Ford hesitation problem? (Best solution)

  • Ford hesitation problem Some Ford V-6 3.0L engines can develop a Ford hesitation problem caused by a worn or intermittent camshaft position sensor (CMP), also called a camshaft synchronizer. This sensor is known for high failure rates.

Why does my Ford f150 hesitation when I accelerate?

An engine that is hesitating to accelerate is most likely dealing with a fuel/air mixture that is too lean. Engine’s that are running inefficiently will begin to show signs like hesitation which will only become worse over time.

Why is my Ford f150 sputtering?

Bad or Dirty Spark Plugs: Spark plugs are responsible for igniting the fuel in the combustion chamber. If they are not working correctly or are dirty they don’t ignite the fuel cleanly and the car can misfire or sputter. The plugs will need to be replaced or cleaned.

Why does my truck hesitate?

A vehicle that hesitates while accelerating or while driving up a hill may have a weak fuel pump. Fuel injectors may become dirty over time and not be able to provide as much fuel to the cylinder as is needed. Dirty fuel injectors may cause the engine to run lean which will in turn, cause hesitation when accelerating.

Why does my 2010 Ford f150 shake?

Faulty or dirty plugs: If the spark plugs are dirty or worn, it may cause misfires which leads to shaking in the engine. New spark plugs will need to be installed. Exhaust: If the muffler or exhaust system is damaged, or has a leak, there will be an increased vibration and shaking while idling.

What is EcoBoost shudder?

Many Ford F-150 pickups with EcoBoost have a condition where the vehicle shudders or stalls during normal use. In the most severe of cases, the truck will actually go into “limp mode” causing the engine to lose all power. This issue seems to be primarily from humid states like Texas and Florida.

Where is the mass air flow sensor on a 2003 Ford f150?

The 2003 Ford F-150’s MAP or “manifold absolute pressure” sensor is actually referred to as a MAF or “mass air flow” sensor and it is located on the intake tube, between the throttle body and the air filter housing.

Why is my truck sputtering when I accelerate?

Dirty or Failing Spark Plugs – The job of a spark plug is to ignite the fuel in the combustion chamber. Therefore, if one is dirty or faulty, your engine will struggle to start and sputter when you hit the gas. A clogged fuel injector nozzle causes a car engine to shake and struggle to accelerate.

What causes an engine to sputter when accelerating?

One of the most common causes of a sputtering engine is an issue with the vehicle’s fuel system—the filter, pump, and injectors. Since the fuel filter, pump, and injectors work together as part of one interconnected system, dirt and debris need only clog one part to cause the others to fail.

Why is my car sputtering and losing power?

Dirty, old, worn out, clogged filters are a common cause of car sputtering and losing power. A clogged or failing catalytic converter can cause all kinds of problems for the engine, including sputtering and stalling. Fuel injectors are oftentimes the culprit in a sputtering engine that loses power.

How do you fix hesitation when accelerating?

12 Ways You Can Check Out Hesitation Problems Yourself

  1. Check the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
  2. Check the Ignition System.
  3. Check for Vacuum Leaks.
  4. Check the Fuel System.
  5. Check the Throttle Body.
  6. Check Ignition Timing.
  7. Check the Variable Valve Timing Solenoid.
  8. Check the Mass Air Flow Sensor.

What causes a car to hesitate to start?

To give you some initial ideas, although there are many causes of hard starting illustrative causes include a faulty engine coolant temperature switch (sensor), malfunctioning idle air control (IAC) valve, vacuum and EGR leaks, inadequate fuel delivery or pressure (clogged fuel filter, injectors), and contaminated or

Why does my f150 shake at 70 mph?

Registered. Any rotational mass can be causing the issue. Tire, wheel, hub, brake rotor, axle, drive shaft and the like. Attempting to isolate the issue can sometimes be fun as the vibration source, and where the symptom is observed can be two different locations.

Why does my f150 idle rough?

The most common reasons a Ford F-150 has rough idle are a vacuum leak, an issue with the spark plugs, or a problem with the ignition coil.

Why does my truck shudder when I take off?

Shaking or vibrating may be caused by many different things such as faulty spark plugs, poor fuel pressure or misfires. Other things such as a faulty idle air control valve may cause the engine idle to drop below the normal idling RPM which may also cause the motor to shake or vibrate more than normal.

Hesitation Problem

10:00:43 p.m. on October 8, 2017 Date of joining: October 2017 Number of posts: 2 0 Likes have been received. 0 Likes 0 Dislikes 0 comments have been made. Problem of Hesitation I purchased a new 2011 Ford 6.7 diesel with a 7-year guarantee that expires in May of this year. I’ve put 30,000 miles on it so far. I’ve had it in the Kendall Ford Dealership in Eugene, Or multiple times for a bad hesitation problem that hasn’t been resolved to my satisfaction yet. The hesitancy is not always an issue; it does not occur all of the time.

This occurs when you accelerate from a stoplet while lifting your foot off the pedal, then accelerate again.

Is there anyone who has a solution?

10:00:57 p.m.

  1. Number of posts: 33,866 Take it to another dealer that has a diesel technician that is qualified.
  2. 10th of August, 2017 at 8:46 p.m Date of joining: March 2005 West Michigan is the location.
  3. Do you mean that the engine shuts down?
  4. If it’s the latter, I’m going to say that’s perfectly normal.
  5. It’s OK if you roll into the throttle, but doing it the way you propose produces the same effects for me.
  6. on September 10, 2017 Fiend in the Afternoon Date of joining: January 2008Location: Georgia Number of posts: 6,670Number of likes: 0 Check out my thread from a few months ago on the 6.7L stumbling.
  7. I’d been looking for it for a LONG time, and my text eventually tracked it down on the Ford Tech forum.

A minimum of eight times had to be performed on the truck’s computer after it had been installed.

January 7, 2018 at 9:48 p.m.

0 people like this.

Since purchasing this truck new in 2012, I’ve been experiencing this hesitating issue.

It appears to be more often before the engine has warmed up, although this is not always the case.

10:47 p.m.

6,670 total posts 0 people have expressed an interest.

The issue has resurfaced.

As soon as the vehicle begins to drive, the lock releases and then locks back up as normal, resulting in the stumbling and reluctance, as well as bucking and jerking.

on January 22, 2015.

on Tuesday, February 28th, 2008. vze2sgxa ExpeditionNavigator301-19-200607:24 PM 1997-2006 ExpeditionNavigator Jeeps: BufordUtahExcursion is the King of SUVs. The time is 3:12 a.m. on October 8, 2000.

Hesitation while accelerating – Ford F150 Forum

My issue is similar to yours; however, my OBD II does not display any codes and the CEL does not illuminate. I’m looking forward to seeing the finished product of your shop work. Please see the section below “. Message from the author ron511New Member Date of joining: 18 July 2009 Number of posts: 7 Photographs taken by myself Truck Customizations Posted at 5:15 a.m. on Saturday, July 18, 2009. Posted under General Discussion Tagged engine rough after disconnecting anti-theft module Quote Edit- After disabling an aftermarket anti-theft security system, the 4.6L engine in my 1997 Ford F-150 XLT begins to run rough.

  • I had parked the car, turned on the alarm, and walked away from it for approximately ten minutes.
  • While unlocking the door, an alarm went off but neither the remote nor the disarm button beneath the dash were able to be used to silence it.
  • I attempted all of the “repair” procedures outlined in the owner’s operating manuals, but to no avail.
  • I detached the wires from the module and linked them together with a wire of the same diameter.
  • I then proceeded to unhook all of the cables that were still connected to and from the anti-theft module.
  • Please accept my apologies for the delay in getting to this stage.
  • I’m thinking whether one of the circuits that I unplugged from the anti-theft modules may be the source of the problem.

I realize that taking it to a technician is the wisest course of action, but I would really appreciate any assistance you can offer.

Louis Metropolitan Area Truck: 1997 5.4L E4OD with a manual transmission Posted on Saturday, July 18, 2009 at 8:31 p.m.

Failures can sometimes be the result of pure chance.

Choose one of the driving conditions that most clearly displays the issue, and then continually stress the system until the CEL is illuminated.

Date of joining: 18 July 2009 Number of posts: 7 Photographs taken by myself Truck Customizations Posted on Saturday, July 18, 2009 at 11:31 p.m.

Delete – Edit – projectsho89 wrote: The disabling of the anti-theft system should not have any negative impact on your driving skills.

Plugs, wires, coils, injectors, and other such components can cause a low-grade misfire to be heard.

Choose one of the driving conditions that most clearly displays the issue, and then continually stress the system until the CEL is illuminated. Thank you so much for your assistance. It gives me peace of mind to know that my activities were not the source of the problem.”

4.6 hesitation problem solved

I was experiencing hesitation issues with my 2001 SCREW with 4.6. The truck would stutter when it came to acceleration shortly after starting up and traveling down the road. I could give it extra gas, but it would not recover as quickly as I would want. It appeared like no matter what I did, the car would not accelerate any farther. The duration of this would be around one second (I know it doesn’t seem like a long time, but it seems like an eternity when you’re trying to drive out of traffic and your truck won’t start).

  • For my truck, I’ve found a solution to the problem.
  • As part of the Exhaust Gas Recirculation System, this sensor detects the quantity of exhaust flow that returns to the engine from the exhaust.
  • After redesigning the sensor, it appears that this is a typical issue with Ford vehicles.
  • The new sensor is noticeably different from the previous one, and it will cost you around $31.00 to replace it.
  • It is connected to two tubes that are connected to the exhaust down pipe on both sides.
  • I suppose it came to the point where it was happening so frequently that a code was ultimately implemented.
  • After replacing the sensor, the problem with the hesitation was resolved.
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How To Diagnose & Repair an Engine Hesitation Problem

Automobile Repair Library, Auto Parts, Accessories, Tools, Manuals and Books, Car BLOG, Links and Index are some of the resources available on this website. Hesitation occurs when your engine misfires, stumbles, or loses power as you accelerate or step on the throttle. Copyright 2021 AA1Car The problem is frequently caused by an improperly enriched or lean air/fuel mixture, or by a weak ignition system that misfires when the engine is under load or when the air/fuel combination is lean, as described above.

  1. The computer should respond by increasing the amount of gasoline it uses.
  2. NOTE: Systems that employ a speed-density sensor are substantially less susceptible to vacuum leaks than systems that use an airflow sensor in an EFI system.
  3. NOTE: Vacuum leaks and air leaks downstream of the airflow sensor are extremely detrimental to the performance of airflow EFI systems.
  4. This results in a lean fuel mixture, which results in a misfire that causes hesitation and stumbling when accelerating or increasing the throttle.
  5. Due to the oxygen sensors in the exhaust, the computer can monitor the air/fuel mixture and make adjustments to the fuel trim as necessary to maintain the appropriate air/fuel ratio.

A vacuum leak will often cause the fuel trim to run rich as the computer attempts to adjust for the additional air being drawn into the engine by the leak.

Possible Causes of Engine Hesitation or Stumble:

*Fuel injectors that are dirty (cleaning the injectors often fixes this). Poor MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor; poor TPS (throttle position) sensor; poor or filthy MAF (mass airflow) sensor; low fuel pressure; and more (leaky fuel pressure regulator, weak fuel pump or low system voltage or charging voltage that causes the fuel pump to run slow) The following are examples of vacuum leaks: * Intake manifold; vacuum hoses; throttle body; EGR valve (fuel contaminated with water or too much alcohol) It’s possible that what appears to be a hesitation is actually an ignition misfire rather than a lean misfire.

The following are possible reasons of ignition misfire:* dirty or worn spark plugs * Defective plug wires * Defective ignition coil * Defective plug wires It is possible to identify a hesitation problem with the use of a scan tool that can display sensor data and fuel trim values.

DIAGNOSE ENGINE HESITATION PROBLEM

If the values are out of range or the sensor is not responding properly, a scan tool may be used to examine the engine computer for fault codes (including misfire codes), and a DVOM or scope may be used to test the sensor response. Performing further diagnostic tests may involve checking for vacuum leaks, examining and cleaning the EGR valve, monitoring fuel pressure and volume, removing and inspecting the spark plugs, and other procedures as determined by the manufacturer. You may check the fuel trim readings with a scan tool to discover whether the engine is running low by using the scan tool.

  • During part and full throttle, there is so much air entering the engine that even a little amount of additional air from a vacuum leak has a minor impact on performance.
  • Typically, the normal range is plus or minus eight.
  • A vacuum leak at idle may be confirmed if you rev the engine to 1500 to 2000 rpm and hold it there for a minute or two, after which the STFT value decreases back down to a more typical reading.
  • If you want to learn more about utilizing fuel trim to identify a low fuel condition, check out this article on Fuel Trim written by Wells Manufacturing.

DIAGNOSTIC TIPS FOR P0171 OR P0174 LEAN TROUBLE CODES

A code P0171 or P0174 (or both) indicates that the engine is operating at a low fuel pressure. This indicates that there is either too much air or not enough gasoline. The Short Term Fuel Trim (STFT) indicator on a scan tool may be used to determine whether or not the engine is running low by observing the STFT when the engine is at idle. If the STFT is larger than 10 to 12 (about), the engine is operating LEAN. In order to recheck the STFT value, increase the engine speed to 1600 to 2000 rpm and hold it for a minute or two.

  • The problem is most likely sensor-related (dirty or defective MAF sensor, or poor MAP sensor), or it is caused by low fuel pressure if the STFT valve continues to function normally.
  • The following factors can contribute to a lean fuel condition:* Low fuel pressure due to a weak pump or a leaking fuel pressure regulator (Use a fuel pressure gauge to monitor the fuel pressure while the engine is running.) * Fuel injectors that are dirty.
  • (Consider whether there are any vacuum leaks.) * The EGR valve is leaking.
  • (Confirm that the valve and hose connections are secure.) Mass Airflow Sensor that is dirty or not working properly (MAF).
  • Use only water to clean the sensor; do not touch the sensor wires.) *HINT: On many Fords, a P0171 and/or P0174 Lean Code may occasionally be shown as a result of a faulty Differential Pressure Sensor (DPFE).
  • Connecting the EGR sensor to the tube that travels from the exhaust manifold to the EGR valve is accomplished through the use of two hoses.

The DPFE sensor must be replaced in order to correct the problem. * TIP: To learn more about the other possible reasons of the P0171 and P0174 lean codes on the Ford Windstar, please visit this page.

REPAIRS

It is possible that the engine is running low if you receive codes P0171 or P0174 (or both). This indicates that there is either an excessive amount of air or an insufficient amount of gasoline in the vehicle. You may check that the engine is running low by looking at the Short Term Fuel Trim (STFT) on your scan tool while the engine is running at idle. It is considered LEAN if the STFT is larger than around 10 to 12. In order to recheck the STFT value, increase the engine speed to 1600 to 2000 rpm and hold it for a minute or two.

  1. Even if the STFT valve continues to operate normally, the problem is most likely due to low fuel pressure (due to a dirty or defective MAF sensor, or a faulty MAP sensor).
  2. The following factors can contribute to a lean fuel condition:* Low fuel pressure produced by a weak pump or a leaking fuel pressure regulator When the engine is running, check the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge.
  3. It’s worth experimenting with cleaning the injectors.
  4. (Make sure there aren’t any vacuum leaks.
  5. * Valve and hose connections should be checked before continuing.

(Another option is to use aerosol electronics cleaner to clean the MAF sensor wires or filament.) Do not use anything else to clean the sensor, and avoid touching the sensor wires.) P0171 and/or P0174 Lean Codes may occasionally arise on Ford vehicles as a result of a faulty Differential Pressure Sensor.

Located near the EGR valve on the engine, this sensor measures the flow of exhaust gas (EGR).

EGR flow is misinterpreted by the sensor, and as a result of the computer increasing EGR, the fuel mixture becomes leaner.

* To learn more about the other possible reasons of the P0171 and P0174 lean codes on the Ford Windstar, please visit this page.

Related Articles:

Sensors for the position of the throttle MAP sensors are used to measure the amount of water in the air. Air Flow in Large Volumes MAF Sensors are a type of sensor that detects motion. Airflow via a vane Sensors for Vacuum Assisted Flight (VAF) P0171P0174 Ford P0171P0174 Codes of Conduct for Lean What Is a Tune-Up in Today’s World? Troubleshooting Fuel Injectors Need to Be Cleaned Treatments for gasoline fuel Performance Issues Can Be Caused by Poor Gasoline Quality Update on Bad Gas 2006 Finding Identifying and Correcting Engine Vacuum Leaks Surge During Idle Time (causecure) How To Make A Diagnosis Troubleshooting Carburetor Issues Why it is still necessary to replace spark plugs Spark Plug Wires are a type of wire that is used to ignite a spark plug.

Examining the Ignition Misfires Spark Plugs are used to ignite a fire.

Performance of the Ignition System More Carley Automotive Technical Articles may be found by clicking here. Make sure to check out our other websites as well: You Can Do Your Own Auto Repair CarleySoftwareOBD2HELP.com Random-Misfire.com Help using the Scan Tool TROUBLE-CODES.com

Ford F-150 Jerking/Hesitation: causes and solutions

Ford F-150 with 168000 kilometers from 2004. When I start it and speed, it seems heavy, almost as if it’s choking on something. After that, it gradually gains speed. Is there anyone who knows what it may be?

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Herky jerky transmission?

Ford F-150 Extended Cab, 2004 model, with 149,000 miles. The truck drives fine until I increase the speed, then I allow it to slow down a little before attempting to return to the previous speed. It starts to run sluggishly, with a clunking sound, which is extremely frightening. Help! What can/should I do in this situation?

Feels like A Shudder Or Skip but No Ck Engine Light

Ford F-150 2001 Ford F-150 5.4 Triton XLt221000 miles 2001 Ford F-150 5.4 Triton XLt221000 miles Although it appears to skip, it has the sensation of a shudder. I’ve replaced the plugs, one coil, the fuel filter, the transmission, and the differential speed sensors. The gas cap had a p0500 code as well as an emission code.

Shutters and jerks

The 2011 Ford F-150 Ecoboost has 90038 kilometers on the clock. The shuttering and jerking of my vehicle occurs whether I am traveling at any speed, and when I apply the brakes, the jerking becomes even more severe at times. The shuttering and jerking occur sometimes, but it appears to be becoming worse lately.

It has no power it’s like it’s chocking or hesitati ng

Ford F-150 1994, 300 cubic inch, six-cylinder, five-speed, 250000 miles Something is holding it back or slowing it down, so I pull off the gas and it smooths out just a tiny bit, then I push the throttle and it repeats it all over again. The vehicle’s gas economy is really poor.

Jerks

Ford F-150 with 154000 kilometers from 2004. When I go faster than 40 mph, my vehicle shakes. The fuel pump and spark plugs have been replaced, and the problem has been resolved for a week. However, the jerking has not returned. What could it possibly be?

Hesitates when turning

10000 miles on a Ford F-150 pickup from 2013. Truck hesitates while turning, almost as if it wants to stall – on-board computer indicates that gas and break have been used 29 times, and the driver is driving double-footed – I do not drive double-footed and am now terrified of the truck since it has made me nervous. I am a girl, and after being sacked, I wish I had never purchased a Ford! mimi from the United States of America 6 years ago today MI

Noise and slight jerky wipers

Ford F-150 XL 4.2L with an 8-foot bed and 2WD with 72,500 miles. The wipers are creating noise in the motor/linkage region, and the wipers are jerky to a little degree. I was wondering if anybody else had experienced this issue and if so, what may have caused it and how to resolve it. Thanks, Redwood

Shuddering and pulling to the right.

81 Ford F150 ranger V8 302 100000 miles 1981 Ford F150 ranger V8 302 100000 miles Recent maintenance included oil, filter, valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, wiring, and fuel filter replacement. It began to tremble and pull strongly to the right as soon as I started filling it with gas. There are no apparent indicators of damage to the bushings or control arms on this vehicle.

I’m dripping fluid all over the place. What should I be searching for next, beneath it, going down the transmission lines, is not immediately clear. I’m going to replace the gearbox fluid, filter, and gasket, but what else should I be checking?

Shuddering

5.465000 kilometers on a Ford F-150 fx4 from 2005. On the freeway’s upward incline, the vehicle begins to shutter when it accelerates. I noticed it at approximately 80 miles per hour power loss and had to back off the accelerator and slow down.

Shudder in rear

269800 miles on a 2006 Ford F-150 Fx4 5.4 automatic. On takeoff, the 2006 Ford FX4 has a tremor in the rear end that only appears to occur sometimes. Miles traveled from the United States 2 years have passed since MI

Truck will not startSolved

Ford F-150 4×4 5.0 187000 miles, 1991 model. My truck began hesitating and running rough as I drove down the road. I tried giving it more gas, but it just kept falling over. I barely made it back to my house, traveling at only about 7 miles per hour. I can try to start it now, but I have to hold the gas pedal to the floor or it will barely idle or continue running very rough. The fuel pressure and timing have been tested; there is excellent spark on all of my wires; I am at a loss as to what else it might be; I have changed the plugs and the fuel filter; please advise.

Acceleration loss under load

Ford F-150 2005 F150 5.4 3valve with 100000 miles on the clock Has plenty of power when the overdrive is turned off, but hesitates and bogs down when the overdrive is turned on, and acts slow while cruising at low speeds when the overdrive is turned on. When you stomp on the gas pedal halfway to the floor or more, the car begins to Boggs down before accelerating rapidly again. Previously, I had changed all eight coils and all eight spark plugs as well as the fuel filter, both evap valves, and the fuel pump control module.

Buck, who hails from the United States 6 years agoBU BU BU BU BU

Truck failure

Ford F-150 with 128 miles on the odometer in 2008. I thought everything was good, but the next day when I went to use it, I saw that the truck was heavy and didn’t have the typical acceleration. I recognized that it didn’t have the power to drive uphill, and it proceeded sluggishly, and when the revolutions got up, it began to tremble. When I ran the scanner, the errors P0755, P1747, and P0743 were shown. I was told that it was possible that the problem was with the gas pump, but the failure remains.

pokeyfrom the United States of America 6 years ago today PO

Wrench light

Ford F-150 2005 triton xlt 5.4 V8 with 114000 miles on it This light turned on at the same time as my truck began to drive quite erratically. When I removed my foot off the accelerator pedal, the vehicle would “jerk” forward. I drove it 2 hours home in this condition, but it has been good since then (only been 4 days). If you’re wondering what’s wrong, you may learn online that it’s most likely the throttle body.

My pick up does not accelerate

Ford F-150 has 140000 kilometers and was manufactured in 1998. Initial jerking occurred when driving; when starting, gold y vibrates briefly before returning to normal. While driving, it appeared to be losing power, as if it were choking a little, but now it is becoming worse. When I accelerate, it chokes and makes a popping sound as if it’s about to explode; when I let off, it continues to drive; if I accelerate again, it does the same thing but doesn’t stall. Even if I switch the computer off for 5 seconds, it works for 10 minutes before failing again.

I’ve already had this problem for a year, and they haven’t been able to resolve it; yesterday, I scanned it and discovered an air sensor mistake, which was fixed by changing the sensor. Neil from the United States of America 6 years ago today NE

Stalls while driving

Ford F-150 with 149,200 miles from 1994. When I’m driving, my vehicle jerks and stalls, which generally happens when I increase the speed. Gas filter, catalytic converter, fuel regulator, spark plugs and wiring have all been replaced, and the coils have been replaced as well. Despite the fact that the jerking problem is not as severe as it used to be, the car continues to stall. I’m in desperate need of assistance. the month of june from the United States 7 years ago today JU

Major loss of power, vehicle will not slow when no foot on pedal

Ford F-150 2011 with a 3.5-liter EcoBoost engine and 261,000 kilometers. When traveling on a steady motorway, the waste gate opens and closes intermittently. A abrupt acceleration occurred while on the onramp, which was unexpected. When the accelerator pedal was depressed, the vehicle did not slow down. At idling, the engine shudders and the tachometer fluctuates. When not in use, it ranges from 500 to 1200 RPM. When the engine is turned off, the powertrain warning wrench appears on the dashboard.

Soud of metal bat hitting metal pole

Ford F-150, model year 2000, with a 4.6-liter V8 and 217230 kilometers. I had my tranny changed since it would only start up if I left it run for 1/2 hour or took the cans down and it would start without any ticking or motor sounds. I had to move a truck in my yard about 10 feet and got stuck in mud. I replaced the 4×4 fuse and it worked again. I pulled into a parking spot and put it in park to let it run for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, the truck made three knock sounds like a metal bat hitting a flag pole, then it made a sound like it was trying to start and the hood light came on.

Please, someone assist me.

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Cutting off

The 2000 Ford F-150 has 217230 miles on the 4.6-liter V8 engine. It would only start once I let it run for half an hour or took the cans down and it would start without any ticking or engine sounds. I had to move a truck in my yard about 10 feet and got stuck in mud. I replaced the 4×4 fuse and it worked again. I pulled into a parking spot and put it in park to let it run for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, the truck made three knock sounds like a metal bat hitting a flag pole, then it made a sound like it was trying to start and the hood light came on.

We need your assistance!

Od light flashing and transmission fault

The 2006 Ford F150 XL, which has 179,000 kilometers on it, is an excellent choice. The next day when I got in, the OD light was not flashing and there was no transmission fault code, but when my truck got to run-in temperature, it started acting strange and the OD light started flashing again, this time with transmission fault code, and when I pushed the gas, it would hesitate. When I got back in the next day, the OD light was not flashing and there was no transmission fault code, but when my truck got to run-in temperature, it started acting strange and the transmission fault code

Transmission

The 2006 Ford F150 XL, which has 169,000 kilometers on it, is an excellent choice. The next day when I got in, the OD light was not flashing and there was no transmission fault code, but when my truck got to run-in temperature, it started acting strange and the OD light started flashing again, this time with transmission fault code, and when I pushed the gas, it would hesitate.

When I got back in the next day, the OD light was not flashing and there was no transmission fault code, but when my truck got to run-in temperature, it started acting strange again.

5.4 hesitation fix

On July 19, 2017, at 7:01 p.m., The Junior Member is the thread starter. Date of joining: July 2017 Number of posts: 5 0 Likes have been received. 0 Likes 0 Dislikes 0 comments have been made. 5.4 correction of hesitancy Is it possible to draw any inferences from the hesitation difficulties that have plagued the 5.4 motor? Trying to assist my sister in resolving her problem, however she does not have the financial means to change random components in an attempt to fix it. As soon as she exceeds 40 miles per hour, the vehicle begins to hesitate.

  1. Many difficulties that seem similar have been reported on a variety of websites, but only a number of them had solutions that worked, and they weren’t the same solution.
  2. Perhaps a more prevalent or most common problem?
  3. Thanks!
  4. 4,709 total posts It will be necessary to know how many miles have been put on the truck.
  5. Is it true that the plugs were made with Motorcraft components?
  6. It’s most likely in need of a coil or two, or maybe a plug replacement.
  7. They have a tendency to rot out, to absorb moisture, and to generate a variety of difficulties.

tllbuffout Location: Sierra Foothills, California, United States Joined: Feb 2016 639 total posts Alternatively, boots and springs may suffice.

On July 19, 2017, at 10:03 p.m., 5th generation 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat Date of joining: October 2009 Florida is the location.

The important thing to remember here is mileage and when to maintain.

Ideally, plugs should be torqued in the range of 25 to 28 foot pounds.

Always begin by ensuring that the spark circuit is in good working order, no matter what.

This appears to be an appropriate place to begin.

Let’s see what happens if we replace all of the plugs all at once.

Once again, thank you.

Inaugural Junior MemberThread StarterJoined on July 1, 2017 Posts: 5Likes: 0Received 0 Likeson0 Posts: 5Likes: 0Received 0 Likeson0 Posts: 5 It continues to accelerate, but with a clunk, and then it comes to a complete halt and begins again.

Sh!tllbuffout Date of joining: February 2016 Sierra Foothills, California is the location.

Is there any movement in the vehicle when this is going on?

My last one was done a couple of months ago with 83k and just one of them broke.

It appears to be expensive to do plugs ($75, $50 for a secondhand lisle tool, and the aforementioned boots), but it is far less expensive than having a shop do it.

ModeratorJoined on March 15, 2015 Arlen, Texas is the location.

First and foremost, I would replace all of the plugs with Motorcraft plugs.

They are reasonably priced.

I wouldn’t recommend replacing any coils until you’ve completed those tasks.

OEM coils are quite reliable. My misfires were resolved as a result of this. 20th of July, 12:02 p.m. The Junior Member is the thread starter. Date of joining: July 2017 Number of posts: 5 0 Likes have been received. son 0 comments have been made. Thank you very much for the information!

Strange bog/hesitation upon acceleration

05-20-2011 Trader: ModeratorThread StarterTrading: (1) Date of joining: December 2010 Florida is the location. Number of posts: 2,342 When you accelerate, there is a strange bog/hesitation. Some weeks ago, I had to walk through roughly 2-3 feet of mud on my way to the mailbox. I was in and out of it in a matter of minutes and only went through it twice total. After the second trip around, I went on the highway and came to a stop at a traffic signal. The truck’s idle became harsh, and the engine speed dropped to 500 rpms.

  1. As time went on, the truck’s idle became more consistent, but it began to hesitate as I began to accelerate from a standstill.
  2. It “kicks in” and starts working after a few seconds.
  3. It only becomes problematic when the weather begins to warm up.
  4. As a result, I installed a new TPS.
  5. Anyone have any thoughts as to what it may possibly be?
  6. Because it works perfectly while it is cold, it appears to me that there is a vacuum leak that opens up as the engine is heated.
  7. I’m just searching for any new ideas that could help me figure out what the problem is.

hesitation when accelerating from stop

In other words, we have a 2006 freestyle sel awd on our hands. It has a mileage of 120xxx miles. When my wife starts the car from a standstill, the automobile does not respond when the accelerator pedal is pressed. Then, after a split second, it begins to move. What is the source of the hesitation? Before I add anything more, let me state that I am not a specialist in this area, but have you tried checking the CVT ATF level? Is the level of CVT fluid in your vehicle correct? An earlier post on this forum mentioned that a similar problem might be remedied by re-adding CVT fluid to the manufacturer’s suggested amount.

Your H.P.

Fluid change intervals are something I completely agree with Jack Watts’s opinion on.

You might conduct a search on the forum for postings that discuss CVT Service methods as well as checking the CVT ATF level.

Please be aware that the CVT ATF differs significantly from the typical automatic transmission fluid. Oh no, “Voodoo Bob of the Dead Poets Society” has returned, and he’s much more deranged than before.

Hard start and hesitation problem

Your problem, I suppose, is with the Electronic Throttle Control system or its components. There are three components. Assembly for the Throttle Control Pedal with two sensors. PCM. Sensor for the position of the throttle body/throttle plate You have taken the place of two of them. I’m guessing that when you swapped the pedals, both sensors were included in the change as one assembly. PCM is in charge of supplying the reference voltage. Plausibility checks are performed by the PCM program between the driver’s input, as indicated by pedal position, and the throttle plate position sensor.

The two sensors on the pedal assembly are redundant systems that also perform plausibility checks between each other; if any of these sensors fails, the system will revert to failure mode, which is again undesirable.

It is possible to have a systemic problem without necessarily having an individual component.

It is dependent on whether or not emmissions are altered.

I’m going to assume that you don’t have any of them because you didn’t mention you did.

I would suggest that you do not have a single component that has failed in a hard and fast manner.

Have you (or they) examined the voltage response and level of the pedal in its current position?

If the answer is yes and everything appears to be OK, I would suspect that you have an intermittent problem somewhere in the wire harness.

Due of its location in the most hazardous environment, it is susceptible to exposure and physical harm, such as being hit or damaged.

It is also possible that the wiring and connections on the pedal assembly were destroyed quite readily.

Those who are elderly.

This would be referred to as “Firmware.” This was changed to something else.

However, I think that in the case of your truck, this is built into the operating system software/program.

I would check the voltages and do a full analysis of the wire harness and connectors, if necessary. Check for rust on the pins. If at all feasible, replace out the PCM in the worst-case scenario. This is only my opinion based on the information you have supplied. Wishing you the best of luck!

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