- If you have a C1230 ABS light on Ford issue, follow these test procedures to diagnose and fix the problem. The trouble code C1230 refers to a Wheel Speed Sensor Rear Center Input Circuit Failure. Notice that it says CIRCUIT failure.
What does code C1230 mean?
The trouble code C1230 refers to a Wheel Speed Sensor Rear Center Input Circuit Failure. Notice that it says CIRCUIT failure. It does not say SENSOR failure, although the sensor may be causing the problem, you should test the circuit BEFORE replacing the sensor.
How do you fix the ABS light on a Ford f150?
Turn the ignition off if all of the ABS wires appear to be normal and in-tact at the wheel hub. Wait 30 seconds and turn the ignition back on to the “II” position. If the ABS light remains on, the ABS is malfunctioning. You may have a bad sensor at one of the wheels.
What does the ABS light mean on a Ford f150?
April 10, 2020. Your abs light on a ford f150 comes on when the car fails a self diagnostic cycle. It’s indicating that your f150 does not have anti-lock brakes.
Why is my ABS light on Ford?
The four common reasons that typically cause this light to turn on include a malfunctioning ABS module, low levels in the fluid reservoir, broken wheel speed sensors, or the system is turned off. Your ABS actually shares some important components with another system in your vehicle: your traction control system.
Will AutoZone read ABS codes?
Unfortunately, the only way to check whether or not the problem is with the ABS is to go and get the codes of your car read. AutoZone can scan your codes as part of our Fix Finder service, or you can do it yourself if you already have a scan tool. Having the codes read assists in determining what the actual problem is.
Can a bad wheel bearing cause the ABS light to come on?
On many modern cars, a bad wheel bearing will trigger a warning light. The ABS or traction control warnings will often illuminate, since a bad bearing will trip the system to deactivate.
How do I fix my ABS light?
Methods of Troubleshooting ABS brakes
- Put the key in the ignition and turn the car on and off, if the ABS light appears on the dashboard.
- Clean the front wheel sensors if your ABS pulses at low speed while little pressure is applied.
- Apply pressure to the ABS brake if it won’t stop.
Can you turn ABS light off?
The ABS light on a Vehicles is designed to alert the driver to potential problems with any part of the anti-lock braking system. An automotive scan tool with ABS capabilities is the only tool that can properly clear the codes from the ABS computer in order to turn off the ABS light.
Can I drive with a bad ABS module?
You can still drive without a functional ABS control module, as long as there’s no problem with your conventional brake system. However, take extra care, especially in wet or slick conditions, as the brakes’ anti-lock element won’t work, and you likely won’t have steering control if your tires lock up.
How do you diagnose a bad ABS sensor?
Bad ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Symptoms
- Illuminated Warning Lights. Your dashboard contains a variety of important lights that alert you to danger.
- Pulsating Brake Pedal while braking.
- Loss of Anti-lock Brakes.
- Loss of Traction or Stability Control.
What are the symptoms of a bad ABS module?
Signs Of A Faulty ABS Module
- The ABS Warning Light Glows. This is the most common sign of problems with the ABS system.
- The Brakes Lock Up. The ABS system is specifically designed to prevent any wheel from locking up during heavy braking.
- An Unresponsive Brake Pedal.
- Increased Pedal Effort.
- Speedometer Failure.
False ABS, C1230
Hello, everyone. I’ve got a conundrum for you. This is on my 2005 FX4 SCrew, which has around 120 kilometers on it. First and foremost, here is the only site I could locate someone else who was experiencing the exact same difficulty as I was: Unfortunately, it doesn’t appear like anybody was able to come to a satisfactory conclusion. In a nutshell, while braking in dry or no-slip situations, the ABS engages, but after a second or two, the system decides it didn’t need to engage and disables itself, at which time the ABS light illuminates and remains illuminated.
It will occasionally do it while braking hard from highway speeds, and other times it will do it when braking softly from speeds of 20 mph or less.
When this occurs, I can hear the ABS pumping and feel it in the brake pedal, which indicates that the ABS is on.
But after a few minutes of driving and reaching whatever the critical situation is, the ABS will again activate when it isn’t needed, then disable itself and illuminate the ABS light, which will remain illuminated until the vehicle is turned off again.
- Everywhere I go, I read that there are alternate/special/magical “ABS codes,” but my reader is unable of deciphering them (does anybody know if the readers that Advance, O’Reilly, and Autozone often have on hand these days are capable of deciphering them?).
- The resistance of the sensor, according to what I read, should be approximately 5 Mohm, plus or minus a few of Mohm depending on the manufacturer.
- In the process of replacing a sensor ($80, yeesh), I discovered that the sensor was also measuring as an open circuit.
- The parts store allowed me to swap it for free, but even the second replacement sensor detected an open circuit and had to be replaced.
- This is a bit of a digression, but here’s my sermon on the importance of utilizing high-quality equipment.
- My friend owns a Fluke, which is the finest of the best (albeit the low-end ones are priced between $150 and $200), and he graciously allowed me to borrow it.
- The moral of the tale is that if you are not utilizing a Fluke DMM, you are doing incorrectly.
I found a wiring diagram for the ABS module harness and verified continuity from there all the way down to the sensor pigtail (while wriggling around on the sensor pigtail wires), and everything appeared to be in working order as well (no shorts, either).
I’ve had the vehicle for five years and haven’t done anything to it in terms of brake maintenance throughout that time.
My pedal travel was also rather extensive, thus the pads were probably beginning to wear out at this point as well.
I just performed a complete brake job last night, which included new pads all around, newly spun front rotors, and completely new rear rotors, among other things.
After putting everything back together, I took it for a ride and noticed that the hoppy rear end was no longer there.
I pulled into a gravel lot to make sure the anti-lock braking system (ABS) was still working properly, and sure enough, on a strong brake, it responded as predicted (with no light).
It tripped again when I came to a “proper” stop at a red light, then it tripped again when I slowed down to around 30 miles per hour.
I also had the impression that the tone ring in the differential could be chipped or fractured, so I took the speed sensor out and inserted an inspection cam into the differential, then turned the wheels slowly (with the back end up on stands, obviously).
There was nothing that stuck out to me.
Finally, my last hope that it isn’t the electronic ABS module (which, according to my dealership, will cost approximately $700 to replace) is that the connectors in the pigtail are actually dirty or “loose,” and that this is causing the connectors to bounce around enough when driving to cause signal problems.
Are there any other comments on this subject from anyone? Please forgive me for the encyclopedia-like format, but I wanted to make certain that I included everything that I’d already tried.
Code C1230, ABS Speed Sensor Rear Center Input Circuit Failure
RONNY ADEN is a well-known actor. The brake-ABS light on the dashboard remains illuminated, indicating code c1230. Do you have the same issue as I do? YesNo AT 2:18 p.m. on Tuesday, November 3rd, 2020,
8 Replies
Several factors might be responsible for this. I’ve included the tests that we’ll need to do in order to figure out what’s going wrong. Please let me know any queries you have so that we can go from there. Thanks Images (Click on the image to see it larger.) ADVERTISING SPONSORED LINK AT 2:35 P.M. ON TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 3RD, 2020 Hello, my name is Danny. I’ve attached an image of the diagnostic and repair processes for you to review further below. You didn’t mention whether or whether it was four-wheel anti-lock brakes in the rear, but that is what I based my assumption on.
- I hope this information is useful, and thank you for using 2CarPros.
- on Tuesday, November 3rd, 2020, Hello, my name is DannyRonny and I’m here.
- The ABS brake light remains illuminated.
- AT 2:59 p.m.
- In order to be on the same page, please note that this is not an E or F-450, but rather a mobile home with the Code C1230.
- Please let us know, and we’ll take it from there.
- Danny- AT 5:26 p.m.
I apologize for taking so long to respond to you.
duly!
Replace the rear speed sensor with a new one.
If it were my truck and the sensor had never been changed, this would be the first place I’d look.
Yes!
Now all I have to do is figure out where it is.
I have not yet removed the wheels to investigate the interior of the hub.
At 10:31 a.m.
The bolt is held in place with a 10mm bolt; after the bolt has been removed, gently wriggle the bolt up and out using a flat tip screw driver or a tiny pry bar. a picture of a picture of a picture (Click to enlarge) AT 12:54 p.m. on November 4, 2020, the date is set.
Related Transmission Input Shaft Sensor Content
Please consider using this link to support FordF150.net whenever you purchase at Amazon.com (for anything). Looking for subjects that have recently been discussed? Arkman Posts by new members: 12 Thursday, April 5, 2012 at 9:38 a.m. My truck is a 2004 Ford F150 XLT with several modifications.
ABS Light, Check Engine Light, and Wrench Light P2106 C1230 U2023
While driving back from our cabin the other day, I suddenly lost power and the wrench light on (not sure what its called). That was the last thing I did for the evening. I drove the extra ten miles back to my house and turned off the vehicle. When I switched it on, everything worked well. A week later, I was driving and it occurred again; this time, it was the check engine light and the ABS light were both illuminated at the same time. When I turned off the truck, all of the lights went off save for the engine light.
- After that, I get all three lights back on.
- P2106, C1230, and U2023, to name a few.
- I don’t have a lot of knowledge about this subject.
- That particular vehicle is a 2004 Ford F150 XLT 4dr with the new body design.
- Posts:4552 Joined: Tuesday, December 19, 2006, 6:54 p.m.
Re: ABS Light, Check Engine Light, and Wrench Light
The rear diff speed sensor and wiring should be checked, according to Postbythefordmaniac»c1230. It’s likely that the sensor needs to be replaced. The throttle body should be checked for excessive carbon accumulation, as well as for contamination of the maf sensor (p2106). What kind of air filter do you have installed? Is it in good condition and free of debris? In which module does the u2023 code reside? abs? -mike Real Americans are the ones who drive American. ASE Certified Diesel Fleet Mechanic with Ford Factory Training, Gasoline and Diesel Experience Platform with a 7.3 – 6.0 Econoline rating International chassis with a 6.4 inch wheelbase G-series vans with 6.6-liter duramax engines and Topkick chassis Arkman Posts by new members: 12 Thursday, April 5, 2012 at 9:38 a.m.
Re: ABS Light, Check Engine Light, and Wrench Light
PostbyArkman» It seems like a K N filter to me. That was put in by the person who came before me when I bought the truck a short while ago. I’ll have a look at it the next day. After all, I’m not sure which module the U2023 code was located in at this point. If my recollection serves me correctly, there were codes in the ABS, transmission, and another location. Whatever it was, I don’t recall it. Arkman Posts by new members: 12 Thursday, April 5, 2012 at 9:38 a.m. My truck is a 2004 Ford F150 XLT with several modifications.
Re: ABS Light, Check Engine Light, and Wrench Light
PostbyArkman» Okay, I’d want to ask you another question. I’ve begun looking on cleaning the MAF, and so far I’ve come across a lot of useful information that is also really consistent. In general, avoid touching the wires and only clean them with the appropriate cleaning. My issue is if I can just spray the cleaner at the sensor’s wires without causing damage to them, or whether the pressure from the spray would damage the wire.
I want to be certain that everything is done correctly. thefordmaniac Hardcore Ford Truck Enthusiast Posts:4552 Joined: Tuesday, December 19, 2006, 6:54 p.m. Truck:1998 Ford F150 XL 2WD Automatic Location:Maryland Modifications I’ve made to my truck
Re: ABS Light, Check Engine Light, and Wrench Light
Postbythefordmaniac» Remove the maf sensor totally from the system. Spray it lightly with MAF sensor cleaning and let it to dry in the open air. -mike Real Americans are the ones who drive American. Engines: gasoline and diesel, Ford Factory Trained Diesel Fleet Mechanic with the American Society of Automotive Engineers (ASE). Platform with a 7.3 – 6.0 Econoline rating International chassis with a 6.4 inch wheelbase G-series vans with 6.6-liter duramax engines and Topkick chassis Arkman Posts by new members: 12 Thursday, April 5, 2012 at 9:38 a.m.
Re: ABS Light, Check Engine Light, and Wrench Light
PostbyArkman» Okay, I took care of the MAF. My air filter was cleaned and reinstalled. I’m going to try to figure out which sensor is malfunctioning tomorrow. However, I may be dealing with another issue that is linked. My brake light (not the ABS) will illuminate on and off from time to time. It’s almost like it’s flickering. It turns on for a split second and then turns off again; it repeats this for a time before turning on permanently. It leads me to believe that there is a loose or defective connection somewhere, but I’m not sure where to search to find out.
Arkman Posts by new members: 12 Thursday, April 5, 2012 at 9:38 a.m.
Re: ABS Light, Check Engine Light, and Wrench Light
»Ok, I borrowed my cousin’s snap-on scanner and this is what I came up with this time around. If I don’t have much information, please understand that I am new to this and have never used a scanner before. I received the following results in the Engine section:P0340P2106 I received the following code in the ABS section: C1230B1484U2023 I received the following code in the Body-interment cluster(I believe) section:B2659 I’m at a lost on what to do here. I’ve been looking and searching for information regarding what may be going on, but I’ve come up empty handed.
Can someone please assist me, as I have no idea where to begin diagnosing this things and am desperate for assistance.
Friday, January 13, 2012 at 10:07 p.m.
Re: ABS Light, Check Engine Light, and Wrench Light
Papa Tiger’s PostbyPapa Tiger» Diagnose the C1230 rear speed sensor error code, which is causing the safe mode difficulties to occur. Test the sensor and the circuit using an Ohm meter to ensure they are working properly. Take a look at your front sensors as well (brake). ABS needs to be repaired. If you have to go to the store, why not? Women may not find you attractive, but they will find you attractive in your F150Ford Built Ford.
Toughthefordmaniac Hardcore Ford truck enthusiast with 4552 posts. Joined: Tuesday, December 19, 2006, 6:54 p.m. Truck:1998 Ford F150 XL 2WD Automatic Location:Maryland Modifications I’ve made to my truck
Re: ABS Light, Check Engine Light, and Wrench Light
«The abs code is not triggering the safe mode codesm, unless the vehicle is equipped with traction control/advance trac – which I doubt it has – and even then, the outcome is still up in the air.» Replace the rear speed sensor with a new one and call it a day. eliminate K and N from your life. -mikeReal Americans are the ones who drive American. ASE Certified Diesel Fleet Mechanic with Ford Factory Training, Gasoline and Diesel Experience Platform with a 7.3 – 6.0 Econoline rating International chassis with a 6.4 inch wheelbase G-series vans with 6.6-liter duramax engines and Topkick chassis SuperF-150 Posts by new members: 1 Joined: Tuesday, March 1st, 2016, 4:22 p.m.
Re: ABS Light, Check Engine Light, and Wrench Light
PostbySuperF-150» For years, I’ve been seeking for a solution to this problem. I had a rear differential fail while driving at highway speeds in 4×4. In order to save space, I installed axles from a 01 F-350 beneath my 150. With 37″ Goodyear tires, it will be regeared to 5.88:1. The wrench light illuminates when the vehicle reaches 40 mph (every time). When you turn off the engine and restart it, the second time the wrench illuminates, it is followed by the engine light and the ABS. I had the rear tone ring redone to 108 teeth and it now fits the 1-ton carrier to match the oem 1/2 ton differential, but I still can’t figure out where the problem is coming from.
- Still on the search!
- Would a speed simulator be beneficial?
- Do you have any suggestions?
- 2005 Ford F150 pickup truck Modifications I’ve made to my truck
Re: ABS Light, Check Engine Light, and Wrench Light
Postbysp1ke01» I agree with thefordmaniac on this point. A couple of interesting observations: my break light was occasionally turning on, and it turned out that it was caused by my knee pressing down on the emergency brake pedal. When you have fully pushed up on the pedal with your hand, ensure sure the release lever for the pedal is entirely released. It is possible for the e-brake light to illuminate while the brake pedal is very slightly depressed. Were you able to determine whether or not your brake lights were operational?
on Sunday, April 15, 2018.
Modifications I’ve made to my truck
Re: ABS Light, Check Engine Light, and Wrench Light P2106 C1230 U2023
Postbydeanrybolt1» I realize this is an old topic, but I wanted to add something in case it is of use to anyone else who may be suffering the same issues in the future. I had a problem with the wrench light for quite some time. My ABS light is illuminated, as is the check engine light. The same codes as previously listed. I was under the impression that it was the throttle body or the sensor. $75.00 was spent on cleaning the TB and replacing the sensor. There has been no progress. I made the decision to replace the ABS wheel speed sensor in my rear differential, which cost $20.00.
I was able to resolve the issue and have not had a warning light since. The bottom line is that if you have all three warning lights illuminated, start by replacing the inexpensive ABS sensor and seeing whether it fixes the problem. Wishing You Success
ABS codes C1229 & C1230
:banana:RT. simply to keep everyone up to date I invested in a scanner that could read both ABS and engine codes at the same time. At first, the code was the same as yours, indicating a problem with the speed sensor. I erased the code, and the ABS light went off, but it would occasionally come back on. I ran a second check and noticed that the right front sensor was emitting two error signals. When I tested the sensor and harness with my VOM, everything was within specifications. For a few of weeks, I couldn’t figure out what was going on.
- The ABS light remained illuminated at all times, and two codes were shown, both related to the right front sensor.
- In order to avoid spending the money (I am frugal), it occurred to me to disassemble the connection (female) and check it, since I have had to replace my hub bearing on that side several times due to tire and wheel size changes.
- I used my 4 point crimper to crimp the female side a little more, then reconnected the connection and plugged the sensor in to test it.
- Prior to beginning this procedure, I cleared the codes.
- For the last week, the light has not been turned on or off.
RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Class C Motorhomes: Brake light
Noel and Betty Johnson (and Harry)2005 GulfStream Ultra Supreme, 1 Old grouch, 1 wonderful wife,and two silly poodles.
If the rear VSS (vehicle speed sensor) is bad it will have a C1230 code or similar.
If that is ok, it’s probably the sensor.
My light did not go out after turning ignition off and on again.Bumpyroad.
Thank you everyone. Ken