- Worn out cable guides or a frayed window regulator cable can cause abnormal noises when the window is moving. For the same reason, the window may not go up or down all the way. In cold temperatures, the window may freeze in closed position.
Why will my car window roll up but not down?
Why Don’t Some Car Windows Roll Up? The window switch is functioning correctly, but the window motor has malfunctioned. You can usually identify this issue by the “grinding” noise created when pushing the window switch either up or down. The switch itself may be bad, either due to voltage problems or poor construction.
What do you do when your window won’t go down?
Here are some basic troubleshooting tips to try when your electric windows won’t roll up or down:
- Check the window safety lock-out switch.
- Check the fuses.
- Push the window switch up and down and listen.
- Push the window switch and watch the dash gauges.
- Try the other switches.
- Swap switches if possible.
How do I know if my window switch or regulator is bad?
Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Window Motor / Regulator Assembly
- It takes multiple presses to roll the window up or down.
- Window speed is slower or faster than usual.
- Clicking from the door when the window rolls up or down.
- Power window won’t stay up or is crooked.
How much does it cost to fix window that wont roll down?
The cost of fixing a power window depends on the parts that need replacing. The cost of labor also depends on the necessary repairs and the options your vehicle is equipped with. Because of that, the total cost can vary greatly, and is typically in the range of $100 to $300 or more.
How does a window regulator break?
One step before your cables break…they get worn out. This happens because of overuse, abuse or being overused in colder temperatures. In cold temperatures, the window may freeze in closed position. When the window switch is operated down, the window can separate from the window regulator.
Does each power window have its own fuse?
Check the fuse Other cars have individual fuses for each window motor so failure will only affect the one window. In some cars the fuse is in the main fusebox but many makers use in-line fuses so check with your manual to find where the fuse is and replace it if blown. Then test the window.
What causes the power window to stop working?
Window malfunctions are typically caused by a faulty window regulator (also called a window track), or a broken motor, cable pulley or window switch. Power window issues can be intermittent or permanent. Intermittent problems can cause windows to stop working temporarily only to work again and have more problems later.
What does a bad window regulator sound like?
If the window is able to move and you hear strange noises, this could be an early warning sign of a failing regulator. The noises may sound like grinding, clicking, or chattering.
How can you tell if a window fuse is blown?
If the fuse is blown, pushing a window button will do nothing at all: The motor won’t groan and the glass won’t quiver. If the fuse is good and you can hear the motor, or the glass acts like it wants to move, then you’ve got some sort of mechanical problem.
Can you force a car window up?
Hold the window shutter from the top and bottom and then take out the props supporting them. Tighten back the nuts that hold the window back to the regulator ledge. Ensure that you fasten the screws well. Then, place your hands beneath and above the window and pull it up as high as you can.
Window goes up but not down
Okay, so you believe your power windows are infected with evil. They certainly aren’t. However, what most people do not realize is that all of the power and ground connections are routed through the driver’s side master switch, which makes troubleshooting far more difficult. The three difficulty locations are as follows: Master switch (also known as the master switch) 2) There are damaged wires in the hinge region of the door. 3) Passenger switch (optional) 4) A window-operating motor 5) a faulty window control regulator When faced with a situation like this, the most straightforward technique is to check the fuses first.
Click here to get a PDF version of the wiring schematic.
If you click on the illustration, it will open a two-page PDF document for you.
It is important to note that electricity is delivered by two fuses.
- Car manufacturers do this in order to prevent power consumption from window functioning during the initialization process.
- Later on, you’ll see how this can have an impact on operation, causing a window to go down but not up, or a window to go up but not down, or a window to only function from one switch, among other things.
- Assume that the front passenger window does not operate when the passenger switch is pressed.
- Connect one lead to the ground with the help of a digital multimeter.
- If you are, then turn the master switch in the opposite direction and test for power on a different pin until you find it.
- Then alternately flick the master switch on and off.
If this is the case, the fault is likely to be with the passenger switch, the wiring between the passenger switch and the passenger motor, or the passenger motor itself.
Once this is done, remove the electrical connector from the motor.
You should detect a voltage difference of +12 volts and -12 volts.
If you don’t, look for a short in the wiring or a faulty switch to determine the problem.
These cables bend with each opening and closing of the door, and they do break sometimes.
The second option is that the master switch is defective. If you haven’t already done so, now is a good time to invest on a good wiring diagram for your vehicle. Rick Muscoplat was born in the year 2012. Rick Muscoplat posted a blog entry on
window motor only works to go up but not down
Yes, I’ve forgotten that we’re working with two cables here. I think it’s quite improbable that the ‘down’ wire is shorting out or coming free within the motor casing at this point. There is no such thing as a ‘down’ cable. There are two types of polarization: one that is one way and the other that is the other way. Neither the passenger-side switch nor the motor is affected by this problem. It’s possible that the problem is in the connecting cabling between the two switches. It’s more likely to be found in the actual switches themselves (passenger or driver).
- Let’s have a look at it again.
- The YELLOW wire is connected to 0V for the up signal and 12V for the down signal.
- At the motor, there is no up or down wire to speak of.
- Because it travels up, we may fairly conclude that THOSE cables are in good condition.
- Upon investigation, we discover that the RED/LTBLUE wire delivers 12V to the passenger switch, which supplies power to both the up and down positions.
- In addition, that issue has never been resolved.
- From studying the wiring diagram, I’ve determined that if the passenger side switch moves up but not down, the problem is in the switch because ground is carried through in both positions.
- If not, because the ground is formed on the driver’s side of the vehicle, let’s follow the wiring through to the driver’s side of the vehicle.
- If you have a faulty wire, this is where you will experience a break.
- And if everything is working properly, including both switches, why are you complaining about the window closing?
Having one broken inside the insulation is not a big deal; the insulation will still be intact, and you won’t notice anything wrong from the outside, unless you notice an unusual kink in the wire. RwP
Power window goes down, but not up
Ryan: It’s possible that you have damaged cables or a defective switch module, which is frequently the driver’s console. It is possible that the standard diagnostics will not identify damaged wires in the door boot, but will instead report a defective switch. It is necessary to detach the switch from the wire harness in order to test the switch on its own. If electricity is not being delivered to the switch, it is possible that a damaged wire or wires in the door boot are to blame. Another problem is that there should be a lock-out switch on the driver’s console that prevents the window switches at the rear windows from being used by the driver.
- There is, however, another fly in the ointment when it comes to automation in later model cars that have the express-up or express-down option.
- Ensure that your wiring schematic is correct if you have the express option.
- (This module is another another item that has the potential to fail.) When using the express option, the conclusion of the journey must be identified in order for the motor to be immediately switched off.
- It is necessary to identify the presence of a pet or youngster who might poke his head through an open window, or a person who might ride on top of the glass, in order for the engine to be turned off.
- If the motor load reaches a certain level, or if the load increases suddenly after beginning, the motor will shut down automatically.
- On my 1998 Jeep, I have a basic express-down system that only works when the window seals are cold, but the standard manual operation continues to work.
- One method of testing is to park the car in a warm area and wait for the doors to warm up before proceeding.
- If the problem remains despite the warmed doors, and you are not familiar with using a volt-ohm meter or reading circuit diagrams, it is time to seek expert assistance with your problem.
How to Fix a Stuck Car Window
A terrible scenario is having your automobile windows become stuck, regardless of whether they are jammed up or down in the vehicle. For those who are stopped in traffic, you can forget about the comforts of drive-through coffee and banking; for those who are trapped in traffic, a wet day may quickly turn into something far worse. When your windows refuse to roll up, regardless of whether they are powered or manual, you may figure out why they are not working by following a few simple steps.
Without any sophisticated automobile diagnostic gear, you may even be able to get your jammed window to roll up straight away if you’re lucky.
How Do Car Windows Work?
A device known as a regulator is used to raise and lower car windows that are contained within channels. Unlike automatic windows, manual windows have regulators that are physically attached to cranks, and turning the crank is the only way to raise and lower the window. Electric windows have regulators that are connected to motors, but they function on the same fundamental concept as manual windows. courtesy of Lynn Koenig / Getty Images As a result of the differences in components between manual and electric windows, they fail for a variety of causes.
- Electric windows: Electric automobile windows are normally operated by a reversible electric motor coupled to a regulator that raises and lowers the window glass as the vehicle moves. Various components such as the switches, wiring, and motor might fail, and the regulator can become jammed or fail completely. Manual automobile windows are operated by a hand crank and a mechanical regulator that raises and lowers the window glass within the vehicle’s interior door. If the lubricating oil in the regulator or crank runs out, the gears in the regulator or crank can strip, the regulator can bend and distort, and the regulator can also become stuck due to friction if the lubricating grease runs out.
Two Ways to Roll up a Power Window That Stopped Working
It is occasionally feasible to get a power window to roll up after it has been stuck, depending on the specifics of what went wrong with it. Alternatively, if the switch is working properly but the motor is not, you may be able to physically jar the motor while holding the switch in either the up or closed position. If the switch is working properly but the motor is not, you may be able to get the window to roll up one last time by physically jarring the motor. Here’s how to manually roll up an electric window that has been stuck without using any tools:
- Change the position of the ignition key to the on or the accessory position. You’ve got it in the perfect place if you’re able to control the other windows and switch on the radio at the same time. Press and hold the window switch in either the closed or up position for many seconds. It is critical that you keep the button pushed and that you push the side of the window that closes
- Otherwise, the window will not close. While holding down the window button, open and slam the automobile door in front of you. If it doesn’t work the first time, you can try it a couple of more times until it works. If it does work, and you continue to hold down the button, the window should roll up automatically. Do not roll the window down unless you are ready to truly address the problem. If the window rolls up, do not roll it back down until you are ready to genuinely fix the problem. It is possible that this temporary remedy will not work a second time. Closing the door and looking for a spot where the door panel appears to be in touch with the sheet metal inside the door may be necessary if the window still won’t roll up. Look on the internet for photographs of your automobile with the door panel removed if you are unclear where to start looking for the correct location
- Strike this spot with your fist or a blunt instrument while the switch is pushed to activate it. Precautions should be taken to avoid injuring your fist or damaging your door. If the window is rolled up, keep it in place until you are ready to address the situation. It will be necessary to determine if you have a faulty fuse, switch, or window motor, or to take your automobile to a specialist if the window still does not roll up properly.
The Window May be Out of Its Track
It is possible that the window regulator is malfunctioning or that the window has come off of its track if you hear a grinding sound when you try to roll it up or if you hear the motor operating at all. Following this procedure, if the window is not completely down, you may be able to roll it up.
- Change the location of the ignition key to the accessory position. Place your palms together with the window wedged between them while the door is open. Have a friend or family member push the window switch
- Apply pressure on the window with your palms and try to raise it up with your arms as well. It is possible that you will need to hold the window from the top in order to exert sufficient power. If you find yourself in this situation, be warned that the window may suddenly begin to move on its own. Watch out for getting your hands trapped in the window as it closes
- This can be dangerous.
Even if you have the window all the way down and hear grinding or see the window glass shake back and forth as you try to roll it up, you will not be able to close it without removing the door panel from the window frame. If you are able to remove the door panel, you may be able to raise the window up from the inside while simultaneously pressing the button on the switch.
What Can Cause Electric Windows to Fail?
Blown fuses, broken switches, and burned out motors are the three most common reasons for power windows to malfunction. Aside from wear and tear, it is possible for the window regulator to flex and become jammed, but this is less usual. The solutions to some of these issues are straightforward, while others need the use of specialized instruments and, in some cases, the assistance of a specialist. In the event that your electric windows would not roll up or down, here are some simple troubleshooting options to try:
- Check the window safety lock-out switch for proper operation. When the lockout switch is turned on, the windows will not be able to be rolled up or down. Because it’s simple to mistakenly hit these switches without recognizing it, double-check this first. Check the fuses to make sure they are not blown. Check the fuses if none of the windows are able to be opened or closed. Replace any blown fuses and give it another shot. If the fuse blows again, search for a short circuit to determine the cause. Do not use a fuse that is larger than the one suggested. Push the window switch up and down to hear what’s going on. When you push the switch, you should hear a sound from within the door, which indicates that the switch is operational. It’s likely that the electric window motor has failed, or that the regulator has been jammed
- Push the window switch while keeping an eye on the dashboard gauges. Another simple method for eliminating the possibility of a faulty switch. The volt indicator on your dashboard should move little when you push the button
- If it does, you have a defective motor. Try the other switches to rule out the possibility of a bad motor. Try rolling up or down the passenger side window using the primary switch, which is located on the driver’s side or in the center console, if that doesn’t work. If it works, then the switch on the passenger side is faulty
- Swap the switches if at all feasible. In certain automobiles, all of the window switches are similar. This allows you to change one from a window that is functional to a window that is not functional. If the window starts operating again after installing the replacement switch, the switch is faulty
- Check for power to the switch. If the switch has power and ground, then the wiring or the motor is the source of the problem
- Check for power to the motor. Even though the motor is connected to power and ground, if the window does not roll up or down, the motor is defective.
Check the Lockout Switch
Power window motors and switches can both fail over time as a result of regular wear and tear, but it’s always better to start with the most basic problem possible when diagnosing a power window problem. Power windows include a lockout switch, which may be found on the control panel. If the window lockout button is unintentionally pressed, the windows will get jammed and cannot be opened. The majority of automobiles with power windows are fitted with a safety lockout switch as standard equipment.
This panel can be found on the driver’s door in certain vehicles, while others have it in the center console.
Small children and animals may be prevented from mistakenly opening the windows while the car is in motion by using this safety function.
The symbol on or near the switch varies slightly from one vehicle to the next, but it frequently resembles a window that has been crossed out in some way.
Make an attempt to utilize your windows once more once you have pressed the lockout button. As long as they work, your problem is no longer an issue.
Are the Window Motor Fuses Blown?
In the majority of automobiles, all of the window motors are connected to the same circuit. That means they are all powered by the same fuse, and if that fuse blows, all of the windows cease to function at the same time. If that’s what occurred to you, replacing a blown fuse may be all that’s needed to get your jammed windows to roll back up. When all of the windows become stuck at the same time, look for a blown fuse. In most vehicles, fuse boxes are positioned beneath the dash, in the glove compartment, or in the engine compartment.
- If your owner’s handbook does not indicate where your fuse box is located, and you are unable to locate it, you may either call your local dealer or search the internet for a photo or illustration of the fuse box location.
- The majority of automobile fuses are semi-transparent, allowing you to see whether or not the fuse has blown before replacing it.
- To determine whether or not there is power on both sides of the fuse, you will need to verify with a test light or voltmeter.
- You should replace a blown fuse with a new fuse that has the same amperage rating as the old one if you discover that it is blown.
- It is not recommended to replace a blown fuse with a bigger fuse.
Look for Signs the Window Motor Has Malfunctioned
If your automobile window won’t roll up or down, you’ll need to use specialist equipment, and you’ll have to take off both the window switch and the door panel before you can test anything. There are a handful of things you can do to limit down the scope of the problem before you get to that point. If your vehicle is equipped with a voltage gauge, you may use it to determine whether or not your window motor is defective. Some automobiles are equipped with a voltage meter on the dashboard. When the automobile is not running, it normally displays between 12 and 13 volts, and when the engine is running, it displays more than that.
A voltmeter on the dashboard of your automobile may be able to help you rule out a defective window motor switch in the following situations:
- Make sure that the key is in the accessory position so that the dash lights and instruments come on
- To open your windows, press the window switch. Take a close look to check if there is any movement of the needle on the voltage meter.
When you push the window switch when the engine is turned off, the voltage meter should move even a small amount, indicating that the electric window motor is attempting to function properly. That indicates that your switch is in good working order and that you most likely have a faulty window motor. Also conceivable is that the regulator has been twisted, fractured, or otherwise incapacitated.
The only way to know for certain is to remove the door panel and conduct a visual investigation of the interior. If you do not have the necessary tools, you will need to have the vehicle towed to a specialist.
Attempt to Rule Out Bad Window Switches
Some automobiles have power window switches that are similar for each window. It is necessary to remove the switch from one of the working windows if your car is configured in this manner and you only have one window that does not function properly. Replace the switch for the window that doesn’t work with the switch for the window that does work for the time being, and then try to shut the window. If the window does not close, you will know that the switch is the source of the problem, and you will be able to easily replace it.
How to Check for Power at a Car Window Switch
Further tests are required after this stage and necessitate the use of specialist equipment and experience. If you don’t have the proper tools, such as a voltmeter, and you aren’t comfortable working on your own automobile, it is preferable to just take the vehicle to a mechanic. If you do have a voltmeter, the next step is to make sure that the power window switch is receiving electricity and is grounded. In most cases, a single power terminal is used in conjunction with two ground terminals, as well as two terminals that link to the window motor.
A ground signal should be present on two of the other terminals, and neither power nor ground should be present on the final two.
Pushing the switch in the opposite direction should cause the power and ground terminals to be reversed, and vice versa.
There is an exception in cases when the switch itself does not have power or ground, in which case you have a wiring issue.
How to Check for Power at a Car Window Motor
If the switch appears to be in good working order, the next step is to check for electrical power at the motor. This will need the removal of the door panel. If you have never removed the panel before, you will likely also discover a protective plastic sheet behind the door, and you may also need to remove a second internal panel in order to gain access to the motor and other components. With the door panel removed, you’ll need to use your voltmeter to determine whether or not there is electricity to the motor.
It is possible that the motor is faulty if you sense electricity at it but it does not run at all.
Fixing Manual Windows That Won’t Roll Up or Down
Manual windows are far less complicated than electric windows. Because there are no electrical components in a manual window, there are only two things that might cause it to stop working: stripped gears in the crank or a fault with the window regulator. If the manual window regulator becomes stuck, you may be able to reactivate it by applying fresh oil to the mechanism. In contrast to power windows, there isn’t a quick and simple solution to force a stuck manual window to open for a short period of time.
- To determine why a manual window will not roll up, you must first remove the window crank and door panel and physically check the whole window and door assembly.
- If the crank freewheels as you spin it, or if it seems like it is grinding, it is possible that the teeth within the crank have been stripped.
- If the teeth on the crank are stripped, replacing the crank should resolve the issue.
- Make sure the window hasn’t popped out of the channel by checking it again.
In rare instances, you may discover that the regulator has been clogged, has become entangled with something, or that the grease has dried out. When dealing with issues like these, you may be able to roll your window up by loosening the regulator or putting fresh oil to the roller.
How to Fix Power Windows
Power windows that are not working properly are a big pain, especially when they become stuck down in extreme heat or cold. Following these methods will allow you to troubleshoot and repair your power windows in a few of hours. Another tollbooth, another mile-or, at least, it appears as though tollbooths come every mile on this road, with a half mile of traffic idling its slow way up to the token monster-and another tollbooth, another mile-and another tollbooth, another mile. You’re within an arm’s reach of the bin, so you use one hand to flick the power window switch while the other fingers a token, ready to toss it into the basket as soon as you depress the accelerator.
- Power windows, on the other hand, are often one of the most dependable technologies in a late-model automobile.
- What’s going on?
- There is a straightforward regulator mechanism, which is often comparable to the mechanism found in garden-variety hand-cranked windows.
- The process of troubleshooting is rather basic once you’ve removed the door panels.
- First and foremost, are all of the windows malfunctioning?
- As a first step, check the fuse box to see if it is blown or if the windows can’t be moved.
- A few sticky window channels and the passage of time might cause a fuse to blow.
- If the fuse is blown, pressing the window button will have no effect at all: the motor will not moan and the glass will not tremble when you press the button.
- If this is the case, the fuse should be checked.
You don’t want to be yanking fuses all over the place looking for a blown one because you might interrupt power to the engine management computer, resulting in poor driving performance for about 30 minutes, or you might accidentally reset all of the buttons on your car radio to that underwater alien rock and gospel station.
- Is it possible that all of the windows are closed?
- It’s possible that you’ll have the chance to go spelunking inside the door even if it’s only one person.
- If you’ve reduced the problem down to an electrical issue that isn’t as straightforward as a blown fuse, you’ll need to gather a schematic of your car’s electrical system as well as a voltmeter or 12v test light at this point.
- You’ll probably find a loose or corroded connector that’s causing the electricity to the motor to be interrupted somewhere.
- If the driver’s door switch does not open the right rear door, but the switch in the door does, search for a faulty switch in the driver’s door or a defect in the wiring that connects the driver’s door to the right rear door.
- Sesame Street is now open.
- It may be possible to pry the panel up with your fingers and backprobe the connections on some automobiles, such as the one seen in our leading picture.
The fasteners that hold door panels in place are a dizzying array of different types.
The perimeter of the panel is often kept in place by delicate plastic studs that are only intended to be used once.
After you’ve removed the door panel, gently remove the weather sheeting from the opening.
Caution: You now have the capacity to insert your fingers into areas that they would ordinarily not be able to reach.
Proof of Possibility Test if the motor comes to life by connecting a jumper wire directly from the battery’s positive terminal to the motor’s positive terminal as absolute confirmation that the problem is electrical.
Take a look at the schematic.
If just the rears are acting up, look for a faulty switch.
You’ll have to get another one.
Loose fasteners can produce severe misalignment, which can cause gear-type regulators to become jammed.
It is necessary to inspect the gaskets if the window has a slow spot, is difficult to open or close correctly.
If the gasket is loose or even ripped, you may be able to fix it with a little effort.
Remove the old adhesive with lacquer thinner and reinstall the gasket into its original position.
If the gasket is damaged, you may be able to simply fix the tear with super glue if the tear is small enough.
If you are replacing the gasket on the section of it that sits outside the glass, you should exercise caution since it may allow rain and salt spray to seep into the door in amounts that are too great for the door’s internal drainage system to cope with.
If it is not immediately apparent that the gasket is faulty, thoroughly check the whole gasket and channel.
Lacquer thinner should be used to clean the gasket and window surfaces to eliminate oxidized rubber and scum buildup.
In almost all cases, misalignment will result in a significant increase in friction, to the point where the motor’s torque is no longer sufficient to move the glass adequately.
It’s also conceivable that the issue is located deeper within the door frame.
Remember to pull the fuse in order to avoid having your fingers amputated.
In other cases, the problem is as simple as a loosened bolt that allows the door’s inner structure to move about, causing the window track to become misaligned.
If the door has been damaged in a collision, there are no more bets.
Finally, it is possible that the mechanism that raises and lowers the window is malfunctioning.
Keep your fingers away from the controls once more.
In some cases, cables might become tangled in the drum or become sticky.
Remember that there are gaskets in the window track below the top of the door that you may need to reglue, replace, or lubricate if the window track is damaged.
Depending on the situation, it may be feasible to replace just the motor or the complete mechanism. Check the weatherstripping and window channel for ripped, loose, or folded rubber pieces, as well as any foreign items that may have gotten caught in the system.
HOW IT WORKS: Automatic Windows
Some late-model high-end vehicles are equipped with frameless windows that automatically crank themselves open by a quarter-inch or so as the doors are opened and closed. It occurs at such a rapid pace that you may not even realize it. The window opens quickly, allowing the seal to be broken before the door latch is released. When the door latch locks, it automatically closes approximately a second after it latches. There are two distinct advantages to doing so. In the first place, a slightly open window allows for the ventilation of internal air, which can actually make it difficult to open doors in securely sealed automobiles by forcing the door open against the force of air pressure.
- It is possible that the seal will seem more like that of a sedan door seal, with a little lip projecting over top of the window glass.
- This sort of seal provides for less infiltration of water and noise.
- Repairs will almost certainly necessitate the use of a manufacturer shop manual as well as the purchase of pricey replacement components.
- You may be able to discover further information on this and other related items at the website piano.io.
Power window goes up but not down?
Several late-model high-end automobiles are equipped with frameless windows that mechanically crank themselves open by a quarter-inch or so as the doors are opened and closed. It occurs at such a rapid pace that you may not be aware of what is happening. It takes only a few seconds for the window to open, allowing the seal to be broken before the door lock is broken. It then shuts on its own around a second after the door latch latches, without any human intervention. Two benefits accrue as a result of this arrangement.
The manufacturer can also employ a drastically different form of seal on the top of the window as a result of this feature.
As a result, this sort of seal will not function properly on frameless windows since the glass must pass through the seal as the window opens and shuts.
Unfortunately, the logic control module that is required to accomplish this has a negative impact on the overall performance.
In order to assist visitors in providing their email addresses, this material was produced and maintained by a third party and imported onto this website. If you go to piano.io, you may be able to get further information on this and other related topics.
One power window will go up but not down
Hello everyone, I’ve only recently joined. I recently purchased a lovely 2000 Ford Excursion with the 6.8-liter V-10 engine for a very reasonable price because the previous owner couldn’t work out a few minor issues with the vehicle. I have to add that this forum is the finest place to gather information on Ford vehicles! Thanks to the knowledgeable (and experienced) brains on this forum, I’ve already handled a handful of difficulties without paying a single money. One issue that the PO was unable to resolve was the passenger side rear window.
- All of the other windows work fine, and I assume the right rear window would go up if I could ever get it to open since the problem is just with the lowering voltage, not with the increasing voltage, as I previously said.
- It was a simple matter of swapping switches with the left back door, which had a known good motor and switch.
- I examined the voltage at the INPUT of the RR switch.
- I got the same result as before: 12v to increase and nothing to drop.
- The voltage on the output side of the switch toggles between +12v and -12v, as it should to raise and reduce the output voltage.
- This problem is frequently caused by chafing, loose, or corroded wire, which I tested for all the way from the B-pillar to the right rear door switch, and everything appears to be in working order for that stretch of wiring.
- Is it possible that there is a relay dedicated to the right rear window, or that there is a link or module that has been identified as causing this symptom?
Passenger window no roll up, but does roll down.
04-05-2020 Date of joining: April 2020 Anderson, South Carolina is the location. Number of posts: 13 1 Like was received on a single post. Sorry I apologize for getting a bit carried away there; I was thinking about it and writing at the same time. The bottom line is as follows. I tested both return wires at the passenger switch for proper grounds and found them to be in good working order. After much examination, I discovered that the drivers side utilizes one of those ground lines while operating the passenger window and then creates a second ground path to be used by the passenger switch when the vehicle is in the neutral position.
In any case, I noticed the 12v across the window motor, first – then +, as I raised and lowered the window from the driver’s side of the automobile.
When I clicked the down button, I was able to locate the 12v supply at the switch, but I was unable to locate it at the + side of the motor.
I went one step farther for the sake of my own sanity.
The aspect that drives me crazy is that the switch’s ohms are just good.
Yet, I can see the connections from the 12v power supply to the motor open and close when I actuate the switch – it simply won’t pass the 12v power supply to drive the motor – however, jumping the contacts makes it function properly, which is strange!