- If you own a GM truck or SUV and the daytime running lights don’t work, check out the daytime running light (DRL) relay or wiring. The DRL relay is located in the convenience center. It’s the center relay.
What causes daytime running lights not working?
If only one daytime running light is not working, it most likely has a burnt out bulb or a bad switch. Since DRL can run for a long time, see if the socket burned or melted, and replace it if so. Check the contact point of the bulb for melting.
How do I know if my DRL relay is bad?
Headlights Don’t Turn On The most common sign of a bad headlight relay is headlights that don’t work. A headlight relay will typically fail in the open position, preventing voltage from reaching the headlights. If the low beam relay fails, the low beams won’t work.
How do you test a DRL relay?
Diagnose the DRL relay daylight hours with parking brake OFF and transmission in drive, remove the DRL relay from the socket and use your voltmeter to check for battery voltage on one terminal in the relay socket and partial voltage in another terminal. Then check for good ground on the other two terminals.
Where is the fuse for the rear running lights?
The tail light fuse may be located in either the fuse panel in the front passenger side of your vehicle or in the main fuse box under the hood. Once you’ve opened either the panel or the main fuse box, locate the tail light fuse. If you’re unsure which one it is, use the owner’s manual for guidance.
Can daytime running lights be turned off?
Please remember, daytime running lights (DRL) are a safety feature that can help make it easier for others to see the front of your vehicle during the day. If your vehicle is equipped with a ‘DRL OFF’ setting, they can be turned off by twisting the headlight control knob to ‘DRL OFF.’
How long do daytime running lights Last?
An LED daytime running light, on the other hand, has a service life of 10,000 hours and usually lasts as long as the car.
Why are my running tail lights not working?
The most common reason why your tail lights are not working but brake lights are is due to a bad or wrong type of light bulb installed. It can also be caused by a blown fuse, bad wirings, or corroded sockets or plugs. A faulty control light switch could also be to blame.
Do daytime running lights stay on all the time?
Daytime running lights (or DRLs) are a relatively new feature on most cars. DRLs are lights located on the front of a vehicle that remain on whenever the engine is running. Unlike headlights, daytime running lights are fairly dim and don’t illuminate the road ahead.
What does a daytime running light module do?
A dedicated daytime running light module is used in some vehicles to automatically control low beam headlight operation. The module receives input from various sensors and switches including the ambient light sensor, ignition switch, headlamp switch and parking brake switch.
Is it common for both headlights to go out?
Even though both of your headlight bulbs have been exposed to the exact same conditions, they usually won’t fail at exactly the same time. So it’s actually pretty common to have one bulb burn out before the other.
How does a DRL module work?
The DRLs are a safety feature, but are not required on all vehicles in the United States. The daytime running lamp module receives a signal from the ignition when your vehicle is started. Once the module receives this signal, your DRLs turn on. Over time, the DRLs module can short circuit or have electrical problems.
Do LED work with DRL?
Yes, you can use LED bulbs as DRLs, but you need to ensure they’re car compatible, correctly installed, and dimmed at night to prevent blinding other drivers. You might also need extra components such as a resistor or CANBus adapter to avoid flickering. Why LED Day Running Lights are safe, if used correctly.
GM daytime running lights don’t work
There are a few distinct daytime running light schematics used by General Motors, but the majority of them employ a series wiring system that divides battery voltage in half using series wiring. Here’s how the General Motors daytime running lights system operates:
Read further: GM daytime running lights don’t work? (The answer is found)
How GM daytime running lights work
Following a thirty-second wait after turning on your vehicle’s ignition without turning on its headlights, the body control module (BCM) checks the voltage on its ambient light sensor. The IGN must be in the RUN position, the parking brake must not be engaged, and the gearbox must not be in the PARK position in order for the DRL system to function. If all of these requirements are satisfied, and the BCM concludes that there is daylight, it grounds the control coil on the DRL relay, indicating that the light is on.
Because the electricity is routed in series through both HIGH beam headlights, each light is only half as bright as the other.
NOTE: Both HIGH beam bulbs must have good filaments for the DRL system to work
Daytime running lights are wired in this schematic.
Test daytime running light circuit
Check the EXT LTS fuse for proper operation. Start the engine with a buddy in the car during daytime hours, with the parking brake down and the gearbox in first gear. Remove the connection from the right high beam bulb and check for battery voltage on the orange wire that is connected to the bulb’s connector. If you observe battery voltage, you have validated that the fuse is in good working order and that the wiring to the correct beam is in excellent working order. Then, backprobe the bulb connector on the left high beam to make sure it’s working properly (do not remove the connector).
If you notice about 6 volts, the system is currently operational.
Diagnose the DRL relay
With a friend in the vehicle, start the engine during daylight hours with the parking brake off and the transmission in drive. Remove the DRL relay from the socket and use your voltmeter to check for battery voltage on one terminal in the relay socket and partial voltage on another terminal. Repeat this procedure for the other terminal. Then verify to see that the other two terminals have excellent ground. You should suspect a faulty ambient light sensor or a failed body control module if the DRL relay control coil does not appear to have proper grounding.
Rick Muscoplat is a professional musician.
Chevy Daytime Running Light Problems Solved for Good
Socket for the Chevrolet Daytime Running Lights has melted. The issue with the Chevrolet daytime running lights is a widespread one. For more than a decade, mechanics have been replacing melted sockets and bulbs that were originally fitted by the manufacturer. In this post, we’ll also talk about concerns with ambient light sensors. It’s noteworthy that this problem, which affected a large number of vehicles throughout the entire General Motors product range, never resulted in a mandatory safety recall.
So, despite the fact that the sockets have melted, I believe that they have not really ignited any car fires as a result of this.
In spite of this, owners who detect that a daytime running light is not functioning will frequently require more than simply replacing the 3157 component number bulb. Here, we’ll discuss what it takes to get the work done properly so that you don’t have to replace them on a regular basis.
Testing The Chevy Daytime Running Light
Bulb with a long life span (3157NA). A short word on the Chevrolet daytime running light that was recently tested. They do not illuminate while the truck is in Park and the engine is running. However, if you set the parking brake, they will activate for the purpose of testing. In the working-class neighborhood where I live, there are a plethora of 10-year-old Chevrolet pickup trucks cruising the streets. The vast majority of them have at least one daylight running light turned on and ready to go.
When a state-run inspection is conducted, several states require that all external lighting bulbs exhibit adequate functionality.
Because these external lamps remain illuminated throughout the day, they exert more effort than any other outdoor lighting of same size and design.
Once you reach this point, just changing the bulb will result in an incredibly annoying reoccurring problem.
Why We Replace the Chevrolet Light Socket
In order to keep the light housing in place, Chevrolet employs retaining pins. Listed below is a fantastic article with photographs. If you require further information on how to access the bulb, please contact us. When you remove the light socket in order to have access to the daytime running light, you will almost always notice the problem immediately afterward. If you look closely at the photo in the first paragraph, you can see the scorched socket that was created. This isn’t even an outlier situation.
- In other cases, you may only notice minor damage because the lamp socket has a yellowish or off-white hue to it rather of being completely black.
- If it’s melted to the degree that it can’t effectively keep the bulb in place, you’ll have intermittent functioning over bumps, as you’d anticipate.
- In order to avoid wasting any more time attempting to squeeze another six months or year out of this deteriorating socket, we propose that you just replace it.
- The two and three wire lamp sockets were cut and spliced into the factory wiring harness to complete the project.
- We also propose the Sylvania 3157NA replacement bulbs, which have a long life span.
It should be noted that some Chevrolet vehicles have light housings that are amber in hue. The replacement light in these systems is housed in a transparent casing. These are classified as part number 3157 since they do not have the natural amber indication.
Ambient Light Sensor Problems
Sensor for Ambient Light The ambient light sensor is located in the center of the dashboard, at the base of the windshield. When it detects light, it permits the electricity to flow to the sockets for the Chevrolet daytime running lights. There are a few of fascinating aspects to this automated configuration. The first advantage is that drivers do not have to remember to turn on their headlights because they are activated automatically as night falls. Drivers have, on the other hand, complained to me on more than one occasion about daytime running lamps that were completely inoperative.
- It has happened to me in the same circumstance where I have discovered damaged ambient light sensors caused by tools or heavier things being placed in the region where the sensor attaches.
- Many people assume that in order to gain access to the dashboard, you must first rip it free.
- How to fix hazy headlight lenses is covered in more detail in a companion article.
- Because I am an Amazon Associate, I receive money when people make eligible purchases.
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Daytime running lights not working – Chevy Message Forum
|Username||Post: Daytime running lights not working(Topic 78139)|
|Long Bed ZMember Posts: 5Reg: 10-16-04User InfoSend Private TopicView Profile||10-16-04 02:50 PM-Post532241Yep, I have another question.I just bought a 1996 Chevrolet 3500 Dually.Everything works, but the daytime running lights.I have checked the fuse in the fuse panel on the side of the dash, (and there is power to the fuse) but I can’t seem to locate the relay that operates the low beam headlight bulbs when you turn on the ignition switch.Anyone have any ideas on what to check next?|
|Diamond JimSenior Member Posts: 385Loc: central NC coastReg: 02-26-04User InfoSend Private TopicView Profile||Re: Daytime running lights not working10-16-04 04:48 PM-Post532242 In response toLong Bed ZYou need to get a wiring diagram, and check it out. Sounds like it has been modified so the DRL’s don’t come on. There were several ways of doing this but I don’t have a clue as to what was done to your truck.One way it was done lets your low beams stay on when you switch on your high beams. If this happens look for a relay that has been wired in somewhere near the drivers side headlight. But this isn’t the only way it was done on the OBS trucks.Diamond Jim 98 Burb, 5.7L, 2500LS, 4X4; 80 GMC 383, ½, Longbed; 74 Dually Flatbed 350; 73 Shortbed 350 4X4; 41 Chevy Master Deluxe, 327/375hp Rochester FI; 69 Nova w/6.0L Gen IV.|
|wkobeSenior Member Posts: 489Reg: 02-04-04User InfoSend Private TopicView Profile||Re: Daytime running lights not working10-17-04 02:49 PM-Post532243 In response toDiamond Jimdoes the green light come on on the dash if so i would say its the drl controllerwayne 1996 k1500 4.3276k miles 1996 k2500 5.7118k miles 1998 k2500 5.7115k miles|
|MattMember2440 Posts: 7867Loc: SAVReg: 09-26-01User InfoSend Private TopicView Profile||Re: Daytime running lights not working10-17-04 03:24 PM-Post532244 In response toLong Bed Zthought DRL’s started on ’97 unless canadian?|
|wkobeSenior Member Posts: 489Reg: 02-04-04User InfoSend Private TopicView Profile||Re: Daytime running lights not working10-17-04 03:30 PM-Post532245 In response toMattnope 96 i have one also that they dont work but i dont care cuz it saves on headlightswayne 1996 k1500 4.3276k miles 1996 k2500 5.7118k miles 1998 k2500 5.7115k miles|
|someotherguySenior Moderator Posts: 29514Loc: TexasReg: 08-01-03User InfoSend Private TopicView Profile||Re: Daytime running lights not working10-17-04 04:56 PM-Post532246 In response towkobeRight; I’ve got them on my ’96 but have the fuse removed.Richard06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8|
|BigChevy80Senior Member Posts: 598Age: 38 Loc: Gridley, ILReg: 12-04-03User InfoSend Private TopicView Profile||Re: Daytime running lights not working10-18-04 01:41 PM-Post532247 In response tosomeotherguyMy ’96 C1500 had them. untill I pulled the fuse outDRL’s = STOOOPIDTony1991 Chevrolet C15001998 Ford Explorer’Natural Gas Vern!Kinda like your first wife: hot, fast and cheap!’ -Ernest P. Worrell|
|AnonymousUser InfoSend Private TopicView Profile||Re: Daytime running lights not working10-18-04 04:50 PM-Post532248 In response toBigChevy80I wish my ’95 had them.|
|Dave McNallySenior Member Posts: 448Reg: 11-24-03User InfoSend Private TopicView Profile||Re: Daytime running lights not working10-19-04 01:35 AM-Post532249 In response toLong Bed Z Quote:
Anyone have any ideas on what to check next?
Most likely the diode is burned out. It is under the dash just to the right of the steering column. It looks like a large black heat sink about the size of your computer mouse. You can test it by unplugging it and putting a jumper wire in it place.
|gjwanmanMember Posts: 20Reg: 10-19-04User InfoSend Private TopicView Profile||Re: Daytime running lights not working10-19-04 10:23 AM-Post532250 In response toLong Bed ZMake sure your E brake pedal is fully retracted.Doesn’t take much to turn them off.|
|someotherguySenior Moderator Posts: 29514Loc: TexasReg: 08-01-03User InfoSend Private TopicView Profile||Re: Daytime running lights not working10-19-04 11:21 AM-Post532251 In response togjwanmanAbsolutely.But if it’s depressed enough to cancel the DRL’s, it should also be enough that your brake warning light should be on.I used to drive around with my parking brake set just a click or two to turn off the DRL’s but keeping it at that ‘just barely made the switch’ position, one day I heard a terrible arcing noise and noticed the DRL/brake warning lights were flickering on my dash.The switch was just barely not making contact.I figured it would be better to just remove the DRL fuse.I know this is exactly the opposite of what the original poster is after, but I figured I’d toss in my experience of using the parking brake pedal to cancel DRL’s.Richard06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8|
Amazon.com: Daytime Running Lights & Turn Signal Socket Assembly For GM : Automotive
On March 9, 2016, a review was published in the United States, and a verified purchase was made. I purchased a pair of them and they arrived within a short period of time. Using a clip, I removed the old sockets that had been unstable for around 2 years after my 2002 Suburban was purchased. This particular era of Chevrolet vehicles can always be distinguished by the absence of both working daytime running lights as well as the fact that the socket is faulty. The bulbs generate heat, which causes the plastic to bend.
- It’s also tough to remove the bulbs because of heat distortion in the sockets, as well as corrosion in the connections.
- Basically, I just snipped out the bad GM sockets and soldered them together after covering the splice with some heatshrink tubing.
- Let’s hope there’s some sturdiness to this as well.
- It’s just been 6 weeks, but the lights are still in great working order.
- 5.0 stars out of 5 for this product Good fit, bigger cables, and everything works as it should.
- Holeman on March 9, 2016I purchased a pair of them and they arrived within a short period of time.
- This particular era of Chevrolet vehicles can always be distinguished by the absence of both working daytime running lights as well as the fact that the socket is faulty.
There is no difference between using dielectric grease or not using dielectric grease.
After everything is said and done, these sockets look to be almost identical to my factory sockets in terms of appearance and fitting, however the wires are at least two gauge sizes bigger in diameter than mine.
The configuration is flawless.
I’ve attached a photo of the tubing after it’s been shrunk.
My Suburban stands out in a cluster of Chevrolet pickup vehicles because both of its headlights are operational!
Purchase that has been verified This new light socket is a perfect match for the socket that I had previously purchased.
Purchase that has been verified It is possible to make these function.
Regardless, I ordered these since they looked to be a close match.
The fit is just perfect.
On October 18, 2016, a review was conducted in the United States.
After replacing the old one with a new one, I put LED lights, which were clearly indicated to make it simple to splice in the old wire and reconnect.
I was under the impression that it would have three wires, which is exactly what I needed.
In addition to driving lights, I require it to function as a turn signal.
As a result, I’ll have to get some alternative ones.
The second one appeared to be badly constructed, with cables spilling out of the frame.
I am constantly astounded by the almost limitless range of products that can be found on Amazon.
It would have been wonderful to have a connection of some form to connect to the wires supplied by the manufacturer, which was reviewed in the United States on January 30, 2015Verified Purchase This isn’t a huge deal.
The clip that you use to release the light broke during installation, but the light has remained in place thus far.
How to Troubleshoot a Daytime Running Lights Problem
Yulaki Khvenchuk’s photograph of a headlight is courtesy of Fotola.com. When you have daytime running lights on your car, you are providing a safety feature that allows other drivers to see your vehicle on the road during the daytime. They also help you see more clearly on the road throughout the daytime and at night. If something goes wrong with your daytime running lights, you should have them repaired as soon as possible. Regardless of whether your vehicle has high beams or a separate light assembly for the daytime running lights, the troubleshooting technique is the same for all scenarios.
Loose Electrical Connector
Close the hood of the car after turning off the engine. The daytime running light assembly may be found near the front of the engine compartment on the left side of the engine.
Obtain access to the assembly that houses the daylight operating lights. Some cars have a separate daytime running light assembly, however the majority of vehicles just use the headlight system for this purpose. Screws are used to fasten the light assemblies to the vehicle’s bodywork on the majority of automobiles. To remove the light assembly, use a Phillips screwdriver to pry it apart. Place all of the screws in a secure location to ensure that none of them are misplaced.
Pull on the electrical connector located at the rear of the unit to release it. If the connection comes loose or comes out of the assembly, secure it by inserting it securely into the back of the assembly. To put it through its paces, tug it once more. If the daytime running lights continue to fail, it is possible that the problem is due to a burned out bulb. Reinstall the headlight assembly and seal the hood to complete the process.
Burned Out Bulb
To find the bulb, follow the steps in Section 1 (Steps 1 and 2).
Remove the bulb that is utilized by the daytime running lights from the vehicle’s ignition system. If you are unclear of how to remove the bulb, refer to your owner’s handbook for instructions on how to do so. On most cars, the technique consists of rotating the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it from the assembly, followed by pulling the bulb out of the socket once the socket has been rotated.
Replace the incandescent bulb with a more energy-efficient replacement. If you are still unclear about the sort of bulb to use, go to your owner’s handbook once again. Reinstall the unit into the car and close the hood to complete the installation. A blown fuse may be the source of the problem if the daytime running lights are still not operating properly.
Blown Out Fuse
Close the hood after turning off the engine. Identify where the fuse box is located in the engine compartment. The majority of the time, it is located just behind the battery.
Remove the lid from the fuse box, which may be found in the engine compartment of the vehicle. On Ford and Chevrolet automobiles, a schematic depicting the location of each fuse within the fuse box may be found on the bottom of the fuse box lid (see image below). Locate the fuse labeled ‘DRL,’ which stands for ‘Daytime Running Lamp.’ If you are unclear of where the fuse is located, consult the owner’s handbook for your car.
Removing the ‘DRL’ fuse from the fuse box and replacing it with a new fuse will complete the repair. Replace the cover on the fuse box and close the hood to complete the installation. References
- Among the manuals available are ‘Owner’s Manual Saab 9-3 M2007’ from Saab Automobile AB in 2006, ‘2010 Ford Focus Owner’s Manual’ from Ford Motor Company in 2009, and ‘2009 Chevrolet Cobalt Owner’s Manual’ from Chevrolet. General Motors Corporation, 2008
- ‘2009 Pontiac G6 Owner Manual’
- General Motors Corporation, 2008
- ‘Owner’s Manual BMW 745i/745Li/760Li’
- Bayerische Motoren Werke, 2003
- ‘2009 GMC Acadia Owner Manual’
What You’ll Need to Get Started
- A Phillips screwdriver, a replacement bulb, and a replacement fuse are all required.
Biography of the Author Daniel Valladares began working as a medical writer in 2008, and he has been writing professionally ever since. A former pharmaceutical company employee, he has worked as an auto mechanic at Kim’s Speedy Auto Service since 2007. He also has experience writing patient education pamphlets for a variety of pharmaceutical businesses. Valladares graduated from Rice University with a Bachelor of Arts in English and is presently pursuing a certification as a personal trainer.
It appears that everytime someone inquires about how to turn off DRLs, the conversation quickly devolves into a debate about whether or not DRLs are a good idea. A barrage of sniping back and forth degrades the atmosphere, and more often than not, the original poster never receives a suitable response to his or her query. The truth is that DRLs are neither the safety hazard that some anti-DRL activists claim they are, nor the wonderful safety technology that some pro-DRL activists claim they are.
While most arguments against DRLs are essentially arguments against the difficulties produced by specific implementations of DRLs, they are not truly arguments against the notion of DRLs as such.
They are not an effective method of accomplishing the task: Low-beam DRLs shorten the life of the bulb.
This type of bulb is very warranty-friendly and lends itself well to use as daytime running lights due to their long life, but their output is low and the beam focus (and beam reach) they produce is relatively short when compared to standard bulbs, due to the filament modifications made in order to get an extra long life out of the bulbs.
- When the long-life version of the same sort of headlamp bulb is used, it generates 1460 lumens over a lifespan of 1200 hours and has a filament coil focus that allows the low beam to reach roughly 230 feet.
- Most likely, considering the fact that a great many crashes might have been averted with only a half-second or five feet of extra time or space.
- Furthermore, it is quite difficult to design a lamp that has both a good low beam and a decent DRL from an optical standpoint.
- However, because a large portion of the targeted ‘audience’ for a DRL is concentrated in precisely those spots, a well-focused low beam is worthless as a DRL.
- Typical examples are recent Volkswagens and Mercedes-Benzes, as well as various other vehicles equipped with halogen projector low beams; these low beam DRLs are virtually invisible until the general outside light level drops to the point when full headlights and taillights are required.
- They result in a symmetrical beam pattern, although they are virtually hard to apply properly: Although there is a good amount of light thrown to the sides when the intensity is high enough to do so, there is far too much light focused straight forward, which causes severe glare difficulties.
- This is a concern because the majority of the safety advantage from DRLs comes from avoiding angle collisions rather than head-on collisions.
As a result, the bulb glass darkens.
However, because most drivers only use their high beams for short periods of time, the reduction in their power as a result of glass blackening is a serious safety performance concern.
In DRL mode, the system’s power may range from 60 to 240 watts.
The exception permits them to conduct the type certification tests with the DRLs turned off, despite the fact that GM would not sell vehicles without DRLs in the United States and that all new vehicles manufactured after January 1, 1990 in Canada are obliged to have DRLs.
Then there’s the issue of how the laws are written in regards to the illumination of a vehicle’s parking, tail, and marker bulbs with daytime running lights.
This provides us with a difficult decision: what to do.
Our power requirements are now between 80 and 324 watts.
While driving during the day, having the taillights on considerably lessens the visual contrast between the brake lights being on and the brake lights being off.
Assuming that you want to use a headlamp-based DRL system but do not want to use the parkers, markers, or tails during the day, and you do not want to install an expensive and bothersome automated light control system, what do you do instead?
And this is before we even get into the operational issues that are caused by the use of headlamp DRLs.
In some cases, they have their parkers and markers turned on (in which case they have poor forward visibility and their high beam DRLs are emitting potentially hazardous amounts of glare), while in other cases, they don’t (in which case they’re likewise invisible from the sides and rear).
The majority of them are found in Europe and Scandinavia, where we don’t see them as frequently as we do in North America.
Prior to that, they were simply parking lighting).
Light distribution with a viewing angle is provided by dedicated DRLs and front turn signals.
They also tend to use bulbs that consume significantly less power (=fuel) and have a significantly longer life than traditional headlight bulbs.
You may purchase aftermarket modules that range in price from moderately affordable to prohibitively expensive to enable this type of DRL functioning on a car that was not initially equipped.
They aren’t as brilliant as they should be.
It’s sometimes as simple as pulling a fuse or relay, disconnecting a DRL module, or grounding a cable leading to the DRL module to resolve the issue at hand.
Using the ‘one click of the parking brake’ approach hasn’t worked in years – you can only travel about 5 feet before the chime begins beeping, and the computer automatically puts the DRLs back on.
The best course of action is to obtain a wiring diagram for your precise make, model, and year of vehicle and examine it to see how the DRLs are connected.
From there, it’s usually rather straightforward to figure out how to disable them (or at least it gives you a starting point from which to ask for more help).
Instrument Lights and Daytime Running Lights Not Working
I am having a problem with my instrument lights and DRLs not working in my 1986 Chevy K20 Scottsdale. The original headlight switch connector is gone (previous owner thought he was an electrician) but the headlights work. And when I put the wires that don’t work on the headlight post the DRLs work but the instrument lights still don’t. I checked the fuse it’s OK. But the fuse terminals are dead.Hopefully you guys can help me, AaronLogged1986 Chevrolet K20 Scottsdale, 6.2 Diesel
Day Time Running lights?These trucks didn’t have those.
- Different names I guess.
- If I switch wires around on the headlight switch I can get the orange lights to work but that sacrifices the headlights.
- There is 2 positions on a factory headlamp switch.1 click out is parking, all the way is all lights.Do the headlights work in both locations, or does it have nothing like the factory switch in it?For all power both park and headlights will burn.Logged
It has a factory style switch.
- One click out does nothing.
All the way out just the headlights come on, no parking lights.Logged1986 Chevrolet K20 Scottsdale, 6.2 Diesel
If 1 click out does not turn on the parking lamps you have it wired incorrectly.That should turn on the parking lights (all lights except the headlights)Logged
A dead tail lamp fuse supply socket indicates loss of power into the fuse box.Find the two-post junction block mounted to the firewall above the back of the engine.Give the red wires (fusible links) connected to the junction block a tug to see if any of them stretch or pull apart.Factory power routes directly from the firewall junction block, through a fusible link and bulkhead connector into the back of the fuse box.The running lamps and instrument lamps are on the same circuit.Use the1986 Wiring Manualfor reference.LoggedRich It’s difficult to know just how much you don’t know until you know it.
In other words.
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)
I have it wired up like the wiring diagram shows.Logged1986 Chevrolet K20 Scottsdale, 6.2 Diesel
Have you checked the fusible links and verified power through the firewall bulkhead connector?LoggedRich It’s difficult to know just how much you don’t know until you know it.
if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!
I have the headlight switch wired like the diagram I have shows to.
In other words.
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)
I was referring to the instrument panel light fuseLogged1986 Chevrolet K20 Scottsdale, 6.2 Diesel
Regarding the instrument lamps, make sure the headlamp switch knob is rotated completely CCW, just short of turning on the dome lamp.For the tail lamps to function, but not the front running lamps, implies a faulty connection through the firewall bulkhead plug or open in the brown wire that leads to the forward lamps.LoggedRich It’s difficult to know just how much you don’t know until you know it.
In other words.
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)
I’ll have to go look at the firewall connector. The switch is rotated as you said when I test it. I’m pretty sure the brown wire is OK but I’ll check that as well.Logged1986 Chevrolet K20 Scottsdale, 6.2 Diesel