Radiator Fan
- Determine whether your radiator fan is manual or electric.
- To check an electric radiator fan, start the car and let it get up to the temperature where the fan normally kicks on.
- Use the volt meter to test if there is power to the wires.
- Normal voltage for a radiator fan is around 12 volts.
Can a bad thermostat cause radiator fan not to work?
Broken Thermostat Thermostats are known to go bad and cause all sorts of cooling issues. If this thermostat doesn’t open when the engine reaches the working temperature, the coolant will stay inside the engine block and the engine will start to overheat. This will result in the radiator fan not working.
Is the radiator fan always supposed to be running?
Radiator fans are temperature controlled. They cut in and out to maintain the engine temperature at the optimum level where maximum efficiency is reached. Usually, the radiator fan will not start up the moment you fire up your engine.
What does a bad radiator fan sound like?
A loud whirring Noise In some cases, when the radiator cooling fan motor fails, you’ll notice a loud clicking or whirring noise that changes as you rev your engine. Bad radiator fan noise might be so loud, but fixing it on time will save you from the expensive repair costs.
Car Fan Still On When Engine is Turned Off
You pull into a parking space, turn off the engine, and begin walking away. Then you see that the engine cooling fan is still operating, despite the fact that the automobile has been shut down. It is OK for the engine cooling fan to continue to operate for a few minutes after the vehicle has been turned off. After you have turned off the automobile, the fan will continue to operate for a few minutes before being turned off. This is common in many automobiles, such as BMW and Mercedes-Benz, and is unavoidable.
Unless there is an electrical problem, it may remain on all of the time until the battery is completely depleted.
When the engine is shut off, the coolant does not flow, and the heat is retained, resulting in a delay in the engine’s ability to cool properly.
Common Causes
If your cooling fan continues to run after you have turned off the engine for more than 10 minutes, you may have an issue that has to be addressed. Here are several possible reasons why the fan continues to run for an extended period of time.
- Low coolant level
- Faulty coolant temperature sensor
- PCM or ECU malfunctioning
- Coolant leaks from the water pump
- Cracked radiator
- Worn upper or lower radiator hoses
- Leaky heater core
- Rusted thermostat housing
- Rusted coolant bypass pipe
- Bad radiator fan relay
- Short in the electrical wires, and so on and so forth
- And
What should I do if the engine fan never turns off?
If the fan continues to operate for longer than 30 minutes, unplug the negative side of the battery cable to avoid the battery from being completely discharged.
Troubleshooting Tips
Test the fan relay; replace the defective fan relay with a good fan relay that has the same pin configuration as the problematic fan relay. Another approach is to verify the functionality of the cooling fan relay using a digital multimeter, which is another option. If the fan stops working, it is likely that the relay has failed. Additionally, check for low coolant levels and any leaks that might be the source of the problem. Generally speaking, a low coolant level will result in a hotter engine.
Battery dying due to radiator fan running.
Just a little note on the subject of relay issues. Every time you start your automobile, relays are activated and deactivated. It is their responsibility to turn on and off the electricity to various devices. Every time they switch off, the metal connections on their circuit boards open. Their contacts’ surfaces get significantly damaged and/or scorched after performing this several thousand times on each of them. As a result, the connection becomes ever so little poorer with each passing minute.
- As a result of the inadequate connection, more heat is generated, and eventually the contacts fuse together and become trapped.
- By doing so, you are physically fracturing the weld, which will remain broken until it welds again the following time.
- When your automobile won’t start, this is an illustration of items that aren’t working properly.
- In the case of your battery draining overnight, this is an example of items failing to switch off.
In any instance, it is past time to replace the relay. Repairing the contacts isn’t worth it unless you’re in a dire situation. Because a relay has the ability to switch on (and off) a large number of components in an automobile, it can be the source of a variety of symptoms.
Radiator Fan will not shut off – drains battery
The following is an update on the cooling fan problem I was experiencing, as well as how it was resolved. Time: Once the new assembly is delivered, this should take no longer than 2.5 hours to complete. 1.5 out of 5 for technical difficulty Level of dissatisfaction: 2.5/5 I am not a professional mechanic, and your results may vary if you chose to apply this procedure. Disclaimer: Keep in mind that safety comes first. This procedure should not necessitate the lifting of the vehicle. During the removal and reinstallation process, avoid yanking on any hoses, wires, or radiator components as this might cause damage.
According to what I’ve read, the fan relay is to blame if the radiator cooling fan (B, the larger one on the driver’s side of this dual fan assembly) continues to run after the car has been turned off to the point where it completely drains the battery (i.e., after the car has been cooled down, the fan continues to run for an hour or more until no more battery power is available to drive it).
- Unfortunately, the prevailing majority also holds that the fan relay is permanently incorporated into the complete fan assembly and is not a serviced or changeable component of the fan assembly itself (I plan to look into the old fan relay when time permits though).
- In my particular scenario, Vida did not display any specific issues regardless of whether the fan was attached or unplugged from the computer (explained below).
- Remove the battery from the system.
- As previously said, nothing appeared weird on Vida, including the temps.
- The fan stayed on during the process.
- Removing or disconnecting power from the radiator cooling fan (A, tough to get at but doable by hand).
- Start the engine with the fan power supply unplugged and let it run for several minutes.
Reconnect the battery if necessary.
The fan was still running.
The fan was kept running at all times.
Using the Vida, I was unable to have any effect on the huge cooling fan in any manner.
I put the battery on a charger and placed an order for a fan assembly as well as a gallon of zerex G48 50/50 solution.
Because the fan tab end to end dimension is so enormous, I decided to make room for removal and installation by removing and loosening a number of hoses, stabilizers, zip ties, and the air intake hose, among other things.
I then clamped and unplugged the hoses (numbers 2 and 12) and moved them as far to the side as I possibly could with my hands.
Follow this solid tube all the way to the middle of the engine, where you’ll find a press-on fitting that connects it to the two air conditioning hoses (I assume) that are also in the area of the engine.
Also visible are three zip ties (numbered 11, 13, and 14) that need be detached or cut in order to move the harness out of the way sufficiently to allow for proper movement of the harness.
After that, it’s a simple matter of removing the old fan assembly from the cradles by unlocking the locking tabs on the top of the radiator (1 on the passenger side and another on the driving side) using a flat head screwdriver and removing the old fan assembly.
This locking mechanism is not present in the bottom two cradles in which the bottom tabs are resting.
Despite the fact that it was a tight removal, I was able to wriggle it out in approximately 10 minutes without causing any harm to the radiator or its hoses.
I didn’t push the replacement fan assembly into the car, but I did lightly touch the driver side of the fan assembly beyond what I presume to be the gearbox oil cooler with the palm of my hand to get it started (driver side of the radiator).
Before snapping the top tabs into the locking cradles, make sure that the bottom tabs are properly positioned in the corresponding cradles on the frame.
I sprayed a little amount of electrical contact cleaner into the connections for the temperature and fan assemblies, then applied a small amount of dielectric grease before connecting them.
Fill the remainder of the coolant reservoir with a suitable coolant of your choosing.
Because I had measured the quantity of coolant I had drained, I felt confident when I added the same amount.
If the fan relay was the source of the problem, the fan should not be running.
Keep an eye on the instrument panel to make sure there are no low coolant or other unusual signals shown.
I hope this information is useful to anyone who is experiencing a similar problem, and please let me know if anything has been misrepresented.
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Cooling fan stays on long after the car is off.
10:08 a.m., Tuesday, October 2, 2008 Date of joining: August 2008 Alexandria, Virginia is the location. Number of posts: 15 0 Likes have been received. 0 Likes0 Comments0 Posts My 2003 MCS has a fan that automatically turns on. Normally, the coolant fan will activate when a specified temperature is reached by the thermostat. This is typical. It isn’t a huge secret. However, it should not be left on for a lengthy period of time, since this can cause the battery to drain excessively. My fan starts up and operates for approximately three minutes before shutting down completely.
- Because the engine is running a bit hot at that moment, I believe that a low coolant level is the root of the problem.
- I’m familiar with automobiles, and if a coolant fan is running, your temperature gauge should indicate it.
- This is just my two cents.
- The Most Recent Post Hatch Talk with Wohnson89R50/R53: (2002-2006) Problems/Issues with AMCereallStock at 406-10-202005:53 On the 09th of May in the year 2019, at 7:05 p.m.
- Hatch Talk (2007 and after) by kvnadrianoR56 9:48 a.m.
Honda Accord Why Does Fan Keep Running After Car Turned Off
Occasionally, the cooling fan beneath your hood will run for an extended amount of time, resulting in the death of your vehicle’s battery. This post will address a couple of the reasons why your fan continues to run after you switch off your automobile, as well as how to fix the problem. The Honda Accord is the subject of this essay (1990-2002). It’s completely normal for your cooling system fan to continue to run after you’ve turned off your vehicle, but it shouldn’t run for more than 10 minutes at a time.
If this occurs in your Accord, it is possible that you have an issue that requires attention.
This article will examine the three possible reasons why your fan may continue to operate even after the vehicle has been turned off and turned off.
Step 1 – What’s the condition of the temperature sensor?
Your vehicle is equipped with two temperature sensors: the ECT sensor and the ambient air temperature sensor. After a short length of time, the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor—which is placed immediately below the distributor—will begin to fail, and your car’s fan will continue to run for an extended period of time after the engine has been turned off. The second temperature sensor is positioned beneath the radiator. It measures the temperature in degrees Celsius. The “ambient air temperature sensor” or “outdoor air temperature sensor” is what it’s referred to as.
If one of them is not functioning properly, your engine may continually report that the coolant is hot, resulting in the operation of the fan.
Either clean the sensors using a sensor cleaner or replace them with new ones to solve the problem.
The sensors are equipped with two-wire connectors, so it should not take long for you to replace them on your own. Assuming that both of your temperature sensors are in proper working order, go to the following step.
Step 2 – Does the fan switch work?
It is placed on the thermostat housing of your Accord, and it controls the cooling fan (see Figure 2 and 4). If the key is in the “ON” position but the engine is not running, it will only operate one of the fans, not both. Ensure that the cooling fan switch is operational and that there are no signs of wear or faultiness in the fan switch. If the cooling fan switch does not function properly, it is simple to repair or replace. A new one will set you back around $30. Figure 4 shows a schematic of the cooling system of the Honda Accord, as well as the position of the thermostat housing.
Step 3 – Is the fan timer module working?
The fan timer module is placed in the foot well on the driver’s side of your vehicle (just below the steering column). If you look directly above the fuse box, you will be able to see the module, which is approximately the size of a deck of card. It enables the fan to continue running after the vehicle has been switched off, providing additional cooling. This module placement is largely for Honda Accords from the early model years (1990-1993). Later versions have it positioned on the passenger’s side, next to the glove compartment.
The fan timer module will cost you around $30 and is a straightforward DIY project.
Pro Tip
It’s not uncommon to suspect that you have a faulty relay or fuse. If one of these scenarios is true, your fans will not operate, resulting in overheating of your vehicle’s interior.
Related Discussions
- Many people believe they have a faulty relay or fuse when they are seeing these symptoms. As a result, your fans will not turn on and your car will overheat if one of these situations occurs.
Laptop fan keeps running even after shutdown until the battery drains out
It’s usual to suspect that you have a faulty relay or fuse. If one of these scenarios is true, your fans will not operate, resulting in overheating of your vehicle.
Radiator fan is running after I turn off the car
As a result, I drove my car to the shop to have the overheating issue examined. According to the technicians, there is a very minor leak on top of the radiator, which I didn’t detect because the leak wasn’t leaking that much and the leak was drying up before it reached the ground. Furthermore, the coolant level was between the minimum and maximum levels. So here’s what I’ve discovered that might be the source of the problem: 1.Radiator- I still need to purchase a new radiator and install it in its position.
2.The coolant level is low.
3.The fan motor for the radiator.
4.Fuse for the radiator fan.
I double-checked it visually.
As I learned today, the relays allow the fan to turn on even when driving, which is another advantage of using them.
I checked the relays (4 prong and 5 prong) with a voltmeter and found them to be in working order.
I checked for continuity between terminals 1 and 2 while the power was turned off and the relay was removed from the vehicle.
When electricity is supplied to terminals 3 and 4, I’m stumped as to how to determine whether or not there is continuity between terminals 1 and 2.
I checked for continuity between terminals 1 and 4 when the power was turned off, and there was none, which was fine.
On pages 3-4 of the Haynes manual, it states that “If the radiator fan motor is in good working order, but the fan does not come on when the engine is hot, the fan relays may be malfunctioning.” The radiator fan DOES turn on, but not as frequently as I would like it to.
If the thermostat fails in the open position (which I have not ruled out), doesn’t this enable the coolant to flow through the radiator?
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensors are used in the engine.
It is located beneath the throttle body on the coolant passage casting, whereas sensor 2 is on the lower left side of the radiator, both on the lower left side of the radiator. It’s possible that the ECTs are to blame. What are your opinions on the matter?