The most common cause for Error Code P1259 or VTEC system malfunction is low oil pressure. If it’s in bad condition, then replace it with real original Honda oil pressure switch. Lastly, you could have a restricted VTEC solenoid passage, or faulty VTEC solenoid or wiring. Repair or replace as needed.
What are the symptoms of a bad VTEC solenoid?
What are the symptoms of a bad VTEC solenoid? The most likely scenario with a VTEC solenoid failure is when you get a check engine light, and the car will likely go into limp mode, often leaving you fearing the worst.
Can VTEC fail?
While a Honda VTEC solenoid rarely goes bad, problems with VTEC not engaging properly are extremely common. Most of the time incorrect wiring is to blame, but occasionally something even smaller is the culprit.
How do you test a VTEC pressure switch?
To test for continuity on the vtec switch, set the meter appropriately (like picture) and touch one lead to each of the two pins on the vtec switch itself. To test for continuity of the vtec circuit in the ECU, you woud touch one lead to each of the pins in the unplugged wiring harness.
Can you drive with a bad VTEC solenoid?
Can You Drive with a Bad VVT Solenoid? Even though you may technically be able to continue driving with a bad VVT solenoid, the issue can cause damage to additional parts, such as the VVT actuator. So, you should address the issue as soon as possible.
Can I drive with a bad solenoid?
The short answer is that, yes, you can usually drive a car with a bad shift solenoid. Fluid pressure control should continue to function in the gear with the working solenoid, but you should avoid putting any serious stress on the transmission — towing or drag racing — just in case.
How do I fix my VTEC system malfunction?
The most common cause for Error Code P1259 or VTEC system malfunction is low oil pressure. Thus, make sure you check your oil if it’s due for service. Change oil and filter if necessary. Clear the codes and then give it a try.
What are the symptoms of a bad variable valve timing solenoid?
Bad Oil Control Valve (VVT Solenoid) Symptoms
- Indicating Check Engine Light.
- Rough Idling.
- Rough Acceleration.
- Increased Fuel Consumption.
- Low Engine Performance.
What happens when VTEC kicks in?
When VTEC kicks in, you can hear how much more air the engine is pulling in, and the power difference is very palpable. It goes from being slightly faster than an average economy car to something that is pretty quick and responsive. It does not feel quite like a turbocharger.
How does a VTEC solenoid work?
At the switch point a solenoid is actuated that allows oil pressure from a spool valve to operate a locking pin which binds the high RPM rocker arm to the low RPM ones. From this point on, the valves open and close according to the high-lift profile, which opens the valve further and for a longer time.
What does Honda spool valve do?
Spool valves can be used in both hydraulics (where the oil is the energy source) or Pneumatics (where the air is the energy source) and their job is to control the flow direction of the energy source by combining or switching the paths through which the oil or air can travel.
How do I bypass the VTEC oil pressure switch?
This can be easily bypassed with a simple wiring trick: On your engine harness, locate the VTEC oil pressure switch plug/wire (this wire comes from OBD1 ECU pin D6). Use a common T-tap or other method and simply tap this into the VTEC solenoid valve wire (the VTEC solenoid wire comes from OBD1 ECU pin A4).
Where is oil pressure switch?
Depending on the engine construction, the oil pressure switch usually can be found in one of the most common locations: in the cylinder block of the engine or in the oil filter housing as well as at some engine types can be found in the engine head.
P1259 VTEC Code – Can’t seem to solve!
In other words, after thoroughly cleaning the whole VTEC solenoid component on Saturday, the code threw up today. If you do not clean immediately after cleaning, you should see a difference in three to four days before you get the error number again. So I went ahead and pulled the valve you indicated, and it didn’t appear to be that awful. I did see that the screen (which was closest to the exposed end) was a little loose and that it was
spinning around freely. I observed that there is a snap ring at the end of the valve, so I removed it and cleaned the interior of the valve with rubbing alcohol.
The fact that the code had cleared itself before the engine could even be started was surprising when everything had been put back together again.
I’m not sure what this implies exactly.
If this doesn’t work, I’ll try using the Seafoam solution instead.
- See attachment 113594 for further information.
- That’s how it happens when the valve isn’t working properly and isn’t moving as it should.
- There is no longer a need for coding.
- It is not necessary to clear codes every time you do an action; in certain circumstances, such as this one, the code will clear itself.
that damn sneaky p1259 code.
The result is that today, after having cleaned every component of the VTEC solenoid assembly on Saturday, the code is still present. This has been constant after cleaning; it will persist for three to four days until the code is thrown again, which is consistent. That valve that you specified was removed, and the condition of the valve did not seem too poor. I did note that the screen (which was closest to the exposed end) was a little loose and that it was rotating around a little. I saw that there is a snap ring at the end of the valve, so I removed it and cleaned the inside of it.
- The fact that the code had cleared itself before the engine could even be started was surprising once everything had been reassembled.
- What this signifies is unclear to me.
- When everything else fails, I’ll resort to using Seafoam.
- Attachment 113594 can be seen here.
- If you have a problem with a valve that isn’t working properly, this is what happens.
You no longer require code. Light is turned off as a result. Sometimes, such as in this situation, you don’t need to clear codes every time you do something since the code will clear itself. Tapatalk was used to send the message from my SM-G950U.
P1259 – VTEC system malfunction (Honda) – TroubleCodes.net
|Trouble Code||Fault Location||Probable Cause|
|P1259||VTEC system malfunction||Wiring, VTEC solenoid/pressure switch, ECM programming, ECM|
We strongly advise you to Torque Pro is a software program that allows you to control the torque of a motor.
What Does Code P1259 Mean?
OBD II fault code P1259 is a manufacturer-specific code defined by Honda as ‘VTEC System Circuit Fault (Bank 1),’ and it is set on these applications when the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) detects a defect, malfunction, or failure in the electrical control/monitoring system of the VTEC mechanism on Bank 1. This code is set on these applications when the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) detects a defect, malfunction, or failure in the electrical control/monitoring system of the V On V-type engines, it is important to note that the term ‘Bank 1’ refers to the bank of cylinders that comprises cylinder 1.
- ‘VTEC’ stands forV ariableV alveT imingL iftE lectronicC ontrol, and it is an abbreviation for variable valve timing and electronic control.
- However, in practical terms, VTEC should not be confused with Variable Valve Timing systems, which spin camshafts in relation to a reference point in order to advance or retard the valve timing, respectively.
- One profile is intended to enhance power and fuel efficiency at low engine speeds, whilst the other profile is intended to boost airflow and, consequently, engine power at engine speeds more than roughly 4000 RPM (recommended).
- A PCM operates an oil control solenoid, which lets pressurized engine oil to act on a sliding locking pin, which locks the three valve lifters together when the conditions are right, often at high engine speeds over around 4000 RPM.
- When the engine speed goes below about 4000 RPM, the PCM releases the oil pressure from the locking pin, causing the center valve lifter to become disengaged from the neighbouring lifters and the engine to switch back to using the low-lift lifters, which results in the engine stalling.
- As a result, the switching process does not require any inputs from the driver and is therefore relatively seamless in its execution.
Though the code P1259 primarily refers to a fault in the VTEC systems’ control/signal/monitoring circuit, it should be noted that a variety of mechanical failure mechanisms can contribute to the setting and storage of this code.
Where is the P1259 sensor located?
The placement of the VTEC oil control solenoid on a Honda Civic engine is seen in the illustration above. Honda applications differ slightly in terms of the location and appearance of VTEC oil control solenoids, so consult the manual for the affected application for information on the solenoid’s location as well as the wiring diagram, color coding, and function of each wire in the oil control solenoid’s control circuit. Failure to accurately identify wires will result in a misdiagnosis, which may result in the needless replacement of parts and components.
What are the common causes of code P1259?
VTEC oil control solenoid placement on a Honda Civic engine is shown in the illustration above. Nonetheless, because the actual location and appearance of VTEC oil control solenoids varies slightly between Honda applications, it is best to consult the manual for the affected application for information on the solenoid’s location, as well as the routing, color-coding, and function of each wire in the oil control solenoid’s control circuit. Misdiagnosis and even needless replacement of parts and components will result if wires are not appropriately identified and labeled.
- Wiring and/or connections that have been damaged, burned, shorted, disconnected, or corroded
- VTEC oil control solenoid failure
- VTEC oil pressure switch failure
- VTEC oil control solenoid failure Engine oil level is low
- This is a problem. Engine oil that is dirty, deteriorated, or otherwise inappropriate
- Failure or failure of the PCM, however keep in mind that this is an uncommon occurrence and that the issue must be found elsewhere before any control module is replaced
Even though there are some exceptions, the general rule is that if the code is set between idling and just above idling speeds, the fault is caused by a general electrical issue, and that if it is set above about 4000 RPM, the fault is almost always caused by insufficient oil pressure, or a failure of the VTEC oil pressure sensor.
BAT Team Discussions for P1259
There were none found. P1259 has a question? Ask it here.
P1259: A problem in the VTEC pressure switch circuit or.
This is about the extent of my knowledge at this point, however. Jackmpg is cited as the source. ‘P1259 is a diagnostic code. Hello, Clay, P1259: A fault has occurred in the VTEC pressure switch circuit or the VTEC solenoid valve circuit. On page 6-6 of the service manual, if you have it, you may begin the diagnostic procedure. Yes, the diagnostic procedure is time-consuming. It appears that you have replaced the major components that might be questionable. It is necessary to check the oil pressure.
- Despite the fact that you should follow the diagnostic procedure, it appears that the problem began when you strained the engine by driving up a steep slope in an attempt to keep up with the fast-moving rush hour traffic.
- Regular engine oil and filter replacements are also important.
- Pcode P1259 is assigned to me, and the Sub Pcodes / Blink codes that I have thus far are CEL 22 and EPS 23.
- Is this the most up-to-date and accurate method and diagnostic link?
- Is it possible to check for silt at the filter?
- All that was needed was a 100 degree blacktop parking lot day with 75 percent humidity.
- For Willie: you recommend some seafoam, drive like I stole it, and report back.
- Get the cat up to a high temperature and burn the crap off of it.
- I have maintained all of my own vehicles in the past, including an 88 Honda Accord, a 93 Acura Integra, a 3000 GTS, a 2006 Civic Si, a 2006 Scion TC-RS, and a 03 Acura RSX TypeS with an aftermarket greddy turbo, and a 01 Honda Insight.
If you are looking for some immediate responses from members of the community, you will not find many DIYs, success stories, or follow-ups with additional P1259 experiences, it appears. Thank you in advance to everyone.
P1259 VTEC Malfunction
97k miles on a 1999 TL 3.2. Has accumulated 60 thousand hours of service. Timing belt and plugs are both original equipment. I’m in desperate need of some professional assistance with this situation. I answered the questions about the OBD II and the oxygen sensor. My check engine light was illuminated, and I had the code removed just now. Upon investigation, it was determined that it was P1259 VTEC Malfunction, open or short in VTEC Solenoid, open or short in VTEC pressure switch, wiring or ECM check codes as per the factory repair handbook for Honda utilized as a reference by the technician at a local shop.
- When I phoned Acura, they told me that they couldn’t do anything at this time because the engine light was not illuminated.
- I need to find a solution to this situation right away.
- On extremely hot days, only after the vehicle has been parked for a period of time.
- After that, everything will work perfectly.
- It comes and goes quite quickly.
- There will be a slight pause in the action.
- This is also a sporadic pattern of behavior.
- During the code pull, the mechanic saw that I had a damaged motor mount on the right side of the vehicle.
- In addition, please keep in mind that my transmission was completely changed around two months ago.
- Thank you.
Check Engine Light, code P1259
On this one, I’d go straight to the dealer. Don’t tamper with the quantity or quality of oil. Is there anything more in the database except P1259? Are you certain that it is P1259? It goes without saying that you must locate the cause of the oil leak. In the VTEC Oil Pressure Switch circuit or the VTEC Solenoid Valve circuit, a fault has occurred. Basic checks include searching for loose connections, shorted wires in the VTEC circuit, a bad VTEC oil pressure switch, a bad VTEC solenoid valve, a broken PCM, and a bad ground.
- This information will tell you if the code is scheduled to run at a high or low engine rpm setting.
- The VTEC system should be checked for mechanical or oil pressure issues if the code appears while the VTEC system is in operation.’ EricD expresses himself as follows: ‘During acceleration, the VTEC engine sputters and sputters.
- The ECM/PCM may be ordering a fuel cutoff due of low or delayed engine oil pressure to the VTEC system, if your customer complains that his or her vehicle’s engine hesitates briefly when accelerating.
- Whenever the ECM/PCM determines that VTEC is required based on the throttle opening, vehicle speed, engine coolant temperature, and engine speed, the VTEC solenoid valve is activated.
- For those who keep their switches on (because of low oil pressure), the ECM/PCM orders fuel cutoff, which turns down all of the fuel injectors in the vehicle.
- However, if the oil pressure switch is turned off before the ECM/PCM sets the DTC, the engine will pause for a moment before continuing to run properly.
- Description in broad terms On demand from the powertrain control module (PCM), the VTEC system activates the VTEC solenoid valve and charges or discharges the hydraulic circuit of the VTEC mechanism, which is mounted in the valve system, in order to alter valve timing between Low and High.
There is a discrepancy between the oil pressure condition in the hydraulic circuit as determined by the PCM command and the oil pressure condition as determined by the status of the VTEC oil pressure switch, and a diagnostic trouble code is saved.
Cam action with a low lift When the VTEC solenoid valve is turned off, the VTEC oil pressure switch does not turn on either, as well.
Start the engine and let it warm up.
Attempt retesting after turning off electrical components such as the music system and air conditioning, and try a different gear position if you are having difficulties recreating the DTC.
Specifics of the Diagnosis Conditions for lighting the MIL are as follows: As soon as a fault is identified, the MIL is activated, and both the DTC and the freeze frame data are recorded in the PCM memory.
It is possible to clear the MIL if the issue does not return during three consecutive trips during which the diagnostic is performed. When the battery is disconnected or when the scan tool Clear command is used, the MIL, DTC, and freeze frame data can be erased from the computer.’
Honda VTEC Oil Pressure Switch Tips
Variable Valve Timing with Electronic Control (VTEC) is an abbreviation for this technology. VTEC and VTEC-E are the two VTEC technologies used by Honda. The VTEC system was the first, and it was launched in 1991 to improve the performance of the 4-cylinder engine and other vehicles. Later, VTEC-E was added to reduce emissions while simultaneously improving fuel efficiency. The two systems, VTEC and VTEC-E, govern valve actuation and valve lift through the use of solenoids, which engage to supply oil pressure to the valve timing system, which is controlled by the solenoids.
Switch for Valve Timing and Oil Pressure ‘ data-medium-file=’ data-large-file=’ loading=’lazy’ ‘ data-large-file=’ data-medium-file=’ id=’longdesc-return-34807′ tabindex=’-1′ src=’ alt=’Valve Timing Oil Pressure Switch’ src=’ alt=’Valve Timing Oil Pressure Switch’ width: 301 pixels, height: 152 pixels longdesc=’ referrer=34801′ longdesc=’ referrer=34801′ data-lazy-src=’ srcset=’data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAP/yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7′ data-lazy-src=’ srcset=’data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAP/yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAA This usually open switch is placed at the variable valve timing solenoid and controls the oil pressure of the variable valve timing.
- It is expected that the voltage will decrease to zero when the VTEC oil pressure switch is closed.
- When this system is unable to function properly, the ECM may generate a fault code.
- Each code requires further investigation before the solenoid or the VTEC oil pressure switch can be declared defective.
- It is impossible for the pressure switch to detect a problem since it is situated before the screen.
- The filter should be checked first if you unplug the solenoid and there is no difference in engine power when you do so.
- Oil that is contaminated might clog the screens that are used to supply oil to the solenoid.
- Take a look at all of the NAPA Online products available, or visit one of our 17,000 NAPA AutoCare stores for regular maintenance and repairs.
Chat with a qualified professional at your local NAPA AUTO PARTS shop for additional information on Honda VTEC oil pressure switch tips. Featured image courtesy of Wikimedia Commons
NAPA Auto PartsView All
Over ninety years ago, the National Automotive Parts Association (‘NAPA’) was established to fulfill the rising demand for an efficient auto parts distribution system in the United States of America. In today’s market, the NAPA brand is recognized by 91 percent of do-it-yourself clients. We have over 6,000 NAPA AUTO PARTS Stores around the country, covering all 50 states, each with a unique inventory control system that assists you in finding the exact component that you want.
Amazon.com: Spool Valve VTEC Solenoid Assembly with Timing Oil Pressure Switch and Gasket for Honda CRV CR-V Civic Si Element Accord Acura RSX : Automotive
On June 25, 2017, a verified purchase was reviewed in the United States. In our 2002 Honda CRV, this part broke after 250k miles and forced us into ‘limp home’ mode, in which the engine will not rev over 3,000 RPM for the rest of the trip. It took less than 20 minutes to repair the defective item in question. Important Note: This device contains a filter screen that was entirely blocked when I opened it. I’m thinking that the heat buildup caused by the oil not flowing correctly caused the seals to fail.
- That small basin was completely loaded with what I believe to be the historical seal of the city.
- After it became blocked once again, I had to take mine off again.
- On December 17, 2019, a verified purchase was reviewed in the United States of America.
- Engine oil was changed and topped off, new plugs and coil packs were installed, and various other items were replaced.
- Despite the fact that the original vtec spool valve was filthy and this replacement was clean, it did not resolve the error number.
- UPDATE: Upon delivery, the sensor in this was found to be dead.
- Put this back in one more time just to make sure, and yep, it is, in fact, no longer alive.
In the United States, on April 16, 2018, a verified purchase was reviewed.
If you are mechanically inclined, this is a pretty easy and quick process.
It is recommended that you purchase this replacement component if topping off or replacing your oil does not resolve the problem.
The product was reviewed in the United States on November 12, 2018 and it was verified as a purchase.
I replaced the pressure sensor and switched to synthetic oil, but the problem with the error and performance continued.
This was replaced, and the car appears to be running smoothly—just it’s been a couple of days, but I assume everything is great.
Compared to the Honda component, this one appears to be comparable, and it even includes the heat shield.
Purchase that has been verified My tech has just returned from disassembling and reassembling the spool valve itself, which I had installed in approximately 20 minutes.
As soon as I installed the sensor from the old spool valve, the car instantly improved, and the issue was removed.
In other words, money was spent on the spool valve, but the electronics did not meet the requirements of the Honda PCM.
I’m curious if there is any genuine quality control testing performed against the Honda PCM electrical testing before this is promoted and sold.
Purchase that has been verified There is a suitable solution for the dreaded P2647 problem code in Honda VTEC engines.
Purchase an extra 10mm socket to have on hand.
The document was reviewed in the United States on April 15, 2019.
In addition, there was an oil leak at the valve.
Delivered on schedule and at a far lower cost than the local dealer, and it resolved all of my problems.
Purchase that has been verified The quality of this component looks to be on par with Honda’s standards, despite the fact that it is an aftermarket part.
It is recommended that the passenger front wheel be removed in order to get access from behind. The component that I placed is performing well. The car accelerates over 3000 RPM without any lag or stuttering.
Top reviews from other countries
5.0 stars out of 5 for this product Delivered on schedule On March 8, 2018, a review was published in Canada. Purchase that has been verified It appeared to be a nice component, and it solved my problem.
If you dont think your vtec is working.maybe this.
First and foremost, several people are unaware of the fact that vtec is a very minor feature on a sohc motor. I was worried that mine wasn’t functioning, but after getting my hands filthy to diagnose it, it turned out that it was fine; all you have to do is know precisely what to look for at exactly the correct moment, and then you’ll know it’s working. Here are a few measures to take in order to determine whether or not there is an issue. 1.) First and foremost, let’s get the mechanical issues out of the way before we go into the wiring.
- VTEC is regulated by oil pressure, and it will not function properly if there is insufficient oil.
- Also, make certain that your automobile is well warmed up.
- Make certain you are traveling at speeds more than 20mph (pretty much a given that you will be so dont worry about it.).
- It may be found above the valve cover on the passenger side, adjacent to the fuel rail, and is easily accessible.
- To remove the solenoid from the head, you must first remove the three bolts that keep it in place.
- It may or may not be blocked with muck at any one time.
- Clean it, reinstall it, then test it out by driving your car to check whether it works.
The wiring, which is not that difficult if you have a little experience, will be the next step because you have virtually completed everything mechanically to ensure that everything works as intended.
I’m not sure how many there should be, but I believe there should be two.
Unplug the clip from the wall.
Make a connection between the wire and the metal clip that is located on the inside of the disconnected clip.
It should click if everything is done correctly and the solenoid is in proper operating condition.
It is this click that causes the third set of lobes on your camshaft to be pushed together.
Otherwise, your solenoid is most likely malfunctioning.
Please keep in mind that in order for VTEC to function properly, you must be driving your vehicle.
4.) At this point, if every test that you have performed has been successful, the problem is most likely with your ecu or the wiring that connects the ecu to the solenoid itself.
Before we dive into that, let’s see whether we can manually activate the vtec from inside the car while driving.
Please believe me when I say that working with someone else is far more convenient.
Instead of just connecting the wire to the clip, figure out a method to attach it to the clip to the point where you can release go and it will still have a very tight and secure connection with no open link play, according to the manufacturer.
The length of the cable must be more than previously since, rather of connecting it to the battery, you will be connecting it into the automobile instead of the battery.
Connect the second wire to the positive end of the battery terminal and run the other end of that wire into the automobile with the other end of the other wire.
You should now have your cables in the car, preferably on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.
Beginning with each passenger holding each wire in their respective hands, continue pulling the automobile into second gear.
If you do this, you should be able to manually activate vtec without relying on the ecu signal.
THIS MEANS THAT IT IS NOT CONTROLLING FOR CERTAIN VTEC CONDITIONS, SUCH AS OIL PRESSURE OR ENGINE TEMP, WHEN THE ENGINE IS ON.
When the wires come into contact, you should definitely notice a difference; that is, if your vtec is functioning properly.
I think it was because I knew precisely when vtec was going to activate, therefore I knew exactly what to look for at exactly the perfect time when it did.
Now it’s time to move forward.
Once again, reconnect your vtec plug and give your car a test drive to see if you can detect any difference now that you understand what it should feel like.
I’m sorry, but I won’t be able to provide you with all of the essential information here due to a lack of time; but, that is exactly what the good ol’ internet is for, right?
Once the harness has been removed, you will need to find it.
You might also check with your local Honda dealership, since they may carry what you’re looking for.
Once again, you’ll need a partner for this.
Until vtec is reached, the meter should indicate very, very low voltage on the display.
If this is not the case, it is possible that your ecu is not operating correctly.
If the problem persists, you may require a new electronic control unit.
Determine how far you can trace the cable that you used to test VTEC from your ecu to the VTEC clip beneath the hood that you unlpugged before.
Hopefully, this discussion may be of use to anyone who is experiencing difficulties with their vtec activation. I believe the most of you would agree that vtec enguagement questions come up rather frequently. thanks
Ultimate VTEC Solenoid Guide
Is your VTEC system no longer functioning, yo? In this article, we’ll go through the numerous VTEC solenoid problems that might occur and how to go about resolving them.
- What is the function of the VTEC solenoid
- In what ways does a malfunctioning VTEC solenoid manifest itself
- What is the location of the VTEC solenoid? Instructions on how to test a VTEC solenoid
- How to remove a VTEC solenoid from its housing
- When it comes to the price of a VTEC solenoid, Conclusion
Although we at Drifted aren’t afraid to poke fun at Honda aficionados, we are well aware of the frustration that may come with vehicle dependability concerns. I mean, we generally drive Nissans, so that should tell you everything you need to know! Putting aside the sarcasm, despite the fact that Honda is frequently at the forefront of dependability, the company isn’t getting any younger, and many fans have reported problems with their VTEC solenoids along the road. Even as recently as the 1960s, extracting as much power as possible from existing engines was the newest craze to sweep the automotive industry.
- Alfa Romeo would integrate a whole new technology into their newly-launched Alfa Romeo Spider 2000 in the 1970s – a mechanical variable-valve timing (VVT) system – as the years proceeded.
- Honda didn’t get into the VVT game until 1989, when they released their version – VTEC, YO!
- While the previous generation of Nissan’s NVCS system changed the phasing of the cam shaft, the VTEC system shifts to a different cam profile at high engine speeds, resulting in increased maximum horsepower and torque.
- (Sorry, we couldn’t help ourselves!)
What does the VTEC solenoid do?
Although we at Drifted aren’t afraid to poke fun at Honda aficionados, we are well aware of the frustration that may be caused by vehicle dependability problems. That should tell you all you need to know about us. After all, we mostly own Nissans. In all seriousness, despite the fact that Honda is frequently at or near the top of the list for reliability, the company isn’t getting any younger, and many fans have reported problems with their VTEC solenoids along the road. Even as recently as the 1960s, extracting as much power as possible from existing engines was the newest craze to sweep the nation.
A mechanical variable-valve timing (VVT) system was introduced into the newly-launched Alfa Romeo Spider 2000 in the 1970s, marking the beginning of a new era for Alfa Romeo automobiles.
Honda didn’t get into the VVT game until 1989, when they released their version – VTEC, YO!
While the previous generation of Nissan’s NVCS system changed the phasing of the cam shaft, the VTEC system shifts to a different cam profile at high engine speeds, resulting in increased maximum output and performance.
B16A engines were the first Honda engines to use variable valve timing (VTEC), and Civic, CRX, and Integra owners were well-known for exclaiming ‘VTEC JUST KICKED IN, YO!’ at every chance as their engines started to rev up. Unfortunately, we couldn’t help ourselves!
What are the symptoms of a bad VTEC solenoid?
The most common symptom of a VTEC solenoid failure is the appearance of a check engine light, followed by the vehicle entering limp mode, which frequently leaves you fearful of the worst possible outcome. Fortunately, even if the VTEC solenoid is no longer functioning properly, you have the option of leaving it in place or unplugging it until the problem can be resolved, which we recommend doing as soon as possible rather than waiting. In the short term, this will not result in a higher lift cam, and the engine will not function nearly as efficiently, particularly at higher rpm.
Having said that, we do not advocate disabling the VTEC solenoid for an extended period of time because it can result in the engine running rich, which can result in a harsh engine idle and a reduction in fuel economy.
Although changing the gasket can resolve this issue, we’ve seen plenty of instances where owners have done so only to have the solenoid or oil pressure switch fail shortly after.
Where is the VTEC solenoid located?
As you’ve already suspected, the VTEC solenoid may be found in a variety of locations depending on your Honda model, so it’s worth searching the web and watching YouTube videos for guidance on where to locate it in your engine compartment. It was determined that this video provides the most accurate representation of what you’re searching for and where you’ll locate the VTEC solenoid in the engine compartment of a Honda CRV: And here’s another one for the K24 owners out there to consider. Because certain models may require jack stands in order to access the solenoid, it’s a good idea to double-check before proceeding with the work.
How to test a VTEC Solenoid
It’s not always obvious whether or not the VTEC solenoid is to blame for your problems, but here are a few popular techniques to cut down the list of alternatives.
The VTEC solenoid may appear to be malfunctioning if you’re having an oil leak from around the device, but this is most likely due to a deteriorated gasket, which can be easily replaced. Because most VTEC systems are over a decade old, this is a typical problem caused by the rubber deteriorating over time. Despite the fact that this isn’t a major problem, we recommend having it addressed as soon as possible to avoid a huge oil leak.
We’ve seen many owners change the gasket kit only to have the solenoid break shortly after. Because the solenoid is frequently approximately the same price as the gasket kit, we recommend changing it while you’re already doing the work.
If you don’t have a leak, but you’re concerned about anything else, you can check the oil pressure of a hot engine using a mechanical gauge. We’d expect to see approximately 30 psi there, so keep an eye out for that.
The next step might be to use a voltmeter to ensure that the VTEC solenoid is properly grounded, as demonstrated in this video:
Given that there are no visible problems and that you have confirmed that the solenoid is grounded, it’s time to check to see whether there are any error codes in the system, in which case you’ll need to use an engine code reader to find out. The need of this step is likely to become much more apparent if you currently have an engine warning light illuminated on your dashboard instrument cluster. You might be able to get away with borrowing an engine code reader from a buddy, despite the fact that they are a useful instrument that can be acquired for an affordable price.
The most prevalent code that indicates a possible VTEC malfunction is P1269, which indicates that either the oil pressure switch or the VTEC solenoid is malfunctioning in most instances.
How to remove a VTEC solenoid
To begin, switch off your engine and let it to cool, making sure that it has been idle for at least an hour since its last usage. In our experience, working on hot engines is not enjoyable – ask us how we know this! Following the discovery of the solenoid for your individual model, you’ll need to remove the two electrical connectors – normally grey for the solenoid connector and green for the oil pressure sensor – that are connected to it. Due to the likelihood of oil spilling out during the following stage, we recommend placing an old cloth or rag under the region to ensure that the leakage is kept to a minimum.
Whenever a solenoid is located in a confined place, we’ve found that the smaller quarter-inch ratchet with an extension generally serves the job well.
It’s really that simple.
Using brake cleaner to remove any debris from the mating surfaces prior to re-fitting new gaskets is recommended if you choose to replace your old ones.
How much does a VTEC solenoid cost?
Although many owners prefer to change the gasket kit in order to repair a leaky VTEC solenoid, it is typically more cost-effective to replace the solenoid in its entirety, since it is significantly less likely to fail in the long term. When it comes to changing the VTEC solenoid, prices can vary significantly, with the Honda S2000 models being far more expensive than the more popular alternatives. We’ve heard of bids for replacing the VTEC solenoid that are more than $500, including work.
Nonetheless, because it is a straightforward procedure that can be completed with a few basic equipment, we strongly advise carrying out the process yourself with the information found online or enlisting the assistance of a friend.
Genuine OEM Honda VTEC Solenoid (15810-RAA-003)
- Made by Honda
- Model number:15810-RAA-003
- Fits the following vehicles:Honda Element 2003-2011 2.4L
- Honda Accord 2003-2007 2.4L Honda Civic (2002-2005) 2.4L 3.0L (2.4L 3.0L) 2.0L Honda Civic Si (2006–2011) – Honda Civic Si (2006–2011) – Honda Civic Si (2006–2011) Honda CR-V from 2002 to 2009. 2.4 LAcura RSX 2002-2006 2.0L Acura RSX 2002-2006 The cura RSX – Type S was produced between 2002 and 2006. The Acura TSX was produced from 2004 to 2008. The following is the purchase link: Genuine OEM Honda VTEC Solenoid (15810-RAA-003).
Our comment:Given the very low cost of this VTEC solenoid, we find it difficult to justify the time and work required to change a whole gasket kit, and we would much prefer to replace the entire unit instead. Despite the fact that there are less expensive third-party alternatives available on the market, we believe that this choice is appropriately priced and does not warrant opting for the less expensive alternatives, which are unlikely to match OEM quality. We strongly advise you to double-check that this is the exact item for your vehicle before making a purchase.
Genuine OEM Honda S2000 VTEC Solenoid (15810-PCX-A03)
- Model number:15810-PCX-A03
- Fitment:2000-2009 Honda S2000
- Purchase link:Genuine OEM Honda S2000 VTEC Solenoid (15810-PCX-A03)
- Model number:15810-PCX-A03.
Our comment: Unfortunately, when it comes to repairing the VTEC solenoid, S2000 owners will have to pay a bit more money than other vehicles. If you’re experiencing oil leaks around the VTEC solenoid, it may be worthwhile to try replacing the gaskets alone to see if this resolves the issue. You may get replacement gaskets for your vehicle by clicking here.
Genuine OEM Honda K-Series Gasket Kit
- Model numbers:15815-RAA-A02 and 15845-RAA-A0191319-PAA-A01
- Fitment:2002-2006 Acura RSX Base, Type S
- 2007-2001 Honda Civic Si
- Model numbers:15815-RAA-A02 and 15845-RAA-A0191319-PAA- Genuine OEM Honda K-Series Gasket Kit is available for purchase at this site.
Our opinion:If you own a K-Series vehicle and are wanting to replace your gasket kit, there are some fairly priced OEM options available, such as this one. However, we would recommend replacing the whole VTEC solenoid in order to attempt to prevent problems down the road.
Genuine OEM Honda S2000 VTEC Solenoid Gasket (15825-PCX-015)
- Genuine OEM Honda S2000 VTEC Solenoid Gasket (15825-PCX-015)
- Model number:15825-PCX-015
- Purchase link:Genuine OEM Honda S2000 VTEC Solenoid Gasket (15825-PCX-015)
Comments:For S2000 owners, this original OEM gasket kit is great for attempting to repair the perished rubber gasket on your current solenoid, which may be leaking oil at the time of your purchase. If you are having any additional troubles in addition to oil leaks, we strongly advise that you use the VTEC solenoid stated above.
A problem with your VTEC solenoid is likely to leave your car bumbling around in limp mode, producing a fraction of the power you’re accustomed to, with your engine not even being able to rev higher than 3,000 rpm. Although some motorists may be concerned that they will be saddled with a hefty repair price as a result of this, this is not the case in most instances. While a leaking gasket can occasionally be the source of the problems, we’ve heard of numerous owners who have spent the time and effort to disassemble the solenoid and replace the gaskets only to have the solenoid itself fail shortly after.
Owners of the Honda S2000 are likely to feel the squeeze a little more acutely, since the VTEC solenoid used in these models is far more expensive than those found in more common vehicles such as the Civic, Accord, and CR-V.
Whether you choose to replace the solenoid fully or only the gasket, we always urge that you use extra caution while removing the bolts and that all of the mating surfaces are clear of impurities and debris when re-installing the solenoid.
Not keeping up with frequent maintenance may frequently lead to clogged-up oil containing debris that will eventually choke up the pathway to the solenoid, plus many other concerns.
That’s all there is to it! We hope that we’ve covered all you may want to know about VTEC solenoids in this article.
Thank you for reading our VTEC solenoid guide.
If you enjoyed this post, please spread the word by clicking on the social media buttons at the bottom of your screen. If you find this information to be valuable, please take a time to forward it on to other Honda and VTEC fans who may benefit from it. We are grateful for your assistance.
We would like to acknowledge the following organizations for the usage of their photographs in this article: Written by Joe Terrell, the creator of Drifted.com, a motorsports writer, and all-around automobile enthusiast. More information about Joe and the Drifted crew may be found on ourabout us website.
P1259 VTEC System Malfunction
There are a few special tools required: a pressure gauge adaptor (07NAJ-P07010A-A/T) and a pressure gauge. Pressure gauge with a panel for low pressure Pressure Hose 07406-0070300-A/T 07406-0020201-A/T 07406-0020201-A/T 07406-0020201-A/T Hose with a working pressure of 2,210 mm 07MAJ-PY4011A-A/T Pressure Adaptor 07MAJ-PY40120-Oil Pressure Hose 07ZAJ-S5AA200 07ZAJ-PY4011A-A/T Pressure Adaptor The first step is to reset the ECM/PCM. To accomplish this, you must remove a fuse from beneath the hood.
6 in the series).
Step 3) Start the engine and shift the car into park if you have an automatic transmission or into neutral if you have a 5-speed transmission.
When it’s time to go for a drive, accelerate in first gear until the engine speed reaches above 4000 rpm.
If DTC P1259 does not appear to be repeated on the initial test drive, perform the procedure two more times.
Check for faulty connections or loose terminals at the VTEC solenoid valve, at the VTEC pressure switch, and at the ECM/PCM.
If you have a NO, proceed to Step 6.
Step 6)Remove the resonator.
The middle section, which connects component A to that extension pipe over near the battery.
Please keep in mind that if you have an aftermarket intake, you will most likely need to remove it and replace it with your original intake.
The remaining stages will be completed as soon as possible.