So the most likely suspects are: intermittent compressor clutch coil, bad compressor clutch relay, corrosion in the PDC, open in the wire to the compressor clutch, intermittent ground on the sensor side.
- If your car AC blows cold then warm, the cause can be a low system charge, moisture in the system, a malfunctioning expansion valve, clogged evaporator fins or an overcharge condition. Here’s how to nail down the cause. Low car AC charge causes evaporator freeze up and low airflow
Why does my car AC starts cold then gets warm?
Car AC blows cold then warm. If your car AC blows cold then warm, the cause can be a low system charge, moisture in the system, a malfunctioning expansion valve, clogged evaporator fins or an overcharge condition.
Why does my car AC sometimes blows hot air?
A car A/C blowing hot air is often the result of a refrigerant leak. Refrigerant is a liquid that circulates through your car’s A/C system, expanding and contracting as it removes heat and humidity from the cabin. None of the other A/C components will function correctly without proper refrigerant levels.
Why did my AC randomly stop blowing cold?
There are a couple of reasons for ice buildup in your AC — dirty coils or filters resulting in poor airflow, or a lack of refrigerant. If that doesn’t get the unit blowing cold air again, it could be refrigerant levels are low (see below).
Why does my truck AC get warm when I stop?
Your AC system is low on refrigerant. Since the AC compressor is driven by the engine, it doesn’t pump as much refrigerant when you’re at a stop or driving slowly. If the system is low on refrigerant, it will show up as AC blows warm at idle and blows colder when the engine is running at higher RPMs.
How do I know if my car AC fuse is blown?
Test the load: If you saw a voltage reading during the previous step, run the same test on the “load” side of the fuses. You should again see a reading between 220 and 240. If you see a voltage reading on the “line” side but not the “load” side, it means you have a blown fuse.
Why is my car AC cool but not cold?
The most common causes of broken air conditioning are leaks or compressor issues. If your air is blowing cool but not cold, the problem could be a clogged filter, cooling fan problem, radiator trouble, or it could simply be that you need to recharge your AC.
How do I know if my car AC compressor is bad?
What Are the Signs and Symptoms of a Bad A/C Compressor?
- A Lack of Hot Air Being Released Outside.
- Loud or Strange Noises From the Unit.
- Failure of the Compressor to Turn On.
- Circuit Breaker Tripping.
- Leaks Around the Air Conditioning Unit.
- Warm Air Instead of Cool Air Being Delivered to the House.
- Reduced Airflow.
How do I reset my AC compressor?
How to Reset an Air Conditioner
- Power down your AC. Start at your circuit breaker panel and flip the breaker that powers your AC.
- Find the button. Most air conditioning units are equipped with a reset button.
- Hold down the reset button for 3 to 5 seconds and then release.
- Restore power to your AC.
How do I fix my AC that isn’t blowing cold air?
What to Do When Your Air Conditioner Isn’t Blowing Cold Air
- Check the Thermostat Fan Setting. Is your air conditioner blowing cold sometimes but warm at other times?
- Replace Your Filter.
- Inspect the Outside Unit.
- Check Your Thermostat.
- Check Your Air Filter.
- Make Sure There is Electricity Going to Your AC.
Should I turn off AC if it’s not cooling?
If your ac is still not cooling there is one more thing you need to do. This is very important. TURN IT OFF and call your HVAC service provider to assist you. We always tell our customers to turn off an ac that is not cooling properly.
AC blows cold then warm Dodge Ram
Dodge Ram 1500 with intermittent air conditioning The compressor shuts down, blows cold, then warm, warm air conditioning. The air conditioning system is divided into three sections: the sensors (high and low pressure sensors, as well as the AC on/off switch), the command unit (the powertrain control module-PCM), and the ‘doing’ components (the compressor and the fan) (the compressor clutch relay, compressor clutch, and the compressor). Check the compressor clutch coil to verify if it is in excellent working order.
The low pressure sensor, on the other hand, gives the information necessary to determine when to cycle the compressor on and off.
Finally, there’s the compressor clutch and the compressor itself (if applicable).
When the clutch stops cycling, the first thing I’d want to know is if it’s getting power from the compressor clutch relay.
- You may check for battery voltage on the dark blue/black wire by disconnecting the electrical connector from the clutch, starting the engine, turning the A/C to the maximum setting, and then removing the electrical connector.
- An insulated black/white wire connects the compressor clutch ground to a splice on the transmission’s top, which is located between the clutch connector and the transmission.
- A faulty clutch is most likely to blame if you’re getting power and ground at the clutch connector but the clutch isn’t engaging when you try to engage it.
- Whether you’re not getting power at the clutch connections, I’d check to see if the compressor relay is receiving a ground connection from the PCM.
- Fuse J (10A) at the power distribution center provides electricity to the compressor clutch relay contacts, which in turn supply power to the compressor clutch (PDC).
- To begin, remove the compressor clutch relay, start the engine, and set the A/C to the maximum setting.
- To determine whether or not you are receiving voltage, check for PCM ground on terminal 85 of the same socket.
Consider replacing the relay with another one with the same component number if you’re seeing voltage and ground on the other end.
If you are still not getting power at the clutch, it is possible that you have a corrosion issue inside the PDC or that there is an open in the dark blue/black wire that connects to the clutch assembly.
Here’s how the sensors are supposed to function.
In addition, when you turn on the A/C and hold it there for a long period of time, the switch completes the path to ground on the black and orange wire that terminates in the middle of the dashboard.
Following that, it examines the high and low pressure switches.
Whenever the refrigerant pressure is higher than the low limit, electricity is routed via that switch and out to the high pressure switch (which is situated on the rear of the A/C compressor) via a dark blue cable.
If the refrigerant pressure is greater than the high pressure limit, power flows out of the high pressure switch on a light green/white wire.
When the PCM is turned on, it’s seeking for continuity via the sensor switches and finally to ground.
That is its cue to deliver ground to the compressor clutch relay on the A/C compressor.
When the connections in both the low and high pressure switches are closed, the PCM delivers ground to the A/C compressor clutch relay, which is controlled by the PCM.
For example: intermittent compressor clutch coil, poor compressor clutch relay, corrosion in the PDC, an open in the wire to the compressor clutch, intermittent ground on the sensor side are all possible culprits for intermittent compressor clutch coil.
Rick Muscoplat, Rick Muscoplat, Rick Muscoplat Rick Muscoplat posted a blog entry on
Dodge RAM 1500 Questions – A/C will blow cold, then suddenly blow hot.where do I look to fix th.
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A/C is ice cold then turns warm?
20th of May, 2005, 12:31 p.m. Registered UserThread StarterJoin Date: Mar 2003Location: Central VermontRegistration Status: Active Posts: 1,787Likes: 0Received 0 Likeson0 Posts: 1,787Likes: 0Received 0 Likeson0 Posts: 1,787Likes: 0 Is your air conditioning ice cold at first, then warm? My air conditioner blasts ice cold for about an hour (sometimes shorter, sometimes longer), then turns warm and stays that way for the most part of the day. Do you have any suggestions? I don’t know much (if anything) about central air conditioning systems.
- on May 20, 2005 Registered UserJoined: July 2004Location: Virginia Beach, VARegistration Number: 388 total posts No likes have been received, and no likes have been given on any of the posts.
- If air cannot travel through the coils, you will be unable to remove the heat from the air as a result.
- 20th of May, 2005, 5:12 p.m.
- It’s very likely what Ram2940 mentioned.
- 20th of May, 2005, 5:46 p.m.
- I don’t believe that ice can develop (?
- The blower motor is set to level 3 out of 4, and the temperature control is set to the coldest setting.
The change in temperature is not indicated by any change in speed.
Registered UserJoined: March 2004Location: NebraskaRegistration Date: March 2004 3,980 total posts 1 Likeon was received.
njoverkill first posted this message.
I don’t believe that ice can develop (?
The blower motor is set to level 3 out of 4, and the temperature control is set to the coldest setting.
The change in temperature is not indicated by any change in speed.
It is true that if you are low on freon, the coils can become iced up very quickly.
Running it for an hour at maximum cooling is what makes it ice cold.
If it continues to operate, freon is required.
Thread Starter is a registered user.
I wouldn’t be shocked if my freon supply is running low.
On May 20, 2005, at 7:58 p.m.
Actually, I’ve only just upgraded my system by adding freon.
As the ambient temperature rises, so will the pressures.
When the temperature is 70 degrees, the pressure should be approximately 35 psi.
You do your testing at the low pressure fitting (close to fire wall on passengers side by air filter box).
Thread Starter is a registered user.
0 people have expressed an interest.
21st of May, 2005, 8:34 a.m.
njoverkill first posted this message.
If you haven’t done it before, I wouldn’t recommend it to anyone.
Do you have a friend who has previous experience with A/C?
22nd of May, 2005, 12:09 a.m.
A defective pressure switch or something similar to this will cause your compressor to act in the manner that you describe it doing.
Registered UserJoined on May 2002 in Melbourne, FloridaLocation: Melbourne, Florida Likes: 0Posts: 1423Likes: 0 On the negative side, find someone who has a freon detector and ask them to stick it in the pee hole to check whether it goes off.
Dave On May 23, 2005, at 7:54 p.m., User who has joined the site since June 2004.
Dodge altered the materials used in the evaporator in the late 1990s, and they haven’t been worth a darn since.
After three years of ownership, the vehicle is still nice and cool.
On May 24, 2005, at 8:50 a.m., Registered UserJoined on May 2002 in Melbourne, FloridaLocation: Melbourne, Florida Likes: 0Posts: 1423Likes: 0 For some reason, I believe it was in 1998 with the 24V engine.
Knowing I should have retained the vehicle was a relief.
In terms of additional running expenses, this amounts to over $2,000.00 since the year 2000.
Dave The date is June 7, 2005, at 11:22 PM (Eastern time).
Date of joining: March 2003Location: Central Vermont There are 1,787 posts.
Do you know how long it should take to build the pressure?
I was at approximately 30 PSI, and I want to raise it to about 50 PSI, which I believe is a good level.
Is this a usual occurrence?
User who has joined the site since July 2004.
Normally, as the temperature outdoors rises, pressures will rise as well. If the temperature outdoors is at 75 degrees, a pressure of 35 to 40 psi should be enough. The most important thing is that the A/C becomes cold, because you can’t get by on pressure alone.
Why Does My Car Air Conditioner Blow Cold Then Warm?
On a hot summer day, there’s nothing quite like turning up the air conditioning in your automobile to keep cool. There are few things that feel better than a refreshing burst of air! But what if your car’s air conditioner alternates between blowing cold and warm air? If you get the impression that your air conditioner is playing tricks on you and isn’t blowing cold air for an extended period of time, it may be time to bring your A/C troubles to your nearest Firestone Complete Auto Care. There are a variety of factors that might be causing your car’s air conditioning to blast cold air first and then warm air second, including:
A Leak in the A/C System
The most typical reason for a car’s air conditioning to progressively lose its cool is a little refrigerant leak. Moisture and refrigerant combine to form a corrosive acid that eats away at the seals, valves, and rubber hoses in the air conditioning system. This is the most common source of leaks in air conditioning systems. Because there isn’t enough refrigerant in the system to cool things down, a leak in your A/C system might be causing the unit to blow warm air instead of chilly air. Worse still, the acid can corrode the interior of your compressor, causing metal shards to spread throughout your A/C system and resulting in extensive damage, obstruction, and component failure.
A Faulty Compressor Clutch
The air conditioning compressor clutch is one of the most critical components of your vehicle’s air conditioning system. It enables the pulley to engage and disengage from engine power as needed, ensuring that the compressor only operates when necessary. Because it is constantly cycling on and off, it is subjected to wear and tear with each usage of your air conditioning system. When there is a problem with the compressor clutch, your air conditioner will not be able to keep up with the demand for cool air.
A Failing Expansion Valve
If your air conditioner alternates between being hot and being chilly, it is possible that your expansion valve is failing. During the evaporation process, the expansion valve relieves pressure from liquid refrigerant, which allows it to expand from a liquid to a vapor state. It is possible that the refrigerant flow will be restricted or too unconstrained if the valve is obstructed. A little obstruction in refrigerant flow might cause a mechanical part or piece of equipment to become very cold.
- The accumulation of frost or ice inside the system might make the operation even more difficult.
- Your air conditioner is blowing warm air.
- Contrary to popular belief, allowing too much refrigerant to flow into the evaporator does not result in colder air being produced.
- During the course of the system’s attempts to regulate the expansion valve or to cycle the compressor, the flow rate of the refrigerant might return to normal, at which point you may observe that the air temperature begins to fall once more.
Note any pools of water under your vehicle – this might indicate a freezing issue and can assist your technician in diagnosing the problem.
A Blown Fuse or Electrical Issue
The air conditioning system in your automobile is comprised of a maze of wires, switches, relays, and fuses. The electricity delivered to the A/C unit by these sections and parts under normal working conditions allows you to have cool air delivered on demand. If even one of these components fails, your air conditioner may shut down and begin spewing heated air. While this helps to avoid potentially deadly electrical fires, it also means that a simple, single blown fuse might force your entire air conditioning system to go off.
Help Us Diagnose Your Car’s A/C Problem
Help our professionals discover the cause that’s causing your A/C to blow cold then warm by taking note of the following:
- Is it all of the vents that are getting hot, or just one? How long had you been driving before the air conditioning began to blast warm air? Is this something that has happened previously, and if yes, how many times has it happened? What kind of driving circumstances are you in
- Is it normal for the air conditioning to start spewing warm air when driving down the highway? When you’re stuck in stop-and-go traffic
When your car’s air conditioning blows cold first, then warm, take it to your local Firestone Complete Auto Care. AnA/C performance checkis the quickest and most straightforward method of determining what is wrong with your car’s air conditioner. Make an appointment online or visit your local store to get started right now!
Air Conditioning Not Cold?
Go to your local Firestone Complete Auto Care if your car’s air conditioning blows cold first, then hot. When it comes to diagnosing the problem with your automobile air conditioner, an A/C performance check is the most straightforward method. Make an appointment online or visit your local location to get started right now.
- The first possibility is that there is a leak of refrigerant inside the system. Your car’s evaporator, condenser, or rubber hose may have a leak
- Thus, you should take it to a technician to get it repaired as soon as possible. Another possibility for why your air conditioner isn’t producing chilly air is that the compressor has stopped functioning properly. The compressor is responsible for pressurizing and pumping the refrigerant throughout the air conditioning system’s required components. In part because everything revolves around the compressor, if it is not functioning properly, the air conditioning will not function properly. It is common for a loud noise to be heard when you attempt to switch on your air conditioner when the compressor is malfunctioning. One last problem that may be affecting the operation of your air conditioning system is the presence of an obstruction in the orifice tube. This is positioned between the condenser, which is located in the front of the radiator, and the evaporator, which is located in the passenger compartment of the vehicle. It is possible that a blockage in the tube would prevent refrigerant from reaching the evaporator, resulting in your system blowing heated air
- However, this is unlikely.
Give Your Air Conditioning System a Boost by Calling Our Service Team at (888) 787-0629! We will be more than delighted to assist you with whatever the issue is for your air conditioner not working. Bring your vehicle to our service facility now, and our highly trained specialists will assist you in diagnosing and repairing any issues you may be experiencing.
A/C blows hot air
On June 25, 2009, around 11:20 p.m., Date of joining: December 2008 Number of posts: 33 No likes have been received, and no likes have been given on any of the posts. The air conditioner blasts hot air A week ago, I left the vehicle running while I walked inside the store for 10 minutes. The air conditioner used to blow ice cold air. After leaving the store and getting into my ice-cold pickup, I was a little dizzy. It was quite hot. I attempted to re-charge with freon, but the gauge indicated that it was already full.
- Please, any assistance is greatly appreciated.
- 1995 Dodge Ram 2500 Thanks On June 25, 2009, around 11:30 p.m.
- Number of posts: 183 What is the status of your compressor?
- 26th of June, 2009, 8:57 a.m Date of joining: May 2009 The location is Columbus, Ohio.
- Mine, on the other hand, may be a gradual leak.
- Is the compressor activated when you check the pressure with the air conditioner running?
- As a result, be certain you can hear it click.
Location: Lee County, North Carolina, United States of America Joined: Apr 2008 Number of posts: 7,052Number of likes: 0 Immediately after turning on the air conditioning, the compressor should kick in.
Turn on the air conditioning and check the clutch on the front of the compressor; it should be moving in sync with the pulley while the compressor runs.
June 27th, 2009 at 1:19 a.m.
There was nothing from the compressor.
June 27th, 2009 01:28 a.m.
7,052 total posts 0 people have expressed an interest.
Assuming that’s the case, I’d switch the horn (or fog light) and the ac clutch relays (whether the horn/fog lights work) to determine if it’s the relays that are causing the problem.
I’d guess that either the clutch is shot (in which case you can probably purchase a clutch rebuild kit to avoid having to buy a whole new compressor) or that you aren’t receiving power to it for some reason (maybe one of the wires has been worn through) and that you need replace the clutch.
In addition, you shouldn’t have more than 45 psi in the system, although I don’t believe this would cause the compressor to shut down completely.
I joined in June 2009 and have 1,011 posts.
Most air conditioning compressors have a safety feature built in, and they will shut down or refuse to operate if the pressure goes below 20psi.
If nothing of these options work, you’ll need to replace the clutch or compressor.
Date of joining: June 2009 Houston, Texas is the location.
Most of the time, it will be the compressor, but that is just my opinion since every time the air conditioning fails, it is always the compressor, but that is just my opinion so just a little clue.
I hope you were able to resolve your issue.
Date of joining: May 2014 1 posts have been made.
Dodge Ram 1500, model year 2000 I’m experiencing the same issue.
I’ve replaced the compressor and recharged the system, but I’m still not getting any cold air.
Thank you for your assistance.
Joined in March of 2011; now resides in Fredericksburg, Virginia I have 8,915 posts with 0 likes and 1 likeon.
I’m experiencing the same issue.
I’ve replaced the compressor and recharged the system, but I’m still not getting any cold air.
Thank you for your assistance.
Despite the fact that I only get heat regardless of the setting, I believe my blender door is toasted. So I just turn off the heater core during the warmer months and enjoy lovely COLD air conditioning! 2000,2001,ac,air,blowing,blows,caravan,dakota,dodge,durango,hot,idle,idling,truck,van
A/C blows cold, then musty and warm.
|Ky_ManDodge DakotaJOIN HERE3/30/2010 19:54:55||Subject: A/C blows cold, then musty and warm.IP:LoggedMessage:So, recently my A/C on my truck has been running cold andgreat for the first few minutes (driving or just sitting), then theair gets musty and then blows warm/ just air from outside.Ichecked under the hood and the low side pressure with a gauge.The compressor was not spinning anymore, and the low sidepressure was VERY high, it completely maxed out the pressuretester.The compressor and clutch work perfectly for those firstfew minutes, but once the warm air starts coming out the vents,the compressor just stops turning.I’m thinking that there may be a block in one of the linesbecause I’ve read that there is a high/low pressure sensor thatmay be turning the A/C off to prevent damage to the system.Anyone have experience with this?Other than that I have no clue.It will work just fine a for a fewminutes, then just stop for a few hours. I’m just making aneducated guess as far as the pressure goes, considering there isa high amount of pressure on the low-side once it shuts off.Thanks1997 Dodge Dakota CC SLT5.2L V8 2WD|
|psssstDodge DakotaJOIN HERE3/30/2010 19:58:34||RE: A/C blows cold, then musty and warm.IP:LoggedMessage:Does the electric fan stay running while the AC ison?|
|Ky_ManDodge DakotaJOIN HERE3/30/2010 20:39:05||RE: A/C blows cold, then musty and warm.IP:LoggedMessage:Oh yeah, I forgot that info.Yes, the fan will continue running.|
|psssstDodge DakotaJOIN HERE3/30/2010 23:30:54||RE: A/C blows cold, then musty and warm.IP:LoggedMessage:me againOK could be a clogged orifice valvealso have you checked the condenser?clogged with dirt, bugs out front?|
|Ky_ManDodge DakotaJOIN HERE3/31/2010 01:10:21||RE: A/C blows cold, then musty and warm.IP:LoggedMessage:Yes, the condenser is pretty clean, no dirt clogging it or splatteredcritters on it as of right now.Also, could it be the drier/accumulator? I hear the intake to thosecan get clogged as well.|
|daddioDodge DakotaJOIN HERE3/31/2010 09:02:36||RE: A/C blows cold, then musty and warm.IP:LoggedMessage:Your system is low on refridgerant. The reason your low/suction pressure goes up when the compressor is off is that the system pressure equalizes when the compressor is not running. The reason the compressor is cutting out is because the suction/low pressure goes to low.You probably have a leak somewhere. Add some refridgerant.|
|Bob LincolnDodge DakotaJOIN HERE3/31/2010 10:29:56||RE: A/C blows cold, then musty and warm.IP:LoggedMessage:Probably so.But check high side pressure with compressor running before adding refrigerant.If there is a clog, adding more refrigerant may cause the high pressure relief valve to pop.|
|daddioDodge DakotaJOIN HERE3/31/2010 11:45:19||RE: A/C blows cold, then musty and warm.IP:LoggedMessage:Bob, you are correct about checking both high/ dsicharge side and low/suction side at the same time. But, If the sytem is equalizing as soon as the compressor shuts off, I would not suspect a restriction.Ky_man, get a decent set of guages and check both sides.|
|Ky_ManDodge DakotaJOIN HERE4/03/2010 00:16:53||RE: A/C blows cold, then musty and warm.IP:LoggedMessage:Thanks guys, I’ll let you know the the outcome as soon.I thoughtit may be low on refrigerant, but I really wanted to make sure aboutit all before just adding it to a system that may be full already. So,I’ll check both sides before I recharge or anything.Thanks|
|Ky_ManDodge DakotaJOIN HERE4/03/2010 18:29:43||RE: A/C blows cold, then musty and warm.IP:LoggedMessage:Well, I checked the pressure again.This time I checked it whilethe A/C was actually running normally and it was at the correctpressure it was supposed to be at for the temperature.So,eventually, it did shut itself off like it always does and thepressure went up on the low side again.All of the pressure wasfine across the board on both sides while it was running. Doesthat mean there is a gap in refrigerant or something, where itwill immediately drop in pressure on the vacuum side and thenjust shut off and cause what’s on the low side to build uppressure (like when you turn it off)?Maybe i’ll take it in for anevap and recharge soon, and see what that does.Any other ideas?|
|daddioDodge DakotaJOIN HERE4/03/2010 18:44:20||RE: A/C blows cold, then musty and warm.IP:LoggedMessage:That sounds normal just low on refridgerant. What did the low pressure read right before the compressor shut off? As I posted earlier the system will equalize pressure when the compressor is shut down. It sounds like what is happening with yours is the suction pressure is dropping to low and shutting the compressor off then as pressure equalizes, it rises enough for the compressor to engage again causing the cycling.|
|Ky_ManDodge DakotaJOIN HERE4/03/2010 20:25:44||RE: A/C blows cold, then musty and warm.IP:LoggedMessage:Okay. I’m going to take it to a shop and get it recharged onmonday.I’ll let ya’ll know what happens then.Thanks!|
|ericDodge DakotaJOIN HERE6/25/2010 15:26:00||RE: A/C blows cold, then musty and warm.IP:LoggedMessage:what was you final out come. i am having the same issue with my 98 dakota.runs nice and cold when the compressor is on, but after running for a bit the high side pressure goes off the chart, and the compressor stops.|
|macGenI7/24/2010 21:20:55||RE: A/C blows cold, then musty and warm.IP:LoggedMessage:I would guess it stops because of hi pressure limit switch.Will stop if low side pressure drops below about 30 as well.if pressures are wildly off with respect to each other, I think I’d suspect an orifice tube. Fairly easy to fix, and cheap as well ($35 or so, depending on year, etc) if you can discharge, evac, and recharge yourself.|
|NakeDodge DakotaJOIN HERE9/09/2010 12:06:09||RE: A/C blows cold, then musty and warm.IP:LoggedMessage:My 2000 Dakota had the same symptoms would work fine for any random amount of time and then get warm and humid and not work for a while but completely random.And this was after a dealer did an A/C service on it. They said I was low on freon but when the dye was injected and they tested for leaks, no leaks were found.I’ve since brought it back to the dealer and had a vacuum put on the system for about 90 min to remove any moisture that could be freezing a particular sensor and shutting the the cold air down. When they put the vacuum on it they said one side was extremely high pressure and the other side normal and then they heard a pop and both sides equaled but they are not sure what popped. Anyone have any ideas? Oh and now the compressor is not cycling anymore either.|
|97 DD V8Dodge DakotaJOIN HERE8/10/2015 07:20:54||RE: A/C blows cold, then musty and warm.IP:LoggedMessage:Anybody know what was wrong with his AC system? KY Man? I have the same exact problem with my 97.Thanks!|
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Dodge RAM Air Conditioning Problems [Everything You Need to Know]
When you experience Dodge Ramair conditioning difficulties, you may save money by repairing them yourself. Seriously, you can fix a lot of these issues by simply replacing a $5 fuse or two. In addition, you do not need to be a skilled mechanic in order to complete this task. Everybody is capable of pulling it off in their spare time. Simply apply some motivation and our do-it-yourself advice, and you’ll be able to remedy the majority of air conditioning problems. Also, check out our information on coolant filtering system kits.
If you are considering upgrading your Dodge Ram cold air intake system, we highly recommend that you read our in-depth assessment of the product.
How Does a Truck’s Air conditioning System Work?
The air conditioning system in your automobile is designed to limit the amount of heat generated within the vehicle. However, in order for it to function, it requires a compressor. Simply explained, the compressor is responsible for the operation of the air conditioning system. It might be referred to as the ‘workhorse’ of the air conditioning system. This compressor accepts low-pressure gas, which is subsequently converted into high-pressure gas via the process of compression. The gas then passes through the condenser in your automobile.
- Following that, the liquid is sent into the receiver dryer.
- In the following step, the liquid is sent through an expansion valve, where it is turned into a low-pressure liquid.
- After some time has passed, it is transformed into a low-pressure gas.
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Common Dodge Ram Air Conditioning Issues
Knowing how to repair any type of air conditioning issue is a valuable skill to have. As a result, have a look at the following typical problems that might occur with your truck’s air conditioning system:
1. Blown Fuse
The air conditioning is not working properly, and you’re simply trying to get in your vehicle and head to work when your air conditioner is not working properly. However, as terrible and aggravating as this situation appears to be, it is possible that it may be resolved by just replacing out the AC fuse. As an example, if you’re not entirely clear what that implies, consider that the air conditioning relies on the fuse to function properly.
Additionally, if the fuse stops operating, you will hear a buzzing sound as soon as you switch on the air conditioner, and the temperature will not decrease. In order to avoid confusion, here’s how to detect whether the fuse is no longer functioning properly:
- Take a look behind the hood of your Dodge Ram. After that, you’ll need to open up the fuse box. It is possible to see the diagram if you look more closely. Using that chart, locate and remove the F 62 AC clutch. After you’ve taken the fuse out, take a closer look at the metal chip that’s within. If there isn’t a break in the connection, you have a properly functioning fuse. However, if the fuse is blown on the inside, please replace it.
How frequent this problem is on the Dodge Ram and many other vehicles is beyond comprehension. However, always remember to check the AC fuse before throwing anything at your car’s electrical system.
2. Cold Air Is Not Blowing At All
Dodge Ram air conditioner problems may be quite troublesome in some cases. There’s just so much that may have gone wrong that it’s difficult to identify what happened on the spot. Some individuals just accept the situation, but others cannot help but become frustrated. So, what exactly is wrong with my car? It’s possible that the evaporator in the air conditioner has died. You see, the radiator in your truck performs a straightforward but critical function: it cools the air conditioning system by supplying it with cold air.
This is a rather typical occurrence, and it is possible that your situation is one of them.
When it becomes contaminated, the seals within it will ultimately fail, resulting in a leakage.
- Depending on how much the evaporator is leaking, you may notice a pleasant yet slightly off-putting scent emanating from your air conditioning system. The temperature will fluctuate when the evaporator of the air conditioner is leaking. However, this might also indicate that it has been rendered inoperable and must be replaced.
It is possible to notice a pleasant, yet slightly off-putting, stench emanating from your air conditioning system if the evaporator is leaking. It is normal for the temperature to vary while the air conditioner’s evaporator is leaking. However, it is possible that it has been rendered inoperable and must be replaced as a result of this.
3. Evaporator Got Clogged
Yet another typical Dodge Ram 1500 air conditioning problem is that the AC works initially, but after a while the temperature begins to rise, and then the temperature begins to fall, and so on. In many instances, a decline in temperature is associated with a constraint inside the system. However, unless you possess superhuman abilities, you will be unable to look through your automobile and determine what is wrong with it. To look through the air conditioning system, you’ll need to utilize a ray tech heat gun, which is available online.
It’s really inexpensive, and you can get one for as little as $20.
- Remove the grill and experiment with different temperature readings to determine the source of the problem. Take the temperature of the intake first, and then the temperature of the output second. Keep in mind that the entrance temperature must be higher than the output temperature while performing this operation. If the temperature difference between the inlet and outlet is greater than the temperature difference between the outlet and inlet, the condenser is removing heat. However, because the condenser does not always function properly, many areas should be checked. One side may be 120 degrees on one side, and the other side could be 82 degrees on the other side if you do this. This indicates that the hot fluid is moving through the system, but that there is an obstruction somewhere in the system, resulting in no hot fluid passing through
In order to determine the source of the problem, the grill should be removed and various temperature measurements taken. Take the temperature of the entrance first, and then the temperature of the outflow last. Always remember that the entrance temperature must be higher than the output temperature while performing this operation; this is essential. If the temperature difference between the inlet and outlet is greater than the temperature difference between the outlet and inlet, the condenser is removing heat; However, because the condenser is not always operational, many areas should be checked.
Essentially, this indicates that the hot fluid is flowing through the system, but there is an obstruction somewhere in the system, resulting in no hot fluid flowing through the system
4. Noisy Blower Motor
I have no fear of men, but a whirring blower motor may be downright scary. Hearing any noise emanating from the automobile, no matter how innocuous, can be quite disturbing. Nothing more you can do but wonder what went wrong with the automobile. This occurs every time you switch on the air conditioning system, for whatever reason. The blower motor is responsible for the noise. Usually, a few leaves or pieces of dirt become lodged inside the blower motor. As a result, when you switch on the motor, the engine strikes the leaves, creating a loud noise.
Don’t be concerned, though.
This is something that everyone can do.
- You should be able to see the blower motor on the passenger’s side, around where your feet would be resting when driving. Please use a T20 Torx driver and an 8mm socket to remove the fan from the machine. Remove the wire that was keeping it together once you’ve pulled it out. Take precautions. If you don’t want to deal with electricity, don’t do it. Once that’s done, take the replacement one and slide it into place before tightening the screws
- Last but not least, connect the cable.
In most circumstances, it is preferable to replace the blower motor with a new one. For example, a brand new one might be purchased for $40. Even if you can fix the old one, it’s not worth the work and effort when you can obtain a new one at a lower price. That being said, if you want to learn how to clean and replace the motor, here’s a well-produced video that will help you out:
Finally, problems with the Dodge Ram’s air conditioning vents may include, but are not limited to, vibration and a lack of air circulation. Vibration and loudness are two of the most often encountered issues with the Dodge Ram. And, in the majority of cases, switching out the blower motor resolves the problem. However, if you have already replaced the motor and discovered that there is nothing wrong with it, it is possible that the blend air door damper has been broken. Fortunately, you may purchase a replacement for a reasonable price of $30 on the internet.
It is necessary to remove the dash and then recharge the recovery A/C, which necessitates a significant amount of work and time.
6. Air Stops When Accelerating
Some of the faults associated with the air conditioning system might be difficult to identify. In many circumstances, changing the AC fuse can resolve the problem; nevertheless, it is possible that you will have a vacuum leak at this time. A vacuum leak is most often detected when the air conditioning system ceases to function as soon as the accelerator pedal is depressed. Following our investigation, we discovered that Dodge Ram owners have stated that the vacuum line connected to the cruise control is nearly usually the source of the problem.
After repairing or replacing the damaged pipe, the air conditioner should begin to function properly.
It is true that discovering a vacuum leak takes some time, but it is not difficult provided you have the necessary resources. However, the following video will teach you how to locate a leak in your car in an easy-to-understand manner:
Dodge Ram AC Replacement Cost
When it comes to Dodge Ram air conditioning problems, they are very commonplace. Furthermore, in many circumstances, you may repair it yourself. However, if you aren’t confident in your mechanical abilities or can’t be bothered to fix the problem yourself, you should expect to pay $250 for a new compressor. The labor costs for this work might run anywhere from $100 to $120 depending on how many people are involved. However, depending on the severity of your problem, your technician may need to clean the evaporator as well as all of the lines in the system since acid has polluted the system.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Are you interested in learning more about the air conditioning system in your car? Then check out the next section:
Why is my truck AC not blowing cold air?
When you have a blown AC fuse, the air conditioner will frequently cease operating. Check the fuse in your truck’s fuse box to make sure it’s not blown. If the fuse appears to be worn out, it should be replaced, and your air conditioning system should function properly.
Why is my AC running but not cooling in my car?
If your air conditioner is still operating but isn’t cooling your truck, it’s likely that the condenser has stopped working or has been clogged with debris. It will have to be replaced in any case, and the system should be operational again.
How can I keep my car cool without AC?
In the event that money is short at the moment, you might roll down the windows and park in a shaded area. As a result, the interior of your automobile will remain cooler. Additionally, while the car is in motion, you might spray some water on it and open the doors to allow the water to begin to evaporate.
Can you drive a car without AC condenser?
Although driving without an air conditioner condenser might be inconvenient, it is possible to do so. It is entirely up to you whether you choose to drive without chilly air conditioning.
Experiencing Dodge Ramair conditioning difficulties may be a stressful experience for most people—imagine discovering that your air conditioning system has stopped working in the middle of summer. That’s not at all enjoyable. However, as you now know, repairing your air conditioning system is not difficult, and in many situations, simply changing the AC fuse will cure the problem. Moreover, in certain circumstances, only replacing the blower motor is sufficient to restore the vehicle to service.
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