- In some GM trucks, a blower motor control module failure can cause the front blower motor to stop working or run after the vehicle has been shut off. The GM bulletin 06-01-39-002C describes this problem that happens in cold weather. The bulletin advises replacing the blower motor control module.
What can cause a blower motor to stop working?
In most cases, a blower motor resistor fails due to corrosion or overheating. Sometimes, the mechanical resistance to the motor rotation causes an excessive electric current that can overheat and prematurely damage the blower motor resistor.
How do I know if my blower motor relay is bad?
If you have a faulty blower motor, you may experience low airflow from the vents, even when the fan is on high. There will be no air coming from the vents if your fan isn’t working due to a bad blower motor resistor.
Which fuse is for the blower motor?
To protect the blower motor power circuit, a 20-, 25- or 30-amp fuse is usually located in the fuse panel under the dash. The rating of the fuse will depend on the vehicle application and how much power the blower motor requires at full speed.
Can you drive without a blower motor?
Your car’s blower motor is not only necessary for the operation of your air conditioner. Without a functioning blower motor your engine runs the risk of overheating. Start car and see if blower motor works. If fuse blows again, check for loose circuits.
How do I reset my blower motor?
How to Find and Reset your Furnace Motor Blower
- Step 1: Turn off the power to the furnace.
- Step 2: Remove the blower compartment cover.
- Step 3: Make sure the blower is completely cooled off.
- Step 4: Locate the reset button.
- Step 5: Press the button in (assuming that this is your issue and that the button has popped).
Where is the blower motor fuse and relay?
The blower relay is located near the front of the fuse block and is labeled ‘Blower.’ Inspect the center of the relay. If the metal rod inside is broken, the relay will need to be replaced.
How do you test a blower motor switch?
Test the switch. Plug the connector back in to the blower motor, and then trace the wire harness back to the connector closest to the blower motor switch, usually located under the dash. Disconnect the connector and set the multimeter to ohms.
Why is my car not blowing air at all?
Here are some of the most common causes of why air doesn’t flow out of your vehicle’s vents: Your air intake is clogged, meaning that air isn’t getting in from the outside at all or isn’t circulating properly. There is a blown fuse in the ventilation system. Electrical issues such as a bad relay.
How do I know if my furnace blower motor is bad?
5 Signs Your Blower Motor Needs to Be Replaced
- Weak Airflow from the Vents. This is usually the first indication that you may have a faulty blower motor.
- No Airflow at All.
- Unusually High Energy Bills.
- Strange Sounds.
Is there a way to test a blower motor resistor?
Place one lead of the Ohmmeter on terminal 1 of the resistor. Place the other lead on terminal 2 and check against specifications. If this circuit is open, showing infinity on the Ohmmeter, the blower resistor must be replaced. Move the lead from terminal 2 to terminal 3 and check this reading against specifications.
Where is the blower fuse located?
Many vehicles have two fuses for the blower motor, one in the interior fuse block and the other under the hood. The blower motor is usually under the dashboard on the passenger side.
Where is the relay for the blower motor?
The blower motor relay is generally located in the under-hood fuse box or in the under-dash fuse box. A blown fuse can mimic relay failure.
Does blower motor have a fuse?
The blower motor is powered by a fuse-like device called a relay. If your heater or air conditioner does not blow air through the vents, this could indicate that the blower motor fuse has probably blown. While replacement is easy, the exact location of your blower motor fuse may vary from vehicle to vehicle.
Blower motor doesn’t work GM
GM has published a service bulletinPIT5343 to address a condition in which the Blower Motor does not operate or does not change speeds when the vehicle is first started. The following cars are affected by the bulletin: Colorado Chevrolet Silverado 1500 2014 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Sierra 1500 (2014 model year) and Canyon (2015 model year) HVAC is operated manually (RPO C67 or C42)
How the blower motor problem appears
If you own one of the cars mentioned above and observe that the blower motor does not operate when the engine is started or that the blower motor does not change speeds, do not replace the blower motor, switches, or resistor. Instead, replace the blower motor, switches, and resistor. This is a software bug that can cause the HVAC control head to become unresponsive if the following procedure is followed: 1. The engine is running, and 2. The blower motor is operating. 3. The HVAC system is in Defrost mode, and the defrost light is illuminated.
After completing this procedure, the blower motor will not operate when you restart the machine and will not respond when you attempt to modify the blower motor speed.
Alternatively, turn the blower motor knob.
In the year 2017, Rick Muscoplat is a professional musician.
Chevrolet AC Blower Control Problems Solved at FixMyOldRide.com
Replacement Kit for the control of an air conditioner’s blower Troubleshooting and repair for typical AC blower control module issues. A problem with inconsistent interior fan performance has been reported by drivers of numerous popular Chevrolet pickup trucks and sport utility vehicles. In fact, there was one instance in which the blower fan remained on high long after the ignition key was removed. However, it appears that the most frequently reported issue is that the fan does not respond to speed adjustments or does not operate at all.
- The GMC versions of these pickups, such as the Envoy and Yukon, are, of course, exempt from this rule.
- Some could argue that this isn’t a classic ride because it’s so new.
- I was working at a Chevrolet dealership during the time these vehicles were still covered by the manufacturer’s warranty.
- An interesting point to mention is that consumers who complained about this problem without receiving a resolution had their condition documented while their product was still under warranty since no defect was discovered.
When the problem grew widespread, clients were given the option of extending their warranties and receiving the covered repairs.
Updated AC Control Module Parts
Unfortunately, we were unable to provide you with the updated components today. This section will cover the new and enhanced components of the second design, as well as some best practices for pinpoint diagnostics and installation. Although pricing may vary from one region of the country to the next, I can tell you that if you brought your car into a dealership, this repair would likely cost a couple of hundred dollars. New AC blower control modules are available for as little as $60, making the replacement of the module a do-it-yourself project for many technicians.
AC Blower Control Module Malfunction
Now that we’ve reached the section of the article that discusses the complaint, the reason, and the solution, we need to clarify something. A blower control module may only be installed in a vehicle equipped with automatic temperature control, also known as ATC. This is the digital type, which operates in the same way as the HVAC control panel in your home. As soon as you set the thermostat to 70 degrees, the climate control system automatically changes the temperature doors and blower speed to match your preferences.
A blower resistor assembly will be installed in its place.
However, it is critical that you are aware of the distinction and understand what elements are in the automotive.
Diagnosing a Defective Blower Control Module
Diagram of the Blower Motor Control Module The blower module is accessed from the passenger side floorboard region of the autos we’re talking about. It is possible that a hush panel will need to be removed in order to obtain access to the compartment. Another thing to keep in mind is that on certain vehicles, the glove box will swing out of the way to allow for easier access. The only thing you have to do is press up on the stop tab located in the upper left corner of the glove box compartment to activate it.
- Despite the fact that you most likely have a faulty AC blower control module, you should do a few simple checks before purchasing replacement parts for the unit.
- The fact that they have blown indicates that the module is consuming an excessive amount of energy.
- Despite the fact that it is most probable that you have a module problem, it is still possible that the blower motor is faulty.
- If you have done so and the fan is still not spinning, give it a little tap on the motor housing to see if it will begin to spin on its own.
- You will almost certainly not have electricity at the blower motor.
- Consider the blower control module to be a sort of intermediary.
- The AC blower control module is faulty if you have power and ground coming into the unit but nothing coming out when the maximum blower setting is chosen on the control panel.
If there is no power coming from the three-wire module connector, it is possible that there is a problem with the air conditioning control head.
The Control Module Replacement Parts
As I indicated in the introduction, a revised replacement module is available. Despite the fact that the part seems to be considerably different from the original, it is designed to fit directly into the existing mounting spot with no modifications required. The region around the heat sink that prevents the gadget from overheating can be seen to be one of the most significant modifications in the new design. Aside from that, the replacement part has a different connector configuration, which means that we’ll have to splice the three wires from the control head that we tested before.
- For your own safety, you should remove the battery from the vehicle.
- What would happen?
- It is not the end of the world, but chances are you don’t have one on hand, and a new one will cost you roughly five dollars, so it is not the best of times.
- Make careful to cut each wire individually to avoid blowing any fuses.
- This implies that you’ll have to go to your local auto parts store and get some replacements.
- In this case, though, it’s definitely overkill, because not everyone has access to a soldering station.
Final Thoughts about this Blower Motor Problem
Blower motor resistor failures have been reported in a large number of automobiles manufactured in the early 2000s. Not only are Chevrolet goods affected by this issue, but so are Dodge vehicles and even certain international automobiles, according to the information provided. Heat accumulation appears to be the root cause of the problem. Most of the automobiles that have these problems now have replacement components that have greater heat sinks to disperse the heat that has accumulated. In order to avoid repeating this repair, you should only have to do it once throughout the course of your ownership.
There is a potential that the blower motor is the source of the problem in the first place.
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blower not working on 5
If the blower motor speed resistor has to be changed, there is a good possibility that the high speed blower relay has gone bad as well. GM offers a kit to replace the speed resistor and wire harness for the blower motor, which is prone to burning out or shorting out on a regular basis. Good luck, and please keep us informed. You’ll also need to change the wire harness for the Resistor. There is a GM Tech Bulletin on this. The resistor generates an overheating problem, and the stock harness does not have the required AWG, resulting in the wires catching on fire.
- The bad news is that it’s a GM-only part number, and they’re $95.00 on the open market.
- A/C – Blower motor is not working or is only working at a low speed.
- : 05-01-38-012C Bulletin No.
- Please toss it out.
- 05-01-38-012B (Corporate Bulletin) (Section 01 – HVAC).
- Remove Corporate Bulletin Number 05-01-38-012B from your records (Section 01 – HVAC).
- Correction REPLACE THE RESISTOR FOR THE BLOWER MOTOR AS WELL AS THE RESISTOR MODULE CONNECTOR.
The following are examples of fullsize trucks and utility vehicles: Htr A/CHVAC 1 fuses are used Fuse 35 for the Blower is situated in the Underhood Fuse Block of Midsize Utility Vehicles.
Connect the connection to the resistor module and remove it from the circuit.
Ensure that the wires are cut back far enough from the connection to ensure that any melted insulation on the wire is eliminated.
Use the proper crimping tool from the terminal repair kit J 38125 to ensure a proper seal.
It is possible that other splice sleeves will not adequately protect the splice from moisture or will not create a satisfactory electrical connection.
Use the yellow splice sleeves that came with the connection to join the wires.
Replace the blower motor resistor with a new one. Replace the fuse or connection block if it has been removed. Check that the blower motor operates at all speeds by running it through its paces. Reinstall the hush panel/close-out panel if it has been removed.
Blower motor, resistor: how it works, symptoms, problems, testing
The most recent update was on August 1, 2021. In automobiles, a blower motor is a type of motor that drives the fan in the vehicle’s heating and air conditioning system. It is usually found inside the dash, on the opposite side of the steering wheel, or inside the engine compartment, on the firewall, depending on the vehicle. It is the blower motor resistor, also known as the blower motor control module, that is in charge of controlling the blower motor’s rotational speed. What exactly is the distinction?
It is used in automobiles if the blower motor has just four or five fixed speeds, as seen on the left side of this picture.
As seen in the photograph, an electronic blower motor control module is installed in cars equipped with an automated temperature control system and vehicles in which the blower speed may be changed gradually.
This is done in order to allow air to circulate around the resistor or control module, allowing it to cool down.
Blower motor resistor / control module problems
In many automobiles, problems with the blower motor resistor are prevalent. Generally speaking, the most typical sign of a failed blower motor resistor is that the heater fan only operates at the maximum speed level (4 or 5) and does not operate at lower speed settings. In some automobiles, a faulty blower motor resistor can cause the heater fan to stop functioning altogether in rare instances. The majority of the time, a blower motor resistor fails as a result of corrosion or overheating. Mechanical resistance to motor rotation can occasionally result in an excessive electric current flowing through the motor, causing it to overheat and prematurely destroy the blower motor resistor.
Problems with a blower motor control module are less common, but they occur for the same reasons: corrosion or overheating when the motor is blocked or shorted, for example.
Occasionally, a faulty blower control module or processor can cause the blower motor to continue operating even after the ignition is turned off in some vehicles (e.g., older General Motors trucks).
How is the blower motor resistor diagnosed?
The rust in this Ford blower motor resistor has caused it to fail. Diagnostic procedures differ from one another. A visual check of the resistor will frequently uncover the source of the problem. Examples include the failure of the blower motor resistor in a Ford Escape due to corrosion, as shown in this photograph of the vehicle. The resistance between the resistor’s terminals must be tested and compared to the manufacturer’s requirements if there is no visible damage to the resistor. If the resistance is not within specifications, the resistor will need to be changed.
According to the service handbook, the resistance should be between 4-5 ohms.
In our scenario, the ohmmeter indicates that the resistor has failed, which signifies that the resistor has failed.
This indicates that after replacing the blower motor resistor, you should check to see if the blower motor is running smoothly and without making any noise.
This was a prevalent problem in earlier Chrysler and Dodge minivans, for example. In this scenario, it is also necessary to replace the blower motor. When a blower motor is worn out, it might make a loud screeching noise occasionally while operating, which is one of the signs of the problem.
How to test the blower motor?
If the blower motor does not function at all, the blower motor itself must be inspected first to determine the cause of the problem. Most of the time, this is accomplished by monitoring the voltage at the blower motor connector when the blower is switched on. There should be a voltage present at the motor (at least 4-6 Volts at low speed and 12 Volts at high speed), but the motor should not be running because it is defective or stuck. Checking the voltage at the blower motor is a good idea. It is a defective motor if there is voltage at the motor (at least 4-6 Volts at low speed and 12 Volts at high speed), yet it does not operate while there is voltage present.
- This occurs often in a large number of automobiles.
- This includes testing the circuit starting at the fuse.
- A faulty blower motor will necessitate the replacement of the unit.
- This is a relatively simple task in many automobiles; the blower motor is placed under the glove box and is held in place by three to four screws.
- If you want a proper diagnostic method, we have provided various links to websites where you may obtain a service manual for your vehicle for a small membership charge.
How is the blower motor control module tested?
A scan tool, which is used by mechanics at dealerships, may be used to diagnose the HVAC system. If you do not have access to a scan tool, many automobiles with automated climate control systems have a self-testing or diagnostic mode that you may use instead. Typically, it may be initiated by pressing and holding various buttons at the same time. According to the service handbook for the 2009 Honda Accord, the following is how the process should be performed: Set the ignition to the ‘ON’ position.
- Once in the self-diagnostic mode, the system will display a fault code on the display if there is a problem.
- The testing technique for each code is described in detail in the service manual.
- Another method is to check the voltage at the blower motor, the blower motor control module, and other sections of the circuit in accordance with the service instructions for the particular model.
- Honda power transistor is being tested (blower motor control module).
- The power transistor has four wires: two come from the temperature control system control unit, one is for ground, and one is for the negative terminal of the blower motor.
- The service handbook recommends checking the voltage at the blower motor first, and if that is not satisfactory, checking the voltage at the power transistor and so on.
- According to Honda advisory 03-048, a fault with the blower motor for the rear HVAC system in the 2003 Pilot was characterized as not working at all speeds when the vehicle was started.
- BMW refers to the blower motor control module as a Final Stage Unit, and it is likewise a component that is prone to failure.
- More information may be found in the followingYouTube videos.
- This condition, which occurs in cold weather, is described in detail in General Motors bulletin 06-01-39-002C.
According to the notice, the blower motor control module should be replaced. It is referred to as the Linear Power Module by General Motors (LPM). More information may be found in the followingYouTube videos.
Your neighborhood mechanic or any small repair business should be able to determine the source of the malfunction. Of course, scheduling an appointment with your dealer is the most expedient option. A large number of dealers have the component in stock. The cost of replacing the blower motor resistor or control module is not prohibitively high. A coworker of ours, for example, had an issue with his 2011 Ford Escape, which had a fan that only operated at speed 4. In the end, he spent $50 for the diagnosis and $112 for the resistor replacement at a local Ford shop.
- The blower motor resistor is found on top of the HVAC unit, behind the glove box, in the Ford Escape / Mazda Tribute from 2008 to 2011 model years.
- It’s kept in place by two screws and is simple to swap out.
- The blower motor resistor is likewise positioned beneath the glove box in the Ford F150, however it is mounted on the right side of the plastic air duct in the model years 2008 to 2011.
- It was written by the author of this site on his experience changing the blower motor resistor in a Jeep Liberty.
How the blower motor resistor works
Diagram of a typical blower resistor This figure illustrates the connection of the blower motor resistor in a common automobile. In this vehicle, the resistor is bypassed when the fan speed is set to the maximum ‘4’ level, and the blower motor is driven directly by the fan switch. That is why, in some vehicles, even if the resistor is damaged, the blower motor may continue to operate at the ‘High’ speed setting. The fan switch is set to speed ‘1’ in this figure, and the blower motor current is lowered by three resistors (R2 + R3 + R4) that are connected in series with the fan motor.
In the option ‘2,’ there are two resistors linked in series, however in the setting ‘3,’ there is just one resistor connected in parallel.
When numerous resistors are linked in series, the overall resistance increases and becomes equal to the sum of the individual resistances in each series connection.
Amazon.com: AC Blower Motor with Fan – Replaces 22754990, 15850268, 19153333 – Compatible with Chevy, Pontiac & Buick Vehicles – 2004-2016 Impala, 2004-2008 Grand Prix, 05-09 Lacrosse, 04-07 Monte Carlo : Automotive
On the 21st of July, the United States of America reviewed and verified the purchase. My daughter has been without air conditioning for about a year. Every auto repair shop that might possibly help her quoted her more than $400. My husband got this AC blower motor for $35, and it took him less than an hour to put it in the air conditioning system (he watched the You Tube video on how to install). Her air conditioner is in excellent working order, and she is overjoyed. On July 22, 2019, a verified purchase was reviewed in the United States of America.
- The first two of the three actuators failed two years ago.
- I ordered all of the necessary components from Amazon, watched a couple of YouTube tutorials, and voila!
- So far, this blower motor seems to be as excellent as, if not better than, the original one I replaced it with.
- It’s performing admirably.
- The new one was a perfect fit to replace the old one.
- After a period, it must have been so worn out that it no longer performs the action.
- The product was reviewed in the United States on September 2, 2019 and it was verified as a purchase.
Installation is quick and straightforward, requiring just hand tools.
On November 28, 2018, a review was conducted in the United States.
Excellent value for the money.
On March 5, 2021, a review will be conducted in the United States.
At first, we thought it was the motor that was malfunctioning.
The fan was the source of the problem, as discovered by the husband.
You get good value for your money.
Purchase that has been verified Works exactly like OEM, therefore if you’re shopping for a chevrolet impala from 2001 to 2013, it should fit, however the body design of the 2010 model is required.
On May 13, 2021, a review was published in the United States of America.
It is effective. However, you should be aware that it does not have the same power settings as an OEM. The lowest setting is more akin to OEM level 3 than the highest option. If I had the option, I’d either spend the additional money on a new OEM or get one from a salvage yard.
Top reviews from other countries
On July 21, 2019, a verified purchase was reviewed in the United States. My daughter has been without central air conditioning for about a year now. Everyone who could fix it, even the mechanics, charged her over $400. For $35, my husband got this air conditioning blower motor, and it took him less than an hour to install it (he watched the You Tube video on how to install). Her air conditioner is in excellent working order, and she is overjoyed with its performance. On July 22, 2019, a verified purchase was reviewed in the United States.
- The first two actuators failed two years ago, and the third failed last month.
- Everything came from Amazon, I watched a few of youtube tutorials, and then it was time to start building.
- As of this writing, this blower motor seems to be on par with, if not slightly better than, the original I had replaced.
- It’s doing an excellent job right now!
- The new one was a perfect fit to replace the old.
- It must have worn down to the point that it no longer performs the action.
- On September 2, 2019, a verified purchase was reviewed in the United States.
Simple and straightforward, installation requires just hand tools.
On November 28, 2018, a review was published in the United States.
This is a good buy for the money.
On March 5, 2021, the United States will conduct a review of this document.
At first, we thought it was the motor that was broken.
The fan was the source of the issue, as discovered by the husband.
You get what you pay for.
I installed it in the same car as before and it worked flawlessly.
Yes, it is effective. However, it does not have the same power settings as an OEM, so be prepared for that. It is more equivalent to OEM level 3 when using the lowest setting. A new OEM or one obtained from a salvage yard would be my first choices, if I had the option to do so.
Air Conditioner Blower Problem
I’ve noticed that a number of individuals have experienced issues with their air conditioning blowers. Here’s a copy of mine. I’m hoping someone can assist me. Tahoe Z71 (2004 model year) Every now and again, when I start my Tahoe, everything is good – the air conditioner fan operates exactly as it should. However, there are occasions when the blower will not operate at all, regardless of the fan speed. In some cases, turning the engine off then back on again cures the problem and it starts working properly at all speeds again in others, it doesn’t.
- I accidentally left the fan switch set to 1 a few times, and after about ten minutes, it began to function properly.
- Nothing seems to make things work at times.
- However, there were instances when the next voyage would have a difficulty.
- Is this a problem that anybody else has encountered?
- What do you recommend I do?
Blower motor cutting out
The original post was made byauroralover. I have a 98 SE with a blower motor that only operates when it wants to. When I switch off the car and then get back into it and start it, the blower motor is not working. This happens for around an hour. After 10, 15, or 20 minutes of driving, it will begin to function properly. It appears to be a short, but where should I look for it? If the blower motor isn’t working, try striking it with a hammer. It’s located* on the firewall, just behind the center of the motor.
The blower control module, which is located near to the motor on top of the air handler housing (under the relay center) if you have an automated control air conditioning unit, may not be functioning properly.
Blower control modules frequently fail, resulting in unpredictable fan speed adjustments, unusual behavior, no operation, and the blower remaining on even after the car has been turned off and the key removed—all of which deplete the battery.
If the motor begins when the room is vibrated, the blower motor is most likely to blame.
You may also do a test by directly connecting the motor to the battery through a fused line and giving a ground connection to the motor. The fact that it turns on after driving and bouncing would lead me to believe that the blower motor needs to be checked first.
HVAC blower switch doesn’t work on 5
Here is the thread you requested, rick. Finally, I was able to have my blower repaired. BULLETIN OF SERVICESPECIAL COVERAGE ADJUSTMENTS 11146 Bulletin No. 1 of 2 The date is April 7th, 2011. 11046 is the subject of this message. ADJUSTMENT TO SPECIAL COVERAGE RATES. Inoperative or running continuously with the ignition turned off heating, ventilation, and air conditioning blower not fully functional at all blower speeds. Chevrolet Avalanche, Suburban, and Tahoe models from 2003 to 2006. Chevrolet Silverado pickup trucks from 2003 to 2007.
- GMC Sierra models from 2003 to 2007.
- An owner advisory letter will be sent to owners of model year automobiles that were not included in the initial wave of owner mailing.
- A copy of this letter will be attached to the dealer communication that will be sent out to inform them of this bulletin’s release.
- Overheating of the relay resistor module or wire connector may happen from any of the two causes listed above, resulting in one or more of the following symptoms : – It is possible that the HVAC blower will not perform properly on some or all of the blower speed levels.
- It is possible that the HVAC blower will continue to operate even while the ignition is in the OFF position if the above-mentioned symptoms are ignored.
- ADJUSTMENT TO SPECIAL COVERAGE RATES.
The first of these two events occurs first, starting with the day the vehicle was originally placed into service.
A new Blower Module Connector is to be installed by the dealer.
Claims must be made using the labor operation numbers supplied with this advisory in order to be covered by this special coverage.
There is no doubt about the vehicles involved.
Chevrolet Avalanche, Suburban, Tahoe; GMC Yukon, Yukon XL; and 2003-2007 model year Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra vehicles equipped with a Manual HVAV (CJ3) or Heavy Duty Heater are exempt from this requirement (C42) Important: Before initiating repairs on a vehicle, dealers must validate that the vehicle is eligible for warranty coverage by visiting the Applicable Warranties portion of the Global Warranty Management system.
Blower motor issue
I can’t seem to get this connector to come apart for the life of me. I know this is the source of the problem because when I press it or attempt to unplug it, the blower turns back on. There is a good chance that the connection plastic melted partially and the two parts fused together. In this specific case, the connections (on the blower pigtail) are composed of super-cheap, supple nylon material. It is possible that you may have to be really forceful with it, but this will be extremely perilous.
What’s more, you’re already aware that at least one of the two parts (male and female) is inherently evil.
More information about the topic, as well as debate, can be found here: Moreover, here is the procedure for repairing it with the manufacturer ‘upgrade’ kit (which I have not done myself) The use of resistors in conjunction with the connection was only a ‘small detail’ that saved money on the overall project.
- Which would have been good in and of itself, except that the seller backed out at the last minute.
- In any case, resistors are almost never used in automobiles today since most of them utilize a continuous control knob (with an electronic driving circuit behind the knob) instead.
- The simplest solution, without a doubt, would be to get the GM kit (albeit I have no personal experience with it).
- But (and this is just because you brought it up.) (I’m not suggesting that you do or don’t anything.) However, you could completely remove the connection and splice the wire ends together.
- You might detach the resistors from the connector and solder wires to them in order to reattach them in the new spliced connection, but this is not recommended.
- You may simply seek for the heater blower speed-control resistors in another automobile if you have a spare set lying around.
- It may be necessary to extend the cables a few inches in order to tuck it away up under there, depending on where you can locate a suitable location nearby.
In fact, the majority of resistor clusters you’ll come across will be at least twice as physically hefty as the whimpy tiny resistor cluster that’s on the 355 blower connection (i.e., twice the maximum wattage rating).
The resistance of the non-original equipment replacement need not be identical to the original equipment resistance.
However, if they are significantly different, it is possible that it will not operate since any difference will cause the blower speed to vary.
There are a couple of candidates out there that won’t cost you much money to try out if you are in the mood to experiment.
The thing is, it will ultimately accomplish the same thing.
Due to the fact that they are sleeved bushings, the motor will begin to draw more current as they wear down in order to compensate for the higher drag.
Resistors from other cars, on the other hand, might differ significantly from one vehicle to the next since they are depending on the size and current draw of the blower motor.
I’ve written down the resistance of the three resistors in some handwritten notes.
(If this is of any assistance to anyone) It is possible to deal with the problem directly if you are willing to do away with the unnecessary OE element.
Typically, the resistors themselves are not the source of the problem.
The connection is the source of the problem.
You can save the original resistors and detach them from the connector (which is no longer present because you spliced it out), and they will continue to function for many years after that.
It’s worth noting that the standard type resistors (seen in a slew of other cars over the years) that have the resistors placed independently nearby are constructed with thicker terminals that would be simpler to wire to in a retro-fit mod, if that’s where you went with it.
all that is left is the interconnection of the resistors and the switch to bring the motor to a stop.
It’s a little in comparison to his incredible 355 solutions, which are currently available at the supermod shop.
I’m not sure how legible the schematics are for you or anybody else, but if you unzip the zip file, you’ll find the blower schematic named ‘AC Blower.pdf.’ The resistor series chain (on the right-hand side of the picture) and the connections from the series chain of (3) resistors to the speed-control switch are shown in the drawing.
The motor’s (-)12 volts connection is represented by the single wire that runs from the motor down to the resistors and switch.
In other words, when you connect each link in the chain by moving the switch -back towards 0, you introduce more resistance to the system, which causes the motor to slow down.
From there, though, it’s a matter of flipping a switch.
That Splice-Pack is located on the passenger side of the vehicle, behind the airbox.]] According to the diagram.
Take note of the fact that it branches to both the resistor-chain (on the right) and the fan-speed switch (to the left).
The resistors are not present in the circuit when the speed is reduced to -4; the path is direct to the switch and from there through the traveling portion of the switch to ground (-12 volts).
It is possible, however, that it will cease to function entirely.
Pins (male and female) are represented by the arrows.
It is true that the drawing is fairly well-done and clear, but it also deceives the eye in that regard. In no way does this make it incorrect; it is simply that it is not obvious or clear in this manner.