Freeze plug, core plug, expansion plug? (Correct answer)

• Welsh plugs are used to fill the casting core holes found in automotive engines. They are also commonly known as frost plugs, freeze plugs, core plugs or engine block expansion plugs. They are often corroded by coolant and are often very labour intensive to remove.

What is an expansion plug?

Concave expansion plugs are inexpensive, efficient, and are a permanent method of sealing manufactured holes in castings or other processes. These are good for use in limited space (depth) holes, but do require a counterbored hole to locate properly.

Do freeze plugs expand?

Freeze plugs were originally used to protect engines from cold-related damage. If the coolant inside an engine freezes, it may cause the block to crack. Water expands as it freezes, and the pressure created by this expansion can cause cracks to form. After a freeze plug has failed, however, it must be replaced.

What are four other names for a core plug?

Other common names for core plug are welch plug, freeze plug and expansion plug.

Can you drive without a freeze plug?

Yes, the engine will run but will have a coolant leak. A freeze plug is a thin metal cap pressed into an engine blocks coolant passage. It is designed to pop out should the engines coolant ever feeeze rather than cracking the block due to expanding ice. Over time, these freeze plugs can corrode.

What is the purpose of freeze plugs?

Core plugs, also called freeze plugs or Welch plugs, are used to fill the sand casting core holes found on water-cooled internal combustion engines.

Can freeze plugs leak?

Freeze plugs are usually aluminum or brass plugs pressed into holes in the water jacked of your engine block. However, freeze plugs can also start to leak over time simply due to the heating and cooling cycles of driving your car.

Can leaking freeze plug cause overheating?

If you neglect a leaking freeze plug for too long, your engine’s coolant could potentially leak to a level where it can no longer effectively cool your engine, and cause it to overheat, risking extensive damage.

Are freeze plugs hard to replace?

Replacing freeze plugs is not hard, but getting to them can be really tough with the engine in the vehicle. If you can’t get the plug replaced in the car, then you may need to visit your local NAPA AutoCare Center for assistance.

How much is a freeze plug replacement?

Labor to repair a freeze plug that’s leaking could be anywhere from $100–$1,000. Prices vary depending on which one it is that needs replacement and what the labor rates are in your area. Some are easy to get to, while others require transmission removal, starter removal or motor mount removal.

Why do core plugs leak?

Why do core plugs leak? Plugs can often be a source of leaks due to corrosion caused by cooling system water. Although modern antifreeze chemicals do not evaporate and may be considered ‘permanent’, anti-corrosion additives gradually deplete and must be replenished.

What does a Welch plug do in a carburetor?

Welch plugs are designed to seal those passages to prevent leaks that would allow too much air into a carburetor at one time and disrupt the flow of fuel. Sometimes a leak in a plug’s seal causes an engine to lose power or run rough.

Freeze plug, core plug, expansion plug

A freeze plug or an expansion plug is frequently referred to by DIYers, who believe that they are meant to pop out and protect the engine if the coolant or water freezes. However, this is not true. That is a fallacy. That is not the reason why they have been placed in your engine. Although they may or may not pop out if your coolant freezes, the chances of your engine being damaged BEFORE the
plug pulls out are quite high.

What does a core plug do if it doesn’t act as a freeze plug safety device

Core plugs were never intended to be used as a freeze prevention device in the first place. Their sole function is to provide space for the insertion and removal of sand during the engine casting process. The engine block is formed by injecting molten metal into a sand casting process. During the casting process, sand is used to fill the spaces surrounding the cylinders where coolant will flow. It is necessary to remove the sand once the casting has been completed, and it is removed from the holes in the block and cylinder head.

That’s all there is to it!

What causes freeze plug or core plug failure?

Corrosion. Without changing your coolant on a regular basis, the core plug will corrode from the inside out, resulting in a leaking core plug.

Replace a leaking freeze plug/core plug

Replacing a leaky freeze plug/core plug is a rather simple procedure, provided that you have appropriate access to get the necessary equipment in place. Unfortunately, this isn’t always the case in practice. In many situations, labor costs to remove accessory components in order to get access to the plug account for a significant amount of the total cost of repair. Only a few dollars are required to purchase a replacement plug. Rick Muscoplat has a new year’s resolution. Rick Muscoplat posted a blog entry on

Core plug – Wikipedia

Because of incorrect engine coolant maintenance, the core plug has been rusted, resulting in leakage. Core plugs, also known as freeze plugs or ice plugs, are a type of electrical connector. Water-cooled internal combustion engines include sand casting core holes, which are filled with Welch plugs to prevent the engine from overheating.

Purpose

When the engine block or cylinder head (s) is cast, sand cores are utilized to produce the interior chambers of the block or head. The coolant channels are generally found in these spaces. In order to support internal sand forms and to simplify the removal of the sand once the casting has been allowed to cool, holes are cut into the casting’s surface. After the sand has been removed, there is no longer any use for these holes. A core plug is a cover that is installed at the end of these passageways to prevent water or coolant from seeping out of the engine during operation.

Design

While most core plugs are tiny metal cups that are press-fitted into the casting holes, other core plugs are made of rubber or other materials. Threadedpipe plugs with a large diameter cast metal core are used in some high-performance engines with big diameter core plugs. As a result of corrosion produced by cooling system water, core plugs are frequently identified as a source of leakage. In spite of the fact that current antifreezechemicals do not evaporate and may thus be called ‘permanent,’ anti-corrosion additives progressively diminish and must be replaced.

It was because of the expansion of water as it froze that the core plug would burst out of the engine, which is how the phrase ‘freeze plug’ came about.

Welch plug

While most core plugs are tiny metal cups that are press-fitted into the casting holes, some core plugs are made of rubber or other materials as well. Occasionally, huge diameter cast metal threadedpipe plugs are used as core plugs in high-performance engines. As a result of corrosion produced by cooling system water, core plugs are frequently identified as a source of leaks. Despite the fact that current antifreezechemicals do not evaporate and may therefore be called ‘permanent,’ anti-corrosion additives progressively diminish and must be resupplied.

It was because of the expansion of water as it froze that the core plug would burst out of the engine, which gave rise to the phrase ‘freeze plug.’

References

The MGA With An AttitudeA CORE PLUG IS NOT A FREEZE PLUG – CO-105CO-105discusses the purpose of a core plug, how it works, and why it is not a freeze plug.The correspondent’s name has been omitted to protect the innocent.’While running the engine, the freeze out plug in the rear of the engine dislodged and all the antifreeze came out.’First of all, this little part is a ‘core plug’ not a ‘freeze plug’.Anyone who thinks it might ever function as a freeze plug may one day be sadly disappointed, about the same time they are confronted with a large expense for replacing a broken engine block.Under a certain (and rather unlikely) set of circumstances, the core plug might be dislodged by freezing coolant without otherwise damaging the engine.If the coolant in the engine does not have enough antifreeze for the cold temperature encountered, it can of course freeze.In the process of freezing, the water and ice expand a little.As heat is removed from the fluid part of the fluid freezes while some of it remains liquid at the same temperature.As more heat is removed more of the liquid turns solid, until it may all eventually be frozen.During the time when it is partly frozen and still partly liquid it can flow like a slushy snow cone, effectively acting like hydraulic fluid.And if a core plug was not particularly tight in the engine block, the plug might pop out and relieve the pressure, thereby preventing the engine block from bursting.Do you feel lucky?If the ambient temperature persists long enough below the freezing point of the fluid, then the fluid will eventually freeze completely solid.As the coolant approaches being completely solid it will not flow very well, and the continued expansion may burst the engine block even after a core plug may have blown out.The only thing to prevent that from happening is if the ambient temperature rises above the freezing temperature of the fluid before it is all frozen solid.I don’t feel that lucky.The core plugs may also hold firmly in place and never blow out while the expansion of the freezing fluid breaks the engine block.So this is not the original purpose of the core plug.These plugs are simply used to close off a hole in the casting which was formed by a supporting arm of the sand ‘core’ which was used to form the hollow cavities inside the engine block while molten iron was being poured into the sand mold.Thus the proper term ‘core plug’.’The mechanic was very surprised this happened, because after he puts in a freeze out plug he hits it with a ball peen hammer while it’s in place to supposedly stretch it to stay in better.’This takes a little finesse, and some understanding of how the plug works.The core plug is slightly domed, like a small section of a sphere.If you were to smash it completely flat it would expand quite a lot on the diameter.In practice it is not necessary to go completely flat, but it does need more than a little ball peen dimple in the center.I use a wrench socket about 3/4′ OD on the end of a 1/2′ drive extension and give it a few reasonable (not so hard as to break the engine block) raps with a 2 pound hammer.This makes a flat spot in the middle of the plug and decreases the height of the dome by about half.That expands the OD of the plug enough to be a very tight jam fit in the block, and in most cases it will not leak, even using no sealant.I have never had one blow out or leak (knock on wood).Just as a matter of slight superstition, in recent years I have taken to putting a little blue stuff (silicone gasket sealer) in the counterbore before installing the plug, just in case some prior corrosion may have left a pit mark in the block casting.Then I wipe off any sealant after installation, so you don’t see any sealant on the outside when it’s finished.Then paint over the whole thing.A core plug is very effective at closing a hole when properly installed.In fact it may be so effective that it will not serve as ‘freeze plug’, and freezing of the coolant may break the engine block without ever blowing out a core plug.If a core plug pops out from normal water pressure in the engine, the mechanic who installed it may be surprised, and deserves to be embarrassed, but doesn’t have a leg to stand on when it comes to making excuses.It’s not that hard to do it right, as there is a large tolerance range for the amount of compression of the dome needed for a reliable installation.It’s just that a small ding in the center with a ball hammer doesn’t do much more than make a visible dimple.In fact, If you use a small diameter punch and continue to tap on it, the core plug will eventually push over center and begin to contract again, which is a very easy way to shrink and remove the plug.For as long as the link may last, there is a nice video showing how to install and remove a core plug.Just ignore the fact that the presenter is calling it a freeze plug or frost plug or expansion plug, as it is none of the above.Please always refer to this as a core plug, or by its trade name Welsh Plug.Also notice that he is using a wide flat face punch, not a ball peen hammer, but he does use a small diameter punch to remove the plug.To be effective, a spot about 1/3 to 1/2 of the diameter of the plug (near the center of the plug) needs to be depressed about 1/2 of the height of the crown.This will expand the plug considerably in diameter, enough to be a very tight fit in the machined hole in the casting.If you were to start in the center with a small diameter punch, smack it mildly with a heavy hammer, then use a few progressively larger diameter punches in succession, you could effectively force the plug to a nearly flat condition.That would force the perimeter of the plug very hard outward against the casting, but I have never known this to break the casting.This is because the casting is relatively thick and strong, and the plug is thin enough that the edge of the plug can be deformed inward as necessary to accommodate any amount of excess expansion of the diameter.This is why virtually anyone can successfully install a core plug properly.If you’re not sure about it being tight enough, just give it another gentle whack or two with the large diameter punch and a heavy hammer.It isn’t rocket science.As a demonstration I have here a new core plug measuring 1.620-inch diameter.After bumping the center down a bit more than half of the crown height the OD measures 1.660-inch diameter.This shows how much these things can expand when being flattened.The hole to be plugged is nominally l.625-inch diameter, so the plug has plenty of excess capacity for expansion when properly installed.For more detailed installation information from the inventor and major manufacturer of the Welch plug, see here:

What is a Core or Freeze Plug?

They can be cupped or dish-shaped (also known as welch), and they can look like anything from a cap on a bottle of water to the lid of a jam jar. These plugs are similar to cup type plugs, but they do not have side walls or depth to them. Instead, they are more concave than cup type plugs in order to allow the plug to spread and close the hole with a blow to the center. In water-cooled internal combustion engines, the plugs are utilized to fill the sand casting core holes that are located in the engine.

Turbochargers, brake calipers, oil wells, central heating boilers, customised projects, and aesthetics are just a few examples.

What are engine sand cores?

When the engine block or cylinder head(s) is cast, sandcores are utilized to produce the interior cavities of the engine. The coolant channels are generally found in these spaces. Holes are drilled into the casting to support the interior sand forms and to make it easier to remove the sand when the casting has been allowed to cool completely.

Is there more than one type of core plug?

Because of corrosion induced by cooling system water, plugs can frequently become a source of leaks. Despite the fact that current antifreeze chemicals do not evaporate and may thus be called ‘permanent,’ anticorrosion additives progressively diminish and must be refilled. Failure to perform this routine maintenance increases the corrosion of engine components, and the thin dish type (Welch) metal plugs are frequently the first components to begin leaking after failure to do this maintenance.

What is a freeze or frost plug?

Freeze or frost plug is slang for the press-in plugs, which are properly referred to as ‘core plugs’ in the right terminology. Many people believe that the purpose of these plugs is to be pushed out and prevent the block from splitting if the engine has water in it and then freezes. This is incorrect. This is nothing more than a rumor spread by word of mouth. They are used to fill up the holes that were created during the casting process, allowing the foundry to remove the core sand that had been trapped in the coolant passageways during the casting process.

When these plugs were designed, the manufacturer never intended to prevent the block from splitting in the event of a freeze.

What is a welch plug?

Known incorrectly as a Welsh plug, the Welch plug is a narrow, domed disc or dish made of a metallic alloy that is placed, convex side out, into a casting hole and against an internal shoulder before being cooled. An alternative is to use a non-ferrous metal such as brass, which provides better corrosion protection. When the dome is pounded with a hammer, it collapses somewhat, spreading laterally to close the gap.

What is a rubber expansion plug?

An extension plug is frequently confused with a core plug, which is a common misunderstanding. As illustrated in the figure above, there are two metal plates that are connected by a piece of pliable material such as rubber, nylon, or other similar materials. When the nut on the top is tightened, the two plates come together, compressing the material and causing it to spread against the side wall of the hole. A threaded bolt runs through the center and is joined to the bottom plate. When compared to the cup and dish plugs, this is a very versatileplug, with an interference fit that can be significantly bigger.

What Are Freeze Plugs in Automotive Engines?

Freeze plugs, also known as core plugs, are critical in the protection of car engines from damage caused by very cold temperatures. Unfortunately, many drivers fail to check their vehicle’s freeze plugs on a regular basis or at all. However, despite the fact that freeze plugs can endure for hundreds of thousands of kilometres, they are not without their share of failures. It’s also possible that a failure of your engine’s freeze plugs can result in catastrophic damage that is both expensive and difficult to fix.

What Are Freeze Plugs?

In an engine, freeze plugs are small, cylindrical-shaped plugs that are used to fill the passageways left behind by the sand cores, which are formed by rotating the engine. During the manufacturing process, passageways are built in engines to allow for the evacuation of casting sand from the engine. Freeze plugs are used by automakers to fill these passageways and, as a result, prevent coolant leaks from occurring. In the past, ordinary water was used to cool combustion engines to keep them running smoothly.

It was known that when the water coolant in a vehicle’s engine froze, the freeze plugs within would pop out.

They employ a mixture of water and antifreeze to keep the engine cool.

How Freeze Plugs Fail

Freeze plugs are most often known to fail due to freezing. This isn’t always a negative development, however. Freeze plugs were initially designed to safeguard engines from damage caused by extreme cold. If the coolant in an engine freezes, it has the potential to cause the block to fracture. When water freezes, it expands, and the pressure caused by this expansion can cause fractures to form in the concrete. Ice plugs prevent this from happening by enabling frozen water to spread out of the channels of the plugs and into the surrounding environment.

1. Freeze plugs fail due to their tendency to pop out.
2. As a result, coolant will seep out of your engine through the passageway created by the freeze plug.
3. Simply filling the radiator with water will not suffice.
4. It’s possible that your engine’s freeze plugs will break if you simply use water or if you don’t use enough antifreeze in your vehicle.

Consider having your vehicle’s cooling system cleansed at least once every two to three years, in addition to making sure you’re using the appropriate coolant. Frost plugs are less prone to fail when you keep your vehicle’s cooling system in good working order on a regular basis.

Engine Expansion Plugs – 1.500 in. Outside Diameter (in.) – Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

The following 2025 records are displayed on each page: Results 1 – 20. Sorting by Default Set of 10 Freeze Plugs, Brass Cup Expansion Plug, 1.50 in. Diameter, 0.420 in. Height, Brass, 1.50 in. Diameter, 0.420 in. Height, Brass RNB-565-028 is the part number for this item (1) The estimated ship date for the United States is January 10, 2022. International shipment is expected to arrive on November 11, 2022. if the order is placed today The estimated ship date for the United States is January 10, 2022.

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Brass Freeze Plugs, one per package MEL-MPC-133B is the part number for this item (4) Estimated for the United States Shipment date: January 19, 2022 International shipment is expected to arrive today.

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DRT-32820000B Engine Expansion Plug, Brass, Each (DRT-32820000B). No longer in consideration. Shipping to the United States is expected to begin on or around March 25th, 2022. International shipment is scheduled to arrive on March 28, 2022, at the latest. Brass Freeze Plugs, one per package MEL-MPC-85B is the part number for this item. It has not yet been reviewed. Estimated for the United States Shipment date: April 4, 2022 International shipment is expected to arrive today. Estimated delivery date in the United States: 4/4/2022 International shipment is expected to arrive today.

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The estimated ship date for the United States is Friday, January 7, 2022. If you buy today, you will get your international shipment on Wednesday, December 22nd, 2021. For Jeep 5.0L and 5.9L engines, 1.50 in. diameter steel camshaft expansion plug (CWA-J3144641) is available in pairs. It has not yet been reviewed. The estimated ship date for the United States is August 15, 2022. International shipment is expected to arrive today. The estimated ship date for the United States is August 15, 2022.

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How To Remove Freeze Plugs/Core Plugs At Home [3 Methods]

When you take a closer look at a combustion engine, you will notice core drillings. The cores serve as routes for coolant flow. Core or freeze plugs are the materials that are utilized to fill the sand casting cores. Friction fitting is used to insert the frozen plugs into the core bores, which are typically composed of metal (but can also be constructed of plastic). As a result of corrosion from the cooling water system, the core plugs will begin to leak over time. After that, they must be removed without causing damage to the engine block.

1. Using a screwdriver and hammer

Because of the extensive corrosion of the freeze plugs, this procedure will not work on them. To begin, seek for a hammer, channel lock pliers, and a screwdriver with a flat tip on one end of the handle. Insert the flat end of the screwdriver into the freezer plug and tap it with a hammer until the ‘eyelids’ of the plug are elevated and protruding from the freezer plug.

Make sure you don’t accidentally insert the freeze plug into the engine, or you’ll run into some difficulties. Hit the side of the freeze plug with your lock pliers, and then pull the freezing plug out with your lock pliers. Here’s a video showing you how to do it:

2. Freeze plug remover

The most straightforward method of removing the freezer plugs is to employ a plug remover. It is possible to drill a hole in the centre of the frozen plug with this instrument. After that, you may get rid of it. Although there are some alternative specialized products available that do not require you to drill a hole in the freezer plug, they are often more expensive. This tool kit from Amazon is one that we have found to be really useful in the past.

3. Block liquid seal

Because a very little hole exists in the freezer plugs, it is not required to change them on a regular basis. In order to seal the hole, you can apply a liquid block seal. However, this is only a temporary solution because it is possible that you could clog something else in the cooling system and will be required to replace all of the freezer plugs.

Expanding Replacement Freeze Plug

In some cases, the removal of the engine block may be required, while in others the freeze plug may be obstructed by the gearbox or other obstruction. Replacement frozen plugs with an expanding substance contain a specific material that expands when the plug is tightened. They are constructed of copper, and they are the most durable. For difficult-to-reach locations around the engine block, this is the ideal option.

What causes freeze plugs to leak?

Modern internal combustion engines are fitted with a cooling water system to keep them running cool. The efficiency of an engine is determined by the combustion ratio of the engine’s combustion chamber. A high compression ratio, on the other hand, is connected with elevated engine temperatures. By keeping the engine cold, the cooling water system also helps to keep piston rings and valves from being damaged. The radiator, the connection pumps, the transmission cooler, and the heater core are all included in this cooling system’s other components as well.

Due to the fact that frozen water expands, it places undue strain on the connecting pipes and the freezing plugs.

Freeze plugs are designed to come out of the cooling system of an automobile when the water in the system freezes.

Purpose of the freeze plugs

It is critical to understand why frozen plugs are there in the first place before proceeding with any freeze plug removal process. The engine block is built of sand casting, which is lightweight and durable. A mold for the engine is created and then pressed into an unique sort of sand. After that, molten iron is used to mold the engine block together into a whole unit, creating an engine block impression. Engine blocks become extremely sturdy and long-lasting as a result of this technique. On the engine block, you will observe a number of cylinders.

The difficulty in employing freeze plugs is that they are constructed of a very thin metal, galvanized steel, which makes them difficult to work with.

Providing you have an antifreeze solution in the engine block, you shouldn’t have any issues with the freeze plugs extending.

Some homeowners choose to use brass freeze plugs instead of antifreeze to keep their pipes from freezing. Despite the fact that they are more costly, they have the benefit of being rust-proof.

How do you know that your freeze plugs need replacement?

The first indicator of a faulty freeze plug is when coolant begins to seep from the vehicle’s radiator. A leak in a freeze plug causes the cooling system to run more slowly. The majority of freeze plugs are located on the side of the engine block, while one or two freeze plugs may be buried between the transmission and the engine block in some instances. It is possible that a technician may be required to assist you with the latter, since you will need to remove the transmission in order to get to the components.

Engine Block Heaters

Engine block warmers are highly recommended if you reside in a region where the temperatures often drop below zero degrees Fahrenheit. The heater is used in place of the freeze plugs, which are the same diameter as the heater but are distinguished by the fact that they are fitted with a 110 volt cable attached to the end of the plugs rather than the plugs themselves. During extremely cold conditions, freeze plugs heat up and prevent the engine block from becoming encased in water, which would cause it to fail.

Final thoughts

Freeze plugs are distinguished by the presence of tiny depressions on the engine block. They are required in order to protect the engine block from being destroyed if the water contained within the engine block freezes and expands. When this occurs, the freeze plugs are ‘popped off.’ In the event that your vehicle is equipped with antifreeze or engine block heaters, you will not be concerned about leaking freeze plugs. rusting freeze plugs can cause leaks since they are sensitive to rusting It is difficult to remove freeze plugs since some of them are positioned deep within the engine block, between the gearbox and the crankshaft.

For the most part, the frozen plugs are removed with a flat screwdriver, scissors or pliers, and hammer as the most typical approach.

To get rid of them, use the pliers.

Freeze Plug Repair

Freeze Plug Repairbryane2019-03-06T19:54:08+00:00 2019-03-06T19:54:08+00:00 Every engine block has a line of circular depressions about 1.5 inches wide and 1/4 inch deep running along the side of the block. In reality, they are holes in the side of the engine that are sealed with a metal plug known as a ‘freeze plug’ or a ‘expansion plug.’ Freeze plugs are also referred to as frost plugs, engine block expansion plugs, core plugs, or Welch plugs, depending on the manufacturer. When you pump water through your car’s cooling system without adding antifreeze, the water might freeze.

• Freeze plugs are intended to pop out and prevent this from happening, however they may not always function.
• This is why it is critical to have antifreeze in your cooling system at all times; this will keep it from rusting.
• Having a sluggish cooling system leak that comes and goes may indicate that you are experiencing a pinhole freeze leak.
• Some are simple to access, while others will need the removal of different engine components or possibly the removal of the complete gearbox and/or engine in order to repair them.
• In the event that you see water or coolant leaking from the side of your engine or between the engine and gearbox, it is most likely due to a defective freeze plug.
• It is possible that a stop leak or block seal compound will be effective if the leak is gradual and modest.
• The freeze plug should be replaced since that is the proper solution.
• When it ‘pops through,’ it is wrenched back out of the hole with a set of pliers or a screwdriver, which is held in one hand.
• Otherwise, water may leak around the circle of the new plug.
• Another reason for this is to prevent leaks from the new plug from forming.
• Coolant leakage is prevented by the employment of freeze plugs, which are an integral element of your engine.

To get your car evaluated if you feel that you may have a defective freeze plug in your engine, bring it in to your local Certified Auto Repair Specialist of Pasadena now. a link to the page’s load

Freeze Plugs : Freeze Plug : Engine Freeze Plugs : Freeze Plug Sets

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Freeze Plugs

ExpansionFreeze Plugs are a type of expansion-freeze plug. Melling expansionfreeze plugs bulk packs are a cost-effective solution to deliver the plugs required to finish your engine rebuilds in large quantities. In order to meet the needs of engine builders who want specialized plugs in big quantities, Melling supplies individual engine plugs in boxes of 10 or 25. Each bulk pack provides the high-quality expansion/freeze plugs required for the work in the particular dimensions specified in the package.

• Kits for ExpansionFreeze Plug Installation Melling expansion / freeze plug kits are a convenient and cost-effective solution to supply the plugs required to finish your engine repair.
• Each kit comprises the high-quality expansion/freeze plugs required for the indicated application, as well as the pipe plugs required to complete the task in a single package.
• Spend no time hunting for the proper expansion/freeze plugs and pipe plugs.
• When you’re ready to put your engine together, choose an expansion / freeze plug kit from Melling to complete the installation.

Expansion (Freeze) Plugs

96-322C	5/16′ Hole Dia. | 0.322′ OD	$0.42
96-385C	3/8′ Hole Dia. | 0.385′ OD |.190’H	$0.44
96-0385CRT	3/8′ Reverse Taper Hole Dia. | 0.385′ OD |.240’H	$0.48
96-447C	7/16′ Hole Dia. | 0.447′ OD |.188’H	$0.20
96-461C	29/64′ Hole Dia. | 0.480′ OD |.280’H	$0.25
96-523C	1/2′ Hole Dia. | 0.523′ OD |.280’H	$0.19
96-572C	9/16′ Hole Dia. | 0.572′ OD |.250’H	$0.27
96-603C	19/32′ Hole Dia. | 0.603′ OD |.320’H	$0.23
96-635C	5/8′ Hole Dia. | 0.635′ OD |.250’H	$0.31
96-641C	41/64′ Hole Dia. | 0.640′ OD	$0.42
96-666C	43/64′ Hole Dia. | 0.666′ OD |.270’H	$0.44
96-760C	3/4′ Hole Dia. | 0.760′ OD |.240’H	$0.30
96-885C	7/8′ Hole Dia. | 0.885′ OD |.250’H	$0.31
96-916C	29/32′ Hole Dia. | 0.916′ OD |.330’H	$0.52
96-947C	15/16′ Hole Dia. | 0.947′ OD |.420’H	$0.44
96-1010C	1′ Hole Dia. | 1.010′ OD |.400’H	$0.40
96-1062C	1-1/16′ Hole Dia. | 1.062′ OD |.370’H	$0.59
96-1135C	1-1/8′ Hole Dia. | 1.135′ OD |.430’H	$0.40
96-1192C	1-3/16′ Hole Dia. | 1.192′ OD |.360’H	$0.64
96-1226C	1-7/32′ Hole Dia. | 1.226′ OD |.460’H	$0.66
96-1260C	1-1/4′ Hole Dia. | 1.260′ OD |.440’H	$0.44
96-1385C	1-3/8′ Hole Dia. | 1.385′ OD |.440’H	$0.54
96-1510C	1-1/2′ Hole Dia. | 1.510′ OD |.520’H	$0.42
96-1572C	1-9/16′ Hole Dia. | 1.572′ OD |.410’H	$0.69
96-1635C	1-5/8′ Hole Dia. | 1.635′ OD |.500’H	$0.37
96-1648C	1-5/8-0′ Hole Dia. | 1.648′ OD |.495’H	$0.71
96-1760C	1-3/4′ Hole Dia. | 1.760′ OD |.560’H	$0.62
96-1762C	1-49/64′ Hole Dia. | 1.762′ OD |.560’H	$0.88
96-1885C	1-7/8′ Hole Dia. | 1.885′ OD |.510’H	$0.95
96-1888CRT	1-7/8′ Reverse Taper Hole Dia. | 1.885′ OD	$2.37
96-1943C	1-15/16′ Hole Dia. | 1.943′ OD |.525’H	$0.81
96-1953C	1-61/64′ Hole Dia. | 1.953′ OD |.525’H	$0.79
96-2005C	2′ Hole Dia. | 2.005′ OD |.500’H	$0.76
96-2017C	2-1/64′ Hole Dia. | 2.017′ OD |.500’H	$0.98
96-2070C	2-1/16′ Hole Dia. | 2.070′ OD |.520’H	$1.00
96-2098C	2-3/32′ Hole Dia. | 2.098′ OD |.610’H	$0.93
96-2150C	2-1/8′ Hole Dia. | 2.150′ OD |.480’H	$1.05
96-2194CRT	2-3/16′ Reverse Taper Hole Dia. | 2.194′ OD |.319’H	$0.86
96-2260C	2-1/4′ Hole Dia. | 2.260′ OD |.510’H	$1.07
96-2390CRT	2-25/64′ Reverse Taper Hole Dia. | 2.390′ OD	$2.97
96-2497CRT	2-1/2′ Reverse Taper Hole Dia. | 2.497′ OD	$1.28
96-2635C	2-5/8′ Hole Dia. | 2.635′ OD |.360’H	$11.80
96-2697C	2-11/16′ Hole Dia. | 2.697′ OD	$10.28

‘freeze plug’ or ‘core plug’ replacement in-vehicle

8:50 a.m. on January 5, 2011, SuperDork Hello, everyone. It’s broken, and I’m responsible for repairing it. When I traded in an old blue pickup for a large green van, I was thought to be a complete stupid (by myself) (also old). Rather than the trade, it was failing to check to see if the large green vehicle (Oscar) had antifreeze in the cooling system prior to November that caused the stupid to become a moron. This is a small block Chevy (305, TBI) in a 1992 OscarVan, and it doesn’t matter what engine is in it.

A frozen ‘freeze plug’ has come out of the block, but there is no catastrophic metal breach on the horizon (who knows).

That implies that even if I manage to get the engine leaned over enough to have access to the hole where the plug used to be, I won’t have enough straight-line whacking area to insert another plug.

This would address the problem, according to the first thought that occurs to the mind.

They remove the extension plug from the block and install a heater in its place, similar to what I’ve detailed above.

So.

This board is fantastic.

So.

Thanks!

First and foremost, I laughed out loud.

I’d probably get rid of the vehicle before doing any of that work;).

Sorry, that was a horrible idea.

I wanted to hear it brought up by someone else and see if it would be effective in the real world.

Clem Slefain, as written by ClemSparks: That’s one of the first things that sprang to mind.

Has anybody really put this into a vehicle engine?

Usually, the casting on the block cuts through the poor-quality rubber that causes the leaks.

If you tighten it too tightly, it will split, and if you loosen it too much, it will fall out.

That was the sole choice available on the back of a Jeep I-6 engine head, where you had around 1.5 inches of clearance ‘between the two headfirewalls KJClemSparks wrote:Slefain, thank you for your time.

I wanted to hear it brought up by someone else and see if it would be effective in the real world.

Clem I’ve had a lot of success with them.

We also placed one of those in the 351 in the lemons’ car for good measure.

Emery is used to clean up the hole.

Take a 3/4-inch threaded rod that is 1/4-inch shorter than the distance between the plug and the frame, and attach a nut to either end of the rod.

This should force the plug into the tapered hole, allowing it to seat properly.

Dan914Driver wrote:Use an emery board to clean up the hole.

Take a 3/4-inch threaded rod that is 1/4-inch shorter than the distance between the plug and the frame, and attach a nut to either end of the rod.

This should force the plug into the tapered hole, allowing it to seat properly.

I might give it a go initially.

Alternatively, you might remove the engine and rebuild it.

I know I shouldn’t be here, yet I am.

There will be no straight-line whacking room for me.

I’m not sure how much space you have available, but would one of the Craftsman power hammer jobbies suffice?

I’m not acquainted with the term ‘powerwhammer,’ which you use to describe your tool.

‘Cause that was so cool!

Clem I’m in the midst of plugging in 2 more ‘One of the rubber plugs was used to fill up holes in multiple engine blocks where a gear driven water pump had lived (before it was replaced with an electronic water pump).

So far, everything is working.

For the record, my only genuine experience with a rubber plug was that it got me through the winter in an ancient Volvo with little drama – I never considered it anything more than a temporary solution.

Unfortunately, I am hopeless at mathematics.

Simply jam the old one into the block and tighten the rubber stopper to force the pee out.?

One of the oldest in my boat has been in there for eight years and has not leaked a drop.

Unfortunately, they are eaten by the salt water.

Pulling the engine isn’t going to happen until the engine blows up, thus the plugs are set in place for good.

I used a brass one for the one at the back of the block in our Jeep when I was working on it.

Remove the transmission and carefully drop the engine to the ground on its mounts, and you will be able to reach the one in the head, although it will be a squeeze. Porcelain expandable plug P/N 568-010 is available from Dorman for use in that purpose.