Starter just goes click? (Question)

It might be a battery or alternator problem. Perhaps your battery’s dead, or your alternator, which charges the battery, isn’t working correctly. If the source of the clicking is electrical, the starter (a small motor energized by the battery that gets the engine running) doesn’t have enough juice to stay powered.

  • That clicking noise usually comes from the starter, and there are two reasons why a starter makes a clicking noise instead of starting your car. The most common reason is that the starter has failed. The other reason is that the battery does not have enough power to turn the starter. Why does the car make that distinct “clicking” noise?

What causes a starter to just click?

A dead battery is the most common cause of a clicking noise when trying to start your car. Usually, you will hear a rapid succession of clicks. The noise indicates that the starter solenoid or relay is operating, but there isn’t enough battery current to turn the starter motor.

Will a bad starter still click?

One of the symptoms of a bad starter is a clicking noise when you turn the key or push the start button. However, a starter can die without making any sound at all, or it may announce its impending death with whirring and grinding noise—so listen up!

What does it mean when starter relay clicks?

If your starter relay has gone bad, the electrical signal will never make it from the battery to the starter motor. A faulty relay often produces an audible clicking sound when you turn your car. Contact a mechanic immediately if your car fails to start and you notice this sound.

How do you tell if its your starter or your battery?

Last, Check The Starter The battery sends a burst of energy to the start which uses this energy to turn the engine over and get it car started. If you put the key in the ignition, but only hear a click when you turn the key, you’ve got a problem with your starter.

Can a solenoid click and still be bad?

If you do hear clicking, the solenoid may be engaging, but not sufficiently. Hearing clicking without the starter motor moving means the solenoid is transferring the electricity, but it may not be enough. No clicking means the solenoid is not properly engaging, but this may also be due to a dead battery.

What are the signs of a bad starter solenoid?

As a result, the common signs of a bad starter solenoid include:

  • Engine Doesn’t Crank or Start.
  • No Clicking Noise When Trying to Start the Engine.
  • Starter Spins Without Fully Engaging the Flywheel (Rare)
  • Engine Cranks Slowly (Rare)
  • Test the battery.
  • Check That Power is Getting to the Starter Solenoid.

Will a bad starter drain your battery?

A faulty or bad starter system can drain your car’s battery leaving it useless when in need. A good starter system draws only the amount of power it requires for initiating. Logically, a bad starter can drain a car battery by drawing too much power even when it is not in action.

Can a starter lock up an engine?

A bad starter can lock or seize an engine. That’s because the starter is primarily what causes the engine to start in the first place. So, if your starter is bad, it will naturally make it more difficult for the engine to start and cause it to lock up as a result of how it struggles to start.

Why does my car not start but the battery is good?

If your vehicle won’t start, it’s usually caused by a dying or dead battery, loose or corroded connection cables, a bad alternator or an issue with the starter. It can be hard to determine if you’re dealing with a battery or an alternator problem.

Is a relay bad if it clicks?

If you hear or feel the relay click, the relay and its wiring aren’t the problem. But if it’s not clicking, the problem could be in the relay itself or in the wiring. You should hear and feel the relay click. If you don’t, the relay isn’t working.

Why Is My Starter Clicking?

Dan Ferrell is a writer who specializes in do-it-yourself auto maintenance and repair. In the field of automation and control technology, he holds credentials. It is possible that a depleted battery is causing the starting clicking. Ellsworth Air Force Base in South Dakota provided the photo.

If Your Starter Clicks, the Usual Causes Are:

  • A battery that is not up to par
  • Battery wires that are loose, broken, or rusted
  • Starter solenoid or relay that is not functioning properly
  • It might be a faulty starting motor. There is an excessive amount of ground resistance.

The starting motor requires up to 250 amps or more (depending on the type) in order to provide the considerable torque required to turn the engine over and start the engine. As a result, anything that interferes with the required current load will result in issues with the starting motor. When this interference manifests itself at the starting solenoid or relay, you’ll often hear it as a clicking sound (or a succession of quick clicking sounds) to your ears. With a simple set of tests performed with a digital multimeter, the vast majority of automobile owners can determine the source of the problem (DMM).

Because most current flow, starting motor, and starter solenoid problems present themselves as a single click or a sequence of clicks, you’ll find a section dedicated to each of these concerns.

After running the initial tests and failing to obtain definitive findings, run the tests in the next section to ensure that you are not dealing with more than one problem.

Contents of This Article

1. The Operation of a Starter Relay or Solenoid 2. I can hear the starter clicking quickly in the background. Resistance measurement of the starter shielded circuit Resistance measurement of the starter ground circuit 3. I can hear the starter clicking once in the background. Test the starter solenoid or the remote starter relay. An on-starting solenoid and starter motor assembly are included in this package. Featured image courtesy of Willdre on Wikimedia Commons.

1. How a Starter Relay or Solenoid Works

A relay, often known as a solenoid, is a type of electromagnetic switch. When electricity travels through this device, it generates a magnetic field due to the presence of a coil within. This magnetic field pushes a metal plunger, which effectively joins two electrical contacts or posts that are ordinarily separated from one another. The battery is connected to the starting motor through these two posts. When you turn the ignition key to the Start position, electrical current is sent to the relay or solenoid coil.

Once the engine is started, the relay or solenoid is no longer in operation.

However, if there is insufficient power to drive the starting motor, the magnetic field around the coil will draw and release the plunger in a repeating cycle for as long as the ignition key is in the “Start” position on the vehicle. It’s for this reason that you hear a sequence of clicks.

Read More from AxleAddict

if the starting motor receives complete battery power but does not move the engine, the plunger in the solenoid will remain fast against the two electrical contacts, waiting for the starter motor to turn the engine, if this occurs. A defective motor, solenoid, or relay, on the other hand, will result in nothing happening. You may hear a single, firm click coming from the starting relay or solenoid as a result of this phenomenon.

About Vehicle Starting Circuits

Some car types, such as Ford, employ a remote starting relay to activate the starter motor, whilst others employ a solenoid placed on the beginning motor. Other versions, on the other hand, may employ both a starting relay and a starter-mounted solenoid. Keep this in mind when testing solenoid circuits that are installed on the starter. Check the schematic in your car repair manual to see if a relay or solenoid is being utilized, and then do the test. This handbook is available for purchase on Amazon for a pretty low price if you don’t already have one.

As a result, you’ll see a quick return on your tiny investment.

The image is courtesy of MarkBuckawicki on Wikimedia Commons.

2. I Can Hear the Starter Clicking Fast

It is common for current flow to present itself as a succession of rapid clicks or chattering emanating from the starting relay or solenoid when the problem is caused by current flow. This is undoubtedly one of the most common starting system failures, which is likely due to the fact that severe temperatures, corrosion, and wiring difficulties may all have a negative impact on current flow and the car battery’s overall performance. The following tests will assist you in identifying the problematic component in the circuit that is preventing the complete current flow to the starting motor from occurring.

Inspect the battery:

The most typical cause of a clicking, no-cranking, no-start scenario is a drained or discharged battery. First and foremost, perform a brief examination of the battery:

  • Examine the case for signs of damage. Verify that the electrolyte level is enough (on removable-cap batteries)
  • Rehydrate and recharge your battery as needed by adding distilled water to the cells.
  • Examine the battery connections and wires for signs of looseness or corrosion
  • And

Measure the state of charge of the battery: If you have recently charged the battery or driven the car, remove the surface charge from the battery by turning on the high beams of the headlights for one minute. Turn them off, wait for two minutes, and then go to the next stage in the process.

  • Close all of the doors and turn off all of the accessories to ensure that no electrical circuits are operational or a light bulb is on.
  • Connect the DMM leads across the battery connections as follows:
  • With all accessories switched off and the battery temperature between 60 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit (15 and 37 degrees Celsius), you should obtain between 12.4 and 12.6 volts across the battery terminals. If you obtain a reading that is less than 12.4 volts, this indicates that your battery is not fully charged. It is possible that there is an issue with the battery itself, the charging method, or the circuitry
  • However, this is unlikely.

It’s important to remember that this test will not inform you whether or not your battery is capable of producing the amperage required by your starting motor to function correctly. It simply provides you with an indication of the current condition of your battery or the current state of charge. Using a hydrometer to investigate the battery’s status, or having it tested in an auto shop, you can determine whether there is an issue with the battery. If your battery passes all tests but you discover that it is not completely charged (at least 12.4 volts or more), check to see that the alternator and its circuit are in proper functioning order.

Following that, you’ll check the beginning circuit. High resistance on the power side of the starting circuit should be checked. Thanks to ak4marsx on Flickr for sharing this photo!

Testing the Starter Insulated Circuit

It is the goal of this test to examine the red, high-current wires that transfer battery power to the starting motor. Here, you’ll use a digital multimeter to check for voltage drop (resistance) in this section of the circuit. In the case of a large voltage drop, a high resistance in the circuit will be revealed, which may prohibit the starting motor from operating correctly. High resistance may be produced by one or more of the following:

  • Corroded cables or wires
  • Loose connections
  • Frayed wires
  • Carbon buildup in the contacts of the relay or solenoid
  • And other issues.

The following steps should be followed in order to test the insulated circuit: Determine whether your starter motor is equipped with an on-starter solenoid (a cylinder mounted on top of the starter motor) or a remote-type relay, which is typically mounted on the fender well and connected to the red battery cable.

  1. Disable the gasoline system by disconnecting the fuse for the fuel pump from the circuit breaker box. You may also deactivate the ignition system by detaching the ignition module from the rest of the system. Alternatively, a remote starting switch can be used. Check your vehicle’s maintenance manual if it is necessary
  2. And Put the gearbox in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual) and start driving. Make sure your voltmeter is set to the lowest range on the DC volts scale. Connect the red lead of your meter to the positive (+) battery post, and the black lead to the starter wire of the solenoid, or to the battery terminal on the starter if your motor is equipped with a remote-type relay (see illustration). Maintain a safe distance between your meter’s leads and any moving engine parts when doing the test
  3. While you are reading the voltage drop on your meter, have an aide turn the ignition key to the Start position on the car. Typically, you’ll see a voltage decrease of between 0.2 and 0.6 volts on your readout. Typically, you can expect to see a voltage drop of 0.1 volts between the ends of a single wire.
  • You should repeat the test if the voltage drop reading is too high by connecting your black lead to the next connecting point in the insulated circuit, which should be closer to the battery. The final element to check is the connection between the positive battery post and the terminal that connects to the post. A normal voltage drop reading indicates that the problem is located between that location and the preceding high resistance or high voltage drop reading. On-starter solenoids should be troubleshooted as stated in section 2, I Can Hear the Starter Clicking Once
  • If the insulated-circuit voltage drop reading is within an acceptable range, the solenoid should be replaced. With remote-type relays, if you get a high voltage drop reading on the starting side terminal but a normal voltage drop reading on the battery side terminal, troubleshoot the relay as indicated in Section 2, I Can Hear the Starter Clicking Once
  • And Section 3, I Can Hear the Starter Clicking Twice.
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High resistance on the starting circuit ground (engine block) should be checked. Andy Arthur’s photo is courtesy of his Flickr account.

Testing the Starter’s Ground Circuit Resistance

The ground circuit test determines whether the current return channel in the start circuit is functioning properly. You should have your ignition and fuel systems turned off, your parking brake engaged, and your gearbox in Park or Neutral before proceeding.

  1. Using the black meter lead, connect it to the negative (-) battery terminal. Connection of the red meter lead to the starting motor casing is required
  2. However, keep the leads away from moving engine components. While you are reading the voltage drop on your meter, have your helper turn the ignition key to the Start position on the car. Generally speaking, you should see a voltage decrease of little more than 0.2 volts. If you obtain a higher reading, you should:
  • To take a voltage drop measurement in each of these locations, move your red meter lead to a clean surface on the engine block, then to the chassis, and finally to the ground terminal connection of the battery
  • In this case, the fault will be located between the low voltage drop measurement and the prior high voltage drop measurement. Typically, a corroded or loose connection, or a broken wire is to blame.

If you want a more in-depth explanation of this circuit diagnosis, please see this page on how to do a starting circuit voltage drop test. If you hear a single firm click when attempting to start the engine, it is likely that the starting motor is malfunctioning. On Wikipedia, the image is courtesy of Masi27185.

3. I Can Hear the Starter Clicking Once

Beginning motor problems are frequently manifested by a single, loud click emanating from the starter relay or the starter solenoid. In most cases, this indicates a malfunctioning relay or solenoid, as well as a faulty or jammed starting motor. Check to see whether it works by first rocking your automobile back and forth a few times. Alternatively, you can tap the starter motor with a rubber mallet and attempt to start the engine again if necessary. It is important not to hit the starting motor too hard since you may shatter or break an internal component, rendering the motor inoperable.

If this is successful, you are ready to proceed.

If this does not solve the problem, proceed to the next step.

Battery Voltage Feed Test

  1. Remove the ability to start the engine or use the fuel system
  2. In either an automatic or manual gearbox, place the vehicle in Park, and then depress and hold the parking brake. Set the DC voltage scale on your multimeter to a range that is greater than the battery voltage, typically 20 volts
  3. And Connections: Connect the red lead of your multimeter to the battery terminal on the starting solenoid or to the battery-side terminal on the remote starter relay, and connect the black lead of your multimeter to the negative post of the battery. To obtain a voltage reading, instruct your assistance to switch the ignition key to the Start position and read the voltage. A positive battery voltage at the terminal (often between 10 and 12 volts) should be obtained.
  • In any other case, carry out the insulated and ground circuit checks outlined in the preceding section. If you obtain adequate voltage, go to the next solenoid or relay test
  • Otherwise, stop.

Starter Solenoid or Remote Starter Relay Test

This test will assist you in determining whether or not the starting solenoid or relay is functioning properly:

  1. Set your gearbox to Park (if you have an automatic) or Neutral (if you have a manual). Make sure that the ignition and fuel systems are turned off to prevent the engine from starting
  2. Connect the red lead of your voltmeter to the solenoid battery terminal and the black lead to the starting motor strap if you’re working with an on-starter solenoid. Connect the red lead of your voltmeter to the battery terminal on the relay and the black lead to the starter terminal on the relay if you’re using a remote-type starting relay. Request that a second person turn the ignition key to the Start position. Check your voltage loss by doing the following:
  • Ensure that the heavy battery cable is not damaged or loose when using an on-starter solenoid. If you have a voltage drop more than 0.2 volts, replace the solenoid. If required, tighten the cable or clean the terminals before re-running the experiment. The starter solenoid or starter assembly should be replaced if the voltage loss continues to be excessive. If you see a voltage loss more than 0.2 volts on a remote-type starting relay, check to see that the heavy cables are properly connected and free of corrosion. In case a visual check is required, detach the connections and perform another test, if necessary. If the solenoid fails the test a second time, the solenoid or motor assembly should be replaced.
  • Remove the tiny wire from the relay’s control circuit terminal by pulling it out with your fingers. It’s possible that you have a tiny wire that looks similar to this that connects to the ignition bypass terminal. Take care to unhook the control circuit connection from the power source. Set the Ohms scale on your digital multimeter. Using your meter leads, connect them between the control circuit terminal and the relay mounting bracket
  • You should not receive a reading more than 5 ohms. If this is the case, the relay should be replaced.

In addition, a seized engine or an issue with the ignition timing might cause your solenoid to emit a single click but not allow the engine to begin to run. A seized engine might occur in the following situations:

  • Running the engine without oil causes the engine to overheat and run until it locks
  • The ignition timing belt or chain breaks
  • Causing the engine to lock up.

Depending on your needs, the seized enginepost can assist you in checking your engine.

4. Dealing With a Starting Clicking Issue

If your starting motor clicks or chatters, you may find a concise summary of troubleshooting advice in the video to the right. Having problems with your car’s starter is not unusual, especially as it becomes older.

However, the majority of the time you’ll be dealing with a problem with a cable, connector, or component. When attempting to start your automobile, always pay attention to the amount of clicks that you hear throughout the process.

  • If you hear a chattering sound, it is most likely because not enough current is being sent to the starting motor. Most likely, you’ll hear a single click, which indicates that something is amiss with the starting motor, solenoid, or relay.

Following the procedures outlined below should assist you in diagnosing the problem and getting your vehicle back on the road as quickly as possible. While the information contained within this article is factual and truthful to the best of the author’s knowledge, it should not be used as a substitute for formal and personalized counsel from a competent expert.


Is it the same thing to have a starting solenoid and a starter relay installed? Answer:They are both used for the same purpose. A solenoid is typically referred to as the component that is installed on the starting motor itself. A starter relay is a sort of remote starter that may be found in several Ford cars. Dan Ferrell is a 2019 alumnus.

Car Clicks When Trying to Start? 5 Common Causes

You would most likely be correct. The source of that terrible clicking noise is frequently found to be the battery, and the solution can be as easy as a jump-start or tightening a connector wire. One click, on the other hand, is likely to indicate that the problem is with the starting motor (more on that later). If you hear a lot of clicking, here’s what you should look out for:

1. Battery Drained

First and foremost, did you leave the headlights or an interior light on, or did you do anything else that caused the battery to be depleted while you slept? If this is the case, a set of jumper wires and another car with a decent battery should be enough to have you back up and running in no time.

2. Cables, Connections and Corrosion

Second, look for wires that are linked to the battery and check the clamps for them. It is possible that they have become loose due to road vibrations and are no longer making proper electrical contact, in which case they must be tightened. A simple procedure such as removing the wires and wiping away the muck may be sufficient to reestablish excellent connections if corrosion has formed on the terminals.

3. Bad Battery

Then there’s the matter of the battery itself, which may or may not be able to maintain its charge. According to where you live and how often you drive, batteries might last anywhere from less than three years to more than six. Most auto parts retailers will test a battery for free to determine whether or not you require one.

4. Alternator Issues

Alternatively, if all of the above checks out, it is possible that the alternator, which creates the electricity that recharges the battery, is not performing its function. It is true that activating the starting motor takes a significant amount of the battery’s stored energy, and that the alternator is designed to refill it, but if your battery is capable of receiving a charge and tests OK, it will need to be rejuvenated between starts. In order to establish whether or not an alternator is in proper operating order, a technician needs examine it thoroughly.

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  • And other questions.

5. Starter Motor

A issue with the starting motor or solenoid is likely to be the cause of a single click while the battery seems to be fully charged (the headlights, audio, and other gadgets all function properly). When the solenoid is activated, the starting motor cranks the flywheel and starts the engine. The solenoid is a switch that engages the starter motor. Unless you’re an experienced do-it-yourselfer when it comes to vehicle maintenance, this is something that should be diagnosed by a professional. Rather than attempting to diagnose the problem on your own, it’s best to speak with a professional rather than guessing which parts need to be repaired or replaced.

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Your Car Won’t Start & You Hear a Clicking Noise

It’s eight o’clock in the morning. You pack your belongings into your SUV. When you turn the key in the ignition, you discover that, despite the fact that you are ready to face the day, your automobile is not. It won’t start, and there’s a clicking sound coming from it. Why? And do you have the ability to get back on the road quickly? With Firestone Complete Auto Care, you can find out. We’ll go through the most typical causes of an engine that won’t start but produces clicking noises, as well as how you might be able to temporarily resolve the problem.

If you hear rapid clicking.

When you try to start your automobile, you may hear a quick clicking noise, which indicates that something is amiss with the electrical system. It’s possible that your battery has died or that your alternator, which charges the battery, is not functioning properly. If the clicking is caused by an electrical problem, the starter (a small motor driven by the battery that starts the engine) may not have enough power to keep the engine going. As a result, it rapidly turns on and off while making a clicking sound!

  • In all likelihood, your vehicle’s electrical system is to blame, which is why ajumpstartmight be able to briefly get your vehicle rolling again.
  • It is possible that you may need to replace your alternator or battery.
  • You are not alone if you are experiencing difficulties with your automobile battery.
  • Get a head start on a failing battery or an electrical problem by visiting Firestone Complete Auto Care for a complimentary check and free battery test*.

If you hear a single click…

In contrast to an electrical problem, a problem with the starter or starter relay (a switch-like mechanism that delivers power to the starter) will cause a single loud clicking sound rather than a series of fast clicking sounds to be produced. When you turn the key or press the start button, you may hear a single clicking noise, which indicates that the starter is not working properly. It is possible to restart the engine by tapping the starter, but there are no guarantees. It’s probable that you’ll need to get your starter serviced or completely replaced.

Don’t make the mistake of assuming you can go back on the road without the clicking noise returning.

Starters may last anywhere from 30,000 miles to 200,000 miles depending on how often they are used.

The lifespan of a starter can be reduced by factors such as inclement weather and the state of the engine.

That is why we put forth tremendous effort to ensure that your day gets off to a terrific start! To get a free battery check and a remedy for a car that won’t start but makes a clicking sound, stop by your local shop today.

Why Is My Car Making a Clicking Noise When Starting?

An overcharged battery is the most typical cause of the quick clicking noise that occurs when your automobile fails to start. A single click, on the other hand, might indicate a faulty starting motor or something much more sinister. The following are the most common reasons why a starter clicks when you are attempting to start your vehicle:

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Car Starting Basics

When the ignition key is turned on or the “Start” button is pressed, battery power is sent through the ignition switch to the starter relay or starter solenoid, and the computer receives the information (ECM). The starting motor is activated by the relay/solenoid, which acts as a switch. A pinion gear (also known as a Bendix Drive) is engaged by the starter motor, which meshes with and rotates the flywheel ring gear, delivering full battery power to the starter motor and starting the engine. The flywheel rotates the crankshaft, which causes the pistons in the cylinders to move up and down in their chambers.

And then your engine kicks into gear!

So What’s That Clicking Noise?

When you hear a clicking sound when you start your car, it typically implies that the starter motor’s pinion gear is collapsing into the flywheel, which is caused by a low battery that doesn’t have enough “energy” to turn the engine.

Multiple clicks (rapid clicking)

Rapid clicking typically indicates that there is enough power in the battery to activate the starting motor but not enough to turn the engine over completely. When it is unable to start your engine, the starting motor alternates between turning off and turning on. It makes a clattering sound every time it starts because the teeth of the pinion gear clatter on the teeth of the flywheel. That clicking sound you’re hearing is actually the clicking of a mouse.

Single click

A single loud click while starting (even after attempting to jump-start your battery) is typically caused by a malfunctioning starter motor, starter relay/solenoid, or other electrical problem, and should be addressed immediately. If, on the other hand, your engine has locked up (seized), the starting pinion will crash into the flywheel, resulting in a loud clunking noise as it attempts to crank the engine back up.

What To Do When My Car Won’t Start (Multiple Clicks)

Warning: A car battery contains sulfuric acid, which can cause serious burns if it comes into contact with the skin. Working around a battery or jump-starting a car should always be done with gloves and eye protection on. Any direct contact with battery acid should be flushed out promptly with plenty of water, followed by medical assistance. When you hear clicking, jump-starting your automobile while taking all necessary safety procedures is usually the quickest option to get your car up and running.

Battery Terminals

Battery cables are linked to the battery terminals on your battery pack. A corroded or loose terminal connection reduces electrical power flow from your battery to your starter, which prevents your automobile from starting even with a jump start. It should be possible to restore complete electrical power to your automobile by removing the cable ends, brushing off any rust with a wire brush, and retightening the nuts.

Battery terminal maintenance is something that may be done by the homeowner. Make sure that the negative battery cable connection at the engine block is clean and secure as well as it may be.

Starter Motor

When you try to start your automobile, you may hear clicking or grinding sounds. This might indicate that the starting motor has failed, which could also explain why ajump was unsuccessful. Overheating a starting motor as result of a hard-start scenario can cause internal mechanical or electrical components to be damaged, resulting in the starter being rendered ineffective at “cranking” the engine. Another problem is that the voltage of the battery drops before it reaches the starting relay wire or connection because of a loose or corroded starter relay wire or connection.

Charging System Problems

A faulty alternator might prevent a battery from completing its charging cycle. A worn or loose drive belt, as well as a faulty belt tensioner, may also prevent a battery from charging completely. Although replacing a drive belt is a do-it-yourself project, alternator and charging problems should be left to the professionals.

What To Do When My Car Won’t Start (Single Click)

If your automobile won’t start, jump-starting it is still the most straightforward DIY project. Occasionally, the combined power of two batteries (your car’s battery and an assistance battery) can be used to liberate a jammed starting motor.

Whack the starter

You can try hitting the starting motor with a hammer, your shoe, or the tire iron from your trunk if you can safely reach it. It is possible for the electrical connections to become jammed, and this may be resolved by tapping on the starter.

Recycle the key

Ten times in a row, turn the key to the “Start” position (or press the “Start” button) on your keyboard. Continue to wait for five minutes before attempting to start your engine. If none of these remedies work, call for a tow truck.

The Last Word

Despite the fact that there is no basic starter motor maintenance, weak batteries, as well as starting and electrical system issues, degrade the life of the starter motor. Problems that are causing the cranking to take a lengthy period of time should be identified and corrected as soon as possible. Check your battery terminals once a month to ensure they are clean and tight, that the battery fluid levels (in batteries with detachable caps) are proper, and that the battery is securely fastened.

Car Clicks When Trying To Start? (5 Causes & How To Fix)

What could be more unpleasant than rushing into your car in the morning when you are in a hurry and just hearing a clicking sound when you turn the key? Fortunately, this is a common problem that is frequently simple and inexpensive to resolve. However, in order to do so, you must first understand the fundamentals of the problem, as well as where you should begin your search. In this post, we will go over the most frequent reasons why your car is clicking when you try to start it, as well as provide you with a step-by-step guidance on how to remedy the problem.

The most typical cause for your automobile to click while it is trying to start is that the battery is dead or completely depleted.

In the majority of situations, simply charging the automobile battery will resolve the problem. A more in-depth list of the most typical reasons why your car’s engine clicks when you try to start it may be found below.

5 Causes of Car Clicking When Trying To Start

When it comes to this issue, the most frequently encountered problem is low voltage from the automobile battery. Actually, I would guess that in 90% of situations, this is the source of the problem when your automobile refuses to start when you try to turn it on. It is possible that the problem is caused by an electrical component in your automobile sucking electricity while the vehicle is turned off, or if you failed to turn off the parking lights several hours before. Another possible cause is a defective vehicle battery, which is particularly problematic if you reside in a cold region where the battery requires a significant amount of power to start the engine in cold weather.

In the long run, however, it is unlikely that this will be sufficient to resolve the issue.

If the automobile battery is damaged, it should be replaced.

If you do not have the necessary equipment or skills, you should have a professional vehicle mechanic complete this task for you.

2. Bad/faulty starter motor

In the second place, a bad startermotor is the most frequently encountered issue. An internal solenoid is housed within the starting motor, which is pushed out at the same time as you are moving the starter crank handle. If the solenoid becomes stuck or fails to work correctly, you will hear a click from your engine even if the engine does not turn on or switch off. It can also be caused by other broken elements within the starter’s internal circuitry. If the starting solenoid does not react when external power is applied, this may typically be determined relatively quickly by connecting an external power source to it.

Please see this link for further information on diagnosing the problem: Car Starter Does Not Engage.

3. Loose or Corrosion on battery terminals

The presence of loose battery terminals on a car battery is another prevalent issue when it comes to a car that clicks but won’t turn over on its own. Someone may have forgotten to tighten them during the previous repair of your vehicle, resulting in a deterioration of the contact between the connectors and the terminals over time. When the car starter is turning the engine over, it draws a significant amount of power from the battery, and if the contact is damaged, you may hear a clicking sound as it does so.

After trying to crank the engine for a bit, you may feel with your touch on the terminal to see if there is anything wrong. If it is heated, it is likely that there is a problem with the connection. However, be cautious since they can be quite hot to the touch.

4. Ground Strap problem

There is a large ground cable running between the engine and the body of your automobile, which serves to ground all of the components placed on the engine. Power will be restricted and it will be impossible to start the car’s engine if there is a problem with either the ground cable between the body and engine or the ground cable between the car battery and the body. This is a rather prevalent problem that is worth investigating. You can test whether or not the problem is resolved by connecting an external jumper cable between the automobile engine and the negative battery terminal.

5. Broken Power Cable

Because of the failure of the huge power cable to the starter, insufficient power will be sent via it to the starter, resulting in the automobile engine failing to start. Despite the fact that this problem is not as widespread as the other concerns listed above, it is certainly worth checking for if you are unable to identify any other problems. Additionally, inspect the connector at the starter and the car battery to ensure that the cable connector bolts are properly adjusted and that the cable connector has a secure connection.

If they are heated, this indicates that there is a faulty connection that has to be repaired.

❤️ Starter clicking ❤️ What Are The Causes and The Symptoms? ❤️

While driving in your car and trying to get someplace on time, one of the most frustrating things that may happen is that your automobile won’t turn over or won’t start at all. When you turn the key in the ignition, it may or may not start. Alternatively, you may insert your key into the ignition and it will spin, but the engine will only rev and not switch on. What do you do now that your heart is pounding in your chest? Automobile repairs are EXTREMELY EXPENSIVE. Unfortunately for the majority of drivers, this problem is ubiquitous and reasonably simple to identify, as well as simple to correct.

Because this is a very frequent problem, and many drivers have reported having problems with the starter clicking, it is possible that the problem and a remedy will be more readily available.

In this section, we will go over the most prevalent sources of the problem and demonstrate how to resolve it.

Causes of why your car clicks

While it comes to the starter clicking and creating sounds from your engine when you are attempting to turn the key in the ignition and start your car, there are a few issues that are very typical. If you are having troubles with your automobile not starting, then you should look into the following possible causes.

Low battery voltage

The most typical cause of the starting clicking is low voltage from the car battery, which is the most common problem encountered. When there is insufficient current flowing through the battery cell system, the voltage of the automobile battery drops. When the automobile battery voltage reaches a specific point and becomes too low, there may be a discharge, which may give the impression that the battery is no longer functional. When a low battery voltage is the root cause of the starting clicking, there are several possibilities.

Many individuals are unaware that things that are always in use, such as the radio, music devices, and other electrical components, can have an impact on the performance of a battery.

Because most car batteries do not have dual purpose capabilities, such as the ability to provide starting power to both the alternator and smaller devices, they may be forced to rely solely on the alternator, which can result in overheating and draining of the battery, resulting in the starter clicking noise.

In order to charge the vehicle, the chargers must send adequate amperes to the battery, which varies depending on the kind of battery and vehicle.

It is possible that the charger is not functioning properly, which can result in further damage to the battery as well as the onset of the starting clicking.

Faulty Starter Motor

In the second most typical scenario, a malfunctioning starting motor might result in the starter clicking. The starting motor has a solenoid built into the mechanism that is designed to be pushed out at the precise same time as you are cranking the starter to turn on the engine of the vehicle. It is possible to hear the starter clicking from your engine if the solenoid does not operate properly or becomes stuck during operation. However, the engine will not be able to turn over. Poor wiring connections, such as a loose trigger wire or a bad ground connection, can cause the starting motor to malfunction and cause the starter to click.

See also:  Camry Power Window Reset, window initialization? (Best solution)

As an added bonus, it is possible that a faulty solenoid is responsible for the starting clicking.

Furthermore, a faulty beginning motor might create overheating in the starter, which can result in the starter clicking and malfunctioning.

Finally, a faulty ignition switch can result in the failure of the starter motor, the failure of the ignition switch, and the clicking of the starter.

Loose battery terminals

An additional typical problem is loose battery connections on the automobile battery, which can cause the starting motor to get damaged, resulting in the clicking sound that occurs when the car starts. The loose battery terminals might have been caused by a repair technician neglecting to tighten the terminals after the repair, resulting in corrosion or rust on the connectors and terminals after usage. A significant amount of power can be drawn from the battery when the automobile is rolling over and attempting to start.

Some of the signs of loose battery connections that might cause the starter to click while starting the car include valve difficulties and starting the vehicle with a faulty battery.

In addition to the obvious corrosion, because the terminals are in close contact with the battery and are exposed to its acid vapors, the next indication that the batteries are loose is their failure to connect.

Additional to this, a loss of electrical power can be caused by a loose battery terminal, which occurs when the termination is excessively rusted or has cracked, and results in the starter clicking as a result of this.

A terminal that has been significantly corroded does not form a proper electrical connection and can result in a loss of power.

Ground Cable Problem

Another possible reason of the starting clicking is an issue with the ground cable. If the ground cable connecting the body to the engine, or the ground cable connecting the battery in the car to the body of the car, is damaged, the power flow will be interrupted and restricted. In other words, the engine’s power will not be sufficient to turn the engine over. This is a frequent problem that is worth examining, and it is likely that local mechanics and auto repair shops are already aware of it.

Bad engine grounds and starting clicking can be caused by a variety of factors, including loose, corroded, or broken ground terminals or wires, a loose or damaged ground battery connection, or improper component installation or maintenance.

Poor automobile grounds and the starting clicking create a great deal of paint and corrosion, oily surfaces, frayed or broken wires, and loose connections, among other things.

Broken Power Cable

A faulty or broken big power cable leading to the starting will result in insufficient power being transmitted via the cable to the starter, which will manifest itself as clicking from the starter. If not enough power is sent to the starter, the engine will be unable to crank and provide sufficient power to the vehicle. Although this problem is not as widespread as other concerns and the reason of the starter clicking, it may still be remedied by a qualified mechanic who has the necessary experience.

  1. Due to the fact that the battery cables are responsible for transporting power from the battery to the car’s whole electrical system, any problem with them might result in a reduction in the vehicle’s capacity to conduct electricity, which can result in problems starting the vehicle.
  2. In addition to difficulties starting the car, corrosion on the battery connections might result in the brake power line becoming disconnected from the vehicle.
  3. Corrosion can develop as a result of the acidic vapor created by the battery when it becomes too hot to be exposed.
  4. This results in an increase in resistance along the contact surface of the terminal and the termination of electrical flow.
  5. Another sign is that there is no power to a car when the cables get broken or corroded to the point that they are unable to create a clean connection with the battery, resulting in the starting clicking sound.

It is possible that you have noticed that turning the key does not switch on the power to the accessories, the cranking engine, or the inside lighting.

How To Diagnose the Starter Clicking

Now that you’ve learned the causes of what might cause the starter to click and the symptoms of this problem, you might be wondering how to examine the various components to determine where the problem is and how to diagnose it. First and foremost, make certain that the battery is in good working order. When it comes to these difficulties with the starting clicking, a dead car battery is generally the most prevalent cause, therefore this should be the first thing you look for. The most straightforward method is to use jumper cables to jump start the car battery, or to use a jump starter that has protective features built in to ensure that the car battery is not damaged.

  1. Check to be that the jump starters are completely charged before connecting them to the battery terminals and attempting to crank the vehicle.
  2. An alternative method of diagnosing the start clicking is to make use of a jumper cord.
  3. Take a jumper cable and connect it to a clean ground point on the engine and the negative battery terminal to resolve the problem.
  4. Another method of determining the source of the starting clicking is to check to see whether the solenoid becomes stuck in the on position.
  5. It is possible that you have a defective starting or a starter solenoid, which causes the starter to click, if the starter starts turning over while you are tapping the star.
  6. If all of the tests came back negative and the engine is only making a clicking sound when you turn the key in the ignition, it is possible that the starter is the source of the problem.

This is Why Your Car is Clicking and Won’t Start

If you purchase a product after clicking on one of our affiliate links, The Drive and its partners may get a commission. More information may be found here. An car is like to a nation with many distinct voices that is interconnected. If you pay attention, you’ll realize that every mechanical element has two tones: the usual tone and the disturbed tone. An example of a squeak for aid, a knock for help, and various clicking sounds are all possible. However, a clicking sound can originate from a variety of sources, such as the suspension, but the most common and well-known clicking sound occurs when the ignition key is turned or the ignition button is depressed.

We’re here to assist you in any way we can. The Drive’s in-depth information team has put up a guide on identifying and treating the clicking issue at its source. Let’s get this party started.

Why is Your Car Making a Clicking Noise?

A problem with the electrical charging system and/or the starter is most likely to blame when your automobile won’t crank, won’t turn over, won’t start, and responds to your commands with a single click or rapid-fire click, click, click, click, click, click. If you have these symptoms, it’s possible that you have an issue with your wiring connections, battery, battery terminals, or alternator.

Repeated Click

If you hear a chattering sound or a clicking sound that keeps repeating, you’re most likely dealing with a problem with your battery or alternator. A click can be heard as the system repeatedly attempts to start the engine since the starter is not receiving enough electricity in order to stay energized and crank it. Take the following actions to get a resolution:

  1. Attempt to jump-start the automobile. If your vehicle starts but then stops, it might be due to a problem with the alternator. Drive about for a while to charge the battery, then park it with the engine running on a trickle charger while not in use. If it starts up correctly the following time, that’s fantastic
  2. You could have been lucky. If this is not the case, move to the next step. Examine the wiring and battery cables for any problems. Check that all of the wires are in excellent working order and that they are in their proper placements
  3. Also check the battery cable connections.
  1. If the battery terminals are corroded, follow the instructions in How To Clean Battery Terminals on The Drive. If the connections are loose, tighten them.

If the noise continues, check the battery voltage using a multimeter to ensure that it is at the proper voltage. When the car is not in use, a fully charged battery should read 12.6 volts on the voltmeter. Ideally, it should read roughly 13.7-14.7 volts when the vehicle is running (which is not achievable in this situation). The battery will need to be recharged and/or replaced if the voltage is low on the battery. For further information, please see The Drive’s tutorial on How to Change a Car Battery.

Most large auto parts retailers, such as Advance Auto Parts, will test batteries, starters, and alternators for free, but you must bring your car to the store in order to take advantage of this service.

Single Click

You are most likely hearing the sound of a single click, akin to a light knock, which indicates that your starting or starter relay is malfunctioning. Some of the other signs of a failed starting include a grinding or rumbling sound, as well as an inability to spin the starter crank. After determining that the problem is with your starter, proceed with the replacement procedure described below.

The Drive’s Garage Guide To Replacing Your Starter

You are quite capable of completing this task on your own. Gather your equipment and follow the procedures shown below to have your new starter churning in no time.

Replacing Your Starter Basics

Time Estimated to be Required: 1-2 hours Beginner’s level of ability System of the vehicle: the starter


If you’re working on your automobile, it may be risky and nasty, so make sure you have everything you need to avoid getting hurt and/or losing a finger while doing so.

  • Mechanic gloves that are non-conductive
  • Safety eyewear
  • Shoes with a closed toe
  • Clothing that is slim-fitting and free of hard surfaces, conductive materials, or loose material

Everything You’ll Need To Replace Your Starter

Given that we are not psychics, nor are we prying into your toolbox or garage, we’ve compiled a list of everything you’ll need to get the task done.

Tool List

  • The following tools: socket set, screwdriver set, pliers, carjack, jack stands, and wheel chocks

Parts List

Organizing your tools and equipment for changing your starting such that everything is conveniently accessible will save you valuable time waiting for your handy-dandy youngster or four-legged assistant to bring you the sandpaper or blowtorch, which will save you time and frustration. (You will not, however, require a blowtorch for this task.) Please do not allow your child to hand you a blowtorch—Ed.) As well as having a level workstation, such as a garage floor, driveway, or street parking, you’ll also need a reliable source of electricity.

Check your local laws to make sure you’re not breaking any rules when you’re on the street since we won’t be able to get you out of jail on our own.

How to Replace Your Starter

Let’s get this done!

  1. If required, raise the vehicle. For further information, see The Drive’sHow to Lift a Car. To begin, remove the bonnet and unhook the battery connections. Locate the starting motor for the engine by consulting your dusty manual or conducting a fast Google search
  2. Remove any parts that are required to gain access to the starting motor. Disconnect any and all connections that are connected to the starting motor. Remove the beginning from the mix
  3. In order to use the new starter, the old one must be removed. Reattach any connections to the new starting that were previously disconnected from the old starter. Replace any pieces that have to be removed in order to gain access to the starter. Reduce the vehicle’s height
  4. Reconnect the battery terminals if necessary. Start the engine and let it run. It may not fire on the first try, so give it a couple more tries.

You’ve completed your task!

Get Help With Your Car’s Clicking Noise From a Mechanic On JustAnswer

The Driver understands that, despite the fact that our How-To guides are comprehensive and easy to follow, a rusted bolt, an engine component not in the proper place, or oil gushing everywhere can cause a project to go awry. So we’ve joined with JustAnswer, which links you to licensed mechanics all around the world to help you get through even the most difficult projects on time and on budget. So, if you have a query or are stuck, go here to speak with a mechanic in your local area.

FAQs About Your Car’s Clicking Noise

Whenever you have a question, The Drive has the solutions!

How Much Does It Cost To Replace a Battery?

A car battery can range in price from $50 to $200, depending on its use and specifications.

How Much Does It Cost To Replace a Starter?

However, the price of the item itself varies from $200 and $1,000, depending on your car. Professional labor will be more expensive for you.

What Causes a Bad Starter?

A defective starting can be caused by a buildup of oil, dirt, and debris in the starter, as well as loose connections, battery corrosion, and broken or damaged components. Age might also be a consideration.

How Much Does It Cost To Replace an Alternator?

Purchasing a new alternator will cost you between $250 and $1,000, but you may save money by purchasing a remanufactured alternator for between $150 and $500. However, if you have it properly installed by a technician, you will be required to pay for labor as well as the parts.

Can Disconnecting the Battery Fix the Clicking?

No way in hell. This specific problem cannot be resolved by following the classic IT adage of “turning it off and on again.”

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