Speedometer doesn’t work ABS light on? (Best solution)

Make sure that your ignition key is turned on. Check if you get “No light” on both terminals. There may be no power to your fuses, including things like seat heating, anti-lock brake, and reverse lights. Your speedometer and odometer should be fixed, this way and your ABS light should turn off.

• might experience an ABS light on and no speedometer operation. The most likely cause is a bad, intermittent, or weak signal from the rear speed sensor.

Can a bad ABS sensor cause speedometer not working?

The abs wheel speed sensors are not going to directly affect the speedometer so unfortunately you wasted your $ on those. The VSS, vehicle speed sensor, is usually responsible for giving signal for the speedometer.

Does ABS sensor affect speedometer?

No effect unless you are braking and the speedometer indicates a corresponding reduction in speed. Motorcycles with an ABS system use the ABS wheel speed sensor on the front wheel to calculate and display the road speed of the vehicle.

What can cause a speedometer to stop working?

The most common causes of a speedometer that stopped working include are a faulty speed sensor, a broken gear on the speedometer, damaged wiring, or a faulty engine control unit.

Will bad speed sensor cause ABS light?

ABS Light is illuminated on the dashboard Since the wheel speed sensor also monitors the anti-lock braking system on your car, it’s common for the ABS Light to illuminate when the sensor is worn out, disconnected, or has been struck by debris, which means you’ll have to replace the wheel speed sensor.

What are the symptoms of a bad ABS sensor?

The most common symptom of a bad ABS sensor is an ABS warning light showing up on your dashboard. You may also notice issues like a pulsating brake pedal while braking or a complete loss of the anti-lock brake system.

What are the symptoms of a bad speed sensor?

5 Common Bad Speed Sensor Symptoms

• Transmission problems.
• Erratic speedometer readings.
• Inability to engage cruise control.
• Lack of torque converter clutch application.
• Check Engine Light is triggered.
• An internal electrical fault in the speed sensor.
• Damage on the sensor itself.
• Poor vehicle maintenance.

Can a bad wheel bearing cause the ABS light to come on?

On many modern cars, a bad wheel bearing will trigger a warning light. The ABS or traction control warnings will often illuminate, since a bad bearing will trip the system to deactivate.

How do I fix my speedometer?

Press and hold the calibration button located on the speedometer, start the vehicle, and then release the button. Press that button again and then take the test drive. Once you have driven the distance needed, press the button once more and the speedometer will calibrate itself to accommodate the new tire size.

Speedometer not working and abs light on

Many individuals experience problems with their speedometer not operating properly. Some drivers have reported fluttering or gauges that are not reading correctly on their instrument cluster. Others become aware that their tachometer or odometer is giving them an incorrect reading and seek assistance. Others, on the other hand, have noticed that their speedometer is extremely inaccurate only in specific situations. For example, they may realize that their speedometer has entirely stopped working after performing a battery change or jumpstarting their automobile.

It is possible that your car’s speedometer is not working and that the ABS light is illuminated.

It’s possible that you’ll be able to resolve the problem in the following method.

Check to see that your ignition key is in the on position.

• It is possible that your fuses, which include devices like seat heaters, anti-lock brakes, and reverse lights, are not receiving electricity.
• That, too, may be checked using a light source.
• This should correct the readings on your speedometer and odometer, and it should also turn off your ABS light.
• In the event that you are not a skilled mechanic, you may decide that it is not worth your time to do this task in the first place.
• Safety Restore specializes in the repair of all types of speedometer problems, and they will be able to fix your device for as little as $118.99!
• If you are interested in receiving this service rather than doing any repairs at home, simply go to safetyrestore.com to find out more information.

Speedometer doesn’t work, abs, brake light on.

An increasing number of customers are experiencing problems with their speedometer not functioning properly. On their instrument cluster, several drivers have reported fluttering or erroneous gauge readings. Others become aware that their tachometer or odometer is giving them an incorrect reading and take action. Yet some people have reported that their speedometer is quite inaccurate in certain situations. Suppose they realize that their speedometer has entirely stopped working after changing their battery or jumping starting their automobile.

1. The ABS light may be on in your automobile if your speedometer is not working.
2. As a result of the following steps, you may be able to resolve your problem.
3. Double-check to see that your ignition key is in the ‘on’ position.
4. You may have to ‘jump power’ from a separate row of fuses that are not utilized other than to provide power when the ignition is turned on in order to correct the problem.
5. After that, you’ll need to strip both ends of the short wire and jump it from one top terminal to another top terminal, which will take some practice.
6. It is possible, though, that this will not be effective in your particular circumstance.
7. You should contact Safety Restore if this is the case and you do not want to go another day without your speedometer functioning properly.

The company’s instrument cluster gauges repair service offers a quick turnaround time of 24 hours and is backed by a lifetime warranty assurance as well. Simply go to safetyrestore.com if you are interested in having this service performed rather than doing any repairs on your own.

ABS light on, speedometer doesn’t work

If you own one of the vehicles mentioned below and your ABS light is illuminated or your speedometer is not working, you should read this page carefully. Owners of these automobiles include: The years 1998 to 1999 Dodge Durango is a mid-size pickup truck. 3.9L2000 – 2000 liters Dodge Durango is a mid-size pickup truck. From 1998 to 2000, the 4.7L scale was used. Dodge Durango is a mid-size pickup truck. From 1998 to 2000, the 5.2L was in use. Dodge Durango is a mid-size pickup truck. It is possible that the 5.9L will have the ABS light illuminated and the speedometer will not function.

1. In order to assess whether or not the rear wheels are spinning at a different pace than the front wheels, the sensor measures the movement of teeth in a notched wheel and transmits that information to the ABS controller.
2. If you want to check the rear speed sensor, you must first separate the electrical connector from the sensor, which is situated on the back differential.
3. It should have a resistance reading between 1600 and 2800 ohms.
4. Moving on, if it does provide the right reading, go to the following test.
5. Locate the red/violet and white violet wires on the board.
6. To assess resistance, connect your ohmmeter to these two terminals and repeat the process.
7. The connector should be disassembled, the crimp connection undone, and the terminals’ connections to the wire soldered together.
8. Rick Muscoplat was born in the year 2012.

See also

Speedometer not working, ABS light. HELP!

Here’s a situation that’s quite similar, except it’s intermittent. Is it anything that can be readily fixed? Hello, everyone. The installation of a new radiator in my 2000 9-3 by a local technician resulted in the emergence of a slew of additional problems. The car is frequently in fine working order first thing in the morning. Then, after a few miles, everything happened at once. After that, I observed that there was something really wrong with the turbo, which I discovered after the ABS light came on, the main console light came on, the warning system chimed, the speedometer went out, the odometer and trip counter frozen at whatever number they were on.

It just reaches the barrier and comes to a complete halt, as if it had hit a stone wall.

Is it possible that the intermittent nature of the speedometer / ABS problem indicates that the ABS module itself is not the source of the problem?

Is there something easier that I should look for initially, such as a specific relationship, to get me started? Please accept my apologies; I am not particularly knowledgeable about automobile systems. Thanks

ABS, Brake lights all on and Speedometer not working!

1. Although we are experiencing a very identical situation, it is only occurring sometimes. Are there any straightforward solutions? Dear Friends and Family, I had to get my 2000 9-3 serviced since the radiator needed to be replaced. After getting the radiator replaced, I started experiencing all kinds of other problems. Sometimes, when you get up in the morning, your car runs flawlessly. After a few miles, everything happened at once. It started with the ABS light on, then the main console light and then the warning system chiming, then the speedometer going out, then the odometer and trip counter freezing at whatever number they were on, and then I realized there was something really wrong with the turbo. When the needle in the turbo meter reaches the yellow band, it no longer engages and opens up as it once did. Simply said, it stops when it reaches the border, much as it has struck a brick wall. This is my query, and I’m not sure whether these two things are linked, but it’s still there. Is it possible that the intermittent nature of the speedometer problem and the ABS problem indicates that the ABS module itself is not the source of the problem? Should I start with something smaller, such as a specific link, to see if it would help. Please accept my apologies for my lack of expertise in automobile mechanics. Thanks

ABS Light On, Speedometer Not Working

Here’s a situation that’s quite similar, except it’s just intermittent. Is it anything that can be readily corrected? Hello and welcome to everyone. After having my 2000 9-3’s radiator replaced by a local repair, a slew of new problems have arisen. The car frequently performs flawlessly first thing in the morning. Then, after a few kilometers, it all happened at once. It started with the ABS light on, then the main console light and then the warning system chiming, then the speedometer going out, then the odometer and trip counter freezing at whatever number it was on, and then I realized there was something really wrong with the turbo.

It just reaches the barrier and comes to a complete halt as if it had hit a stone wall.

Is it possible that the intermittent nature of the speedometer / ABS problem indicates that the ABS module itself may not be the source of the problem?

Please accept my apologies; I am not particularly knowledgeable about automobile mechanics.

ABS Light on, Speedometer, and Odometer not working. Flashing OD light. ***Resolved***

The obdlink module is already installed on my computer. I have not, however, purchased the complete version of forscan at this time. Is it really worth it? I’m well aware that the obdlink app does not like my truck. Here is the list of forscan items that I currently have. After changing the vss and left them undone, I forgot to remove the batteries from the battery charger. But no matter how many times I try to erase the codes, the you never seem to go away. Even though I’m aware that my truck has several problems, I haven’t gotten around to tackling them all yet.

• In this case, the OBDII DTC was successfully read, and no fault codes were discovered.
• High Boost Sensor A Circuit on the Turbo/Supercharger (Code: P0238).
• Turbo/supercharger Boost Sensor A Circuit is operating at a high level.
• = The PCM DTC P1249 indicates that the PCM is malfunctioning.
• Details about the Diagnostic Trouble Code for the Powertrain Control Module are shown below.
• = The PCM DTC P0500 indicates that the PCM is malfunctioning.
• Details about the Diagnostic Trouble Code for the Powertrain Control Module are shown below.

Activate the VSS circuit.

Among the possible causes of this DTC are: Suspect VSS.

PCM under investigation.

DTC P0603 is a PCM DTC that stands for ‘End PCM’ in the PCM DTC hierarchy.

Powertrain Control Module is a module in the powertrain control system.

KAPWRcircuit should be opened.

This DTC may be caused by the following:If a recent PCM disconnect or battery disconnect is suspected, no action is necessary unless the code reappears after it has been cleared.

If reprogramming has been completed, clear the codes and unlock the car.

DTC P1211 is a PCM DTC that indicates the end of the PCM.

=END PCM= P0500 indicates a failure in the VSS sensor circuit.

Fault in the VSS sensor circuit.

VSS circuit has been shorted.

On the transmission output shaft, there is a worn or damaged VSS drive gear.

Instrument cluster module that is faulty or damaged.

Computer-Aided Overhead Trip Signal Link Failure of the circuit Operator Involvement Carry out a self-test.

Note: DTCs that begin with the letter ‘U’ represent problems that occur during module-to-module communication.

There is no guarantee that these codes signal a problem, as they might be created by routine diagnostic activities performed on the vehicle.

Electronic Crash Sensor is a module.

— Battery voltage is less than 9.6 volts.

Specifics on Diagnostic Trouble Codes Faulty ignition key in the circuit – Possible Causes and Effects -This DTC can be produced by the following circuits:-Open Key-In Ignition Switch circuit – Short circuit between the battery and the key-in ignition switch – Ignition switch RUN/ACCY circuit is shorted due to a shorted battery – Suspect Ignition Switch – Suspect Lighting Control Module – Suspect Lighting Control Module =END GEM=GEM DTC B1310=Code: B1310 – Power door unlock circuit failure =END GEM= Generic Electronic Module (GEM) is a generic electronic module that may be used in a variety of applications.

1. Specifics on Diagnostic Trouble Codes Failure of the power door unlock circuit – Possible Causes and Effects -This DTC might be caused by the following:-Opening the Driver Central Lock Switch Code: B1300 – Power door lock relay coil circuit failure.
2. -Suspect Generic Electronic Module.
3. Module: Generic Electronic ModuleDetails of the Diagnostic Trouble Code Failure of the power door lock relay coil circuit – Possible Causes and Effects Failure of the power door lock circuit Open circuit, short to ground, or short to battery are all possible outcomes.
4. Module that is not working properly DTC B1217 (Horn Relay Coil Circuit Failure) is the last GEM DTC to be shown.
5. A suspect door is left ajar, and the alarm goes off.

((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((( Following the installation of the complete version, I was able to get the codes to remove. So we’ll have to wait and see whether any of them return.

Abs light, brake light, speedo not working.

Thank you for your help; I believe I have worked it out. After further consideration, I concluded that it was not the ABS module because the speedometer was stuck at zero and would not move. I came to the conclusion that this indicated a sensor issue because you’re supposed to be able to remove the ABS module and still drive the truck even though you won’t have ABS, but everything else should continue to function properly because the speed sensors will be providing the data to the electronic control module (ECMI).

I also grounded the contact points for all of the grounds and made sure they were clean and securely fastened.

I discovered today that there were a total of three sensors on the transfer case, all of which had the same component number, which completely altered my perception of the situation, since I had previously assumed there was only one sensor.

According to what I’ve heard, the ones that are capable of accomplishing this are quite pricey.

After reaching the top sensor, the light turned off and the pedometer began to function properly again.

According to my theory, the sensor was failing and only operating occasionally; when I replaced the first sensor, it was just coincidental that it had been out for 100 miles before turning back on again.

Thank you for sharing your thoughts.