Hissing sound from brakes? (Solved)

Hissing. A hissing noise is usually the brake booster leaking air. There could be a leak in the vacuum line, the booster diaphragm, or the master cylinder. A small leak could cause a hissing sound when you press on the brake pedal or let off.

How do you fix hissing brakes?

In most cases, you don’t lose any brake fluid. The noise is caused by air being sucked via a cracked brake booster O-ring or silencing foam or diaphragm. In some cases, you may notice that the noise goes away when you press the brake pedal or gas pedal. Replacing the brake booster will fix this problem.

Is it safe to drive with hissing brakes?

While the hissing sound may be a sign of nothing more dangerous than a failed piece of foam, it could be a symptom of something much more worrisome – a damaged brake booster and a failing master cylinder. You cannot afford to take chances with your brake system.

How do I know if my brake booster has a vacuum leak?

If the pedal feels hard immediately, or after only one brake application, it may indicate a vacuum leak or a low level of engine vacuum. Inspect the vacuum hose to the booster for kinks, cracks or other damage. Check vacuum at idle with a vacuum gauge.

Is it safe to drive with a leaking brake booster?

I would not recommend driving a vehicle very much that has a vacuum leak in the brake system. Without the vacuum assist that the brake booster provides the vehicle, it will be much more difficult to slow down and stop. This is in case the engine dies on the highway and you need to stop your vehicle and pull over.

How much does it cost to replace a brake booster?

To have your brake booster replaced, you are looking at a cost somewhere between $300 and $700 for the majority of cars. There are some outliers, of course, but on average, you will pay somewhere in that range. Labor costs tend to range between $100 and $170, while parts can cost as little as $150 or as much as $500.

What is a hissing sound?

The definition of a hiss is the sound of an angry animal or of escaping air or steam, or the sound of a long s. An example of a hiss is the sound of a snake in distress. noun. Hiss is defined as to make the sound of a snake or a long s. An example of to hiss is to go ‘ssssssss.’

Why are my new brakes whistling?

When the brakes are applied, the warning noise goes away because the indicator has now been forced against the brake rotor and is not able to vibrate, causing this whistling noise. If you hear brake noises other than a squeal, it could mean your brake pads are worn out and need to be replaced.

How do I know if my master cylinder or booster is bad?

The Symptoms of a Bad Brake Booster or Master Cylinder

  1. Illuminated brake warning light on the console.
  2. Leaking brake fluid.
  3. Insufficient braking pressure or hard brakes.
  4. Spongy brakes or sinking brake pedal.
  5. Engine misfire or stalling when the brakes are applied.

How do you know if your master cylinder is bad?

When a master cylinder begins to fail, sometimes the brakes will feel fine one second and lose braking power the next. If fluid is leaking past the seals inside the cylinder, the pedal may feel firm for a moment but won’t hold steady; it’ll feel spongy and keep sinking towards the floor.

Why do I hear air when I push on my brakes?

Cars can make many noises, and a hissing noise when braking can be among them. But if you hear a hissing sound when pushing down or letting up on the brake pedal, it usually is caused by the brake booster leaking air, which could mean there’s a leak in the booster diaphragm, master cylinder gasket, or vacuum hose.

What does it mean when my brake pedal goes to the floor?

When brakes are not as responsive as what they should be, or if the brake pedal “sinks” down to the floor, this is a possible indication of a braking system leak. It could be a brake fluid leak, or a brake hose air leak.

Can you run a car without a brake booster?

Yes, though you’ll need to apply a fair amount more pressure to come to a complete stop. There’s still a mechanical connection within the booster, even if the boost is lost. One can also modify a cars brake system to remove the booster.

Why Is There a Hissing Noise When I Brake?

Snakes hiss at each other. Cats feel the same way. In any case, what is causing the hissing noise coming from your automobile brakes? It’s likely that the hissing is being caused by a mechanical problem. Fortunately, in the majority of situations, this is a problem that can be quickly resolved!

What’s Behind the Hissing Noise?

There are several noises that cars may make, and one of them is a hissing sound that occurs during braking. If you have a disconnected or leaky vacuum hose surrounding the engine, or if there is a problem with your vehicle’s serpentine belt, you may hear a hissing noise. While pressing down or releasing the brake pedal, you may hear a hissing sound. This is generally caused by the brake booster losing air, which might indicate that a leak in the booster diaphragm, master cylinder gasket, or vacuum hose has occurred.

A diaphragm is located inside the brake booster, and it is responsible for controlling the pressure while the brake pedal is not depressed.

When this stage is completed, vacuum pressure is created on one side of the diaphragm, which provides stopping power.

It is possible that the following is the cause:

  • A hole in the vacuum hose that allows the brake booster to function in conjunction with it
  • The failure of the brake booster is caused by a fault with the diaphragm of the brake booster. Breach in the master cylinder gasket that allows air to flow into the brake booster
  • A foam silencer that is either missing or damaged. Many automobiles equipped with brake boosters are equipped with a piece of foam that helps to muffle the hissing sound. Depending on how much foam is missing or damaged, you can hear a hissing sound.

What Should You Do About a Hissing Noise?

If it looks that the hissing noise is tied to braking, don’t ignore it and expect that the sound will just go. Instead, investigate more. Because your car’s braking system is complicated, it’s best to get it serviced at your local Firestone Complete Auto Care location. When one of our professionals can run a diagnosis to locate the source of the hissing sounds and provide recommendations on any repairs that may be required. When it comes to hissing, our specialists can evaluate whether the problem is as simple as a missing or damaged piece of foam or as serious as a brake booster or master cylinder that has to be fixed or replaced.

  • It’s best not to put off taking care of a brake problem because the brakes are one of your car’s most vital safety elements and should never be ignored.
  • It’s important to have regular brake maintenance performed on your car’s brakes to avoid issues like a hissing noise or anything else from becoming an issue.
  • At that time, the cost of ensuring that your brakes are in perfect operating order might be rather high!
  • – Make an appointment at your local Firestone Complete Auto Service for a free brake examination and high-quality auto care.

Hissing sound from brakes

If you hear hissing sounds coming from the brakes
while in the passenger compartment, this is an indication that the vacuum booster is malfunctioning. The vacuum booster works by using the vacuum generated by the engine to improve braking power. A rubber diaphragm and a push rod are used in the construction of the booster. The rod is attached to your brake pedal on one end and pulls the master cylinder piston on the other end. Engine vacuum is provided evenly to both sides of the diaphragm when the engine is running and no brakes are applied, hence there is no braking help when the engine is running.

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Following that, the engine vacuum pushes the diaphragm towards the master cylinder, forcing the push rod to engage with the master cylinder.

This is a rather simple remedy.

Separate the push rod from the brake pedal and set it aside.

Replace the vacuum booster with a one that has been refurbished. To reinstall, follow the steps in reverse order. Rick Muscoplat’s 2015 Rick Muscoplat’s Rick Muscoplat posted a blog entry on

Hissing Noise From Brake Pedal

You may have noticed a hissing sound emanating from the brake pedal. You may be able to hear the noise all of the time, or you may only notice it when you hit the gas pedal. A failed brake booster is most likely to blame if you hear a hissing noise coming from under the dashboard that changes as you press or release the brake pedal region.

Symptoms

  • When pressing the brakes, there is a hissing sound that comes from the brake pedal. The brakes make a sound like air is escaping
  • Hissing sound coming from the brake booster
  • When you press the brakes, you hear a whoosh sound.

Common Cause

You may have noticed that when you press and release the brake pedal, even when the car is completely stopped, you hear a popping sound. Does the hissing noise have a similar sound to this? When you apply the brakes, it may appear as if air is being expelled, but in reality, air is being drawn into the vehicle. A leaky brake booster is the most common cause of the sounds. One side of a brake booster contains a diaphragm that is filled with vacuum generated by the engine, which is one side of the booster.

  1. The suction generated by the engine makes pressing the brake pedal simpler, and it assists you in reducing the amount of force required to bring the vehicle to a stop.
  2. In the vast majority of situations, no braking fluid is lost.
  3. When you push the brake pedal or the gas pedal, you may notice that the noise disappears.
  4. This problem can be resolved by replacing the brake booster.
  5. Right behind the master cylinder is where you’ll find the brake booster.
  6. If you hear hissing noises coming from under the dashboard or brake pedal region, don’t ignore them.

Brake Pads

A wear sensor is built inside the brake pads. As your brake pads wear down, the wear sensor comes into touch with the rotor, increasing the amount of grinding noise you hear when you brake or use the brakes. This noise should only be heard when you are braking, and not when the car is completely stopped.

Hissing Noise From Car Brakes—What Could Be Wrong?

It is possible that we will receive commissions for purchases made through the links in this post. It’s no secret that having good brakes is essential to driving safely on the road. However, if you notice an unusual noise coming from them, such as a hissing sound, it is likely to cause you some concern. What may be causing the hissing noise coming from your car’s braking system? But don’t be concerned, because we have done the research for you and provided you with the answer in this article!

If your car’s brakes are making a hissing sound, it could be due to a variety of factors. When it comes to brakes, they rely on a vacuum pressure to do their job, so if you hear a hissing noise, it is more than likely due to a leak in one of the following areas:

  • A brake booster O-ring, a master cylinder, a vacuum line, silencer foam, and a booster dialphram are all components of a brake booster.

This may appear to be a lengthy list of reasons why you could be hearing a hissing noise coming from your brakes. However, in this post, we will take a closer look at each of these concerns in order to better understand why they are so important. Additionally, we will describe how to resolve these difficulties, so continue reading!

Hissing Noise From Car Brakes—What Could Be Wrong

It is important to understand the operation of your vehicle brakes before discussing the reason for the hissing. When a vehicle is slowing down or stopping, the braking system employs a variety of brakes to accomplish this. There are two types of braking systems: hydraulic and cable-operated. Hydraulic brakes are the more common type. Due to the fact that hydraulic pressure is created by the amount of effort you apply to your brake pedal and is transferred to your brake pads through your brake fluids, the hydraulic braking system is more effective than the cable-operated braking system in terms of stopping power.

For the cable-operated braking system to work properly, tension must be established by tightening the wire cables.

This braking system differs from others in that it does not rely on fluid or heat for its operation, but instead depends on the tension created by applying stress to the cables instead.

Brake Booster O-Ring

The brake booster or O-Ring is the first thing that comes to mind when thinking of a hissing noise. If you have a faulty brake pedal, it is likely that your vehicle may use the brake booster to aid in putting pressure to the brake pads in order to bring your vehicle to a stop as a result of the problem. The hissing noise might be caused by a low vacuum pressure within the brake booster, which is trying to establish an equalized pressure inside the brake booster if there is an air leakage in the brake booster.

Master Cylinder

The master cylinder seals are the second probable source of a hissing noise to look out for. The master cylinder may be leaking if you do not have an equalized pressure in your car’s brake booster. If you do not have an equalized pressure in your car’s brake booster, then there is a risk that the master cylinder will leak. Because of the unequalized pressure in your braking system, this might result in low pressures in your brake system, which can generate a hissing noise.

Vacuum Line

Cracks or damage in your vacuum line might be the source of the hissing sound, which is the third probable explanation. Whether you want to see if this is the problem, look for fractures and other damage in your brake lines that might allow pressure to escape from them.

Silencing Foam

One of the most prevalent causes of a hissing sound is poor silencing foam, which is one of the most common causes.

This portion is typically subjected to high pressure or high temperatures, which causes it to expand. If this occurs, you will hear a hissing sound as a result of the incorrect silencing foam being utilized.

Booster Diaphram

The third reason you could hear a hissing noise is if the brake booster diaphragm in your automobile isn’t operating properly. This has the potential to produce a leak since it does not provide the pressure necessary to engage your brakes.

How do you Fix Hissing Brakes?

Now that you’ve identified some of the potential reasons, it’s time to address the issue. You will need to bring your vehicle in for repair if your car brakes are hissing for any cause other than normal wear and tear. This will allow the mechanics to properly diagnose the problem and provide you with an exact estimate of what needs to be done. If you are not a competent technician, it may be difficult to determine the source of the problem on your own. What may happen is far worse than what could happen, and you could end up spending more money than you would have if you had simply taken it to a repair in the first place!

What Happens if the Brake Booster Goes Bad?

It is the purpose of the brake booster to aid in the braking of your car. When you apply pressure to your brakes, pressure is created throughout the brake lines that are linked to each wheel. This aids in the creation of sufficient pressure so that after you quit putting pressure to your brake pedal, the brakes may be engaged without difficulty. Cracks and other damage to the brake booster system, low fluid levels (due to a leak), and/or malfunctioning vacuum lines are all possible causes of a faulty brake booster.

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Having your automobile taken to a technician to have the brake booster repaired is the best course of action if you have a malfunctioning brake booster on your hands.

How do I Know if my Brake Booster Needs to be Replaced?

If your brake pedal feels too stiff and does not fully depress when you press it, this might suggest a problem with your brake booster, which can be repaired. Depressing the brake pedal and stepping on it as hard as you can will also allow you to test and validate the operation of your vehicle’s braking system. A hissing noise may indicate the presence of air in the lines, which might be caused by a leak, damaged vacuum lines, or cracks in other components of your vehicle’s brake system. It is critical to do regular maintenance on all other components of your vehicle’s braking system in order to avoid having a malfunctioning brake booster.

Make sure to repair any components that are showing indications of wear and tear as soon as possible so that the system does not suffer any more consequences.

How Much Does it Cost to Replace a Brake Booster?

A brake booster replacement will vary in price based on the vehicle and the severity of the problem. In order to account for this, a brake booster replacement might cost between $300 and $700. (USD). These expenses will also be determined by how much a mechanic in your region will charge for an hour of labor in your location. As a result, it is always worthwhile to shop about and obtain many price quotations in order to discover the greatest offer possible! The usual lifespan of a brake booster is between five and 10 years, depending on the model.

In spite of this, even if you do not drive your car frequently, it will be impacted by minor problems such as low fluid levels and ruptured vacuum lines. As a result, you must examine your car for symptoms of damage once every six months to ensure that nothing has happened.

Can you Drive with Air in Brake Lines?

Air trapped in your brake lines can impair the performance of your brakes and cause them to fail. The brakes on your automobile are intended to operate under hydraulic pressure, which means that they require fluid to function properly. Any air bubbles present in your brake lines will impair the effectiveness of your braking system’s activation capabilities. Not only that, but if you’re driving along and your brake pedal suddenly drops a few inches, it’s possible that there’s a leak somewhere in your system.

Final Thoughts

After all is said and done, the condition of your brakes is critical to your safety while driving. For example, if your brake booster is malfunctioning, it is not safe for you to be behind the wheel of your car. That is why it is critical to ensure that all of your parts are in proper functioning condition and to replace any components that are showing symptoms of wear and tear as soon as they appear. Performing a routine inspection of your car’s braking system every six months is always a good idea in order to avoid any problems.

It is possible that they have not been damaged due to a lack of care, low fluid levels, or other typical problems.

Vehicle Brakes and Braking Systems Are Divided Into Ten Types To learn more about what causes brakes to lock up when driving, read on.

Hissing sound near brake pedal, stops on brake pedal press

74k people have seen this question. I drive a Ford Fiesta Classic, a 2008 model with more than 97,500 kilometers on the odometer. Yesterday, when I walked out of the workplace late at night, the environment was deafeningly quiet, and I noticed a hissing sound coming from around the pedals below the steering wheel. I slammed on the brakes and brought the car to a complete halt, but the sound had vanished. When I let off of the brake pedal, the roar erupted once more. Without a doubt, this sound is associated with the brake pedal.

  • The only way to silence this noise is to depress the brake pedal.
  • I took my car to a nearby garage this morning, and the mechanic claimed everything was OK.
  • If anyone has experience with or knowledge of this subject, please share your thoughts with me.
  • on July 16, 2015 Rohith Rohith2331 has received 2 gold badges, 2 silver badges, and 10 bronze badges.

Most automobiles are equipped with servo-assisted brakes (which is why it is considerably more difficult to stop when the engine is turned off), which are typically operated by a vacuum line removed from the inlet manifold (so that as the engine sucks in air and fuel, it also sucks air out of the servo).

  1. The servo is attached to the brake cylinder, which may be seen sticking out of the middle of it.
  2. Keep an eye out for any indicators of a leak everywhere around you.
  3. A total of 28.4k6 gold badges51 silver badges105 bronze badges4 are owned by Nick C.
  4. The HVAC controls are occasionally controlled by a vacuum line that runs through the vehicle’s interior cabin.
  5. Observe the vacuum lines leading to the brake booster to check whether there is one that passes through the firewall.
  6. Capping off the hose at the brake booster could be a more convenient option.
  7. A stethoscope will assist you in determining the source of a noise, and a vacuum gauge will assist you in determining whether or not a line is leaking.

A portable vacuum pump will allow you to test lines and devices on the fly.

If the vacuum lowers, it indicates that there is a leak.

I recommend that you do a Power Brake Booster test in order to evaluate whether or not the Booster is beginning to fail.

You may be hearing what sounds like a ‘Whaught’ (vacuum sound in reverse) coming from under your dashboard.

answered At 7:41 a.m.

The same thing happened to me with my 2001 Toyota Tacoma.

I took the booster out of the bag and began to disassemble it.

cdunn9,2765 gold badges have been awarded to you.

74 bronze medals were awarded.

30, 2016, 11:22 a.m.

When you disconnect and plug the vacuum line to the brake booster, you are effectively removing all suction from the booster.

If the sounds disappear but reappear when the vacuum booster is plugged back in, it is necessary to replace the vacuum booster.

If you want to save money, I HIGHLY recommend purchasing the booster and the master cylinder as a package deal.

In addition, you may use any simple vacuum gauge to determine where the leak is originating from and where it is going.

Then, using the engine, begin backtracking to the beginning.

Then disconnect the vacuum line that runs between the gauge and the engine and close the valve.

Using carb cleaning, propane/butane, or lysol spray as alternatives can be effective (contains alcohol).

All of these are extremely combustible, so please take my disclaimer as a reminder that you must know what you are doing and be really cautious and knowledgeable about these approaches. their capacity to start a fire or call in an expert to help them answered 7th of July, 2018 at 19:32

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The brakes on your car are the most crucial safety components on the road. However, despite their significance, it’s easy to take them for granted, at least until your automobile begins to exhibit unusual behavior. Normally, applying the brake pedal should only result in the automobile slowing down or coming to a complete stop. A hissing sound that occurs when the brake pedal is pushed might indicate that something in the system needs to be fixed.

How this system works:

On many automobiles, the master cylinder is used in conjunction with a brake booster. The brake booster is attached to the firewall, usually in front of the driver’s seat, and the master cylinder is connected to it through a hose. All of the brake booster’s functions are designed to make it simpler to apply pressure to the brake pedal in order to slow or stop the vehicle. Vacuum pressure is used to operate your brake booster. There is a diaphragm inside the pedal that is responsible for sustaining pressure even when the pedal is not being pressed.

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The side of the diaphragm that faces the cabin vents to atmospheric pressure, and the other side maintains vacuum pressure in the cabin.

The hissing sounds you hear when you depress the brake pedal might be nothing more than normal functioning, or it could be a symptom of a more serious problem with the vehicle.

Common reasons for this to happen:

  • Your brake booster receives suction from the engine through a vacuum pipe. If your vacuum line leaks, your brake booster will not function properly. It’s frequently seen at the firewall, as the name implies. If there is a leak in this hose, it can be heard throughout the cabin. The brake booster diaphragm, which is responsible for maintaining pressure within the booster, might fail, particularly if the master cylinder spills hydraulic fluid into the booster, as seen in the illustration. It is possible to hear a hissing sound while pushing the brake pedal in this situation, but the pedal itself will be far harder to depress. Damaged or missing foam silencer:Most automobiles equipped with brake boosters also have a foam silencer, which is intended to assist prevent you from hearing the hissing sound when the brakes are applied. It is possible to detect whether or not the silencer has deteriorated or been destroyed by hearing the hissing sound. Failure of the Master Cylinder: If you hear a hissing sound and believe that the source of the problem is the diaphragm in the booster, the true reason is most likely the master cylinder, which is starting to fail. Low brake fluid levels in the reservoir with no apparent breaches are indications that the master cylinder is leaking into the brake booster
  • And

What to expect:

A top-rated mobile technician will visit to your house or place of business to examine your braking system, including the functionality of the brake pedal, the brake booster, and the sound of the hissing brakes, among other things. After that, the technician will offer a full inspection report that will contain the extent and cost of the repairs that will be required.

How it’s done:

The mechanic will need to crank the car in order to verify the hissing sound, and it may be essential to do a test drive in order to recreate the issue. In addition, the technician will check the functionality of the brake pedal, the condition of the brake booster, the master cylinder, the amount of fluid in your system, and other things as necessary.

How important is this service?

Power brakes are fantastic inventions, since they make it significantly easier to use a brake pedal that would normally take substantial force to operate in the traditional manner. However, while the hissing sound may be caused by nothing more serious than an errant piece of foam, it might also be the result of a far more serious problem, such as a broken brake booster or a malfunctioning master cylinder.

The safety of your brake system cannot be compromised under any circumstances. When you bring your vehicle to us, one of our skilled technicians will evaluate the whole system and assess if there is cause for worry, as well as what has to be done if a problem exists.

Hissing Sound from Brake Pedal Area – Why?

Okay, I’ll admit that I went a bit ‘down and dirty’ tonight. It was necessary to examine both of the check valves outlined in red in the photo above, as well as another valve with a ‘Y’ splitter close to the right of the far-right red circled check valve in the photograph above. The first is the red-circled check valve on the far left. It allows air to pass through it in one direction but not the other. When it came time to get to the red-circled item on the right, I had to eliminate two of the three huge plugs that were closest to the driver’s front door.

  1. I’m guessing the heat is causing the tubes to burst.
  2. However, it appears that the spalling did not penetrate to a sufficient depth to induce a leak in the tube itself.
  3. While I was inspecting the red circled check valve on the right-hand side of the tank, and with two of the three huge electrical plugs out, I saw another valve with a distinct appearance just a little farther to the right.
  4. There is only one on its black side, closest to the driver.
  5. A little over an inch in length, one of the two on the white side was the shortest of the two.
  6. In any case, the air flow was just one direction via this valve that looked like a Y-splitter.
  7. I connected everything and went for a test drive.
  8. However, it was only a two-mile drive.
  9. Is it possible that these check valves will fail all at once?
  10. Then I’ll have to wait till the valve in question starts acting strangely or fails altogether before I can do anything about it.

Brake pedal is soft and makes hissing noise!

Pump the accelerator pedal until it becomes really hard when the truck is not running. Keep your foot firmly planted on the gas pedal and the vehicle will begin to move. If it is functioning properly, the pedal will go downward. If it continues to be ‘high and hard,’ the booster system is not functioning properly. This information comes from alldata. Remove the vacuum booster hose from the connection to the check valve. When the engine is running at idle speed and the transmission is in NEUTRAL, the vacuum booster hose must have manifold vacuum accessible at the check valve end of the hose.

CHECK, and if there is no downward movement of the brake pedal, the power brake booster should be replaced.

Allow the car to sit for 10 minutes after turning off the engine.

When the engine is running, the brake pedal should have the same sensation as when the engine is not running.

If the brake pedal is difficult to press (there is no power assist), replace the check valve and conduct another test. If the brake pedal feels spongy, the hydraulic system should be bled to release any trapped air.

Hissing Sound when Brakes are applied

1. Perform a functional test while the engine is turned off by pressing the brake pedal numerous times to deplete the vacuum reservoir, then firmly pressing and holding the brake pedal for 15 seconds. It is possible that the brake pedal dips because the MC is internally bypassing or because there is a leak in the braking system. (mc, lines, prop valve, calipers, wheel cylinders, and so on) mc (motor control) 2. Start the engine while keeping the brake pedal depressed. If the pedal sinks a little bit, the vacuum booster is in good working order.

3.

It is possible that the master cylinder is malfunctioning if the pedal sinks more than 3/8′ (10mm) in the span of three minutes.

While the engine is running, depress and hold the brake pedal for a few seconds before turning off the engine.

If the brake pedal rises, this indicates that the booster is faulty.

Turn off the engine and wait for approximately 30 seconds before restarting.

When pressing the brake pedal for the first time, it should be at a low position, and it should progressively rise with each subsequent compression.

3.

4.

There should be a vacuum accessible at all times.

Replace the suction hose and do another test.

While the engine is running, crimp the vacuum hose between the check valve and the booster to prevent it from escaping.

Turn off the engine and wait for approximately 30 seconds before restarting.

Once again, the brake pedal should be at a low position when initially pressed, gradually increasing in pressure with each subsequent compression.

If the pedal position does change, the vacuum hose and check valve assembly should be replaced.

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