Car AC blows warm at idle? (Correct answer)

Your AC system is low on refrigerant. Since the AC compressor is driven by the engine, it doesn’t pump as much refrigerant when you’re at a stop or driving slowly. If the system is low on refrigerant, it will show up as AC blows warm at idle and blows colder when the engine is running at higher RPMs.

  • #2 cause of AC blows warm at idle Your AC system is low on refrigerant. Since the AC compressor is driven by the engine, it doesn’t pump as much refrigerant when you’re at a stop or driving slowly. If the system is low on refrigerant, it will show up as AC blows warm at idle and blows colder when the engine is running at higher RPMs.

Why does my AC not cool when idling?

Blocked or Broken Condenser If the condenser has gone bad, it will not be able to process the freon and produce cool air. A broken condenser might malfunction when there is a cut back in power as when the car is idling or running the AC purely on the battery.

Why does AC only work when car is moving?

When the car is moving, versus stopped, there is more air flow over the condenser (the heat exchanger in front of the radiator) and that airflow is essential to system operation. Other possibilities are that the compressor clutch is not cycling as intended or that the condenser might be blocked or dirty.

Why does my car AC only get cold when I accelerate?

A Failing Expansion Valve If your A/C flip-flops from hot to cold and back again, your expansion valve could be failing. If the valve is blocked, the refrigerant flow could be restricted or could be too unrestricted. A slight restriction of refrigerant flow can cause that mechanical part/hardware to get very cold.

Why does my AC blows cold at idle but hot when driving?

Hot air when driving and cold when idling probably means you have a vacuum leak somewhere and the vents are going to “defrost” instead of “people” (it’s probably still cold, just not aimed at you). If it was reversed (cold when driving, hot when idling), you need to check your fans and your refrigerant.

How do I know if my car AC compressor is bad?

What Are the Signs and Symptoms of a Bad A/C Compressor?

  1. A Lack of Hot Air Being Released Outside.
  2. Loud or Strange Noises From the Unit.
  3. Failure of the Compressor to Turn On.
  4. Circuit Breaker Tripping.
  5. Leaks Around the Air Conditioning Unit.
  6. Warm Air Instead of Cool Air Being Delivered to the House.
  7. Reduced Airflow.

Why is my car AC cool but not cold?

The most common causes of broken air conditioning are leaks or compressor issues. If your air is blowing cool but not cold, the problem could be a clogged filter, cooling fan problem, radiator trouble, or it could simply be that you need to recharge your AC.

Why does my AC get hot when I park?

This is a classic symptom is very common. Most likely the cooling fan for the condenser is not turning on allowing the high side of the A/C system to get to hot. This reduces the cooling capacity of your system. From the relay you can supply power to the fan motor with a jumper wire and see if it turns on.

Why does my car AC not work when it’s hot outside?

The hotter it is outside, the harder the air conditioning in your vehicle has to work. Rising outside temperatures put extra strain on your entire vehicle and its cooling system, from the battery and belts to hoses and fluids, requiring each part to work overtime to keep your vehicle cool.

Why is my AC blowing warm air in my car?

The most common cause of an AC system blowing warm air is a lack of refrigerant, though, you may also have a problem with your condenser. Other possibilities include a faulty compressor, broken cooling fans, or an issue in your electrical system.

How much does it cost to recharge car AC?

A professional AC recharge cost ranges from $150 – $300 on average depending on the make and model of your vehicle. Due to refrigerant losses that occur over time, this service is one that should be added to your vehicle maintenance schedule.

How much does it cost to fix AC in car?

This generally includes replacing a few parts like hoses, sensors, or either the compressor or condenser. CostHelper readers report paying $171-$727 for minor air conditioning repairs, at an average cost of $488. Extensive auto air conditioning repairs can cost $1,000-$4,000 or more, depending on make and model.

5 Reasons Why Car Air Conditioner Not Blowing Cold Air When Idling

It’s unbearably hot in the summer, and it’s unbearably aggravating when you put on the air conditioning and wait for a cool breeze to arrive, only to receive nothing. A very typical problem with your car’s air conditioning equipment is that the machine does not blow cold air when the vehicle is idle. There are a variety of reasons why you could notice that your air conditioning only works when you’re driving but doesn’t blow cold air when you’re idling. Continue reading to find out the most prevalent reasons behind this, as well as how to resolve the issue in each instance.

Car AC Basics

Before delving into the probable causes of your car’s air conditioner not blowing cold air when it is idle, it is important to understand how your car’s air conditioning unit operates. This will make troubleshooting and resolving the issue much easier to understand and follow. The air conditioning system in your automobile operates with the help of a refrigerant and is comprised of the compressor, condenser, evaporator, orifice tube, and an accumulator, among other components. The compressor turns the refrigerant into a liquid by compressing it.

The condenser is comprised of a length of coils over which cold outside air travels, transferring heat from the compressed gas to the surrounding air.

Once cleansed, the compressed refrigerant is sent through the expansion valve, where it is relieved of its pressure and allowed to cool.

When you turn on your car’s air conditioning, air is forced through the newly chilled refrigerant in the compressor tank, which cools it down, and then pushed out via the blowers to cool you down.

Car AC not Blowing Cold Air When Idle: The Reasons

Most automobiles will have this issue at some point throughout their existence. Poor maintenance of the air conditioning unit is the most common cause of a car air conditioner that does not blow cold air when the vehicle is idle. It is critical to check on the system on a regular basis in order to keep it in excellent working order. Let’s take a look at some of the most likely causes of automobile air conditioning not blowing cold air when the vehicle is idling. When the car is idle, the air conditioner does not pump cold air, which is a very usual problem.

1. A Faulty condenser fan

Finding out why your automobile air conditioner isn’t blowing cold air when it’s idle should start with checking out the cooling fan in the condenser, which should be the first item you check out. If the fan is broken or unable to operate at full capacity, it will be unable to cool down the heat generated by the Freon (refrigerant) passing through the condenser. When driving at a high rate, the condenser does not require the use of a fan to cool the Freon since there is enough air going through it.

During the time when the automobile is not moving, the fan is the sole tool available for keeping the Freon cool.

To determine if the fan’s connections are loose or if it does not correctly sit in its slot, or if there is any damage that might prevent it from operating properly, you should inspect it. CHECK OUT MORE

  • Learn how to properly disassemble and reassemble a car’s air conditioning system at home. Which consumes more fuel, open windows or air conditioning?

2. Low Freon level

Here’s where you can get the greatest bargain on a high-quality used automobile from Japanese approved dealers. Because of the continuous operation of the air conditioning, the Freon is depleted. When the level falls below an acceptable level, you will have the problem of the car air conditioner not blowing cold air when the vehicle is idle. When the automobile is traveling at a high rate of speed on the interstate, the compressor has an easier time pumping the Freon, but when the car is at rest, the compressor suffers.

Another symptom of a low Freon level is if you do not hear the clutch engage as soon as you switch on the air conditioning in your car.

There may not be enough freon in the system, which would explain why it does not activate.


A leak in the air conditioning condenser is one probable cause of a low Freon level. The seals and tubes of the condenser are susceptible to regular wear and use, and they can fracture or break. A second potential is that the condenser will be damaged by physical hit from road debris or pebbles, given that it is placed towards the front of the vehicle. As a result of a leak in the condenser, the refrigerant charge might get depleted, resulting in poor AC performance, as the system is reliant on the refrigerant for its functioning.

If you look very, very closely, you might be able to make out a faint trace of refrigerant oil, but that’s about it.

As a result, if the condenser is leaking severely, you will need to replace the condenser in its whole because it is not viable to replace cracked or damaged seals or tubes.

Detecting Leaks

Leaks in the air conditioning system are most usually caused by worn O-rings, seals, and hoses, followed by leaks in the condenser and evaporator pinholes, and leaks in the compressor shaft seal. To check for leaks, first refill the system with refrigerant until it reaches the proper level, then switch on the air conditioner. Spraying soapy water on questionable locations and watching for bubbles is the most straightforward yet most effective way. It is sufficient to replace the O-rings, seal, or hose that is leaking in order to resolve the issue.

The repair of a leaky condenser or an evaporator, or the replacement of the compressor shaft seal, is more expensive and time-consuming, and it should only be conducted by a qualified technician in this case.

3. Clogged Condenser

In the event that any foreign item or debris enters the condenser and becomes lodged between the fins, the cooling process will be impaired, particularly while the vehicle is at rest. As a result of the building of residue in the refrigerant over time, condensers get clogged. This is due to the formation of a sticky paste, which prevents heat transmission from the heated refrigerant to the cold ambient air that is blasted over the condenser coil. READ ON FOR MORE INFORMATION

  • How to Replace an Air Conditioner Compressor
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The second most common reason for a condenser to malfunction is a blockage caused by foreign matter. Most of the time, this is caused by a worn compressor that is breaking down and scattering metallic internal components throughout the whole system. In the event that you have a blockage, you may need to replace not only the condenser but also the compressor that is malfunctioning, the tubes, as well as the receiver/dryer or accumulator, because metallic debris has polluted the entire system. Additionally, a clogged condenser can produce a problem known as short-cycling, which causes the air conditioning unit to cycle on and off quickly and ineffectively instead of operating at peak efficiency.

In this scenario, all that is required is to clean the filthy parts in order to remedy the problem of the car AC not blowing cold air when the vehicle is idling.

  • In the event your condenser is blocked with debris or anything else that is interfering with the unit’s efficiency, all you have to do is clean it thoroughly to restore the unit’s best performance. Dirty coil: Because the coil is the section of the unit that the cool ambient air is blasted across, it is prone to accumulating dust and other impurities in the air over time. The condenser’s capabilities may be restored simply by cleaning off the dirt that has accumulated on the coil.

4. Faulty or Worn Condenser Parts

The condenser itself is made up of a number of components, including the coil, the motor, the fins, the condenser relay switch, the run capacitor, as well as tubes and sealing materials. If these components get dusty or worn out as a result of age, your condenser may cease to perform properly. Sometimes it is possible to clean or replace the problematic part on its own, but other times it is necessary to replace the complete condenser or the entire air conditioning machine. It will be explained in further detail below when it is appropriate to repair or replace your defective condenser.

If you’re lucky, you can just replace certain faulty components as follows:

  • Defective Motor: A faulty motor must be replaced immediately. However, keep in mind that you must consult your owner’s handbook to ensure that you are using the right replacement motor in order to prevent inflicting even more harm to your air conditioning machine. Replacement of a faulty condenser relay switch is straightforward. A bad run capacitor can be easily replaced.

Sometimes, though, you are not so fortunate. The following issues will need the replacement of the entire condenser, or even worse, the complete air conditioning unit if they are not addressed:

  • A condenser blockage produced by metallic debris from a malfunctioning compressor is a serious problem, and you may be forced to replace more than the condenser itself, or worse, you may be forced to replace the entire air conditioning system. Damaged coil: Unless your coil is still covered by warranty, repairing a damaged coil is extremely difficult, costly, and time consuming. Otherwise, individuals typically replace the complete air conditioning unit, which is both speedier and less expensive.

The expense of replacing a condenser You might be wondering how much it would cost to replace an air conditioning condenser. The typical cost of replacing an air conditioning compressor is between $400 and $900, depending on the automobile in question. Labor expenditures would account for around half of this total, with the remaining portion representing the cost of the parts.

5. Overheated engine

An overheated engine is another typical cause of automobile air conditioners not blowing cold air when the vehicle is idle. The majority of automobiles are equipped with two cooling fans, one for the condenser and another for the radiator. The compressor in an air conditioning system is responsible for moving heat from the radiator to the condenser.

When the automobile has already reached its maximum temperature and the fans in the radiator and condenser are not functioning correctly for any reason, the cooling system will not be able to cool the heat down as efficiently as it should.

A/C blows warm @ idle – cold when driving?

Try spinning the fan blades on BOTH of your fans when the engine is turned off, and make sure that they are free to move around. If one fan motor is stiffer than the other, or if both fan motors are stiff, you will most likely need to replace both. Usually, when something like this works exclusively at high speeds and not at low speeds, air flow is the first thing I look for. If there is no debris in front of the condenser and the fans are actually both spinning freely and both turning on when the A/C is turned on, then I suppose I might install some pressure gauges in the system and observe what the pressures look like there.

  • Unlike when we utilized Freon, most fans do not suck in enough air at idle to sufficiently chill the air to keep your car cool during normal operation.
  • Now, if your automobile has a sight glass on the receiver/dryer unit or the little AC hose, you may check to see whether you’re getting a warm air feeling when the car is idle.
  • You must peek through the sight glass while the air conditioning is running to observe whether there are any bubbles in the glass.
  • If you don’t have a sight glass, it’s a safe assumption to make that you have a refrigerant leak if you see no cold air coming from the vents when the car is at idle.
  • Wishing you the best of luck.
  • on November 1, 2013, 553685 Despite the fact that my car has an R134A air conditioning system, the center vent only cools to roughly 40 degrees with the car at a standstill and the engine running at 1500 RPM’s.
  • Other R134A systems should provide performance that is comparable to this one.

Even so, I’d start by ruling out any issues with the cooling fans, and then then move on to testing the A/C pressures and sight glass.

Unlike when we utilized Freon, most fans do not suck in enough air at idle to sufficiently chill the air to keep your car cool during normal operation.

Now, if your automobile has a sight glass on the receiver/dryer unit or the little AC hose, you may check to see whether you’re getting a warm air feeling when the car is idle.

You must peek through the sight glass while the air conditioning is running to observe whether there are any bubbles in the glass.

If you don’t have a sight glass, it’s a safe assumption to make that you have a refrigerant leak if you see no cold air coming from the vents when the car is at idle.

Wishing you the best of luck.

Believe me when I say that if 134A did not blow cold at idle, there would be a lot of very unhappy consumers.

According to my observations, any system that does not blow cold at idle but blows cold while driving down the road either has a low charge, a weak compressor, or faulty cooling fan components. And I completely agree with Raistian77’s point of view.

Why Your AC Is Not Blowing Cold Air When Idle

Many things influence the cooling performance of your air conditioner. Here are a few examples: It commonly experiences a decline while the vehicle is not in motion, although a drop of this sort is usually not observed by the average driver since the circulation of freon is not significantly affected. Even when you are in an unusual situation, you may find that your car’s air conditioning does not perform properly merely when you need to idle. When they come to a complete halt for a period of time, some people’s air conditioning may entirely shut down.

  1. This is a prevalent problem that has left many people perplexed.
  2. When a malfunctioning air conditioner is subjected to a power restriction, the first indicators of trouble might appear.
  3. The lower cooling capacity is not the consequence of a shutdown, but rather of a reduction in capacity, which is sometimes misunderstood as a shutdown.
  4. When the air conditioner is idle, it has two characteristics that restrict its cooling capacity: low RPMs and lower airflow.
  5. To put that into perspective, when the car is moving, the tachometer typically keeps a reading of 2000–2800 RPM.
  6. The other factor that contributes to the reduction in power and interference with the regular operation of the air conditioner is a reduction in airflow over the condenser coil.
  7. As a result, the temperature of the refrigerant rises, and the total capacity of the system decreases.
  8. However, if you accelerate your car while it is still idling, you will find that the cooling capacity of your air conditioning increases almost immediately.

These were the two most common causes of automobile air conditioning not blowing cold air when the vehicle is idle; however, there are a few more that might indirectly create such an issue and should not be overlooked-

  • Debris, an overheating engine, and low refrigerant levels are all possible causes of a faulty or failing fan clutch.

Low refrigerant levels

Typically, a leak will result in a large reduction in the refrigerant levels, which may be detected by looking for a considerable decrease in cooling performance. When your vehicle is idle, you may experience a similar decline in cooling due to a leak. The compressor is responsible for circulating freon throughout the air conditioning system in order to cool the cabin, and it performs its best while the vehicle is moving due to the amount of power it can take from the engine. The combination of a stalling engine and a low level of offreon will result in the compressor being unable to circulate enough refrigerant owing to a lack of power as well as a lack of freon.

Bad or Failing Fan Clutch

Another explanation for a car’s air conditioning not blowing cold when it is idling is due to this. If the flow of air in your automobile is interrupted while it is idle but resumes when you begin to drive, the first place you should look is at the motor fans. When your automobile is at rest, the motor fans that circulate the flow of freon are intensively utilized by the air conditioning system. A secondary cooler will not be required while the vehicle is in motion.

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Blocked or Broken Condenser

If your car’s air conditioning is not blowing cold when it is idle, this might be another contributing factor. It is the motor fans that should be checked first if the flow of air in your automobile is paused when the vehicle is idle but resumes while the vehicle is moving. In order to circulate the flow of freon when your automobile is at rest, the motor fans are actively utilized. When the car is moving, the air conditioning system will not require the use of a second cooler.


Because automotive air conditioners are placed at the front of the vehicle, contamination or any form of debris entering the system is a regular problem. The material can cause obstructions in the condenser as well as the failure of the cooling fans, which are two of the most serious difficulties. Such problems, which can be created by foreign items and have a variety of negative consequences for the system, should be managed by professionals who do thorough inspections. If you find yourself idling without adequate cooling after a very windy day, it may be a sign that your air conditioning system has been damaged.

Overheating Engine

There are a variety of issues that can arise from an overheated engine, one of which is a loss in cooling capacity. In addition, because the engine is not operating at peak performance, it is unable to send the necessary quantity of energy to the air conditioning system. As a result, the ability of the air conditioner to function normally is reduced, and the cooling effect is reduced even further, particularly when the RPM is reduced.


The ability to pay close attention to the smallest of details can be critical in locating the source of a problem in various situations. A strange instance like this, which has ties to the engine itself, should not be treated lightly; yet, in this case, a competent auto servicemay be sufficient to have your air conditioning back up and running.

Please let us know if you are encountering any such issues that are confusing you, or if you have any questions about automobile air conditioning and idling that you would like addressed in the comments section below. The following two tabs alter the content of the section below.

| Automotive Enthusiast | Member of the VC Digital Team

Why Does My Car Air Conditioner Blow Cold Then Warm?

On a hot summer day, there’s nothing quite like turning up the air conditioning in your automobile to keep cool. There are few things that feel better than a refreshing burst of air! But what if your car’s air conditioner alternates between blowing cold and warm air? If you get the impression that your air conditioner is playing tricks on you and isn’t blowing cold air for an extended period of time, it may be time to bring your A/C troubles to your nearest Firestone Complete Auto Care. There are a variety of factors that might be causing your car’s air conditioning to blast cold air first and then warm air second, including:

A Leak in the A/C System

The most typical reason for a car’s air conditioning to progressively lose its cool is a little refrigerant leak. Moisture and refrigerant combine to form a corrosive acid that eats away at the seals, valves, and rubber hoses in the air conditioning system. This is the most common source of leaks in air conditioning systems. Because there isn’t enough refrigerant in the system to cool things down, a leak in your A/C system might be causing the unit to blow warm air instead of chilly air. Worse still, the acid can corrode the interior of your compressor, causing metal shards to spread throughout your A/C system and resulting in extensive damage, obstruction, and component failure.

A Faulty Compressor Clutch

The air conditioning compressor clutch is one of the most critical components of your vehicle’s air conditioning system. It enables the pulley to engage and disengage from engine power as needed, ensuring that the compressor only operates when necessary. Because it is constantly cycling on and off, it is subjected to wear and tear with each usage of your air conditioning system. When there is a problem with the compressor clutch, your air conditioner will not be able to keep up with the demand for cool air.

A Failing Expansion Valve

If your air conditioner alternates between being hot and being chilly, it is possible that your expansion valve is failing. During the evaporation process, the expansion valve relieves pressure from liquid refrigerant, which allows it to expand from a liquid to a vapor state. It is possible that the refrigerant flow will be restricted or too unconstrained if the valve is obstructed. A little obstruction in refrigerant flow might cause a mechanical part or piece of equipment to become very cold.

  1. The accumulation of frost or ice inside the system might make the operation even more difficult.
  2. Your air conditioner is blowing warm air.
  3. Contrary to popular belief, allowing too much refrigerant to flow into the evaporator does not result in colder air being produced.
  4. During the course of the system’s attempts to regulate the expansion valve or to cycle the compressor, the flow rate of the refrigerant might return to normal, at which point you may observe that the air temperature begins to fall once more.

Note any pools of water under your vehicle – this might indicate a freezing issue and can assist your technician in diagnosing the problem.

A Blown Fuse or Electrical Issue

The air conditioning system in your automobile is comprised of a maze of wires, switches, relays, and fuses. The electricity delivered to the A/C unit by these sections and parts under normal working conditions allows you to have cool air delivered on demand. If even one of these components fails, your air conditioner may shut down and begin spewing heated air. While this helps to avoid potentially deadly electrical fires, it also means that a simple, single blown fuse might force your entire air conditioning system to go off.

Help Us Diagnose Your Car’s A/C Problem

Take note of the following to assist our professionals in determining the source of the problem that is causing your A/C to blow cold then warm:

  • Take note of the following to assist our professionals in determining the source of the problem that is causing your air conditioning to blow cold then warm:

When your car’s air conditioning blows cold first, then warm, take it to your local Firestone Complete Auto Care. AnA/C performance checkis the quickest and most straightforward method of determining what is wrong with your car’s air conditioner. Make an appointment online or visit your local store to get started right now!

Car a/c blows warm at idle and cool when driving. HELP!

When you’re driving, the ram air is cooling the refrigerant within the condenser, and when you’re at idle (with no ram air), the condenser fan isn’t getting enough airflow to cool the refrigerant, and therefore isn’t operating. Check the fans to see if they’re turning on and running through their regular cycle; also, make sure the compressor clutch is turning on and running through its typical cycle; you should be able to tell rather simply. Take it to someone who can re-gas it; it may also be due to a blocked filter, which they will replace when doing the repair; if they fail to detect the problem, you have a lousy technician on your hands.

  • I’m overjoyed.
  • It doesn’t matter if the engine has just started or if it has been running for two hours and I come to a complete halt.
  • However, it is the factory-installed fan that hasn’t been changed since the purchase, and the fan appears to be blowing a lot of air.
  • But, if there wasn’t enough airflow, wouldn’t the engine overheat as well, given how much air the engine radiator requires?

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Why does my car AC get warm when I stop?

Whenever you are trying to figure out why your automobile air conditioner isn’t blowing cold air while it is running, start with the cooling fan in the condenser and work your way down. If the fan is broken or unable to operate at full capacity, it will be unable to cool down the heat generated by the Freon (refrigerant) passing through the condenser. In comparison to when the vehicle is at rest, while the vehicle is moving, there is greater air flow over the condenser (the heat exchanger in front of the radiator), and this airflow is critical for the operation of the system.

  1. Furthermore, why isn’t my air conditioning chilly when the car is idling?
  2. The fact that heat from Freon (refrigerant) is normally cooled as it passes through the condenser is one of the reasons why a faulty cooling fan has such a major impact on air conditioners.
  3. The car’s air conditioning blows cold first, then warm.
  4. Here’s how to track down the root of the problem.
  5. When your vehicle begins to move, the airflow helps to replenish the cooling capacity of your system.

Bubbles indicate that your system is running short on ACrefrigerant, which typically indicates that a leak is occuring in your system’s construction.

My A/c blows cold when moving hot when idle

It’s been a while since I’ve truly messed around with the air conditioning settings in a vehicle. I suppose you may have the system synchronised while leaving the rear air conditioning turned off (Sync should only sync the temp of the front two zones, unless you also have the rear set to front control and auto temp). The rear air conditioning control panel must be secured so that it can only be operated by the main (front) controller, and the rear air conditioning must not be turned off. In the centre of the temperature display, you should notice the words “REAR AUTO.” In the case of the 2011, start at page 333 of your owner’s handbook and work your way down from there.) If you’re still not sure, simply pop your head around the back of the vehicle and set the rear controls to their highest cooling settings.

  1. The next step is to increase the fan speed on the back of the system to its maximum level (use both sets of controls if you’re not sure which one is actually regulating it).
  2. If the fan does not turn on at all, regardless of the speed setting, this is not the problem.
  3. There is no fuse for the blower motor at the rear.
  4. We can go a little farther if you’re adept with a wrench and have the necessary tools.
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Why is My Car AC Blowing Hot Air?

It might be a rude awakening to find yourself in your automobile after a beautiful spring day in the sun. When your car is left in direct sunshine, the glass and interior of the vehicle behave very much like a greenhouse. The sun’s energy can enter your home through your windows or be absorbed by your metal roof, but it has no ability to leave through any other means. It is possible that on bright days, the trapped heat will cause the interior of your car to become quite hot. You may assist moderate this impact by tinting your windows, painting your car a light color, or employing a windshield sunshade, but even these are not answers; they only serve to significantly diminish the burn scars on the backs of your thighs caused by your heated leather seats on long journeys.

Of course, it takes a few seconds for the air to cool down, but what if you’ve been driving for a minute or two and your car’s air conditioner is still pumping hot air in your direction?

Before you rush down to the dealership and shell out money for a vehicle inspection to figure out why your car’s air conditioner isn’t blowing cold air, check for some of the more frequent and easy to solve issues listed below before calling the shop.

“Why is my AC blowing hot air?” Check These Common Causes:

  • Broken cooling fans
  • Broken condenser
  • Low refrigerant owing to a leak
  • Electrical failures
  • Blocked condenser

The condenser in your car’s air conditioning system has a similar appearance to a radiator and is located at the front of the vehicle. It is utilized to cool the hot compressed refrigerant back down to ambient temperature when it exits your compressor, and it does so by utilizing the air that your vehicle is passing through. It is necessary to achieve this because otherwise, the refrigerant would still be hot when it passes through the expansion valve. If this is the case, the heated refrigerant will only be cooled back down to ambient temperature, preventing your air conditioner from functioning.

  1. A simple visual check of the condenser via your grill will help you determine whether or not it is clogged with debris.
  2. The fans might be physically damaged, such as by a burned-out motor, a defective mount, or a chipped fan blade, or they could simply be experiencing an electrical problem, such as a blown fuse or a burned-out relay.
  3. If the puncture is substantial and clearly visible, it is probable that replacement is your best option.
  4. Similar to this, you may have low refrigerant levels owing to a variety of different factors such as weak connections, outdated hoses, or the simple leakage of refrigerant with time.
  5. Check your air conditioning system before you recharge it with new refrigerant to make sure it is properly sealed and will contain the new refrigerant.
  6. It is possible for a typically functioning system to stop working merely because of a defective connection or a malfunctioning sensor, for example, due to broken condenser fans or an electrical failure.
  7. Read our article on diagnosing electrical problems for more information on tracking down electrical issues like this.

All you need to cure many common air conditioning problems is a simple visual check and a can of Red Angel A/C Stop Leak, which is available at any hardware store. Pick up a can of Red Angel A/C Stop LeakConditioner today from one of our affiliated auto parts retailers.

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586 responses to “Why is My Car AC Blowing Hot Air?”

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About four times in the last year, I’ve taken my 2003 Lincoln Town Car into the local dealership for service. Before I acquired the vehicle in September of last year, the previous owner had installed a new air conditioning compressor. It was chilly, but it took a long time for it to get chilled. Then, this spring, on the first very hot day, the air conditioning failed to kick on. I took it to the dealer, who informed me that the system had run out of refrigerant. They charged it up and inserted the dye so that they could determine where the leak was coming from.

  • Then, when the weather warmed up in the spring, I discovered that the car would be frigid while moving but would only blow slightly cooled air when stopped or idled.
  • I paid for the replacement of the item.
  • The next day, I returned it to the dealership for a refund.
  • It was explained to me that they had replaced the AC line, but that this may not be the end of the leaky AC lines.
  • Could another leak occur in such a short period of time?
  • Although it blasts such freezing cold air when in motion, even at 4 mph, in traffic during the summer, it becomes really uncomfortable in the car during the day.
  • Also, when the vehicle is at idle, if the driver shifts into neutral (or keeps the vehicle in Park) and revs the engine a bit, the vehicle instantly begins to blast chilly air.

So far, I’ve spent around $1500 on repairs, plus the cost of the original owner’s new air conditioning compressor.

It appears strange that simply revving the engine a bit can result in chilly air after the engine is stopped.

This has been the case with every automobile I’ve ever owned.

You may get it examined, or you can go to Autozone and get an AC pressure gage there (looks like a tire gage, but hooks onto the AC lines).

In addition, the engine’s accessories are suited to highway speeds and RPM.

There are two speed settings on the electric cooling fan: high and low.

Aside from that, is the cooling fan constantly on while the air conditioning is turned on?

It is also possible that the pressure switch that regulates compressor engagement is faulty or inattentive.

Because the compressor was engaged for a longer period of time before low side pressure went below the compressor disengagement threshold when my car had low refrigerant, I discovered that it cooled better at idle than at fast speed when my car had low refrigerant.

Designer Chris H.2006 Chris H.2006 It would be a very cold day in hell before I returned to them for any type of service again.

Find a company that provides mobile air conditioning service. Alternatively, you may have him diagnose your condition or you could take it to a reputable independent doctor. You could have changed the entire system for $1500 if you had done it yourself.

A/C Blows Warm When Idling: A/C Blows Cold While Vehicle Is in .

Greetings, and good morning. Because of a lack of airflow through the radiator or because the cooling fan is not operating at maximum speed, this occurs. Is the cooling fan running at full speed when the vehicle is at rest? If I were you, I’d clean the radiator and condenser fins since the lack of airflow will cause the A/C to be too hot when the car is idling. Roy Storage and placement of the drive unit on a bench should not be done with the rear of the shaft pointed downward to avoid silicone fluid from leaking into the fan drive bearing.

It is sufficient to simply unfasten the unit from the water pump and remove it from the vehicle.

Remove the screws that keep the assembly together and disassemble it to remove the fan from the clutch drive.

Then press the strip to one side so that the opposing end of the strip will pop out of its position.

Examine the piston to ensure that the coupling device is free to move.

If the bi-metal strip is destroyed, the complete device must be replaced.

When reassembling, make sure that the control piston is installed such that the protrusion on the end of it contacts the metal strip on the other side.

Using a clean cloth soaked in solvent, clean the clutch drive once it has been reassembled.

Install the assembly in the reverse sequence in which it was taken apart.

The unit must be changed if the current one does not perform correctly.

Once normal operating temperature has been established, accelerate the engine to a rapid idle speed (1000 RPM).

The device must be run for at least five minutes immediately before to being tested, regardless of the temperature at which it is placed.

If a significant amount of effort is required, it can be considered that the coupling is performing properly.

This coupling should be changed as soon as possible.

Zoom/Print It is possible to test the clutch fan while the car is being driven.

Because the temperature-controlled, free-wheeling component has been turned off, the clutch works similarly to a regular fan.

If this resolves the overheating problem, the clutch fan should be replaced. Image (Click on the image to see it larger.) AT 4:25 A.M. ON SATURDAY, JULY 11TH, 2020, A SPONSORED LINK

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