ABS light on, speedometer doesn’t work? (TOP 5 Tips)

Make sure that your ignition key is turned on. Check if you get “No light” on both terminals. There may be no power to your fuses, including things like seat heating, anti-lock brake, and reverse lights. Your speedometer and odometer should be fixed, this way and your ABS light should turn off.

  • might experience an ABS light on and no speedometer operation. The most likely cause is a bad, intermittent, or weak signal from the rear speed sensor.

Can a bad ABS sensor cause speedometer not working?

The abs wheel speed sensors are not going to directly affect the speedometer so unfortunately you wasted your $ on those. The VSS, vehicle speed sensor, is usually responsible for giving signal for the speedometer.

Does ABS sensor affect speedometer?

No effect unless you are braking and the speedometer indicates a corresponding reduction in speed. Motorcycles with an ABS system use the ABS wheel speed sensor on the front wheel to calculate and display the road speed of the vehicle.

What would cause the speedometer to stop working?

The most common causes of a speedometer that stopped working include are a faulty speed sensor, a broken gear on the speedometer, damaged wiring, or a faulty engine control unit.

Will bad speed sensor cause ABS light?

ABS Light is illuminated on the dashboard Since the wheel speed sensor also monitors the anti-lock braking system on your car, it’s common for the ABS Light to illuminate when the sensor is worn out, disconnected, or has been struck by debris, which means you’ll have to replace the wheel speed sensor.

What are the symptoms of a bad ABS sensor?

The most common symptom of a bad ABS sensor is an ABS warning light showing up on your dashboard. You may also notice issues like a pulsating brake pedal while braking or a complete loss of the anti-lock brake system.

What are the symptoms of a bad speed sensor?

5 Common Bad Speed Sensor Symptoms

  • Transmission problems.
  • Erratic speedometer readings.
  • Inability to engage cruise control.
  • Lack of torque converter clutch application.
  • Check Engine Light is triggered.
  • An internal electrical fault in the speed sensor.
  • Damage on the sensor itself.
  • Poor vehicle maintenance.

Can a bad wheel bearing cause the ABS light to come on?

On many modern cars, a bad wheel bearing will trigger a warning light. The ABS or traction control warnings will often illuminate, since a bad bearing will trip the system to deactivate.

How much does it cost to get a speedometer fixed?

If you’re doing this with a mechanic, they will usually charge you around $100 to $250. Issues with your sensors or your actual speedometer do not cost much but, if the issue lies deeper and requires additional diagnostics, you can expect to pay between $200 and $400.

What causes ABS sensors to go bad?

What are the common causes of failure? Typically these sensors will fail as a result of clogging from metallic debris, brake dust or dirt due to exposure to the harsh elements.

ABS light on, speedometer doesn’t work

If you own one of the vehicles mentioned below and your ABS light is illuminated or your speedometer is not working, you should read this page carefully. Owners of these automobiles include: The years 1998 to 1999 Dodge Durango is a mid-size pickup truck. 3.9L2000 – 2000 liters Dodge Durango is a mid-size pickup truck. From 1998 to 2000, the 4.7L scale was used. Dodge Durango is a mid-size pickup truck. From 1998 to 2000, the 5.2L was in use. Dodge Durango is a mid-size pickup truck. It is possible that the 5.9L will have the ABS light illuminated and the speedometer will not function.

In order to assess whether or not the rear wheels are spinning at a different pace than the front wheels, the sensor measures the movement of teeth in a notched wheel and transmits that information to the ABS controller.

If you want to check the rear speed sensor, you must first separate the electrical connector from the sensor, which is situated on the back differential.

It should have a resistance reading between 1600 and 2800 ohms.

  1. Moving on, if it does provide the right reading, go to the following test.
  2. Locate the red/violet and white violet wires on the board.
  3. To assess resistance, connect your ohmmeter to these two terminals and repeat the process.
  4. The connector should be disassembled, the crimp connection undone, and the terminals’ connections to the wire soldered together.
  5. Rick Muscoplat was born in the year 2012.

See also

Speedometer doesn’t work, abs, brake light on.

Speedometer not working means the sensors in the rear wheels need to be replaced. The other three lights in my car continue to illuminate for no apparent reason. I’m not sure what it is but when the lights are off the brake acts strangely, but when the lights are on everything works perfectly it’s bizarre. Sent through the BimmerApp smartphone application Your tire speed sensors would be the first thing I would look at. If your brakes are acting strangely, it’s possible that your ABS is activating because it doesn’t detect one of the wheels spinning and hence activates the ABS to try to match the wheel speed.

  • I experienced the same issue and assumed it was caused by my ABS unit (which I sent off to get checked and found out it was fine.) However, it was simply the right front speed sensor that was malfunctioning.
  • I did some research and purchased a pair of these, swapped out the wire (which was very simple, but be careful not to damage the original wiring clips) when I changed the speed sensor, and haven’t had any problems since.
  • It works great.
  • Basically, it tells me all I need to know about my car, and it also allows me to read live data (such as O2 sensor, throttle position, etc.) and reset pretty much any fault codes that may have been set, including ABS, airbags, and the body control module.
  • In addition, I paid an additional $40 and received the identical program for my wife’s Mercedes.
  • Furthermore, the device is so compact that I can easily slip it into my pocket or leave it in my car.
  • The program is compatible with all models manufactured up to and including the current year, and you will receive a software upgrade within one year of purchase.

For me, it’s a fairly good fit. They have the same thing for Iphones, although the pricing may be different depending on where you live. Take a look and see what you think.

Speedometer not working, ABS light. HELP!

Here’s a situation that’s quite similar, except it’s intermittent. Is it anything that can be readily fixed? Hello, everyone. The installation of a new radiator in my 2000 9-3 by a local technician resulted in the emergence of a slew of additional problems. The car is frequently in fine working order first thing in the morning. Then, after a few miles, everything happened at once. After that, I observed that there was something really wrong with the turbo, which I discovered after the ABS light came on, the main console light came on, the warning system chimed, the speedometer went out, the odometer and trip counter frozen at whatever number they were on.

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It just reaches the barrier and comes to a complete halt, as if it had hit a stone wall.

Is it possible that the intermittent nature of the speedometer / ABS problem indicates that the ABS module itself is not the source of the problem?

Please accept my apologies; I am not particularly knowledgeable about automobile systems.

ABS Light On, Speedometer Not Working

I later discovered that I didn’t have the plug completely in place; there is just enough space between the sensor and casting enable the plug to pass through. Because both of the plastic clips on the plug had come off, it was difficult to verify if the plug was completely inserted. My remedy turned out to be a defective sensor, and repairing it also resolved the pulsing brake pedal, which seemed like the rotors were distorted, that I was experiencing. A 1999 Mazda B3000 with the basic ABS brakes and only the speed sensor mounted on the rear axle pod is what I’m driving.

  1. It’s the same problem (ABS light on and no speedometer).
  2. The fuse that has anything to do with 4 Wheel Anti-Lock brakes has continuity, but I don’t know which one since there isn’t anything in the owners handbook in the fuse part that says VSS.
  3. Possibly, it’s beneath one of the other fuses, or it’s labeled as something else different?
  4. I haven’t investigated the wire yet because it is quite nicely wrapped and does not appear to be dirty or strained, but I expect to do so soon.

At the time of purchase, the gas gauge stopped working and there was some little oxidization on the plug that went into the cab, which I cleaned and the gauge began working again, so it may require cleaning again, but I’m not sure if the VVS runs through the same socket. Page 136 of 136 Thanks, Jeff

ABS, Brake lights all on and Speedometer not working!

  1. Date of joining: August 11, 2013100 The vehicle is a 2008 Prius. Model:N/ Thank you for any assistance or advise you may provide! I have a 2008 Toyota Prius with 41K miles on the odometer. It is necessary to go back to the commencement of the issues. My ABS lights (the VSC, ABS, and (!) lights) started flashing a while ago. This occurred after a few instances of gentle braking, during which the ABS appeared to activate and the car would jolt forward as I came to a stop. This ceased happening as soon as the lights were turned on. Although my mechanic (who is not a Toyota mechanic) advised me to continue driving the car, I did so anyway. When I took the car to my mechanic last week to have the problem fixed, the car returned to me with the lights turned off and the mechanic saying he had not replaced anything but had simply looked and couldn’t see anything up, though he suspected the ABS sensor may have needed to be replaced, I was disappointed. After then, I was traveling on the highway when the three lights flashed once again in my direction. Then I saw that the spedometer was at zero while I was still driving at roughly 50mph and that the brake light had turned on as well a few minutes later. I thought that was strange at first, but it turned out to be normal. The brakes were in good working order, and I was able to drive home safely while using a speedometer on my phone. All of the lights are still on, and the speedometer is still not functioning, but I’ve recently discovered that if I keep my foot on the brake and remove the handbrake when the car is in Drive, the car will go forward even if my foot is still on the brake. Anyway, I drove the automobile back to the mechanic, who examined it and determined that there was nothing clearly wrong with it
  2. But, I will bring it back to him the following day so that he may thoroughly examine it. I was only hoping that someone may be able to provide some recommendations as to what it could be. Is it possible that an ABS sensor is to blame for all of these issues? Any suggestion would be greatly welcomed. Thank you very much. Please accept my thanks in advance. At this stage, you will require the services of a Prius-certified technician. The Toyota dealership, perhaps
  3. I had something very similar happen to me just last night, so it’s possible. However, my driver’s side anti-lock braking sensor has been malfunctioning for several months. I was travelling down the highway when I came across construction traffic, which caused me to stop and go. Several thoughts occurred to me as I was putting the pieces together. In addition to the speedometer showing zero, the odometer had stopped operating, the cruise control could not be enabled, the MPG display was not registering distance, and the parking brake light had illuminated. I didn’t have time to read any codes, check any fuses or relays, or even reset the ecu because I was running late. I’m presuming it’s a basic sensor, because the car continued to drive normally for another 60 miles after the incident. We can only hope that the problem isn’t anything internal to the transmission and that it’s something I can quickly replace
  4. Greetings, I’m having the same problem with my 2004 Prius and was not thinking of the abs sensor, though it may be. I ran a scanner through the system and only found one error code, P1116, which indicates a malfunctioning coolant storage tank outlet sensor. I replaced the coolant storage tank outlet sensor. There are no additional codes. I’m also unable to locate any fuse that has been tagged for these inactive indicators. Is there anyone who has an opinion on this? Date of joining: March 12, 20125354010 Location:Buffalo Vehicle: 2016 Toyota Prius Model:Three It isn’t true that you have one of those insurance snapshot devices hooked into your vehicle’s OBD port. They have the potential to produce CAN bus problems, which can illuminate your dashboard. If you’re using your phone to track your speed, I’m assuming you have an ELM327 or similar device hooked into the OBD port of your vehicle. The ABS/VSC/! lights are frequently illuminated as a result of this. (Britprius)
  5. John (Britprius)
  6. Date of joining:Dec 10, 20111,6863310 Date of joining:Dec 10, 20111,6863310 Location:Hawaii The vehicle is a 2009 Prius and the model is II. What software did you use to scan the documents? A generic brand X scanner will not be able to read all of the essential ECUs on the Prius
  7. Often, only the engine codes will be read. You’ll need the tiny VCI, also known as Torque. If the lights are illuminated, there are diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) that must be read by a Prius-specific scanner. Fortunately, the P1116 is a common error code, and it refers to the coolant pump and control valve on the storage tank. Generally, it may be ignored, and it is occasionally remedied by replacing the old coolant (if it is actually old)
  8. Nevertheless, it is not recommended. It was one of those that a local auto parts company lends out on a temporary basis. What is the location of this tiny vci scanner
  9. Date of joining:Dec 10, 20111,6863310 Date of joining:Dec 10, 20111,6863310 Location:Hawaii The vehicle is a 2009 Prius and the model is II. For starters, try eBay or Amazon. Yes, without a doubt. So, what kind of scanners are generally used by auto parts businesses and how do they work? These are not sufficient in terms of information for the prius
  10. Location:Hawaii Date of joining:Dec 10, 20111,6863310 The vehicle is a 2009 Prius and the model is II. Not at all. Those generic kinds, of which there are a large number, will only connect to and collect standard PIDs from the engine ECU and maybe the ABS. They are not programmed to communicate with the hybrid-specific ECUs, which is necessary in order to diagnose any of the electrical systems on the vehicle in question. Furthermore, according to Toyota specifications, the tiny VCI is the only way to effectively bleed the braking system. The VCI, as stated by ‘nh70,’ is an absolute must-have piece of equipment if you own a Prius and intend to perform your own maintenance beyond replacing the engine and gearbox fluids. The VCI is available at a genuinely unbelievable price. (Britprius)
  11. Ok. Thank you for your technical skills as well as for your advice. I’d best go out and acquire one of those small vci’s. Because of this, my brake warning lights will remain on as well as my inability to see the speedometer, odometer, or mpg/h until I can correctly adjust and reset everything with the mini. Being aware of how my automobile is now performing allows me to deal with the problems
  12. Date of joining:August 16, 20131800 Location: Fort Myers, Florida Vehicle:2005 Prius Model:III is experiencing a same problem. Just a couple of weeks ago, I had the dealer repair the actuator and ABS system. We took it directly to the technician because the primary battery codes suggested that it was on its way out. I had the primary battery changed, as well as a water pump replacement. The car will turn on, but it will not begin to run. All kind of lights and alarms illuminate, yet the speedometer remains off. Do you have any suggestions? Date of joining: April 22, 20095,4033,6310 Location:So. Texas Vehicle:Another Hybrid vehicle Even if one understands exactly how to latch the orange high-voltage battery safety lock, it is possible to make a mistake and not completely close it. If this is the case, the automobile will not start. The car will start on 12v, but that is all it will do.
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Abs light, brake light, speedo not working.

Thank you for your help; I believe I have worked it out. After further consideration, I concluded that it was not the ABS module because the speedometer was stuck at zero and would not move. I came to the conclusion that this indicated a sensor issue because you’re supposed to be able to remove the ABS module and still drive the truck even though you won’t have ABS, but everything else should continue to function properly because the speed sensors will be providing the data to the electronic control module (ECMI).

I also grounded the contact points for all of the grounds and made sure they were clean and securely fastened.

I discovered today that there were a total of three sensors on the transfer case, all of which had the same component number, which completely altered my perception of the situation, since I had previously assumed there was only one sensor.

According to what I’ve heard, the ones that are capable of accomplishing this are quite pricey.

After reaching the top sensor, the light turned off and the pedometer began to function properly again.

According to my theory, the sensor was failing and only operating occasionally; when I replaced the first sensor, it was just coincidental that it had been out for 100 miles before turning back on again.

Thank you for sharing your thoughts.

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