Adjust AC Compressor Clutch Air Gap? (Solved)

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  • Adjust the ‘air gap’. Remove the center nut on the compressor shaft, and pull the clutch disk off the shaft. There will 1 or more washers behind the disk remove as many as you can with out the disk binding while the compressor is off.

Should AC compressor clutch always spin?

Most AC clutches are designed to spin freely when disengaged, and also with the pulley and compressor when those are engaged. If the clutch spins freely at all times, and the compressor never comes on, then it may not be engaging and therefore needs to be replaced.

Why does my AC clutch kick on and off?

There are several possible causes as to why an air conditioner’s compressor would quickly turn on and off. There could be a short circuit or damaged wire in the electronic components of the compressor or the thermostat. Mechanical failure. Any of the mechanical components within the compressor may have failed.

Can you replace AC clutch without removing compressor?

Yes you can just replace the clutch pulley on the a/c compressor. The issue that you may have is the pulley bearing seized up and may have spun on the front of the compressor nose cone and will damage it. You may need to replace compressor.

What causes AC clutch to slip?

A slipping AC compressor clutch is a sign of severe wear, shorted clutch coil or an incorrect air gap (explained later). The AC compressor drive belt rotates the compressor pulley at all times when the engine is running. But the pulley will not rotate the AC compressor shaft unless the compressor clutch has engaged.

How do I engage my AC clutch manually?

At the compressor’s front side, unplug the single wire connector, take a jumper wire and attach it to the wire that you just disconnected from the compressor. Connect the other end of the jumper’s wire to the positive terminal of the car battery. This will enable the compressor to start manually.

Can you hand clutch a AC compressor?

Yes, the clutch does not move ‘normally’ until the a/c is activated and then it does spin with the pulley. However the clutch assy and compressor are mounted on the same keyed shaft and turn together ALWAYS. Therefore if you turn the clutch assy by any means it will be turning the compressor.

Why isn’t my AC compressor pulley spinning?

It means that the clutch is not engaged. When activated the magnet clutch connects the engine via the drive belt to the compressor. When the magnetic clutch is not energized the pulley is just an idle and spins freely.

Why does my AC compressor clutch engage and disengage?

An Air Conditioner compressor clutch that engages and disengages repeatedly is a typical indicator that the system of your vehicle is flawed on refrigerant. This issue is disgusting, and experts recommend having the AC unit checked because such a system in such a condition can lead to further damages.

Should the AC compressor cycle on and off?

It is normal for the AC compressor to switch on and off. Every time the air becomes hotter, the air conditioning compressor cycles to cool it until the required temperature.

What causes AC compressor clutch failure?

Clutch failure is usually caused by high pressure or voltage issues, or a combination of both. With a wrong charge the pressure switches will cause the compressor to constantly engage and disengage. If there is not enough charge the compressor will overheat due to a lack of oil circulating.

What are the symptoms of a bad AC clutch?

Bad AC Compressor Clutch Symptoms

  • Higher Cabin Temperatures. The most common sign of all bad ac compressor clutch symptoms is a higher cabin temperature than usually during hot days when you need the A/C.
  • Loud Noises.
  • Clutch Stopped Moving.
  • Inability to Turn Air On or Off.
  • Leaking Refrigerant.

Should I replace the AC clutch or the whole compressor?

The primary reason to replace an entire A/C compressor and clutch assembly is for better long-term reliability. The AC clutch pulley might be what needs replacement, but it’s likely to have done some damage to the compressor on its way out.

Adjust AC Compressor Clutch Air Gap

If the air gap in your AC compressor clutch is incorrect, the compressor clutch may either not engage or may engage but slip. Here are the air gap specifications for several of the most common AC compressor clutches that are available.

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Nippondenso AC compressor clutch air gap specs

Shims are used to modify the model C171, A590 to a range of.020′′ –.035′′. Shims are used to modify the model 10PA17C from.014′′ to.026′′. Shims are used to modify the model 6C17 and 10PA17 to a range of.020′′ –.035′′. Shims are used to modify the rest of the components to.020′′ –.035′′. The shaft nut torque on Nippondenso air conditioning compressors is 12 foot-pounds.

Ford AC compressor clutch air gap specs

Model:FS6, 6P148 is adjustable with shims to a range of.020′′ –.035′′ in diameter. Shims are used to modify the model 10PA17C and 10P13 to a range of.020′′ –.035′′. Shims are used to modify the model 10P15F to a range of.020′′ –.035′′. Shims are used to modify the Model:10P15A to a range of.016′′ –.028′′. Shims are used to modify the model:FX15 and FS10 to a range of.013′′ –.033′′. The shaft nut torque on Ford air conditioner compressors is 12 foot-pounds.

GM AC compressor clutch air gap specs

Adjusted with shims to.014′′–.026′′ for models 10PA20 and 10P15; adjusted with shims to.020′′–.035′′ for the remaining models The shaft nut torque on General Motors air conditioning compressors is 12 ft/lbs, according to 2018 Rick Muscoplat. Rick Muscoplat posted a blog entry on

adjust compressor clutch air gap the easy way

My compressor would shut down in hot weather and after it had been running for a long period of time. I measured the air gap and found it to be approximately.045′, when the specification is for 0.020 – 0.030. So, what is the best way to adjust the air gap on your Denso 10s17 compressor without using any specialty tools? (2000 Chevrolet 1500, 4.8 lb.) Take off the air box first, which will allow you to see the compressor more clearly. The central bolt on the clutch should be tightened with a 10mm socket.

  1. Now comes the tricky part: you must engage the compressor clutch so that the clutch does not spin when you attempt to unscrew the bolt.
  2. This relay may be found in the fusebox located in the engine bay.
  3. The green wire is connected to the positive terminal of the battery using the 87 connector (which is located at the bottom left of the four relay connections).
  4. I hope this helps.
  5. My clutch was so shaky that I had to manually press it inwards in order for it to get engaged.
  6. When the bolt has been removed, disconnect the green wire to avoid having the clutch burn out while driving.
  7. Additionally, you must disengage it in order to remove the clutch.

More information on this approach, as well as how to modify the air gap by removing shims, may be found in the post below. Once you’ve removed the clutch bolt, it’s rather simple to figure out. SpringerPop’s Compressor Clutch Air Gap is a product of SpringerPop. Best of luck.

(All Years) – How to: Adjust A/C Compressor Clutch.

Earlier this summer, my air conditioning began to operate only infrequently. It would blow chilly air for around 10 minutes before ceasing to operate. After shutting it off for a bit, I was able to turn it back on and it would blow cold for about another 10 minutes or so until it became ineffective. I came to this site to do some research and came across these two discussions. AC compressor clutchAC operates on an intermittent basis Forester (model year 2004) CAUTION! – Administrator’s Note: Please read this carefully.

  • There have been several triumphs, but there have also been numerous failures.
  • Good luck, and please report back to the forum on how your repair went!
  • First and foremost, I’d want to express my gratitude to everyone who has contributed to these discussions.
  • This gap can be narrowed by removing a shim that is located between the compressor and the clutch.
  • After that, I considered creating my own tool, as previously described.
  • I discovered a technique to do this job WITHOUT the need of any special instruments.

Screwdriver 10mm Socket with a 1/4in ratcheting hex key An 8mm and 10mm wrench with ratcheting action (ratcheting action is not required, but it makes the operation go much faster.) First and foremost, I would recommend that you remove the coolant overflow since it will provide you with significantly more working space.

  • Insert two of the 5mx40 bolts into the threaded holes in the clutch, and tighten them.
  • Insert a screwdriver between the 5mx40 bolts and the ratchet to secure the assembly.
  • Take a look at the image below.
  • Using a third 5mx40 bolt, insert it into the last threaded hole on the clutch after removing the center bolt fully.
  • As you progressively tighten each 5mx40 screw with your 8mm wrench, you will see how they begin to slowly pull the clutch away.
  • Therefore, it is important to switch from bolt to bolt on a frequent basis.
  • Remove one of the shims that are placed in the shaft of the clutch that you just removed with your needle nose pliers now that it has been taken apart by hand.
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Children under the age of 18 should not view this site because of its sensitive material.

Because it is magnetic, you will be able to feel it snap into position, but it will still be a long distance away from the compressor.

Using my free hand, I was able to keep the clutch in place while driving the bolt in to suck the clutch back into place.

This time, I used the identical procedure that I used to break the bolt loose in the first place to torque it back down.

Overall, this process took around 45 minutes, but I am a seasoned mechanic with a lot of experience working on autos.

For the nuts and washers, it will only cost you approximately 4 bucks.

I hope my write-up is useful and that it will prevent folks from having to go to an auto parts store to rent a tool. I should also remark that my air conditioning is blowing chilly continually right now. It’s very astonishing how a small reduction in the distance can make such a significant effect.

Fixing the AC compressor clutch clearance

Greetings, gentlemen. I had the well-known problem of the air conditioning screaming down after a few minutes, depending on the ambient temperature. And, as you are aware, I had to adjust the clearance of the compressor clutch. As is customary, I accept no responsibility for what you do or for what I direct you to do. If I’m completely mistaken about what I’m saying, then I bear no responsibility for my actions whatsoever. This worked for me, however it may or may not work for you as well. If you have any concerns that something is wrong, seek the advice of a professional: a doctor or an auto technician, as the case may be.

  • Start the car and turn on the air conditioning to its maximum chilly setting.
  • Check to see sure the air conditioning is running at a cool temperature.
  • If you do experience chilly air, keep the hood covered in warm weather if at all feasible until the air coming out of the vents no longer seems cold to you.
  • We want as much heat as possible in there.
  • Remove the hood and inspect the clutch on the air conditioning compressor.
  • 4: Now, while the engine is running, carefully tap the clutch that is not spinning with a long tool (I used a long piece of metal).
  • If the clutch is engaged, your tool will be thrown all over the place.

5: If the clutch engages, this indicates that the clearance is too large.

6.

In front of the compressor, you can see the electrical hookup that connects to the clutch.

I was able to get my air conditioning repaired, but looking back, I spent much too much time studying it, with a plethora of search results for ‘bread clips’ and ‘cable ties’ but no information on how to do it properly.

So, here’s what I learnt, which may be of use to others who will undoubtedly encounter this situation.

For the sake of thoroughness, I should explain that the ‘correct’ solution to this problem is to modify the clearance between the clutch and the compressor on the compressor axle, which is positioned between the clutch and the compressor (they look like washers).

The difficulty is that in order to do it, you must first remove the clutch.

The solution is to remove/replace some of the shims across the system.

Keep in mind that it is possible that there are no shims beneath your clutch, in which case the ‘correct’ remedy is clutch or compressor replacement, depending on the situation.

Even novice individuals may do the repair in less than an hour if they follow the instructions carefully.

See how it’s done on a 98 V70 with the use of bread bag clips.

Add some RTV to the top of the clip to prevent it from being blown away by the rotation and continual movement of the clutch during engagement and disengagement of the vehicle.

Videos demonstrating the use of cable ties This approach may not be effective for lower clutch clearances since the cable tie thickness is typically 1.2mm, which brings the clutch plate too near to the cable tie.

It didn’t work for me, unfortunately.

It may be used on both older Volvos and modern Volvos with torque plates that are circular in shape.

I propose installing all six of these so that in the event of one of them malfunctioning, the clutch will still be evenly distributed.

If you use cable ties that are too small, they will fall into the gap and do nothing to help you fix the clutch.

Instead of using cable ties, small strips of metal sheet can be used.

I utilized galvanized HVAC metal sheet from Home Depot just because I had some on hand in my garage and wanted to use it.

Another option has been to use welding wire that has been flattened with a hammer to the necessary thickness, which has been measured with a caliper (see video), or frame hanging wire or 16 gauge cooper wire.

I discovered that lifting the car and removing the front right wheel, removing the wheel well metal plate (2x 10mm plastic nuts), and folding the plastic liner up and keeping it in this position with a clamp is the quickest and most effective method for accomplishing this on the R.

If you have large hands, you will have enough of room to work on the clutch with this arrangement. During work, it’s most effective to lay down on your back parallel to the length of the automobile, with your arms stretched out. I used the following tools:

  • To measure the clearance, use a feeler gauge
  • To measure the sheet thickness, use calipers
  • To cut the strips, use aviator snips. the use of a flat screwdriver to wedge between the springs arches behind the circular plate in the centre of the clutch to provide space for the strip to slide under the spring
  • For grabbing the strip from beneath the spring and turning it over, use a hook-ended pick
  • For rotating the clutch into position by pushing on the rivet heads, use a long pray bar or long piece of metal or hard wood. Please keep in mind that twisting the compressor axle with a wrench will not spin the clutch.

Procedure:1. Measure the clutch gap while the engine is cool and the engine is turned off first! Why is it so cold? Because, once you have installed the strips, you do not want the clutch to rub while it is disengaged when you begin to drive the vehicle. If the clearance is not within specifications, determine the thickness of the shim that will be required. Remember that this is not an exact science, and that a 1mm clutch clearance may only drop to 0.6mm after applying a 0.5mm shim, for example.

  • 2.
  • 3.
  • Place the flat screwdriver behind the hub and between the two springs to complete the installation.
  • Slide the strip under the arch of the spring arch.
  • It is a good idea to place the strip exposed end (the other end) in such a manner that when the clutch is engaged, the strip exposed end (the other end) is pointed in the opposite direction of the clutch rotation.
  • Use the pick to raise and bend the strip flat over the spring arch so that it is flush with the arch.
  • 8.

9.

10.

If it is not within specifications, you may require a thicker strip.

If the clearing is satisfactory, proceed to the next spring location and repeat the operation.

I chose 6 for the sake of peace of mind and because they were simple to install from the links provided below.

Take advantage of the fresh air once more.

AC Clutch Air Gap

I’ve been running mine around.20 -.25 since experiencing the identical troubles you’re mentioning. The clutch would not engage under specific settings and at varied periods, resulting in the A/C blowing hot air until the clutch was engaged once again. I assumed it was an engagement issue because when we pulled over for gas and the A/C was spewing hot air, I opened the hood and saw that the plates were not engaged or drawn into the engine. With the palm of my hand, I tapped the plate, and that was just enough to cause it to turn on.

  • When I removed the plate, I discovered that there were no shims available for me to use in order to bring the plate closer.
  • The good news is that this was all I needed to have the air conditioning running properly once more.
  • It is quite OK if it is not engaged when you do not want it to be.
  • As soon when you press the **** to select A/C, you should hear the clutch engaging and disengaging as the function is selected.
  • I experienced the same issues on my 2002 Sable and performed the same modification.

Try that first before going out and purchasing a refill kit or taking it to a repair center. It simply takes a few minutes and costs nothing to make a little modification to the clutch. Please keep us informed of your findings.

[SOLVED] – A/C specialist says clutch air gap too much

Yup! Those are the signs and symptoms of a faulty clutch. Others are: the air conditioning works fine on startup, but after a few minutes of driving, it shuts down and begins blowing hot air (as previously stated, once even more heat has built up inside the engine compartment from driving for a while, internal resistance in the magnetic clutch rises, and then either a fuse or some intelligent circuit breaker flips), and, of course, the air conditioning frequently blows fuses- but the a/c works perfectly in between replacing the blown fuses.

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There are some symptoms that an electrical problem is present, rather than a problem with the compressor itself.

Feeler gauges are excellent for detecting an excessively wide gap, and if you can see your compressor, you can see it engage when a buddy inside the car switches on the a/c- or not engage if the gap is far too large!

They purchase from General Motors for $250 and resale for $500 (I’m making up these amounts), when you can just purchase online for $250 or less;-) However, they have a supply chain, a warehouse, and shipping expenses to consider, not to mention insurance in case the replacement component arrives damaged and they have to pay the technician all over again to reinstall it.

  1. I’m not familiar with a/c compressors, but I’m sure many have tried to save a penny (or a several thousand dollars) by purchasing junkyard engines or gearboxes, or by having a rebuild done from the cheapest supplier they could find.
  2. When a customer brought in a rebuilt gearbox that he had acquired online, a friend at an independent shop went through three transmissions on the hummer.
  3. wait for a new reconstruction to begin.
  4. However, as a result of the substandard trans provider, he was forced to pay an additional three Rs.
  5. Because of this, it is also built in insurance and CYA when an auto dealership insists on only supplying branded components and their own in-house rebuilt transmissions for $5000.
  6. I’m aware that some junkyards even have lifetime guarantees on such components, however the warranty would only cover the replacement of the part with another scrap and not the hefty labor costs associated with the repair.
  7. I was wrong, of course, and the failure rate on cheap ebay ones might not be that awful.

When the lock is unlocked, there is no power, and when the lock is locked, there is no power and the lock cannot be pulled all the way down.

I did, however, come across some oem overstock on eBay that was being sold below cost, which was a pleasant surprise.

IF they provided consumers the choice of purchasing the $25 (marked up to $50) door lock actuator, they’d have to deal with an avalanche of complaints; and the work, I’m guessing, would cost $100-$200 each door.

If I’d taken the $25 lock motor (which I bought for three doors) to a shop and had them install it, I’d be out at least $400 in labor costs.

Dealership pricing aren’t completely irrational; there are legitimate reasons behind them.

$30-$40 oil changes (depending on the quality of the oil) have no profit margin; they are simply a convenience and loss leader to bring in the other business that pays better.

You can easily come up with $800 for a compressor; $250 marked up to $500, maybe 2 hours work at $100/hour for the refrigeration, and another $100 for the air conditioning evacuation and recharge, and there you have it.

AC Clutch Adjustment

The following sections are available: Home|Mailing List|Specifications|Care and Feeding|Micro-Modifications|Vendors|Literaturenew on September 9, 2004, updated on July 7, 2007FS-10

  1. Using a feeler gauge, measure the air gap between the A/C clutch and the A/Cclutch
  2. Pulley mating surfaces at three evenly spaced positions on the clutch. Make a note of the measurements
  3. Remove the A/C clutch if any of the three measures recorded are not within 0.35 to 0.85 mm (0.014 to 0.033 inch) of one another. Remove the A/C clutch hub spacer and take measurements. Choose the suitable thickness A/C clutch hub spacer in order to keep the air gap within the stipulated limitations
  4. And Install the A/C clutch hub spacer and the A/C clutch in the vehicle. Check the air gap measurement again.
  1. Make three equal-spaced measurements using a feeler gauge to determine the amount of air gap between the A/C clutch and the A/Cclutch
  2. Pulley mating surfaces. Measurements should be taken down. The A/C clutch should be removed if any of the three measurements recorded are outside of the range of0.35-0.85 mm (0.14-0.033 inch). To check the A/C clutch hub spacer, remove it and measure its length. Make sure you use the proper thickness A/C clutch hub spacer to keep the air gap within the prescribed limits. Install the A/C clutch hub spacer and the A/C clutch in their respective locations. Check the measurement of the air gap once more.

Using a feeler gauge, measure the air gap between the A/C clutch and the A/Cclutch; pulley mating surfaces at three evenly spaced points. Make a note of the measurements. If any of the three measurements collected are not within0.35-0.85 mm (0.014-0.033 inch), the A/C clutch should be removed. Remove the A/C clutch hub spacer and take measurements of it. Make sure you use the proper thickness A/C clutch hub spacer to keep the air gap within the stipulated limits. Install the A/C clutch hub spacer as well as the A/C clutch.

Setting Clutch Gap On A6 Compressor 1970’s

Hello everyone,A month ago, my 72′ CDV started making a screeching noise at idle. It was intermittent. Traced it down to the A/C compressor clutch. There is absolutely no air gap between the clutch plates, they are rubbing together. Not dragging the compressor on, just rubbing together. I bought the proper tools, the puller and installer for the a6 compressor. I followed the shop manual about setting the ‘air gap’ correctly. The problem is I set the air gap to about 32 thousands with a feeler gauge, and then tighten the nut back to 15ft-lbs, and everything is fine. Manually cycle the A/C on and off in the driveway, and the clutch retains the correct gap when the A/C is off. But when I drive the car around the block and come back in the driveway, the clutch gap has closed back up again and the clutch plates are touching. I’m not quite sure what to do. I have tried the procedure 2 separate times on different days, with the same results. I am open to suggestions. The irony of all this, is the A/C blows ice cold and works perfectly. But the compressor clutch just squeaks.Thanks-GavinLogged-Gavin Myers CLC Member27431’The 59′ Cadillac says more about America than a whole trunk full of history books, It was the American Dream’


Gavin,On my closed body Cadillacs, including my 1970 SDV I leave the climate control in the on position so the compressor operates continuously except if it drops blow 32’F.In CA you should be good.Understand this does not solve your problem.Reads like you need to replace the clutch.Did you see any way when you pulled that a wear item has finished its life?Leaving the climate control in on position operating all my vehicles (except not the convertible) over the years has resulted in likely me never having to do anything to them service wise.Only exception was 78 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royal, that car although beautiful was built terrible.Of all the cars I owned, that Olds suffered the most build issue of any in all my life of driving probably a million miles about now.LoggedFairfax Station, VA22039 (Washington DC Sub) 1970 Cadillac DeVille Convertible 1970 Cadillac Sedan DeVille 1970 four door Convertible w/Cadillac Warranty


LoggedRob Wirsing


Hello Scot.When I pulled the clutch I did not see anything wrong with it. Somehow it just closed up the gap on itself. I think I may need a new clutch plate. That’s the only thing I think it can be. That would be upsetting, because the original a-6 from the car went 41 years and still worked. And this one has only been on for almost 4 years.Rob, funny you posted that link, I actually stumbled across that write up 3 times on the internet when trying to find the problem.So according to this from the link below:’This nut does not hold on or impacts the position of the clutch. It appears to be a safety precaution just in case the press fit clutch somehow comes off the compressor shaft.’Something seems weird. I don’t think that I am doing anything wrong, but it is always possible. Its like the nut pulls in the clutch plate anyways? I hope this made some sense.-GavinLogged-Gavin Myers CLC Member27431’The 59′ Cadillac says more about America than a whole trunk full of history books, It was the American Dream’


Logged-Gavin Myers CLC Member27431’The 59′ Cadillac says more about America than a whole trunk full of history books, It was the American Dream’


Gavin,It IS posible you have the wrong nut installed.If the shoulder is too wide it COULD pull the clutch disc in, but if there is a gap after you install the nut it should not change.Is the disc actually close enough to the pulley faqce to contact it and drag, or does it just look close.If you can turn the disc and the compressor does not turn it is free. Greg SurfasLoggedCadillac Kid-Greg Surfas Director Modified Chapter CLC CLC15364 66 Coupe deVille (now gone to the UK) 72 Eldo Cpe(now cruising the sands in Quatar) 73 Coupe deVille 75 Coupe deElegance 76 Coupe deVille 79 Coupe de ville with ‘Paris’ (pick up) option and 472 motor 514 inch motor now in ’73-


Hello Greg,I used the same nut that I pulled off the compressor. That’s the confusing part, there is a gap after installing the nut. The proper gap, but after driving around the block it is right back to where it started. The compressor clutch plate is touching the pulley. It is grinding on it. The first time I opened the hood and heard the noise, there was red dust all over the engine compartment from the compressor clutch. I’m at a loss.ThanksGavinLogged-Gavin Myers CLC Member27431’The 59′ Cadillac says more about America than a whole trunk full of history books, It was the American Dream’


Gavin,I was thinking about this more, and there is a mechanical stop that keeps the clutch gap from being too much, and there must a minor spring force to keep them separate.Then when solenoid is energized, magnet force overcomes the spring force keeping the clutch apart (likely 10 times more forceful than spring keeping clutch apart) and a/c compressor runs.The adjustment you made is more likely the outer limit of max gap.It reads like your spring force that keeps clutch apart has failed or weakened.I would look there.Likely this is an uncommon failure and any GM clutch could be cannibalized for this part inexpensively.LoggedFairfax Station, VA22039 (Washington DC Sub) 1970 Cadillac DeVille Convertible 1970 Cadillac Sedan DeVille 1970 four door Convertible w/Cadillac Warranty


Gavin, Dumb question.Did you have the pulley off, and if so, did you reinstall all the snap rings? Greg SurfasLoggedCadillac Kid-Greg Surfas Director Modified Chapter CLC CLC15364 66 Coupe deVille (now gone to the UK) 72 Eldo Cpe(now cruising the sands in Quatar) 73 Coupe deVille 75 Coupe deElegance 76 Coupe deVille 79 Coupe de ville with ‘Paris’ (pick up) option and 472 motor 514 inch motor now in ’73-


Gavin, Just looking back on this thread.IF the three spring/straps on the clutch disc are not broken they might be a bit weak.I would suggest trying to set the air gap a little looser (by a couple of thousanths) and see if that helps. Greg SurfasLoggedCadillac Kid-Greg Surfas Director Modified Chapter CLC CLC15364 66 Coupe deVille (now gone to the UK) 72 Eldo Cpe(now cruising the sands in Quatar) 73 Coupe deVille 75 Coupe deElegance 76 Coupe deVille 79 Coupe de ville with ‘Paris’ (pick up) option and 472 motor 514 inch motor now in ’73-


I have been at this cross roads many a time.Here is what I learned,it is futile to think the problem is ‘just the clutch’. When i believed it was the problem.and replaced just the clutch, it was no time at all and there was yet another failure. Ultimatly resulting in a complete compressor /clutch replacement. With much aggregation and expense in between.I was just with this problem with a 1968 convertible with the factory original OEM compressor, i noticed too.no air gap betweenthe friction. I just bit the bullet and replaced, fully the compressor with clutch assembly. No more issues! I carefully peeled off the original sticker onto the replacement.You will notice too, the solely clutch purchase is 80% of the cost of the whole compressor/clutch assembly. The assembly also has a warrantee!I purchased the A6 from NAPA and was impressed with the apparent quality of the rebuild. There was a time the rebuilds were junk right out of the box.’4 summers’ * brand were some of the worst at the time.* not the real nameLogged


See below image of same problem you are having.no air gap. This is OEM compressor removed from a 68.I suspect the real issue is the compressor offers increasingly more resistance (variety of reasons and conditions)until the clutch starts slipping. Once the slipping starts.the friction heats up the clutch assembly.causing loss of temper in the return spring.Logged


V63,With all due respects you may be 100% right, but in the post I think the original compressor/clutch lasted 41 years so this is a replacement, likely a rebuild, as they all are.The rebuilders may have not replaced the snap rings which may be weak.While it is tempting to install a new unit, ‘new’ parts are often plagued with bad quality issues.I have replaced the most minimal of components, made adjustments and the like to repair would appeared to be a major component failure.Since Gavin is comfortable with this type of work probably best for him to just knock it out and go from there.If I thought a ‘new’ compressor/clutch assembly would last another 41 years, I would agree with you 100%, and probably replace all three in my 1970 Cadillacs because then they would all outlast me.I repaired a 1970 Buick that was not charging yesterday, and the new alternator and voltage regulator were diagnosed as the problem so I replaced them with ‘new’.The bolt (furnished with alternator) that threads into the top of the alternator housing broke with about 2.0 ft-lbs as I was snugging it up.It was a pain to remove, but at least did not have to drill it out.Then the voltage regulator was DOA, dead short- generator dash light on even when car was off no key in ignition and 17 volts.This is typical of classic car repairs.I quote the word new because I used to think it was better to replace with new, but now not so much.LoggedFairfax Station, VA22039 (Washington DC Sub) 1970 Cadillac DeVille Convertible 1970 Cadillac Sedan DeVille 1970 four door Convertible w/Cadillac Warranty


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Moody A/C clutch

You are currently using an out-of-date web browser. It is possible that this or other websites will not show correctly. You need either upgrade your browser or switch to another one. Ownership of a Buick 52110Buick Okay, for the last year, the ac would only turn on when I stomped on the gas, which would make it turn on for a short period of time. Eventually, it has come to the point where I have to smack the compressor’s clutch with a screw driver (very carefully, mind you) in order for it to engage again.

Actually, you may simply modify the clutch air gap without having to remove the compressor from the system.

Acceleration, facing uphill, or even a little tap is all that is required to bring it near enough for the magnet to take over and take control.

Simply borrow a clutch tool from your local parts supply store and use it to bring the gap back up to specification.

Would it be beneficial for me to replace the entire clutch while I still have the tool?

Actually, you may simply modify the clutch air gap without having to remove the compressor from the system.

Acceleration, facing uphill, or even a little tap is all that is required to bring it near enough for the magnet to take over and take control.

Simply borrow a clutch tool from your local parts supply store and use it to bring the gap back up to specification.

This was the first thing I noticed when I purchased the automobile.

When I have an opportunity, I’ll make the necessary adjustments to the gap.

Thank you for the advice.

It appears to be nothing more than a radiator hose in the way.

The clutch is made of steel on steel, which means there are no friction materials to wear away.

4,807120MI Ownership of a Buick Roadmaster Good luck in locating the tool that has the right threads on the shaft.

I bought the tool on onebay, but the threads were incorrect (despite the fact that they were advertised as correct threads), and I leased multiples from auto shops, but the threads were incorrect.

Ownership of a Buick 52110Buick Okay, how large of a distance do you want, and where do you want me to measure the gap from?

Ownership of a Buick 52110 Buick Updates will be made here.

save for the fact that I believe the clutch plate was already within specification around.03 in.

I applied a little torque to it, and it appears to be engaging more frequently.

Look no farther than right here at our very own forum store – where orders are mailed out the same day they are placed!

I’m going to do the entire clutch thing.

A folded card should be able to slip into the slot; a straight card should not.

Personally, I’d aim for 0.020′ of clearance.

Many air conditioning technicians employ the business card test: a card should glide through the gap, but a folded business card should not.

Personally, I’d aim for 0.020′ of clearance.

Benton Harbor, Michigan (population: 6,94370) Ownership of a Buick 95 Roadmaster Sedan (3), Roadmaster Wagon (9496), and Roadmaster Wagon (3) Good luck in locating the tool that has the right threads on the shaft.

I bought the tool on onebay, but the threads were incorrect (despite the fact that they were advertised as correct threads), and I leased multiples from auto shops, but the threads were incorrect.

Were they not the ones that broke the shaft off at the dealer?

They are * (* percent) of the time to remove.

4,807120MI Ownership of a Buick Roadmaster That was, in fact, me.

Benton Harbor, Michigan has a population of 6,94370 people.

(Because of the shaft seal, it is unlikely that heat would be beneficial.)

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