Hard start when cold Ford? (Correct answer)

Most common cause of hard start when cold Let the vehicle cool until the engine is cold. Then perform a cold start test. If you encounter the same hard start when cold and the FLEX FUEL DATA reading is back up to 70% or more, your next step is to check fuel pressure.

  • If you have a Ford vehicle and find that has a hard start when cold condition, here are the common things to check. The issue appears as an engine that will crank but has a hard time firing up. Once it does start, it doesn’t run well. It may run extremely rich, which you will notice with rough idle and poor MPG.

What causes hard starting engine when cold?

Cold batteries simply don’t produce the same amount of power as warm batteries, and this effect can lead to starting issues. When it’s cold, engine oil becomes thicker and doesn’t flow around the engine as well. If the battery is already low on power, this can result in a non-starter.

What would cause a Ford truck not to start?

If the battery alternator and the charging system check out, another reason would be a failing starter, the internal windings could be binding. There could also be an issue with the fuel delivery system, a bad fuel pump clogged filter or fuel injection issue.

What is a cold start engine?

When your car’s engine is colder than its normal operating temperature and you start it, that’s a cold start. That means that every time you start your car after it sits for a long period of time, you are having a significant impact on the air quality.

How does a cold start work?

To start with, a car’s ECU decides that the engine has to idle higher when the engine is cold to stop it from stalling. This is programmed into the ECU via a start-up map, which allows a richer air/fuel mixture to enter the cylinders.

Can a bad starter cause hard starting?

Bad Starter Bad starter is one of the reasons causing car having trouble starting that you cannot avoid. At one time or another, the starter motors will wear out and suffer a breakdown.

How do I know if my starter is bad on my f150?

Symptoms of a Bad Starter on a Ford Truck

  1. Click. When the ignition key is turned to the start position and nothing occurs except a rather loud and heavy-sounding click noise, the starter may be seized up.
  2. Motor Without Engine. The gear in the nose of a starter is known as a bendix.
  3. Grind Aftershock.
  4. Lock Up.

How do you know if your starter bad?

Something sounds off. One of the symptoms of a bad starter is a clicking noise when you turn the key or push the start button. However, a starter can die without making any sound at all, or it may announce its impending death with whirring and grinding noise—so listen up!

Why is my Ford f150 not turning over?

The most common reasons a Ford F-150 won’t start are a dead battery, an alternator problem, or failed starter.

Is it bad to start car in cold?

Warming Up Modern Day Vehicles That means the engine should be ready to go as soon as it begins running. So by idling your car, you’re just releasing extra gas into your engine without getting any use out of it. So if you consistently get started too soon in the cold, you could eventually end up harming your engine.

What happens if engine runs too cold?

If you run your engine cold all the time, you’ll most likely experience increased fuel consumption across the board. Additionally, you’ll find higher amounts of carbon buildup at various parts of the engine. The most damaging effect of feeding a fuel-rich mixture to the engine is excess fuel reaching the exhaust.

How cold is too cold to start your car?

If your car gets extremely cold, the battery could freeze. Now, the good news is that it must get extremely cold before that happens. Some experts suggest as cold as negative 76 degrees. That said, even at 32 degrees, your battery can start having problems.

Why do cars rev higher when cold?

Gasoline vaporizes much more easily in warmer temperatures to get that spark. In colder temperatures, fuel is more likely to get bogged down and thicken. Therefore, the vehicle overcompensates for this by producing a higher RPM initially to move gasoline more quickly.

What causes rough idle when cold?

While there are many potential causes for shaky cold-weather performance, two of the most common are failing engine temperature sensors and bad thermostats. In both cases, the underlying reason for a rough idle is an overly rich air to fuel mixture.

hard start when cold

15th of May, 7:54 a.m., 2011 GuruThread Starter is a tool for posting in forums. Date of joining: March 2009 Long Island is the location. 1,010 total posts 0 Likes have been received. 0 Likes0 Comments0 Posts When it is chilly, it is difficult to get going. When my truck has been sitting for a few hours, it might be difficult to get it started. It will crank for around 10 seconds before starting. After that, it normally runs without a hitch. This morning, on the other hand, it came close to not starting at all.

By turning the ignition key on and off several times, I discovered that it would enable the truck to ignite a few times if I cycled the fuel pump.

What might this be, exactly?

The back tank and pump are both brand new, and both tanks behave in the same way, therefore I don’t believe it is one of the tank pumps at fault.

Fortunately, I was directly in front of my mechanic when the truck stopped for the second time shortly after leaving my house, so I coasted into his shop and left it there for him to fix.

The truck has arrived.

Hard starting problem when cold

On the 15th of October, at 07:54, GuruThread Starter is a tool for posting on the internet. March 2009 is the date of joining. Long Island is the location of the event. 1 010 total comments Receipts: 0 Likes There are no likes or comments on any of the posts. When it is chilly, it is difficult to get started. Occasionally, after my truck has been sitting for a few hours, it may have difficulty starting. When it starts, it will crank for around 10 seconds before turning on. When you do this, it typically works perfectly.

  1. For approximately 15 minutes, I cranked it up and raced around to the hood, looking for signs that something was amiss with it.
  2. The more I did it, the more it started to work.
  3. Presumably, there is a problem with the gasoline supply?
  4. – It is the first time you’ve heard about fpr Fortunately, I was directly in front of my mechanic when the truck stopped for the second time shortly after leaving my house, so I coasted into his shop and left it there for him to repair.
  5. Insignia has been placed on the vehicle

Ford Fiesta: Won’t Start When Cold → Diagnosis

Extreme weather conditions may make driving your Ford Fiesta extremely challenging. If there is a problem, it will usually become apparent when things are at their worst. When the weather is exceedingly hot. The cooling system is put to the test in this situation. When it is chilly outside in the winter, the vehicle will not start. There are a variety of factors that might contribute to this, but the most common is that your Fiesta’s battery is unable to cope with the demands of starting the car when it is cold.

It’s possible that the chilly weather is preventing your Fiesta from getting started. However, you don’t want to discount out the possibility that it’s just not starting because it’s chilly. If this appears to be a problem for you, visit Ford Fiesta Not Starting for more information.

Ford Fiesta:Won’t Start Cold – Causes

The battery is by far and away the most common cause for your Fiesta not to start when it’s chilly outside. Cranking amps and cold cranking amps are two different types of ratings for batteries. Cold cranking amps are a measure of a battery’s ability to start and turn the engine over when the battery is completely charged. The capacity of a battery decreases through time and use. As a result, it may have sufficient cranking capacity to start the car while it is warm, but when it is cold, it simply does not have the capacity to turn the engine over.

2. Wrong Battery

If you purchased a battery during a period of warm weather and your Fiesta won’t start after less than a year, it’s possible that you got a battery that lacks the cold cranking capability that your vehicle need to begin operating properly. This is frequently the case when you have a six-cylinder vehicle and receive a battery designed for a four-cylinder vehicle. The capacity to turn over a larger motor when it is really cold is not quite sufficient for this application. The most common cause for your Fiesta not to start in cold weather is a drained or dead battery.

3. Wrong Oil Viscosity

If you use a thicker oil in your Fiesta during the warmer months, it will be less likely to prevent it from starting. However, it will make itself known throughout the winter. The larger molecules in the thicker oil might prevent the engine from spinning over quickly enough to start the vehicle. For example, you could have purchased 10W-30 when the manufacturer had specified 5W-30 instead.

4. Water in Fuel Line

When the temperature of the surrounding environment changes, condensation can form in the gas tank. If the moisture makes its way into the fuel line of your Ford Fiesta, it might cause the engine to become unable to turn over due to freezing. This is a distinct possibility if the engine is starting quickly and it appears that the battery is in good condition.

See also:  Why is my airbag light on? (Solved)

How to Start Your Fiesta in the Cold

Here are some tried and true methods for starting your automobile while it’s freezing outside. You may use them to troubleshoot a car that you may be sitting in right now, and they are provided in the sequence that will assist you get moving as soon as possible. They are not presented in any particular order. A battery-related problem will be the most common, and that is what we are concentrating our efforts on right now.

1. Turn on All of the Accessories and Lights

Considering that the battery isn’t performing well to begin with, this may appear to be paradoxical. Essentially, what you’re attempting to do is give your Fiesta’s battery a brief period of “waking up.” As soon as you’ve completed this step, turn the key to the “on” position, but do not begin driving for at least 10 seconds. This allows the fuel pump plenty of time to prime the injectors before starting the vehicle. Now, go ahead and try turning the engine over to see if it will start on its own.

2. Warm the Battery

The battery can be removed from the vehicle if you are at home and are not in a hurry to get anywhere.

This will allow it to heat up to a temperature that will cause the electrons in it to begin to move. Allow it to sit for a few hours indoors. This can be really beneficial in getting the automobile to crank over. Handling the battery should be done with caution.

3. Jump Start

Jumping the Fiesta will get it back on the road in no time at all. Jump starting is the process of using the electricity from another car’s battery and alternator to charge your battery and assist you in getting your vehicle started straight away. Keep the engine from cooling down completely, since it will most likely not start on its own until the weather outdoors becomes warm enough.

4. Replace the Battery

You may take the battery to a nearby parts store and have it tested there as well. It would be good to do so before completely replacing it. For your specific Fiesta’s engine and model year, you should look up the cold cranking requirement for that vehicle. You want a battery that is capable of withstanding at the very least what the manufacturer suggests. Cold-cranking amplifiers are a commonplace. In order to achieve this requirement, a battery must spin for 30 seconds at 0° with a minimum voltage.

Conclusion:Fiesta Won’t Start in the Cold

Any of the battery-related concerns listed above might be the cause of your Ford Fiesta’s inability to start, which indicates that the battery should be replaced. If the weather heats up again outside, you may be able to get a few more decent starts out of it, but its time is running short.

HARD TO START ON COLD MORNINGS

Please consider using this link to support FordF150.net whenever you purchase at Amazon.com (for anything). Looking for subjects that have recently been discussed? member485 brickdog2000 is a senior member with 485 posts. Joined: Tuesday, January 2, 2007 at 5:25 p.m. F-150 XLT Super Crew 4X4 (2001 model year) Havelock, North Carolina is the location. Modifications I’ve made to my truck Contact:

HARD TO START ON COLD MORNINGS

Here in Missouri, the weather has been very chilly lately. When I get up in the morning, my truck has an issue with the transmission. Whenever I initially get out of bed in the morning to start my vehicle, it behaves and sounds like it is going to start right away. However, as soon as I release the truck key to disengage the starter, the truck will expire after a few of seconds of being released from the key ring. Sometimes all it takes is another turn of the key to get it going again, but recently it’s been taking two or three turns to get her going.

  1. MatherHardcore Ford Truck Fanatic has posted a total of 2076 times.
  2. Salt Lake City is the location.
  3. How chilly is it outside?
  4. Franklin, Tennessee is the location of this event.
  5. I brought it to the shop, and they determined that a fuel injector was jammed open and had fouled a plug, which explained why it was starting twice and three times, and why I could smell gas.
  6. F-150 XLT Super Crew 4X4 (2001 model year) Havelock, North Carolina is the location.
  7. How chilly is it outside?

It’s been in the single digits for quite some time.

I’ll be replacing all of the fluids, wiring, and plugs in the vehicle.

brickdog2000 Posts by Senior Members: 485 Joined: Tuesday, January 2, 2007 at 5:25 p.m.

Modifications to my truck Contact: Postbybrickdog2000 When this happened with my truck not long ago (it was likewise chilly), the only difference was that I could smell raw petrol.

I don’t detect any odors of raw gas, at least not right away.

silverbullet46383 Posts by regular members: 113 Joined: Tuesday, March 28th, 2006 at 9:28 p.m.

Unfortunately for us, the temperature outside is already dangerously near to zero, and she will not only roll over but will also instantly cease running.

projectsho89 Hardcore Ford truck enthusiast with 4198 posts.

You may have sludged up your IAC, which is quite typical for all Ford engines, if you see an improvement in your startability and initial engine functioning after doing so.

Stevebrickdog2000 is a Senior Member with 485 posts.

F-150 XLT Super Crew 4X4 (2001 model year) Havelock, North Carolina is the location.

So let us assume this is a fuel injector.

My experience with gasoline injectors has been limited, but I am prepared to experiment if it means saving money.

Joined: Tuesday, January 2, 2007 at 5:25 p.m.

Modifications to my truck Contact: Postbybrickdog2000 projectsho89 wrote: While starting, softly press the pedal and hold it for the duration of the run.

Upon concluding that this is the source of the problem, you may attempt cleaning the valve, but be prepared to replace it because any advantages from cleaning it are frequently just temporary.

Then there’s the matter of what exactly is the IAC and how can I clean it! Also, where exactly is it located? Mexico is represented by Ron Mexico. Posts by Regular Members: 83 Posted on: Monday, February 5, 2007 at 4:04 p.m. Location:St.Louis Modifications I’ve made to my truck

cold starts

Mexico» PostbyRon Mexico» I’m going to be a resident of Missouri. In addition, it is quite chilly in the mornings. Your problem appears to be connected to gasoline. Mine has no trouble remaining started, although it is a little sluggish to get going. Wishing you the best of luck. PAZTruk Posts by Senior Members: 762 Date of joining:Thu Aug 26, 2004 1:59 p.m. Location:San Diego, California, CAM y Truck Customizations PostbyPAZTruk» When starting, check the IAC; if you hit the gas pedal while starting, the vehicle will most likely start but will not idle properly.

Engine: 2004 Ford FX4 with a 5.4-liter displacement Location:Franklin,Va.

not the one for the computer, but the one for the gauge I had issues with my old 95 with the 302 engine starting difficultly from a cold start, and that was the source of the problem.

F-150 XLT Super Crew 4X4 (2001 model year) Havelock, North Carolina is the location.

Re: cold starts

Postbybrickdog2000»Ron Mexico wrote: I’m going to be a resident of Missouri. In addition, it is quite chilly in the mornings. Your problem appears to be connected to gasoline. Mine has no trouble remaining started, although it is a little sluggish to get going. Wishing you the best of luck. I’m not sure what you mean by sluggish. member485 brickdog2000 is a senior member with 485 posts. Joined: Tuesday, January 2, 2007 at 5:25 p.m. F-150 XLT Super Crew 4X4 (2001 model year) Havelock, North Carolina is the location.

  • What exactly is the IAC, and why am I asking this question?
  • I’m going to guess it’s some form of computer system.
  • is the subject of my next query.
  • Joined: Tuesday, January 2, 2007 at 5:25 p.m.
  • Modifications to my truck Contact: Postbybrickdog2000 yardbird246 wrote: Make sure your temperature coolant sensor is working properly.
  • Well, I’ve observed that all of my gauges are in perfect working order.
  • Do you believe this might be the case?

MatherHardcore Ford Truck Fanatic has posted a total of 2076 times.

Salt Lake City is the location.

That is very natural.

Location:St.Louis Posted byRon Mexico in My Truck Mods It spins slowly at first, but she eventually catches on.

Hey everyone, come and see how great I look,”” I mean very fantastic,”” mmm, I look wonderful,”” I mean really good,”” brickdog2000 Posts by Senior Members: 485 Joined: Tuesday, January 2, 2007 at 5:25 p.m.

Modifications to my truck Contact: Postbybrickdog2000 I discovered a discussion from Grinomyte that described how to clear the IAC.

Thank you so much for everything.

My Truck ModificationsPosted byJustinH» In the chilly weather, what type of motor oil do you use on your vehicle?

Just give it a bit more juice.

member485 brickdog2000 is a senior member with 485 posts.

F-150 XLT Super Crew 4X4 (2001 model year) Havelock, North Carolina is the location.

I’ve discovered that if I give it a small amount of gas, she’ll be OK.

Occasionally, I wish she would just stay in the kitchen. I mean no disrespect to any of the ladies out there. I’m aware that some women are knowledgeable about their automobiles, but others (such as my wife) believe they are more knowledgeable than a mechanic when they aren’t.

Who is online

The following was written by Postbybrickdog2000»Ron Mexico: “I’m going to reside in Missouri.” in the mornings, it’s bone-chillingly chilly Fuel seems to be the source of your problem. Mine doesn’t have a difficulty keeping started, only with getting started in the first instance. All the best to you! When you say “sluggish,” what exactly do you mean? member485 brickdog2000 is a senior member who has contributed 485 posts. I joined at 5:25 p.m. on January 2, 2007. F-150 XLT Super Crew 4WD (2001 model) Havelock, North Carolina is the setting for this story.

  1. If I may ask, what exactly is the IAC?
  2. Obviously, it’s some form of computer system.
  3. I’ll ask you a question right after this one: member485 brickdog2000 is a senior member who has contributed 485 posts.
  4. on January 2, 2007.
  5. » Contact: Postbybrickdog2000» My Truck Mods yardbird246 wrote: Make sure your temperature coolant sensor is functioning properly.
  6. In any case, I’ve observed that all of my gauges are in perfect working order now.
  7. Think this may be the case?
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Though I understand that the sensor for the gauge is not what you’re referring to, my electrical expertise has shown me that everything eventually connects to one another.

Salt Lake City, Utah is the location.

It takes many minutes for my gauge to start moving after it has been left on cold for several minutes.

The following are the most recent posts by Ron Mexico (membership status: regular).

on Monday, February 5, 2007.

She’s a MONSTER, no doubt about it.

on January 2, 2007.

» Contact: Postbybrickdog2000» My Truck Mods On Grinomyte’s forum, there was a topic about how to clean the IAC.

We appreciate all you’ve done for us!

I joined at 4:02 p.m.

During the colder months, what type of motor oil do you use?

Add some more gas and you’re good to go!

member485 brickdog2000 is a senior member who has contributed 485 posts.

on January 2, 2007.

» Contact: Postbybrickdog2000» My Truck Mods I’m using 5W30 motor oil in my vehicle.

To my wife’s surprise, my truck does not appear to have disappeared.

I wish she would simply stay in the kitchen more often than not. Without intending to offend any of the females reading this, I’m aware that some women are well-versed in their automobiles, while others (such as my wife) believe they are more knowledgeable than a technician when they aren’t.

Hard Start when cold 2.5L

Even though the ECT sensor is not expensive to repair, a high cold idle and a moderate decline during warm-up would signal to me that it is functioning properly when this occurs. However, this might be sporadic at certain temperatures. Disconnect one coil pack and start the engine while it is still warm, making sure there aren’t any misfires. Whether one or more spark plugs are not working, you will know if there is a misfire if you plug in that coil pack and disconnect the other one. Because both spark plugs fire at the same time, 1995 and up 2.3l/2.5l engines are possible.

  • When was the last time spark plugs were changed, and what gap was used?
  • When it comes to fuel pressure, you can try turning the key on and off three times before attempting to start the engine to see if it helps.
  • You should have a three-port gasoline filter installed.
  • With the key off, a check valve or an FPR can cause a loss of pressure, but I would anticipate a decrease to zero psi.

Ford F-150 Questions – Hard start when block is cold

Jlh71 posed the question. Wednesday, January 3, 2017 at 01:31 p.m. the 1997 Ford F-150 Lariat SB’s specifications MaintenanceRepair is the type of question. When the block is cold, it will not start, but it will almost completely drain the battery before it will start. Once it has started, it will start right up; however, if I allow it to sit until the block is completely cold, it will not start immediately.

1 Answer

F O R provided an answer 5 years ago. It is possible that you may need to tune up the engine. If you reside in a very cold climate, you may want to consider installing a block heater and having your battery load checked. When starting from a chilly position, a battery warmer might be quite beneficial.

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  • But, if I allow it to rest until the block is cold, this is when it will not start. 1997 Ford F-150 Lariat SB-MaintenanceRepair
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My 1986 F150 5.0 EFI is hard to start when cold and bucks and jumps when warm, why?3 Answers

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ENGINE NO START WHEN COLD.1 Answer

  • It is impossible to get the engine to start while the engine is cold unless you spray the whole intake system with water. Once the engine has warmed up, it will start and run normally, but once it has warmed up again, it will start and run normally. Maintenance and repair on a 1995 Ford F-150 XLT LB

Clicking noise when cold weather start attempting 4 Answers

  • I put in the block heater and after 20 miles it starts and cranks OK. When the temperature gets to 10 below or lower, it will not start or crank. It will click once and that’s it. The radio, lights, and everything else appears to be getting power, but there is no crank. Maintenance and repair for a 2004 Ford F-150 XLT SuperCrew 4WD

F150 hard to start when engine is warm2 Answers

  • When the truck is cold, it starts right up, but when it is warm, it takes around 20 seconds to get going. 300-Series Engine
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Ford Courier hard to start when cold.

At 6:37 p.m. on September 10, 2015, 838840 Is there an engine light on in your vehicle when it is running? If this is the case, it would be wise to obtain some codes and see if we can narrow down our problem! Is your temperature gauge in proper working order? My best assumption is that it has something to do with a sensor that measures temperature, such as a coolant temperature sensor or an air intake temperature sensor, because it appears to be temperature related because it runs well when warmed up.

  1. However, I will not make any conclusions until I have seen the codes you have in your possession.
  2. on September 11, 2015, 838869 There are no warning lights that illuminate on the dashboard, however I will investigate the coolant temperature sensor.
  3. Thank you, 13aceofspades13, for making the recommendation.
  4. As a result, I’ve placed an order for a replacement.
  5. The funny thing is that I had seen the loose plug wire but had not followed it all the way down to where it was supposed to go.
  6. on September 11, 2015, On the temperature sensor, the value is 838895+1.
  7. Please keep us informed as to how things are doing when you replace it.
  8. on September 12, 2015, 838924 At 2:16 p.m.

I jumped into the car (after praying to the motor gods), turned the key, and yeeha, the car started on the first pop of the ignition. As a result, thank you to 13aceofspades13 for suggesting this. You’re a legend, man.

Hard to start from cold

I took a 2003 Ford Focus 1800 TDCI Duratorq in for service since it was having trouble starting from cold. It would start perfectly every time after it was warmed up. There are no DTCs stored, and live data shows that pressure generation is good. Checking the amps on the injector harness also indicated that the injection process had begun. Despite the fact that glow plug failures are not often connected with cold start troubles on current common rail systems, the fault displayed exactly the same symptoms as a broken glow plug as you would see on a direct injection configuration in this situation.

  1. Sure enough, they were all excellent, and I was starting to run out of ideas.
  2. Cranking speed is an important factor in achieving a successful cold start.
  3. Using the original starter, this photograph was shot with the cam sensor detached.
  4. Now that we have a fresh beginning.
  5. The advantages of the new starting motor are clearly seen in the photographs.
  6. In addition, the signal on the new starting capture is far cleaner.
  7. Consider how difficult it must be to persuade a customer that his starting motor is the source of his cold start problem, especially when the starter motor appears to be in good working order!

Paul Hoskins is an American football player who plays for the Los Angeles Lakers.

After experimenting with a more stronger battery, I came up with this method, which probably compensates for the less efficient starting motor in the first place.

It is necessary to press the key multiple times.

When the engine does start, it might be lumpy and make a dreadful noise, which is most likely caused by the clutch.

Almost £500 has been spent.

I tried removing a glowplug and turning the key to the ignition, but nothing happened.

As a result, it’s a quirk of the dash light.

This only worked for a short period of time before getting worse.

Glowplugs and the glowplug relay were replaced.

During the winter, the battery died a couple of times due to a lack of use.

Try it out for yourself.

A 71ah 640cc 096 comparable Exide EB712 battery was installed in the vehicle.

What a difference it makes!

I can’t wait to see whether the trend continues into the winter months.

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As a result, the following modifications.

Using the plastic top of the case, apply a little amount of washup liquid to the top front of the battery and then place the plastic top over the battery to leave a trace.

Alternatively, you may just discard.

I purchased my Duracell batteries from Shield Batteries, which is located directly across the street from the old Salford Bus Station.

4 year warranty, and a pleasure to do business with.

Paul.

Larry Summers is a well-known author.

Mine fires and stops several times before ultimately starting when I keep the throttle pressed against the control boards.

Thank you very much.

Sam, you’re welcome.

I changed my starter motor last week and it now starts the first time.

Hi there, I was just wondering whether it is feasible to identify this as a probable problem without spending £60 on Ford diag, or having access to scopes and other diagnostic tools?

Would a specific voltage drop during the cranking process suggest a problem?

Either choice indicates a problem with the starter or the battery at the very least.

The 15th of January, 2013 My tdci was having the same issues as yours, and I was scratching my brain until I read your possible cause.

Thank you so much for your assistance.

13th of September, 2011 After recently experiencing the dreaded ‘click’ on my 2001 TDCI while twisting the ignition key, I noticed that putting the car into third gear caused the starter to activate as an emergency measure.

After considerable procrastination and the problem becoming worse, i.e.

Aside from the brushes’ ends needing a good clean, as well as the commutator and a sticky brush that needed to be freed, everything appeared to be in fine working order.

The feared ‘click’ might still be heard sometimes.

The only thing that might cause this is a shortage of current.

After thoroughly dismantling the faulty solenoid, I discovered that the situation was exactly as I had predicted.

Their corrosion causes them to produce progressively poor mechanical and electrical contact, which in this instance implies that even with a decent battery, the starter will turn more slowly; that is, if it would turn in the first place.

The ‘contacts’ on the solenoid are really the terminals on the solenoid to which the cables are linked; one cable connects to the battery, and the other to the motor; the solenoid has two terminals.

In order to carry the battery current over a copper strip on the end of the solenoid when it is triggered, the heads of the bolts are employed as contact points for the contacts (by turning the ignition key).

When a solenoid is used thousands of times, the heads of the bolts / contacts erode in a similar manner to how a welder works: metal is removed from one surface and deposited on another.

A consequence of the solenoid’s operating tolerances is that when the bolt heads / contacts corrode and degrade, they make less and less contact with the solenoid’s copper strip.

So if the headlights, horn, and other accessories operate properly, the problem is not with the battery.

Motors and brushes will outlive any relay / set of contacts that is ever created or used.

Giving the starting motor / solenoid a brisk tap (don’t savage it!) can generally jolt the solenoid connections and allow you to get back on the road in an emergency situation.

Getting to the starters these days is difficult, whether it’s from under the bonnet or by groveling beneath the vehicle.

Insist on having it replaced with a BRAND NEW one instead.

AndyB 14th of December, 2010 I was a little late in getting this done, but the new starter has made a significant impact – the car was nearly hard to start with the old started now that it is so cold – and the new starter has made all the difference.

In the event of a DMF failure, I would recommend that the starting be reconditioned.

I just replaced out my starter this morning and it started up on the first try.

FOCUS ON TDCI NO.

AndyBOctober 12 2010I have precisely this problem – thank you for pointing me in the direction of a fresh line of research.

a sluggish start On this model, failed DMF appear to be fairly prevalent.

The 6th of September, 2010 Hello, Sutherml.

I’m not confident that my response will be satisfactory.

Over the course of its operational life, all of the mechanical components that go into its creation are destined to suffer some degree of deterioration.

Because of this, the brushescommutator would most likely lose part of their capacity to effectively carry current across the system.

It should also be recognized that the replacement unit may have been subjected to change, and may have been higher rated for the work in question.

Manufacturers respond by altering the specs of the components they use.

I hope this has helped to clarify my thinking.

Davesutherml The 28th of April, 2010 Your other articles describe the nature of the gadget issue in greater detail than this one.

What caused the starting motor to malfunction?

The 21st of February, 2010 Dave Where did you get the parameters for the starter, such as peak amp draw and amperage draw for each make and model of vehicle?

Continue your excellent effort, and once again, thank you.

A year ago, I was experiencing the same issue.

The sleeve of the starting motor was in poor condition.

The dust originated from the dual mass flywheel, which was a problem.

The 25th of May, 2009 My previous experience with a starting motor problem cost me £60 to have it diagnosed by a Ford dealer, which verifies your information above.

I replaced the motor on my Focus 1.8TDCI by myself, which took around 1.5 hours.

arman The 6th of March, 2009 hello there, Dave I work as a Lexus mechanic, so thank you for the helpful technical knowledge.

My brute force approach is what I enjoy.

In comparison to the 6.5, it ensures that the engine cranks smoothly and quickly.

The only negative aspect that I can see is that it appears to be a little harsh on glow plugs.

The 29th of January, 2009 Despite the fact that it may sound absurd, I am confident that many clients will gaze into your eyes in an attempt to determine the truth, with an interest in removing the old one as soon as the problem is resolved.

The 26th of January, 2009 Hello, Nathan.

That portion of material should have been included in an other article entirely.

It’s encouraging to see you asking questions, though.

Moreover, the new starting capture has a much improved signal quality.

Thank you for your interest, gentlemen.

You also observed that there was “a significantly healthier peak voltage.” Did you take a different measurement for that?

Terry Atkinson is a writer who lives in the United Kingdom.

Next week, I’ll be picking up a Volvo XC70 D5 common rail with the same same problem, no codes shown, and so on.

ken January 19, 2009Can you tell me how you increased the rpm?

The 18th of January, 2009 Thank you very much, guys, for your nice words.

Or are you attempting to tie me down on a certain test that you would have conducted and therefore assuming that I should do the same thing as you did?

Please accept my heartfelt greetings.

Continue to send them in!

Alex Chong is a Canadian actor and musician who was born in Hong Kong.

January 17, 2009 Tim Bowkett is a writer who lives in the United Kingdom. The 22nd of December, 2008 I can’t wait for the next chapter, Dave. Excellent work, Dave. Please keep them coming.

Car Hard Start – in Cold Weather only

Greetings: I now possess a 2003 Ford Explorer Limited V6 4 Flex Fuel with around 142K miles on the odometer. Approximately 6 months ago, I began to notice that my truck was difficult to start. (As difficult as it is, it will not turn over. All of the lights turn on, the beeping starts, and the engine revs and revs but doesn’t catch). Once it does start, it has the potential to stall out, or attempt to stall out (the stalling out is not consistent). If the temperature outdoors is above 50 degrees, the machine starts up without a hitch.

Once the temperature outdoors reaches 32 degrees, you can continue for up to 10 minutes.

Once it has caught up, it will begin to rev on its own.

As far as I can tell, only when the engine is completely cold, as I would describe.

Battery, spark plugs, and wires have all been replaced.

The problem has been identified by two independent technicians, both of whom have essentially written off the vehicle (as in they said, It start fine this morning, had to hold the key longer, but it started, 1850 please, have a nice day).

All agree that there are no vacuum leaks, that power is being supplied to the pump, and that everything checks out well.

Others have said that they want to replace the starter, but have failed to explain to me why I do not have starting problems at other times.

Good results were obtained.

The temperature is 91 degrees.

14.18 volts under load 14.02VNo.

13.8 Amps of current The battery is charged to 39.0A.

According to one mechanic, my starter is on its last legs and that I should start there.

Any ideas on what it may be and why it should be considered?

There is a coolant leak somewhere in my system, and I’m not sure where.

They all replied no, and that you were the starter.

Near the point where the rubber home is attached, there is a white residue on top of it.

However, there is no evidence of white residue anyplace else on the vehicle. There are no rips, tears, or cracks in the home that I can see. So I’m not sure if it’s just a leaky component, as this part has already been repaired once, approximately two years ago. Thanks

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