So, if your starter keep running, the problem could be stuck starter relay contacts, a continuous ground on the starter relay control coil, or a binding ignition lock cylinder that keeps the actually ignition switch in the START position. To diagnose the problem, first try rotating the lock cylinder.
- Starter motor sometimes runs continuously even after releasing of the ignition key from starting position. Only way to stop it is either disconnect battery cables or tap on the place where solonoid switch fits starter motor.
Can a starter motor run continuously?
Your Starter Motor Runs Continuously. In some cases, the starter motor may even keep running after you’ve taken the key out of the ignition. This problem soon leads to serious damage to the starter, as well as to the transmission flywheel.
What are some signs of a bad starter?
What are common bad starter symptoms?
- Something sounds off.
- You’ve got lights but no action.
- Your engine won’t crank.
- Smoke is coming from your car.
- Oil has soaked the starter.
- Look under the hood.
- Tap the starter.
- Adjust the transmission.
How do you stop a stuck starter?
if the starter is stuck on the flywheel of the car then it is a bad starter. take a crowbar and lightly tap the starter. should free it. when you get it running take the home and replace the starter otherwise it will keep getting stuck.
How long can a starter motor run for?
Starter motors are designed to be operated for a maximum of about 30 seconds, with a 1 to 2 minute cool-down period between operation cycles. If you try to operate them continuously under load, you will wind up with melted down rotor and stator windings.
How long can you run a car starter?
Any vehicle started with the remote engine starter can idle for a total of 20 minutes. Automatic engine shutdown occurs after 10 minutes, but the vehicle may be remotely started as many times as you wish for an additional 10 minutes.
Is it the alternator or starter?
The alternator converts mechanical energy into electrical energy allowing the car to charge the battery while you are driving. The starter works in a different way converting electrical energy of the auto into mechanical energy. Both the alternator and starter can wear out over time needing repair or replacement.
Can a starter overheat?
If power is supplied continuously to the starter gear, it will eventually overheat. This is either because the starter has been operated too long without a rest or there is a connection problem. Smoke coming from underneath the engine, accompanied by a burning smell, can be a symptom of serious problems.
Can a bad starter drain your battery?
A faulty or bad starter system can drain your car’s battery leaving it useless when in need. A good starter system draws only the amount of power it requires for initiating. Logically, a bad starter can drain a car battery by drawing too much power even when it is not in action.
Will tapping on a starter make it work?
The starter cannot function properly if that happens. Give the starter a tap about 4 to 5 times with a tool such as a hammer or a wrench. Sometimes, this method works even if the starter is actually bad. In that case, tapping will provide a temporary fix but the car could be dying anytime soon.
Why does hitting a starter make it work?
It works because the brushes in the starter are worn to the point where they are having trouble contacting the commutator bars of the armature. Works best when power is being applied. All that said, fair warning: hitting it too hard can damage the perminant magnets in the motor.
Can a bad starter cause car to shut off?
The bad shorted starter motor will cause a car battery to discharge. While worn or undercharging alternator fails to keep up a battery charge. After all, there will be not enough voltage to run the engine and car will die or stall.
How do I know if my starter is draining my battery?
Test the starter utilizing an amp gauge. The starter will draw a charge from the battery. If it’s drawing too much, that’s a clear indicator that’s has failed. The vehicle may still start; however, it will continue to draw too much power and will drain the battery.
How long can a sourdough starter last?
A starter stored in the fridge can be fed once a week, if you plan to use it often, or you can store it for up to two months without feeding. When you want to use the starter again, remove it from the fridge for a few hours, then feed it every 12 hours for 36 hours before you make bread with it.
Starter runs continuously
Occasionally, Ford owners will experience a situation in which the starter runs constantly or continues to operate even after the engine has been started and even after the key has been taken from the ignition. At first glance, this may lead you to believe that the starting drive is stuck. Alternatively, you may believe you have a faulty starting relay. However, in the majority of situations, this is caused by binding in the ignition lock cylinder, which is especially true if you’ve lubricated the lock cylinder with anything other than graphite or dry Teflon lubricant.
To obtain the PDF, simply click on the image below.
After passing via a fuse, electricity is sent to the transmission range selection (automatic trans) or the park/neutral switch at the start position of the vehicle (manual trans).
In this case, it is the PCM that is utilized.
- Upon grounding the starter relay, the contacts are moved to enable current (electrical power) to pass through them to the starter, where the current energizes the pull-in/hold-in solenoid, which moves and connects the starter motor directly to the battery.
- To determine the source of the problem, begin by turning the lock cylinder.
- Spray dry Teflon lubricant on the lock cylinder or use a liquid graphite solution on it to keep it from sticking.
- WD-40, spray silicone, or any other sort of all-purpose lubricant will just serve to exacerbate the situation.
- This stops the mechanism from fully releasing back to the RUN position once it has been released from the START position.
- If the problem continues, it is not due to a faulty relay.
- It is only when the ignition switch is in the START position that the relay should get ground from the PCM.
The START wire should not be hot when you are in the RUN position, so check that. To obtain the wiring schematic for the starting circuit, simply click on the jpg image. Rick Muscoplat was born in the year 2012. Rick Muscoplat posted a blog entry on
Weird starter problem. After starting, key to ON.
My Weird Starter Concern is still a problem! For the sake of reference, here is the problem: The problem was initially assumed to be with the ignition switch by 87 900 8VI. Instead of adding a push button starter, I simply wired a switch between the large wire for the real starter relay and the large wire for the starter relay. Except for the big gauge wire for the starting relay, all of the other ignition wires are in their typical positions (wire ’50’). To put it another way, the only item that stops working when I turn off the switch is the engine’s starting mechanism.
- What makes this dilemma so bizarre is the fact that it involves a computer.
- However, the alternator/battery light illuminates, and the alternator is only sending out 12V instead of the regular 14.5V.
- Every time I pull this relay, the starter comes to a complete halt and does not restart.
- When the key is removed from the ignition and the engine is shut off, the starter is switched off.
- When I reinstall the relay while the car is still running, nothing happens at all.
- Start the engine of the automobile.
- I am unable to determine whether or not the bendix solenoid is also engaged to the flywheel, although I do not believe it is.
As a result, the alternator light and the starter whirling are somehow linked together.
When the light is turned off, the starter continues to spin after the engine has started.
The big wire that comes directly from the battery terminal is linked to the post that is nearest to the driver’s side of the vehicle.
Does it appear that there are just two huge red wires leading to the starter?
I am in desperate need of having this problem handled since I am unable to drive my car while the starting is spinning, despite the fact that it is a brand new starter.
If you want clarification on anything, please let us know. I’m at a loss on what to do. Thank you so much for your assistance. Jonathan
What causes starter to keep running?
Asked in the following category: General The most recent update was made on the 13th of February, 2020. The problem might be caused by a stuckstarterrelay contact, an unbroken ground on thestarterrelay control coil, or a binding ignition lock cylinder that prevents the starter from being turned off completely when it is turned on. If the startermotor comes to a complete stop, you’ve identified the problem. You want to be certain that the electricity does not remain on after you have turned off the ignition switch.
- Check the power on the posts behind the solenoid using a voltmeter to make sure it’s not the solenoid.
- In order to provide strong torque for a short amount of time, carstarter motors are intended to operate for 30 seconds or less.
- The flywheel is additionally engaged by a Bendix drive, which extends the pinion gear when the engine is first started and retracts it when the engine is stopped.
- In certain cases, a worn starter might cause the problem by using so many amps while turning the engine that there isn’t enough voltage left to operate the ignition system and fuel injectors properly.
- Either the fuel or the compression is the source of the problem.
- For a variety of causes, they might become entrenched.
Starter stays engaged.
I was wondering if anyone else has had a similar experience. When I turn the key in the ignition of my 1995 SL320, the starter remains engaged. Even if I remove the key from the ignition, the starter continues to operate the engine. The only way to stop it is to remove the battery from the system. Afterwards, when I reconnect the battery, the engine will not crank until I turn the key to start it, and the process will repeat itself once again. I initially believed it was the starting harness that had failed, so I replaced it with a new one.
- In addition, the main harness has been changed.
- I understand that this discussion is several years old, but I thought I’d provide some future suggestions.
- It was a purple (or purple and white) wire, a key, and a cloud of dust in the case of Mercedes, at least the older models.
- If your starting cranks when you turn the key, it is most likely not the result of a faulty starter lockout.
- It does not generally have the capacity to SEND voltage to the starter (with the exception of crossed wires or a shorted positive to a negative anywhere).
- When you RELEASE the key and let the engine to restart, the 12v should revert to zero (car has started already one hopes).
- THEY ARE OFTEN RIGHT, because the ignition switch is the principal 12v source for the purple wire in the car.
The purple wire, on the other hand, continues to serve as the circuit’s focal point.
Unless you stop them from flowing, they will continue to flow (open the curcuit).
(This is the kind of thing where an object in motion likes to stay in motion).
The starting lead and its purple trigger are protected from the elements by a heat shield.
On the automobile I was handed, two starters had been installed, the first of which worked for three months.
The complaint was that the automobile started with the key every time and that the starter remained engaged.
unless you decide to restart it.
The engine worked OK, but the automobile wouldn’t start because there was no spark.
So, it’s related to the RUNNING ENGINE, then.
The automobile was on the verge of starting.
That confirmed to me that, indeed, running is important and causes it, and that not running prevents it.
They just switch on and off when instructed to do so.
On a recent vehicle, there are only a few items to consider.
oh, yes, absolutely.
Its output is a continuous 12v, but its stater is grounded when the key is turned on, and then it gets powered when the alternator starts rotating.
There will be no continuation of the starter.
Each one is broken in the manner in which it is broken.
The car was no longer affected by the problem because the new alternator harness was installed.
Figure out why something isn’t working properly. Describe the symptoms in detail. Now, how exactly is it SUPPOSED to function? Okay, that’s clear. What may and couldn’t be the source of what you’re experiencing? You now know just where to look. hopefully
HELP – Starter Runs Continuously o.
|Ford Tractors Discussion Forum:Discussion ForumsFord TractorsHELP – Starter Runs Continuously on Restoration Start Up.Welcome Guest,Log inorRegister|
|LarryMaine09-29-2019 07:46:01Report to Moderator|
|OK, Finished Resto on my 57 Ford 850.12 V conversion was part of resto.Went to crank engine for first time as part of process to set timing.Here’s where it gets too weird.Connected battery, pressed starter button and engine turns over, release starter button and starter continues to turn until I remove battery cables.So, I removed the starter wire from the button, re-connected the battery cables, touched the starter wire to the starer button and pressed down the button, and starter starts.I then disconnected the starter switch wire and starter continues to run until I disconnect the battery cables again.So, it is not a faulty starter switch.I used YT archives diagrams for 12 V conversion.Replaced coil, battery, all bulbs, all wiring, and put in a 1 wire 12 V alt.I removed the voltage regulator.The starter solenoid was not replaced.Looking at the solenoid installed on the tractor the left terminal goes to the starter.The bottom terminal goes to the starter button, and the right terminal goes to the Battery + terminal withanother wire going to the amp-meter. This same amp-meter terminal post also goes to the hot side of the terminal block. The one wire Alt goes to the other post of the amp-meter.All the while during this test, the ignition key was off and removed from the ignition switch.I double checked to make sure no wires or crimps were touching the frame.So, where did I mess up?Is my solenoid or starter rely faulty even though it worked fine on the 6 V system prior to resto?Should the wire from the right side of the relay go somewhere other than the hot side of the terminal block?Not my first resto, not my first rewiring project, but cant figure this one!Any suggestions?Cant do anything else till I get this solved.Thanks all, Larry.|
|murray moore10-01-2019 14:52:54Report to Moderator||Re: HELP – Starter Runs Continuously on Restoration Start Up.in reply to LarryMaine, 09-29-2019 07:46:01|
|Had same issue.Replaced solenoid with correct solenoid, and problem went away.I believe my solenoid went suddenly kaboom inside after working well for many years.Totally freaked me out but calmed down after i purchased the correctgrounded relay.(Just kidding about totally freaking out, just adding that for dramatic effect).|
|LarryMaine09-29-2019 15:03:37Report to Moderator||Re: HELP – Starter Runs Continuously on Restoration Start Up.in reply to LarryMaine, 09-29-2019 07:46:01|
|Thanks guys.The reason I did not replace the solenoid / relay is that nowhere in the archives does it suggest this is necessary.Also, the Steiner Catalogue clearly states that their Ford replacement units work for both 612 volt systems.Also, other restoration parts companies indicate their units work for Ford models that were 6 volt and other later models that came with 12 volt systems right from the factory.So, I just assumed my relay did not need to be replaced.SO, I will replace with unit as you suggest and keep my fingers crossed.Thanks again, I really appreciate your help, Larry.|
|michford09-29-2019 09:41:09Report to Moderator||Re: HELP – Starter Runs Continuously on Restoration Start Up.in reply to LarryMaine, 09-29-2019 07:46:01|
|To go along with what Bern said, the solenoid that will work is ST-542.|
|Bern09-29-2019 08:58:03Report to Moderator||Re: HELP – Starter Runs Continuously on Restoration Start Up.in reply to LarryMaine, 09-29-2019 07:46:01|
|You need a 12 volt relay (the part you call the solenoid).Here’s a picture of 3 different relays: 6, 12,24 volt styles, note they all look the same on the outside.The only difference is the internal resistance of the coil to suit the operating voltage. Also note that these are NOT the relays for your tractor – it is for illustration only.|
Starter keeps turning with the key off!
Years ago, when riding my Jota on Mad Sunday, there was a screaming noise and the back tire abruptly locked up without warning. Fortunately, I was traveling gently at the moment and came to a safe halt. Fortunately, the rescue services were able to get me back to Douglas, where the diagnostic process could begin. After ruling out any other possible causes of the problem, the starting motor came under suspicion. After that, I went to the pits, which were behind the grandstands, and asked any of the mechanics who were willing to help me if they could create me a special tool to pull the motor out.
- On top of the lengthy stainless rod, they brazed the long section of a 6mm Allen key, which was then secured with a tiny bar.
- This provided me with the opportunity to remove the inaccessible bolt and remove the motor.
- What appeared to have occurred was that the starting had engaged while the engine was running, causing the starter to spin at a million revolutions per minute.
- As a result, I bought a new starting motor as well as a new relay and had them brought to the island via rapid delivery.
- They arrived on time, were quickly installed, and regular service was restored!
Starts but keeps on cranking.
For the 4th generation, I’m not sure, but on my 3rd generation, if the engine is running when you turn the key, it will not activate the starter to protect the engine from being damaged further. The same goes for getting it started. After turning the key and holding it, I can continue to hold it even after the engine has started, and the starter will be automatically disengaged, even though I had the key continually in the start position. I’m not sure whether it was mentioned or if this would be useful in determining which component is malfunctioning, but that’s all I have.
PS: My point of view on this particular situation has not shifted at all.
as well as the ability to disengage ‘on its own’ at any time.
(If the contact pads are black / burnt / pitted, the relay will be at best unreliable.) –