The cause is excess clearance between the rocker bridge and the rocker shaft. The fix is fairly easy. All you need is a good torque wrench and sockets. Start the engine and let it warm up until you hear the knocking or ticking.
- A knocking or ticking noise on some Honda 3.5L V6 engines occurs when the rocker shaft bridge has excessive clearance from the factory. We often encounter engines that have a cold-start knock or ticking noise. In this case, the 3.5L V6 engines installed in various Honda models can make a knocking or ticking noise at idle and only when warm.
Why is my Honda engine ticking?
This sound is typically caused by your rods knocking which can mean that they are worn out or there is something seriously wrong. If you hear this noise, turn your car off and do not drive it again until a mechanic can determine the problem and repairs have been made. Honda engines make lots of sounds.
Is it normal for engine to make ticking noise?
The tick in your engine could be normal based on the design of your engine or could just be from normal wear from your engine running. As high-pressure exhaust escapes from a crack in the manifold or a leak in the gasket it will sound like ticking or clicking especially at idle or low engine RPMs.
Do all Honda engines tick?
there should be no tick. in most cases its the valves that need adjusting, it normally doesnt hurt anything so people mistake it for ‘normal.’ If it goes on for too long you can end up with burnt valves, which means a loss in power and an even louder tick.
Why is my Honda making loud noise?
Suspension Joints: A creaking, clunking, or popping sound heard at lower speeds could indicate worn out or broken suspension joints. Ball Joints: If the ball joints are the problem, you will often hear a creaking sound that gets louder over time. Bushing: Bushing issues usually create a creaking noise.
How do I get rid of the ticking noise in my engine?
It might be the lifters These lifters can get worn out over time, which inevitably causes a metal-on-metal ticking noise at idle and upon acceleration. Regular oil changes should be able to mitigate the sound, however, in some cases, you made need to get the lifters replaced by a mechanic.
When I accelerate my car makes a ticking noise?
A ticking noise when accelerating can be caused by many things. It is important to find the root of the problem as there is a risk that the engine will be damaged, making the repair bill greater than it would have been originally. In most cases, the cause is oil pressure, exhaust leaks, spark plugs, or the valvetrain.
Why is my Honda CRV ticking?
The main cause could be a low oil situation. If the oil level is too low, it will not be able to properly lubricate the internal moving parts of the engine. If your honda crv’s engine is making a ticking noise it could be due to a failed purge valve solenoid. Get is diagnosed at a dealer.
What is humming noise from engine?
Grinding or Humming A low-pitched humming coming from under the car could mean a failing transmission, worn universal joints, a bad wheel bearing, or a worn differential.
Why is my Honda Accord making a humming noise?
The most common causes for humming noise in Honda Accord at high speeds are bad wheel bearing, uneven tire wear and using tires with large tread blocks. Less common cause is failing transmission.
Ticking noise Honda engines
Ticking and banging sounds on Honda engines have been addressed in a service advisory issued by the automaker. The warning applies to Accord sedans and coupes from 2008 to 2011, Odyssey minivans from 2008 to 2012, Pilot SUVs from 2009 to 2012, and Accord Crosstour crossovers from 2010 to 2011. (all with V6 engines). When the engines are running at idle, they may make a banging or ticking sound. If you start the engine while it is warm or hot, the noise is more noticeable. The reason for this is that there is too much room between the rocker bridge and the rocker shaft.
A decent torque wrench and sockets are all that are required.
Check the valve covers with an automotive stethoscope to ensure that the noise is truly coming from the valve covers themselves.
Remove the valve covers from the engine.
- Remove all of the bridge’s bolts one by one.
- by following the tightening procedure illustrated in the pictures.
- According to Honda, this is standard operating procedure.
- You haven’t finished yet.
- after the first time.
- Make any necessary adjustments to the valve clearances and reattach the valve covers.
- The background noise should be gone.
- Rick Muscoplat posted a blog entry on
More: Ticking noise Honda engines?
Honda: Easy Fix for Engine Noise
We frequently come across engines that make a knocking or ticking noise when they are first started. Specifically, the 3.5-liter V6 engines found in various Honda vehicles may create a knocking or ticking noise at idle and only while the engine is heated in this scenario. The problem is caused by an excessive amount of clearance on the rocker shaft bridge from the factory, which allows the rocker shaft to revolve and generate noise. The problem appears to be severe, but the solution is straightforward: just release and re-torque the rocker shaft bridge nuts.
Note: Before adjusting the valves, always double-check that the rocker shaft bridge bolts are torqued to the precise specifications and in the order specified in the repair process before proceeding.
Diagnostic Procedure:
1.Start the engine and allow it to warm up to normal operating temperature before continuing. 2.While the engine is running, keep an ear out for a knocking or ticking sound. To locate the source of the noise, use a stethoscope to listen closely.
If you hear any banging or ticking coming from either cylinder head, go to the Repair Procedure section of this manual. Keep through with the standard troubleshooting steps if you notice a noise originating from a different area. Figure 1: The Order of Events
Repair Procedure:
1.Remove both valve covers from the engine. Note: Before removing the valve covers, disconnect the power steering pump from the vehicle while the hoses are still attached. This provides access to the wire harness mounting bolts, which are otherwise inaccessible. To assemble the front cylinder head, loosen and then twist each rocker shaft bridge bolt in the order depicted in Fig. 1 one at a time until the assembly is complete. The bolts should be torqued to 21 lb.-ft. (28 Nm) in order to crush the bridge that surrounds the rocker shaft.
- This is quite normal.
- Please keep in mind that unless the bolt, the bridge, or the head are damaged, they should not be replaced.
- For both the VCM and the V-TEC engines, the torque settings and tightening sequences for the bridge bolts are the same.
- To re-torque each rocker shaft bridge bolt on the front cylinder head, loosen and re-torque them one at a time in the order illustrated in Fig.
- Tighten the bolts to 18 lb.-ft (24.5 Nm).
- 1.
- (28 Nm) in order to crush the bridge that surrounds the rocker shaft 5.On the rear cylinder head, loosen and then twist each rocker shaft bridge bolt one at a time in the manner illustrated in Fig.
Tighten the bolts to 18 lb.-ft.
6.Inspect the valve clearances and make any necessary adjustments.
), exhaust diameter: 0.28-0.32 mm (0.008-0.009 in (0.011-0.013 in.).
8.Reinstall all of the components that were previously deleted.
Check to see that the noise has been gone.
A group of automotive professionals from ALLDATA® Community Automotive Diagnostic Team has written this article to assist mechanics fix difficult-to-repair automobiles more quickly and effectively.
ALLDATA LLC is a registered trademark.
Ticking noise from engine
My ‘sewing machine’ noise occurs roughly 30 seconds to a minute after the machine is turned on, which indicates that it is not an internal problem (piston slap, etc). The clicking is coming from the top/rear region of the left (passenger) side of the vehicle (where the whole VTEC mechanism lives, right). Even though I understand the cause of the noise at idle (the cylinder cut-out), the noise does not stop when the vehicle accelerates, despite the fact that I would expect the noise to stop once all four cylinders are activated.
Honda indicated in their diagnostic (which I have in writing someplace) that they detached ‘a something’ and the noise went away, therefore they declared the vehicle to be in proper operating condition.
Even though there are certain occasions when all of the clicking does not occur, there is no association between temperature (happens in both winter and summer), length of operation / time between starts, throttle inputs (feather-footing does not assist), or any other factor that I can think of.
I’m just not able to sell this damned device because the loudness makes the consumer uncomfortable.
What do ya’ll make of it? thanks Oh, and my MA battery is on its way out as well – but that’s a topic for another post.
Tech Tip: Honda Ticking Noise from the Engine
During regular operation, the V6 engine of the 1994-97 Passports may make a ticking noise, which is typical. According to Honda, the most likely reason is that one or more hydraulic lash adjusters (HLAs) are not fully extended as a result of varnish development inside the adjuster. This situation occurs as a result of exceeding the recommended oil and filter replacement schedule. During regular operation, the V6 engine of the 1994-97 Passports may make a ticking noise, which is typical. According to Honda, the most likely reason is that one or more hydraulic lash adjusters (HLAs) are not fully extended as a result of varnish development inside the adjuster.
- For more information, consult the applicable Passport owner’s handbook.
- Repair Procedure 1.
- However, while 10W-30 API SJ is now the recommended engine oil for the Passport V6 engine, the 0W-30 oil allows air to drain out of the HLA(s) more rapidly, as well as remove the varnish that is limiting HLA piston motion.
- If the ticking noise disappears, the car should be returned to the client.
- 3.
- Determine which bank is making noise with a stethoscope or a long screwdriver, and then turn off the engine.
- On the loud bank, remove the cylinder head cover and inspect it.
When the rocker is on the base circle of the cam and the valve is closed, check each rocker arm for clearance at the valve with the valve closed.
Take a look at Figure 1.
In some cases, the cylinder head oil pressure relief valve may be jammed open if all rocker arms on a single cylinder head have clearance and/or if the rocker arm pivot shaft has worn down over time.
6) Disassemble the ticking rocker arm assembly(s) and carefully evaluate the wear pattern on the HLA surface that meets the valve stem.
(The intake rocker arms, which are positioned under the camshafts, must be removed in order to do the timing belt removal.) Take a look at Figure 2.
Remove the afflicted HLA(s) from the rocker arms with your fingertips or soft-jaw pliers.
If you damage the O-ring on the outside of the HLA, you will have to replace the entire rocker arm, which will cost you more money.
(Exhaust Rocker Arm (78C) (curves left): P/N 8-97032-013-1; Exhaust Rocker Arm (78D) (curves right): P/N 8-97032-014-1; Intermediate Exhaust Rocker: P/N 8-97089-270-2; and Exhaust Rocker Arm (78C) (curves right): P/N 8-97089-270-2.) 8.
The oil contained within the HLA will be expelled through the check ball hole.
9.
While holding the HLA piston in place, spray the piston end with carburetor cleaner to remove any varnish.
10.
Extend and retract the piston multiple times while depressing and releasing the check ball in order to push the solvent through the HLA.
10.
This causes the HLA to become clogged with oil.
Replace the HLA O-ring with a new one.
Use engine oil to lubricate the bore of the rocker arm that contains the HLA, and then press the HLA back into position.
Attempt to compress the HLA piston without depressing the check ball in order to check for leaks at the check ball and piston.
It is possible that the engine will run rough for a brief length of time after starting as a result of this.
Following the filling of the four HLAs, pick one cylinder and bleed out some oil (depress the check ball and compress the piston roughly 1/4 of the way down) to avoid this.
If you remove all of the oil, the valve spring and cam will collapse the HLA permanently, and you will have to replace it.
Hondabond HT (P/N 08718-0001) should be used on the corners of the cam tower, gasket, and cylinder head where they meet.
16.
15.
It is recommended to use an oil with an API Service SG rating of at least. SJ’s current API service rating is recommended above previous ratings. Honda Parts Express is the source of this information.
Is Your Honda’s Engine Making Noise? Find Out Why
The 19th of November, 2015 As you drive down the road, you’re likely to notice certain noises that your automobile makes—noises that you assume to be a normal part of the sounds you hear on a daily basis. However, there are instances when your Honda may emit a sound that you are unfamiliar with; a sound that causes you to be concerned. It is critical to distinguish between these confused noises. Here is a list of some of the most typical sounds that your automobile could produce, as well as some recommendations as to what might be producing the sounds.
High Pitched Squeals
A high-pitched shriek is one of the most typical noises you’ll hear coming from an automobile that needs to be serviced. This is most likely a screech that comes and goes and then quits as soon as the motor is switched off, if at all. Despite the fact that it is an unsightly and irritating sound, think of it as a warning, akin to a fire alarm. You should be aware of the screaming since it indicates that your belt is either too tight or has to be changed entirely. As a result, pay attention to the warning and fix the belt.
Grinding While Shifting
Manual transmissions are more often than not associated with a grinding sound that occurs when shifting. It is only when the clutch is engaged and you are shifting from one gear to another that you will hear this grinding sound occur. This noise could be caused by something as simple as your clutch requiring adjustment or as complex as your clutch becoming worn and in need of replacement. If you hear this same type of noise while driving with an automatic transmission, it is likely that your transmission has suffered damage and will require repair.
Clicking While Idle
As you sit at a traffic light, waiting for the light to turn green, you become aware of an unusual clicking sound. This sound can be created by a variety of different circumstances. It might be anything as easy as the weather being cold and your fuel injectors rattling, or it could be something more serious like your engine being low on oil. It is possible, however, that the valves will need to be repositioned. In the event that you have checked your oil and the level appears to be okay, and the noise continues even in warmer temperatures, it is recommended that you send your Honda in for service.
Deep Knocking
A strange clicking sound might be heard while you are waiting for the light to switch from red to green at a traffic signal. Several situations can result in this sound being produced. Everything from the weather to your fuel injectors rattling to your engine running low on oil might be to blame for your engine’s misbehavior. Valves, on the other hand, may require altering in some cases. If you’ve checked your oil and the level appears to be okay, but the noise continues even in warmer temperatures, it’s time to take your Honda in for a professional evaluation.
Honda engine tick and idle.
- On this particular issue, I’m looking for some help from a Honda technician. Consistent with the Honda J series engines, it appears to be the case. I was unable to identify a TSB that addressed this precise issue. Here is a recording of the sound. Accords, Pilots, Ridgelines, and Odysseys all appear to be affected. As a result, I have the tick on my RL, and several other members on ridgelineownersclub.com are experiencing the same problem, and we are all attempting to resolve it in our own way. I’ve rebuilt the tensioner on my TB HD and calibrated the valve lash to specification. The truck has 180k miles on it, whereas the TB has just about 50k miles on it. Several videos of this tick are available on YouTube, and it appears that when people take their vehicles to the dealership, they are informed that it is piston slap. or that it is typical. I’m just trying to throw some light on this situation for as many people as possible. I’ve previously ruled out the possibility that the noise is coming from anything on the Serp belt, as well as the possibility that it is coming from the spark plugs or the rocker shaft bridge. ETCG is the only YouTube subscription that I have, and I find myself watching everything and anything just to acquire more weird information from it. Thank you for taking the time to read – Stay Dirty
Knocking Out a Honda 3.5L V6 Knocking Noise
On some Honda 3.5L V6 engines, a knocking or ticking noise can be heard when the rocker shaft bridge is installed with excessive clearance from the factory. We frequently come across engines that make a knocking or ticking noise when they are first started. Specifically, the3.5L V6 engines fitted in several Hondamodels can create a knocking or ticking noise at idling, but only while the engine is warm. More information is available by clicking here. The problem is caused by an excessive amount of clearance on the rocker shaft bridge from the factory, which allows the rocker shaft to revolve and generate noise.
Please keep in mind that before adjusting the valves, you must always ensure that the rocker shaft bridge bolts are torqued to the exact specifications and in the order specified in the repair process.
Models: Accord (2008-2011), Crosstour (2010-2011). Odyssey EX-L/Touring (2008-2012) Pilot (2009-2012) A procedure for diagnosing is as follows:
- Start the engine and allow it to get up to normal operating temperature before continuing. While the engine is idle, keep an ear out for any knocking or ticking sounds. To locate the source of the noise, use a stethoscope to listen closely.
- If you hear any banging or ticking coming from either cylinder head, go to the Repair Procedure section of this manual. Keep through with the standard troubleshooting steps if you notice a noise originating from a different area.
Procedure for Repair:
- Remove both valve covers from the engine. Note: Before removing the valve covers, disconnect the power steering pump from the vehicle while the hoses are still attached. This provides access to the wire harness mounting bolts
- However, it is not required. Loosen and then twist each rocker shaft bridge bolt one at a time on the front cylinder head in the order illustrated in Fig. 1 on the rear cylinder head. To crush the bridge around the rocker shaft, tighten the bolts to 21 lb.-ft. (28 Nm) of torque each.
Nota bene: Because the bridge is intended to compress over the rocker shaft, it may appear that the bolts are stripped at first when the bolts are torqued down. This is quite normal. Continually twist the bolts until they achieve the desired torque value. Please keep in mind that unless the bolt, the bridge, or the head are damaged, they should not be replaced. Overtightening the bolts will cause them to shatter, so be careful. For both the VCM and the V-TEC engines, the torque settings and tightening sequences for the bridge bolts are the same.
- Loosen and then re-torque each rocker shaft bridge bolt on the front cylinder head one at a time in the order depicted in Fig. 1 until the engine is running smoothly. Tighten the bolts to 18 lb.-ft. (24.5 Nm). On the rear cylinder head, loosen and then torque each rocker shaft bridge bolt one at a time in the manner illustrated in Fig. 1. Remove the rocker shaft bridge bolts from the rear cylinder head. To crush the bridge around the rocker shaft, tighten the bolts to 21 lb.-ft. (28 Nm) of torque each. On the rear cylinder head, loosen and then twist each rocker shaft bridge bolt one at a time in the order illustrated in Fig. 1 until the rocker shaft bridge bolts are completely tight. Tighten the bolts to a torque of 18 lb.-ft. (24.5 Nm)
- Check the valve clearances and make any necessary adjustments. Specifications for clearance: (Cold) Ventilation: 0.20-0.24 mm (0.008-0.009 in. ), intake: 0.28-0.32 mm (0.011-0.013 in.) Reinstall the valve covers, and check for leaks. Reinstall all of the components that were previously removed. Start the engine and allow it to reach its usual operating temperature before continuing. Check to see that the noise has been gone.
By completing this straightforward operation, you have not only eliminated a potentially dangerous noise, but you have also provided your customer with vital piece of mind, knowing that their Honda is now safe and trustworthy for many miles to come. A group of automotive professionals from ALLDATA® Community Automotive Diagnostic Team has written this article to assist mechanics fix difficult-to-repair automobiles more quickly and effectively. By visiting, you may get to know the members of the team.
Why is My Engine Ticking? Engine Clicking Noise
Despite the fact that engines can generate a wide range of amusing noises, it is unlikely that we will be shocked if they do. Given the number of moving elements in your engine, including engine parts, rotating shafts, pistons, and valves, not to mention explosions, it’s surprising that your engine isn’t making a louder noise. When rotating, engines may create a variety of noises ranging from humming to shrieking, as well as clunking and clicking noises. In this post, we’ll go through the reasons why your car’s engine creates a ticking or clicking sound, what the problem can be, and how to fix the problem.
Why is My Car Making a Clicking or Ticking Noise?
A ticking sound in your engine is most likely caused by one of the reciprocating components rather than a spinning component, which should be the first thing you look for. Things like bad bearings or worn-out accessories will typically make whirring or whining noises as they rotate, whereas reciprocating components such as your pistons, rods, valves, and pushrods will typically make ticks, clunks, or ratcheting type noises as they rotate, according to the manufacturer.
Possible Engine Ticking Causes:
- Valves that are out of tune
- Normal wear and operation noise
- Rod knock or a loud lifter are examples of this. Low amount of oil
Normal Wear and Operating Noise
According on the engine’s design, the ticking in your engine might be typical. Alternatively, the ticking could be caused by regular wear and tear from your engine operating. First, let’s go through several ticks that your motor could be experiencing that aren’t a concern. Your injectors may be firing if you have a fuel-injected vehicle, which would explain some of the ticking you may be hearing. When your fuel injectors open and close very fast, they allow a certain amount of fuel to be injected into the air that your engine is pulling in.
It should have the sound of a sharp pencil tapping on a desk, and it should be quite rhythmic in nature.
Another tick might be caused by a leak in the exhaust manifold.
Though not harmful to your engine, this tick should be repaired as soon as possible to keep exhaust gases where they belong: in the exhaust.
Valves Out of Adjustment
The most common reason of engine ticking is a loud valve train, which may be found in many engines. Once every two times your engine rotates, your valves must open and close in order to function properly. While the lobes of the camshaft itself compress the valve in overhead cam engines, push rods that open the valves in single cam engines are activated by the cam by moving a lever known as the rocker arm in single cam engines. As a result of the rapid movement of your valves and the limited distances they cover, the distance between the cam or pushrod and the valve must be extremely exact.
In most cases, you will be able to hear them ‘tick’ as they shift around while your engine is running if there is excessive play in these components.
If you have a pushrod style engine with solid lifters, you may want to check to see that the lifters are clean since there may be oil deposits built up on them, which can create noise as well as other problems.
Lifter Tick or Rod Knock?
The ticking of your engine is synchronized with the engine RPM, but the ticking sounds slower, such as once every engine revolution, this might suggest that you have rod knock. Rod knock is caused by a faulty bearing in the connecting rod of your vehicle. As the bearing wears down, it will enable movement, which will produce a sound that is either tapping or clunking depending on how bad the wear is. If you have rod knock, the sound will alter in response to engine RPM but will not change in response to engine load or temperature.
Low Oil Level
Ticking noises in the engine might be caused by low oil levels because the valvetrain components are not receiving adequate lubrication and begin to become loud. The oil level should be checked promptly if you detect a tick coming from your engine. If you notice that your engine oil level is low, try adding an oil additive, such as BlueDevil Oil Stop Leak, at the same time that you top off your engine oil. Large and tiny oil leaks are both prevented by using BlueDevil Oil Stop Leak, which is specially designed to rebuild the seals and gaskets in your engine.
You may get BlueDevil Oil Stop leak from any of our participating local auto parts retailers, such as the ones listed below:
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