The cause of the noise is a worn flexible rubber coupler. Hyundai has extended the warranty period for this problem to 10-years or 100,000 miles. The worn coupling is NOT a safety issue and will not cause steering failure.
- Causes of the clicking noise in 2011 Hyundai when turning · Drifting of the wheel when turning When running the car and turning the wheel, you must follow a straight path in the road for proper movement. However, you can turn the car and hear the clicking noises, which shows there are faults within.
Why is there a clicking noise when I turn?
Grinding or Clicking Noise when Turning Steering Wheel – Any sound such as a grinding, clicking, or rumbling sound when turning is often caused by a failing constant velocity or CV joint. When the CV joints become worn, they become loose and produce a clicking sound when turning.
Why does my front end click when I turn?
Car wheels make popping or clicking noises due to faulty CV joints, worn struts or drive belts, loose hubcaps, cupped tires, or loose suspension.
Why does my Hyundai Elantra steering wheel clicking?
There is an issue that owners and potential owners need to be aware of with the steering coupler bushing. Over time the OEM one tends to degrade and eventually needs to be replaced. The symptoms of this issue is an odd clicking or clunking when turning the steering wheel and it jolting just a bit with the click.
Why is my wheel clicking?
Damaged CV joint: The most common cause of a clicking or popping sound from the wheels is a broken CV joint. When a CV joint becomes damaged, the axle loses its flexibility, and will make a constant clicking noise when the wheels are turned. Bad struts: Your struts are an important part of your suspension system.
Why does my car make clicking noises when I turn it off?
Exhaust system is cooling down – This is the most common noise you hear when you shut the engine off. Metals expand when heated and contract when cooled down.
Why does my car click when I turn the key?
If your car produces a loud clicking noise when the key is turned, this is likely due to a lack of electrical current. The keys will move freely, but the starter will not crank due to a lack of power from your car’s battery/charging system.
Is it bad to drive with a bad CV joint?
A severely worn out CV joint can even disintegrate while you’re driving and make the car undrivable. You may lose control of the vehicle entirely. It is not safe to drive with a damaged CV joint. Look for some symptoms of a failing CV joint to have it repaired before it becomes unsafe to operate the vehicle.
How long can you drive with a bad CV joint?
It could take weeks, months, or years. But the average lifespan of a bad CV axle is around five to six months. Knowing this does not merely mean to stretch the deadline a little bit. You might be thinking that you can save more money by postponing the checkup for your ATV/UTV.
What is a steering coupler?
The Steering Coupler, which includes a cylindrical rubber bushing, ensures the transfer of movement from the steering wheel to the steering rack. The steering coupler has an inner sleeve which is attached to one of the input and output shafts of the steering system, while the outer sleeve is linked to the other shaft.
Hyundai clicking sound when turning
Hyundai has published a service bulletin17-ST-002 to address the issue of a clicking sound heard when turning a Hyundai automobile. Specifically, the service bulletin relates to the cars mentioned below that are equipped with motor driven power steering (MDPS). The noise is caused by a flexible rubber coupler that has been worn. Hyundai has extended the warranty duration for this issue to ten years or 100,000 miles in order to address the issue. The worn coupler is not a safety hazard, and it will not cause steering failure unless it is replaced.
Hyundai Motor has amended the warranty for the rubber coupling for Elantra Sedans from 2007 to 2015, Elantra Touring models from 2009 to 2012, Sonata Sedans from 2011 to 2014, and Hybrid Sonata Sedans from 2011 to 2015.
Hyundai vehicles affected by service bulletin17-ST-002
Elantra from 2007 until 2010. (HD) Elantra Touring models from 2009 to 2012. (FD) Elantra models from 2011 to 2015. (MD) From August 13, 2010 through February 19, 2014, there was no rest. Elantra models from 2011 to 2015. (UD) From November 3, 2010 until May 19, 2014, there was no rest. Sonata (YF/YFa) from 2011 to 2014. Sonata Hybrid from 2011 until 2015. (YF HEV) Taking your car to your local Hyundai dealer for a free repair if it is still under warranty is the best option. If you’ve reached the end of your warranty term and wish to do the repair yourself, you may get the replacement part (Part56315-2K000-FFF) from your local dealer or online.
Many libraries do provide free Internet connection, but only within the confines of the library.
The year is 2019.
Rick Muscoplat posted a blog entry on
Is Your Car Making a Funny Noise?
The cause of an unusual or weird sound coming from your automobile might be several things, but one of them isn’t necessarily amusing. While all cars create some sort of noise, even electric-powered vehicles generate a tiny hum, as a responsible driver, one must continuously be on the ‘lookout’ for unusual noises and be aware of their surroundings. If you hear any unusual sounds when your car is in regular operation, you should have it examined by a skilled technician as soon as possible. Since no one knows your vehicle better than you, you should get it checked as soon as possible.
Occasionally, they arrive early and we are able to resolve the issue with simply a little repair on the spot.
Clicking or Tapping
If you hear these kinds of noises coming from the front of your car, it might be a warning sign. A click or tap emanating from the engine’s hood might signify a variety of different things. On the one hand, it might be that the fuel injectors are operating correctly, and on the other hand, it could be that a lifter, rocker arm, valve spring, or valve lash adjuster has broken.
This scenario is most common in automobiles that have a lot of kilometers on them. In addition to low oil level or oil pressure, this sort of noise can be produced by other factors. The worst-case scenario is presented below.
Don’t make the mistake of conflating tapping or clicking with banging. An engine knock is the most horrendous sound that a vehicle can produce. This typically indicates that the low oil level or low oil pressure situation has progressed beyond the stage of tapping or clicking and has progressed to the point where a new engine will be necessary. You deprive the crankshaft, connecting rods, and their related oil clearance bearings of oil if you fail to do routine maintenance on your vehicle and allow the engine oil level to go below a certain level.
People do this when their engine produces banging noises, and it works well. It can also occur when damaged bearings are attempting to seize and cause someone to lose a significant amount of money. In the case of a vehicle equipped with a timing belt, whining bearings (originating from the idler or tensioner pulleys) can be extremely detrimental to your financial well being (particularly if yours is an interference engine). If the idler or tensioner is whining, it is possible that it can collapse and snap the timing belt, converting your engine into a high-priced boat anchor and causing significant damage.
If your car is fitted with a supercharger or turbocharger, it is possible that the whining noise is originating from this component as well.
A squealing sound might be heard coming from any part of the vehicle. When brake pad indications make contact with the rotor surface, as well as when brake pad surfaces are pitted or crystalized, a squealing sound is heard. If your brakes screech when you apply the brakes, the problem is most likely the latter. If the squeal occurs solely when the vehicle is rolling and the brake pedal is not depressed, the brake pads may be worn. Because four-wheel disc braking systems are becoming more common, these noises may be heard coming from either the front or the back of the car, depending on the situation.
This form of noise is one of the most difficult to detect and diagnose since it is so subtle. If the noise appears solely when the vehicle is being accelerated, it is possible that the differential bearing has failed (pinion, carrier, or axle). Whether the noise appears to be coming from the front but you are unable to determine what is causing it, try turning the steering wheel slightly to one side or the other (while driving) and seeing if the pitch changes as a result. If this is the case, you are most likely dealing with a defective front wheel bearing.
2013 Hyundai Sonata GLS – Popping Noise when turning
Hello, we have a 2013 Hyundai Sonata GLS for you to consider. Due to an unfortunate collision with a curb on the front passenger side, the automobile was totaled. We had to have the rim and tire changed, and we also had to have an alignment performed. The wheel and tire have been repaired, and the alignment is now in working order. There is a popping noise coming from the front right passenger compartment, which is causing us concern right now. Given that we aren’t automobile experts, we were hoping that someone on this forum might provide some light on what this may be.
Here is a brief video of the pop noise that lasts 10 seconds.
I’m not sure what it was, but my steering wheel started producing a banging noise as I swung it back and forth.
There is a fantastic YouTube video available on this topic.
It took me approximately an hour to complete. T 30 bit is the only particular tool that I’m aware of that’s required. The most difficult task was putting the steering column back in its original position. It was the solution to my problem. I hope this has been of assistance.
Steering Wheel Noise When Turning: Every Time I Turn Left or Right.
Hi, In the motor powered power steering unit, the clicking sound you hear is most likely caused by a broken rubber connection (MDPS). A technical service bulletin (TSB) has been issued in connection with the clicking. If you look at picture 1, you’ll see what I’m referring about when I say coupling. The fact that it is difficult to replace may be seen in the picture. The MDPS must be dismantled and computer programming must be performed in order to get it back up and running correctly once the coupler has been replaced.
- The actual TSB may be found here.
- The steering wheel for the 2011 Hyundai Sonata L4-2.4L – When turning the steering wheel, there is a clicking sound.
- A CLICKING NOISE CAN BEHEARD WHEN TURNING THE STEERING WHEELGROUPCHassisNUMBER14-SS-001DATEJANUARY 2014MODEL(S)Sonata (YF) The subject of this project is the replacement of the YF SONATA MDPS coupling.
- This advisory details how to replace the flexible rubber connection in the MDPS (motor driven power steering) assembly, which can be heard when rotating the wheel.
- Remove the MDPS motor by loosening the three bolts (A) using a T25 socket or other equivalent tool, as shown in Pic 62.
- Image number 84.
Check to see that the coupler has been properly placed.
In reverse order of removal, reinstall the motor on to the MDPS assembly and then reinstall the MDPS assembly into the vehicle.
picture number 106.
Connect the VCI to the GDS with the help of a USB connection.
Model and EPS (Electric Power Steering) system must be selected before the ‘OK’ button may be pressed on the screen.
Choose ‘Option Treatment’ from the Vehicle S/W Management drop-down menu.
Select ‘ASP Calibration’ from the drop-down menu.
If you want to proceed with the ASP calibration, click ‘OK.’ Pic 1410 is a photograph taken in the year 1410.
Remove the key from the ignition and wait for 15 seconds.
pic 1612 is a photograph taken in the year 1612.
I hope this has been of assistance. Please let me know if you have any other questions. Take precautions, Joe Images (Click on the image to see it larger.) On Sunday, April 26th, 2020 at 6:48 p.m., a sponsored link will be posted.
Information regarding a common Elantra issue
My automobile has been in my possession since 2011, when I acquired it with just under 38,000 miles on the odometer. Overall, it’s a fantastic vehicle. When it came to purchasing it, I did a great deal of research and am pleased with how it has done thus far. It has already accumulated 103,000 kilometers on the odometer. There is a problem with the steering coupler bushing that owners and future owners should be aware of before purchasing. Over time, the original equipment manufacturer’s (OEM) one degrades and must be replaced.
- Approximately two months ago, a local mechanic replaced mine for a total of $330.
- The component itself may be purchased for less than $10 on Amazon.
- The symptoms of this problem include an unusual clicking or clunking sound while turning the steering wheel, as well as a little jolting sensation when the wheel is turned.
- I held off updating mine first because I was informed it was not a safety hazard.
- By the time I took my car in to be serviced (approximately 3 or 4 months after the original commencement of the clicking), the EPS failure light was on continuously and intermittently flashing when I twisted the ignition key in the ignition lock.
- Since repairing this part, the EPS light has not been activated once, and the vehicle is driving smoothly once again.
- When I looked it up on Google, I came up with a slew of results, none of which were very fresh.
- The problem has been narrowed down to the steering coupler as the source.
2012 Hyundai Sonata Clicks When Turning
I’m currently at the Hyundai shop in Puente Hills, where I’d previously taken my car to report the same issue, as well as to have an oil change and to take care of a recall problem. As a result, when I mentioned the clicking noise to the Service Advisor, he claimed he would investigate. Very well done. After all, it said that it was coupling. They changed it and everything was good, but I’m not sure when it happened, maybe last year 2017. Today, I bring my car in for another recall and part replacement, and I report the clicking noise to the Service Advisor who confirms my suspicion.
- So he said that was OK and he’d look into it.
- I inquire as to how you know this.
- As I’m looking at it, he asks, ‘Can you tell me what this is?’ After that, he has me sign something.
- It will only cost you $130 in total.
- He claims that it sounds like the axle is malfunctioning.
- I said that I was a single mother with no additional money to spend.
- If this is the case, you will simply be required to pay your deductible, which is either $50 or $100.
He assured me that everything would be OK and that we would figure something out for you.
So I go to their computer, which they make available for client use, and I go to this website, where I discover that I am not the only one who has this difficulty, and that the majority of the complaints are related to a coupler issue.
He said it was not a coupler, so I walked outside and double-checked.
He paused and inquired, ‘Okay, so what do you want me to do?’ he said.
Why aren’t you able to just swap out the coupler?
So, what did I say?
This morning I stepped outside and there was no noise.
and he responded with a no. I questioned, ‘Really?’ because I’m hearing something. He explained that it was the axle. He told her, ‘Don’t worry, I’ll figure things out with you, and then you can go enjoy your life.’ I will take good care of you. So we’ll have to wait and see what the diagnosis is.
Creaking/Popping noise while turning
Greetings to everyone. An unusual creaking/popping noise has emerged in the front end of my 2012 Elantra GLS (6-speed manual). Most of the time, it is only evident at moderate speeds when the steering wheel is cranked more than 1/4 of a turn or so (like when parking or turning at an intersection). While turning, appyling the brakes will exacerbate the noise. Straight-line braking and acceleration does not result in the production of noise. When the car is parked, turning the steering wheel does not generate any noise.
- I recently put the car on jack stands to see if I could find anything that created a noise that sounded close to it.
- After getting the front wheels up and shifting into first gear, the rear wheels were free to move about little.
- However, as the other wheel started to revolve, there was a cracking noise that sounded quite similar to the sounds I’m hearing while driving.
- Do you have any thoughts?
r/mechanics – Hyundai Sonata Clicking when Turning in Reverse
Hello, everyone. As stated in the headline, my 2011 Hyundai Sonata produces a clicking noise while I am reversing and rotating the steering wheel to the right, which is essentially just when I am backing out of parking spaces, or when I am turning the steering wheel to the left. The noise appears to be coming from the region around the front passenger wheel and can be heard both inside and outside the vehicle. The only way I can explain the noise is that it sounds like something has become stuck in a gear or something similar.
- When I accelerate, the sound accelerates as well.
- Apparently, the outer control arm, which costs around $170 to repair, is the source of our problems.
- That didn’t exactly instill trust in the audience.
- Finally, the Hyundai dealership determined that the entire axel was damaged and needed to be replaced, which would have cost around $800.
- They made their whole estimate based on the sound they heard in the parking lot, which they found to be accurate.
Bass In the hopes of finding out if any of you have dealt with this issue previously or if you have any suggestions on how to choose who to trust, I thought I’d post here.
Why Does My Car Make Noise When I Turn?
When your automobile becomes older and starts to show signs of wear and tear, you could notice some strange noises coming from it while driving around West Islip. When you spin your steering wheel, you may hear an unexpected sound. Depending on the sort of sound and the pace at which it occurs, this unique sound might indicate a wide range of various things to drivers.
The crew at The New Babylon Honda is attempting to address today’s question, ‘Why does my car create noise when I turn?’ in order to assist Bay Shore drivers in narrowing down the source of the issue. Continue reading to find out more, or stop by our West Babylon service location for a proper diagnosis!
Common Car Noises When Turning the Steering Wheel
While everything is operating properly, a car will not create any noise when the steering wheel is turned. You should be aware that anything is wrong if you start hearing clunking, popping, cracking, screaming, groaning, screeching, or whining sounds. While some of these issues may be resolved with a few easy steps, others are considerably more problematic and necessitate the scheduling of a service appointment for emergency repair.
Reasons Your Car Makes a Noise When You Turn the Wheel
While there are a multitude of reasons why your vehicle could make a noise as you turn the wheel, we’ll go through the most typical automobile noises and the reasons behind them:
- Clunking or popping sounds in the suspension system might indicate worn out or damaged suspension joints
- This is especially true when the vehicle is traveling at lower speeds. When traveling at low speeds, the power steering pump produces what is most typically characterized as a whining sound that appears to be coming from the engine. Joints between the wheels: If you hear a crunching sounds when turning at high speeds, the CV Joints are most likely to be the source of the problem. System of electric power steering: An audible screech or whine while turning at normal speeds might indicate a problem with the power steering system as a result of an internal problem. Some of these repairs are straightforward, such as topping off the power steering fluid, while others are more involved and need more time and effort. This complicated system is made up of hoses, belts, and other components that can break over time. Clunkiness when turning might be an indication that the tie rod is loose or broken. a failed sway bar link will not only cause a banging noise when turning, but it will also result in poor handling
- You will most likely hear a creaking sound that becomes louder as time goes on if the ball joints are the source of the problem. Bushing: This joint is a component of your suspension system that may require lubrication or replacement as time progresses on your vehicle. This problem is frequently accompanied by a creaking sound. A noise, along with a bouncy and loose feel when driving over bumps in Deer Park, indicates that your shocks and struts are malfunctioning
- If this is the case, you should get them checked out immediately.
Find the Cause of Your Car Noises at The New Babylon Honda
Even though we’ve offered some solutions to the query ‘Why does my car make sounds when I turn?’ it will need a specialist to discover the exact source of the noises. The New Babylon Honda offers the knowledge and experience to get the work done well, as well as service discounts to help you save money on everything from belt replacements to major repairs and maintenance. Please contact us if you have any questions about your car battery or oil change processes, or simply stop by our West Babylon repair location.
The Starter Clicks on My Hyundai but the Car Won’t Start
Image of a bio battery courtesy of dinostock via Fotolia.com There might be a problem with the battery or the starting on your Hyundai, which would cause the starter to make clicking noises. The best-case scenario is that the problem is with the battery, but even if the problem is with the starter, don’t give up hope. Even a novice can replace the starter in roughly 90 minutes if they have the proper tools. But first, let’s figure out what the problem is.
Raise the bonnet of the car and use a voltage meter to check the battery voltage while the automobile is not in use or running. The positive terminal is connected to the red probe, while the negative terminal is connected to the black probe. A completely charged battery should have a voltage between 12.5 and 12.8 volts. Anything less than this might indicate that your battery’s power is insufficient to start the vehicle. If the battery is not functioning properly, proceed to the next step. If it is satisfactory, go to step 3.
Disconnect the battery from the vehicle by disconnecting the negative terminal first and loosening the nut with a tool to complete the procedure. Remove the battery retention bar by turning it with a wrench to loosen the nut on the bar. Remove the old battery from the vehicle and replace it with the new one.
With the retaining brace, you can keep it in place. With the wrench, tighten the nut until it is snug. Reconnect the terminals, starting with the positive terminal and working your way down to the negative. With the wrench, tighten the terminal nuts until they are snug.
If your battery was in good condition, the problem is with your starter, which must be repaired or replaced. Disconnect the negative battery connector from the rest of the battery. Wheel chocks should be placed behind the rear tires.
Place a jack stand beneath the frame near the jacking point on the driver’s side of the vehicle and jack up the vehicle from the driver’s side using the jack. Raise the jack stand until it is parallel to the car’s frame.
Find the starter by crawling underneath the automobile. It’s located near the transmission and resembles a circular canister with electrical wires emanating from it; it’s located near the transmission. Being use of a pen and masking tape, label the electrical lines, making sure to note the precise placement of each one. By adjusting and unhooking the shift control cable from the transmission, you may complete the disconnect. Remove the speedometer cable by loosening it with a wrench and removing it.
Remove the bolts holding the electrical wires to the starter using a wrench to complete the disconnect. Remove the electrical harness from the starter and then, using a ratchet and socket, remove the mounting bolts from the starting. Remove the starter from the engine by pulling it away from the engine.
Install the new starter on the engine and tighten the mounting nuts with a socket and ratchet to ensure that it is secure. Reconnect the electrical cables, tightening the nuts with the wrench as you go, and then plug in the wiring harness to complete the installation.
Tighten the speedometer cable to the transmission using a wrench once it has been disconnected. Reattach the shift cable to the shift lever by connecting it back into the lever. Removing the jack stand from underneath the vehicle. Lower the vehicle back to the ground and reconnect the negative battery connection to the vehicle. After you have tightened the nut with a tool, you should start the automobile to check the installation. Tips
- When working beneath the automobile, make sure you use safety glasses to prevent foreign things from entering into your eyes.
What You’ll Need to Get Started
- Autojack, Jack stand, Wheel chocks, Voltage meter, Metric socket and wrench sets
- This technique should only be attempted after the battery has been disconnected in accordance with the instructions. If you do not follow these instructions, you might get a severe electrical shock.
Biography of the Author Since 1981, John Rose has been working as a professional writer. Auto repair, house maintenance, and other related issues are some of the themes on which he now contributes to numerous web publications. Rose attended Frostburg State University, where she majored in English.