Lubricate the bushings with an all-purpose silicone lubricant. Place the bushings back on the sway bar until they reach the stop on the sway bar. Turn the bushings so the split edge of the bushings face the front of the vehicle.
Should sway bar bushings be lubricated?
Many poly bushings are not supposed to be lubricated either, but poly is notorious for squeaking and lubing them a bit reduces the noise. However, the wrong lube can cause them to deteriorate more quickly, holds on to grime which then wears away at the bushing, etc.
Is silicone oil good for rubber?
This long-lasting silicone oil dries quick and clear, leaving no messy residue behind, and is safe to use on multiple surfaces including metal, rubber, vinyl, and plastic.
Will wd40 stop squeaky suspension?
As mentioned, WD-40 won’t be the solution to your problems if you have squeaky suspensions or if there is something wrong with your suspensions. Instead, what you need to rely on is a good lubricant to make sure that your suspensions function well enough and that they are protected from damage.
Why do my sway bars make so much noise?
Noise is a normal occurrence when towing a trailer and using any weight distribution or sway control hitch. In some cases the friction on the L-brackets can generate noise. Lubricating this joint is not recommended.
Why do sway bars squeak?
Different than a rattle or clunking sound, the squeaking noise coming from under your car is a potential warning sign that the bushings are starting to wear. This noise is typically caused by a stabilizer bar bushing that is not properly lubricated due to metal-on-metal contact.
Do new sway bar links squeak?
the creaking you hear is a result of the bushing to the sway bar contact when it goes over bumps it’s the polyurethane bushings that is causing this. OEM STI bar doesn’t create this problem because they are rubber bushings.. You can lube a lot to help cure the problem, but the lube will dry up
Can you spray WD40 on bushings?
Can you spray WD-40 on suspension bushings? The answer is NO. One of the main ingredients in WD-40 is petroleum distillates. This is not something that you want to go slathering on your rubber bushings because it will break them down over time.
Can you use silicone spray on bushings?
A helper can bounce the car up and down while you crawl around underneath and track down that squeak. If the sound is from a rubber suspension bushing, silicone spray is better. It won’t last as long, but the silicone won’t degrade the rubber bushing.
Is Lithium Grease good for bushings?
Lithium based grease adheres to metal very well, has a high heat tolerance, and is water resistant making it another possibility for use with polyurethane bushings. These lubricating agents are basically oil mixed with lithium soap, usually with several additives.
How often do you grease poly bushings?
Maintenance: Unlike rubber suspension bushings, poly ones need to be greased every three to five years. Feel of the Road: Polyurethane bushings help the vehicle feel like an extension of the driver. The bumps and potholes become more pronounced.
Do you grease nylon bushings?
Nylon bushings (bearings) can be used with or without any lubrication. Operating procedures will dictate if lubrication would be beneficial, but in most situations, it is recommended that the bushings be lubricated unless used in a dry application, typically in textile and food machinery.
How to Lubricate Sway Bar Bushings
Photograph by Klaus Eppele for Fotolia.com of a Silberpfeil. Sway bars, also known as stabilizer bars, are a component of a vehicle’s suspension system that helps to decrease road noise and body roll, stabilize vertical wheel movement, and absorb stress from the vehicle’s body. Sway bars are also known as stabilizer bars. They are placed in front of the tie rods, and the brackets that hold them to the subframe are attached to the frame.
Place the car on a flat surface and lock the doors. In addition, attach a wheel chock behind each rear tire and engage the emergency brake.
Position a jack stand beneath each frame on either side of the front end of the vehicle after raising the front of the car with the proper jack. Before climbing beneath the car, double-check the jack stands, the brake, and the wheel chocks to verify that the vehicle is stable for your own protection.
Turn the front wheels all the way to one side to provide access to the sway bar bushings on each side of the vehicle. Use anything sharp, like as a nail, to scratch the bracket in order to determine the position it was in before it was taken out of the bracket slot. It will make it easy to reinstall them in their original positions.
Remove the top and bottom sway bar brackets with the appropriate-sized socket and wrench from one side of the car and place them on the other side. Remove the bolts and tilt the sway bar so that it is pointing toward the rear of the automobile. Lifting up on the bracket will cause it to be moved out of position.
Placing the sway bar in a vice is a good idea. Squeeze out the sway bar bushings with silicone lube before removing them from the sway bar assembly.
Lubricate the bushings with an all-purpose silicone lubricant to keep them in good working order. Replacing the bushings on the sway bar until they reach the stop on the sway bar is a simple procedure. Turn the bushings so that the split edge of the bushings is towards the front of the car, as shown in the illustration.
Reinstall the sway bar in its original location on the car. Reposition the brackets so that they are in the same position as the markings put on the brackets previously. Replacing the bolts and securing the brackets to the car should be done now.
Repeat Steps 3 through 7 on the other side of the vehicle for the other side of the sway bar bushings to ensure that they are properly adjusted. The car should be jack-stacked, and the jack stands should be removed before the vehicle may be lowered to the ground. Detach the wheel chocks and detach the emergency brake from the steering column. References What You’ll Need to Get Started
- Jack and jack stands are two types of jack stands. Socket set with silicone lubrication for all purposes
Jack and jack stands are a pair of jacks that are used to support a load. Silicone lubricant for all-purpose use; Socket set
Sway bar bushings are frequently asked about by do-it-yourselfers and even some professionals. It’s an excellent concept, to be honest. Because of bumps and body weight change, the sway bar spins somewhat in the bushings as it travels through the car.
It eventually causes the bushings to wear out, which results in increased noise. Because of the close contact between the new bushing and the sway bar, it is possible that the new bushing will generate noise in the correct direction.
What lubricants should you use to lubricate sway bar bushings?
All petroleum-based lubricants should be avoided since they might damage the rubber substance. There are just two options left: a silicone-based grease or a dry Teflon aerosol spray. Using silicone grease has the advantage of remaining in place and not being washed away. Its disadvantage is that it collects and keeps road grit, converting it to a fine sandpaper that increases the wearing of bushings. In contrast, dry Teflon spray lubricates well and does not collect road grit. Prevent automobile door lock freezing with an application of dry teflon lubricant.
How to apply dry Teflon lube to sway bar bushings
Shaking the dry Teflon lubrication spray is required before to use. This mixture of Teflon powder and solvent is called an emulsion. Sprayed generously onto the sway bar bushing and allowed to dry. Once the solvent has evaporated, a white Teflon powder will be left in the bushing, which may be cleaned with a cloth. Dry Teflon lube may be found at any hardware shop. Rick Muscoplat has a new year’s resolution. Rick Muscoplat posted a blog entry on
Lubricating And/Or Replacing Sway Bar Bushings
Respect for those who deserve it is essential! It took the most dedicated VW Vortex moderator on the site to execute this DIY project in its entirety! [email protected] is the email account of Gary Thompson, Ph.D., with the vortex ID VGRT6. Please remember to express your gratitude to Gary, and if you happen to meet him at a bar, consider buying him a beverage. These do-it-yourself guides are more comprehensive than anything Bentley has provided before! ALTERING AND/OR LUBRICATING THE BUSHINGS ON THE FRONT SWAY BAR In the next section, you will learn how to replace and/or lubricate the front sway bar bushings on a Volkswagen Jetta and Golf/GTI from the MKIV generation.
Almost usually, replacing and/or lubricating the bushings will completely alleviate the noise problem.
Please remember that you are performing these operations at your own risk and that you should expect to make minor modifications as you go.
When replacing your front sway bar bushings using OEM (as opposed to aftermarket) bushings, please pay close attention to the following instructions: However, if you are only LUBRICATING your current bushings, this does not apply: The MKIV vehicles appear to have two separate front sway bars (at the very least), one with a diameter of 21mm and the other with a diameter of 23mm, according to the information available so far.
- Neither the 21mm nor the 23mm bars are specified on any of the vehicles I’ve seen, but I believe the 21mm bar may be used on early model year cars with the ordinary suspension and the 23mm bar may be used on later model year cars and those with the sport/special-edition suspensions.
- My 1999.5 Jetta VR6 came with a 21mm front sway bar, which I found to be enough.
- Because of the slightly different form of the new bushings, the existing brackets that secure the bushings to the subframe (1J0-411-336-C) have also been upgraded with new brackets to accommodate the new bushings (1J0-411-336-D).
- I recommend that you either (1) measure the diameter of your front sway bar before obtaining any new bushings or (2) remove one of your old bushings and look at the component number before making a purchase.
- Replacement bushings should be purchased if the component number for your existing bushings ends in the letter ‘G’.
- Finally, check with your parts provider to ensure that the components are correct before buying any.
- I acquired the OEM new bushings and brackets from a company called The bushings (both the ‘R’ and the ‘T’ are the same price) were $11.25 apiece, and the brackets (the ‘D’) were $5.03 each (all prices were given online on the 20th of August, 2003.
If you do not currently have the new ‘D’ brackets installed on your car, you will only need to purchase two new bushings.
For the first time, I had to remove the bushings and oil them, which took almost 2 hours.
The operations outlined below can be completed with the vehicle on the ground, on ramps, or on jack stands, although they are substantially easier to do with the vehicle on stands.
The operation is made substantially easier if you remove the front wheels, and I strongly advise you to do so if you have the car on stands.
If you want to complete the next operations with the automobile on the ground, skip to step 6 and continue to step 7.
If you have previous experience jacking up your car and putting it on stands, simply follow the steps in step 6 as directed.
Caution should be exercised while attempting to park your vehicle on stands if you are not comfortable doing so.
Working near or beneath a vehicle that has been properly supported is strictly prohibited.
The pinch rail, which is represented by the yellow arrow in the figure below, is the location where the stock Volkswagen jack is used to raise the vehicle.
In order to assist spread the load and prevent damage to the underneath of the car, it is a good idea to attach a thin piece of wood or hard rubber between the jack cup and pinch rail.
Take note of the 6″ × 6″ piece of plywood that is affixed to the top of the Jack Cup.
The jackstands should be positioned immediately below the primary frame rails of the vehicle, as indicated by the red arrow in the illustration above.
By positioning the stands too far back from the front edge, you run the danger of damaging or even crushing the frame rail.
It was important to me that the jackstands were situated immediately below the little opening in the bottom of the frame rail (see picture above for approximate location of stands relative to the front of the frame rail).
In this case, it is a good idea to provide a protective barrier between the jack stand and the frame rail – I used a double-thick piece of standard cardboard for this purpose.
Carefully lower the lifted side of the vehicle onto the jack stand.
Steps 3 and 4 should be repeated on the other side of the automobile to complete the operation.
6) The green arrow in the figure above indicates the general placement of the sway bar bushings.
There are two bushings on the automobile, one on each side of the vehicle’s body.
Remove the lower 16mm bolt from the front of the control arm and disconnect the sway bar endlinks (on both the driver’s and passenger’s sides) from the front of the control arm (indicated by the red arrow in the picture below).
The detaching of the endlinks makes it possible to remove the brackets that hold the sway bar bushings to the subframe more easily; it would be exceedingly difficult or impossible to remove the brackets if this step was not performed.
If the automobile is on stands (as opposed to being on the ground or on ramps) and the front wheels have been removed, turn the steering wheel completely to one side.
The tie rod boots will be moved out from behind the bushings as a result of turning the wheels in this manner, allowing for substantially more space to be available for the process described below.
The sway bar bushings and retaining brackets are placed just in front of the tie rod boots, as indicated by the yellow arrow in the illustration below.
As demonstrated below, once the bolt has been removed, rotating top of bracket towards the rear of the car (1) while simultaneously pulling up on the sway bar (2) will allow you to detach the bracket from the subframe.
When removing the tab, it may take a few minutes of wriggling the bracket back and forth while repositioning the sway bar.
It took me at least ten minutes to completely remove the bracket the first time I tried it out.
(At this point, lowering the subframe would make the task easier, but doing so would cause several additional issues and would not be worth the effort.) 12.
The bushing has been split on the front edge to make it easier to remove.
The illustration to the right demonstrates how the sway bar bushing and retaining bracket are put together.
The split in the bushing can be seen by the green arrow pointing in the direction of the split.
Do not lubricate your current bushings until you have finished the rest of the job.
PepBoys and other similar establishments sell it in cans for roughly $3-4.
(skip steps 15-17 – I recommend that you read them though, even if they do not apply to your procedure).
Sway bar bushings with 137k miles on them are replaced with new ones (1J0-411-314-R).
Sway bar bushings with 137k miles on them are replaced with new ones (1J0-411-314-R).
If the difference is simply due to wear rather than a variation in design, I’m quite confident in my conclusion.
It’s no surprise that the previous bushings were so loud!
It is extremely delicate; do all you can to preserve it as intact as possible when installing it.
The comparison between the old (1J0-411-336-C) and new (1J0-411-336-D) retaining brackets is shown in the image below.
Using the old brackets with the new bushings didn’t work for me, so I tried something else.
As a result, the installation of the new bushing is more complicated than just reversing the previous procedures.
Be sure to take note of the exact alignment of the bushing within the bracket.
Use the image below (as well as the ones above, notably the one showing the previous bushing/bracket combo) to assist you in accurately orienting the bushing.
Installation: Open the split edge of the bushing and slide it onto the bar (check that the bushing is installed in the right position; this is explained in detail above if you skipped steps 15-17).
To install the bushing, slide it in along the sway bar until it makes contact with the stop, which is located just inside of where the bushing should be installed.
To do this, slide the bracket into place behind the bushing and try to catch the curved tab on the bottom of the bracket in the slot on the subframe while lifting and lowering the sway bar up and down the suspension (similar to the procedure used to get the bracket off, but in reverse).
If you are able to do so, or if you can get it within a few centimeters of where you want it, reinsert the 13mm bolt and tighten it to 18 ft-lb (25 Nm).
(skip steps 21-23).
In the case of replacing new bushings or reinstalling bushings that are not severely worn, you may find yourself in a scenario where you are unable to push the top of the bracket to within a centimeter or more of the subframe member.
As a result of the fact that the hole in the replacement bushing is roughly 2mm smaller in diameter than the diameter of the sway bar, this is the case.
To fasten the bracket to the subframe, the manufacturer provides a self-tapping bolt that is 20mm in length and has tapered threads near the end.
This is the circumstance in which I found myself.
The following steps should be followed in order to bring the top of the bracket near enough for the threads of a 20mm bolt to catch: Purchase three (3) bolts from Home Depot, Lowe’s, or any other hardware shop – two (2) M8 x 20mm and one (1) M8 x 25mm – and set them aside.
This should cause the top of the bracket to be pulled closer to the subframe member, allowing the bushing to be more thoroughly seated in the bracket.
The distance between the top of the bracket and the bottom of the subframe should be significantly reduced now.
If this is the case, tighten the bolt to 18 ft-lb (foot pounds) (25 Nm).
I ended up utilizing the new 20mm bolt rather of wasting time trying to figure out if the old 20mm bolt would work.
Twenty-fourth, turn the steering wheel completely around to the opposite side of the vehicle, and then repeat steps 10-23 to replace and/or lubricate the bushing on the other side of the vehicle.
Tighten the bolt to a torque of 33 ft-lb (45 Nm).
If the automobile was lifted during the preceding operation, lower the car by following the procedures that are appropriate for the lifting technique that was employed.
The noise from the front sway bar bushings should be eliminated!
As is usually the case, you should proceed at your own risk.
Thank you to Eric (BCDS2003T) for his support with the procedure and for allowing us to utilize his parent’s garage for the duration of the project. For information on the bushings on his 2000 Jetta VR6, we are grateful to Shashi (DJ-SBK).
What do you lubricate sway bar bushings with?
Prepare thebushings by lubricating them with an all-purpose silicone lube. Using thesway bar as a guide, push thebushings back until they hit the stop. (Optional) Thebushingsshould be turned so that the split edge of thebushingsis towards the front of the vehicle. Nogrease. In order for theswaybarto spin, the rubberbushingmust flex in the same way as a rubber band does, stretching and snapping back. This is the most efficient method since it attempts to return to the same spot every time. The static position is continually changing depending on the direction of approach.
- Should the bushings on the control arms be lubricated as well?
- Over time, petroleum has a tendency to emulsify or “break down” the rubber.
- If you are putting newbushingsin stampedcontrol arms, a very light coating of anti-seize will make the installation process go more smoothly.
- Yes, lubricating poly suspensionbushings with a silicone-based synthetic waterproofgrease is the proper method of doing so.
- In order to handle better, endure longer, and function as well as urethane without the squeak, many sway barbushings are built of innovative thermoplastic materials.
Do you need to grease sway bar links?
It is necessary to use grease. Despite the fact that the bard does not move much, any interference with its movement will have a negative impact on the suspension’s ability to move properly. To lubricate sway barbushings, what kind of lubricants should you use? All petroleum-based lubricants should be avoided since they might damage the rubber substance. There are just two options left: a silicone-based grease or a dry Teflon spray. In comparison to other types of grease, silicone grease has the benefit of tending to stay in place and not wash off.
The Proper Way to Use a Grease Gun Zerk Fittings are a type of fitting that is used to join two pieces of metal together.
- Make the purchase of a grease pistol with a zerk fitting attached to the end of it. Apply pressure to the end of the zerk fitting with the grease gun’s nozzle. Pump the grease gun a few times. When you notice grease squeezing out of the edges of the ball joint, turn off the pump. After you have removed the grease gun from the ball joint, continue the operation until all of the ball joints have been lubricated.
Furthermore, where do you put the lubricant for the sway bar bushings? Grease the bushings with an all-purpose silicone grease to keep them in place. Using thesway bar as a guide, push thebushings back until they hit the stop. (Optional) Thebushingsshould be turned so that the split edge of thebushingsis towards the front of the vehicle. Should the bushings on the sway bar be tight? Generally speaking, loosebushings or very softbushings render thebar ineffective. It is recommended that you use as tight of a set of bump stops as you can get away with, however some cars can operate without them entirely.
What grease for sway bar bushings?
What’s the best grease to put on sway bar bushings, and how do you apply it? There’s nothing special about it. There are only rubber bushings. The best case scenario would be a link to a product I could purchase from NAPA or Amazon. Generally speaking, rubber bushings are not oiled, although I enjoy using Moly Slip on greasable parts when they are available. Never-Seize is another option. Wrap a small piece of Teflon tape around the bar where the bushings will be installed. Seriously. It’s a good fit.
- It is advisable to use a synthetic bushing grease that is silicone-based or silicone-impregnated.
- That is exactly what we (Hotchkis) include in each and every one of our kits.
- on March 6, 2017 I’ll admit it.
- And my polyurethane front end kit, which has been in use for years, is as silent as it possibly can be.
- Following the consumption of the grease that came with them, I have no recollection of what I used in its place.
- Mostly because I had a tube of it lying around from years ago and it was effective.
- It’s more durable than any other combination I’ve tested.
I just thought it may be something that could be useful.
This is something I enjoy.
What is the duration of the event?
It works wonderfully, and it lasts a long time.
As the name says, it is bright red when it is first applied, making it simple to determine whether you have applied enough to completely replace the old, filthy, blackened grease.
This has proven to be really effective for me.
In comparison to the big box retailer, they sell it in larger sizes and thicker.
Neither squeaks nor tightens, and I haven’t re-lubed the transmission in years (maybe 50k miles?).
This is something I enjoy.
What is the duration of the event?
I’m thinking about putting some on the Samurai simply to see how durable they are; it’s incredibly simple to get to the sway bar on that vehicle.
You know, the green “Marine” grease that you can buy at car parts stores. That is what I use on all of my bushings, and it works quite well. But it’s a nasty piece of work.
Grease the sway bar bushings?
All I have to do now is get my $.02 worth of value into this place. In fact, the torque has absolutely nothing to do with the sway bar or how it operates. The brackets that hold the sway bar bushings can only be tightened down against the rear cradle, and once they are fastened against the cradle, they cannot be moved any further. The torque applied to the bracket bolts can be as little as half the manufacturer specification or as much as twice the factory specification, but the brackets will still only be held against the cradle if the torque used is less than the original specification.
- Check that the automobile is level on the ground and that the suspension is running at its normal operating load before readjusting the torque settings.
- This is a common error that many people make.
- For the grease that has accumulated on OEM rubber bushings, clean the sway bar and bushing to ensure that they grip the road.
- The movement will be handled by the rubber.
- Squeaking bushings are caused by age and exposure to the weather, which hardens the rubber and prevents it from gripping the sway bar as effectively as a new soft bushing.
- While the bars are moving, there is nothing to protect them from becoming misaligned with the bushings.
Grease/lubricate rubber stabilizer bar bushings?
I recently purchased a set of these bushings to replace the ones that had been worn out in my front stabilizer bar. There was no grease or lube included in the package. The manufacturer does not specify the construction material, but they have a rubbery or tire-like scent about them. Is it necessary to oil them before to installation or not? And if so, what kind of lubricant should I use to do so? asked 21st of July, 1939, 19:371 In the few instances when I saw them, the manual recommended that they be installed with soapy water since petroleum-based lubricants damage rubber.
Keep in mind to torque down the bushings carrier when the stabilizer bar is in the “work” position, which is defined as the position the stabilizer bar has while the loaded vehicle (which is generally simply the driver) rests on the wheels of the vehicle.
answered 21st of July, 1922, 20:22 MartinMartin has 7,5632 gold badges, 22 silver badges, 38 bronze badges, and 4 platinum badges.
- Maybe you should note that putting petroleum-based lubricants on rubber bushings would most certainly shorten their useful life expectancy? at 20:28 on July 21, 2019
- It doesn’t matter whether the lubricant is harmful to the rubber since it will squeeze out of the “joint” and gather dirt, which will eventually cause corrosion to the metal. As soon as they are clamped down, the only thing that moves is the rubber itself flexing, thus there is nothing for the lubricant to lubricate. at 20:33 UTC on July 21, 2019
- @Martin: Could you perhaps elaborate on what you mean by “job position”? I had intended to replace each bushing individually in order to keep the vehicle “connected” to the frame as I replaced each bushing. At 20:54 on July 21, 2019, @Martin: Thank you for your assistance
- After I went under the car, it became evident what you were referring to when you said “work position.” At 3:09 p.m. on July 22, 2019,
Not the answer you’re looking for? Browse other questions taggedsuspensionlubricationbushingrubberorask your own question.
Originally posted by chmoorewrx, this quote It is necessary to use grease. Despite the fact that the bar does not move much, any interference with its movement will have a negative impact on the suspension’s ability to move properly. It was very certainly intended to be mobile; otherwise, it would have been fastened to the bar with mounts welded to it or something similar. And if that were the case, it would just be a spring assist on either side, with no impact on the opposite side of the spring assist.
- There isn’t a single road in the world that fulfills that criteria.
- You wouldn’t require suspension if you didn’t have a problem.
- Because of the way the Subaru bar is mounted, it will not be able to move until the endlinks’ pivot capabilities have been exhausted.
- The factory-installed sway bar bushings are extremely tight, practically holding the bar in place.
- They are oiled when they are sent from the factory.
- Grease and maybe some teflon tape, as has been suggested by others, are the solution.
- There is no sign of grease on either of them at any time.
- Neither automobile had any grease applied to the SPT bars/bushings, and neither car creaks when driven.
- Due to the fact that the bars are painted, grease will just create a sticky mess under the bushings.
- As a result of this, I severely doubt the necessity of lubricating the swaybar bushings in Subaru SPT vehicles.
- They make use of firm polyurethane bushings, and their bars are able to pivot and swing pretty freely in the bushings, which is quite impressive.
The Best Grease for Polyurethane Bushings
As one of the first questions you must answer, it might be a bit difficult to figure out where to begin. Everyone has an opinion, and there are a variety of lubrication solutions available. Honestly, any of them will “work” in the sense that any oil will lubricate a polyurethane bushing in some way. Not all greases are made alike, and when it comes to poly bushings, you want two characteristics in particular: strong adhesion (stickiness) and a low coefficient of friction (coefficient of friction) (reduced friction).
When it comes to lubrication for polyurethane, we’ll go through some of the greatest solutions available to you.
Silicone vs Lithium (PTFE and Moly)
We will examine the characteristics of the two most prevalent types of lubricants for polyurethane bushings in order to better understand what makes them tick.
Silicone Based Lubricant
Silicone lubricant is extremely sticky and adheres to a wide range of surfaces, including polyurethane, zinc coated sleeves, and even the naked skin. This is one of the primary reasons that many poly bushing manufacturers employ a silicone basis in their grease formulations. PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) is a typical addition to that base because it minimizes friction and is fully waterproof, both of which are desirable characteristics in a lubricant. Even though PTFE does not mix well with oil or any other liquid, it clings silicone lubricant to polyurethane bushings and sleeves extremely effectively, resulting in a difficult-to-clean, sticky combination.
Lithium Based Grease
Lithium-based grease clings to metal extremely well, has a high heat tolerance, and is water resistant, making it an excellent choice for use with polyurethane bushings and other similar materials. These lubricating compounds are essentially a mixture of oil and lithium soap, with a variety of additives added in. In addition to Moly (Molybdenum Disulfide), which is a popular ingredient to PTFE compounds, one of the additives widely used in lithium grease is Moly (Molybdenum Disulfide). Lithium grease is often thinner and less sticky than silicone grease, which are both substantial disadvantages, but it is still a dependable alternative for any everyday driver who wants to save money.
We at DST recommend that you use the grease recommended by the manufacturer because it is frequently specifically made to work with the specifications of that particular mix of polyurethane.
When it comes time to do maintenance, you may replenish your supply of this grease individually.
Energy Suspension:Formula 5
This type of grease is often a lithium-based grease that has many characteristics with the manufacturer’s grease, such as water resistant qualities and tacky capabilities, among other characteristics. All of the characteristics that make this grease suitable for its intended use in water-based applications also make it an excellent candidate for use as polyurethane bushing grease. Having said that, this grease is often thinner than the silicone-based lubricant used by the manufacturer.
Heavy Duty Grease
This is a grease that is designed for use in heavy machinery and is extremely resistant to cold, heat, and other environmental conditions. In most cases, it is a lithium-based grease with additives that make it stronger and more sticky, allowing it to remain in place even when subjected to tremendous pressure.
If, for any reason, you are unable to obtain more manufacturer’s grease or if you want to use a lithium-based lubricant, this is an excellent alternative.
Not So Suitable Lubricants
Even high-quality 80W motor oil will not remain adherent to your polyurehtane bushings for an extended period of time. However, polyurethane bushings are not sealed, and when your suspension travels, whatever lubricant is between the bushing and the metal will be exposed to the elements. This is especially true in a closed system like your engine, where metal on metal parts are generating enormous amounts of friction and heat. Motor oil has excellent lubricating characteristics; but, in the case of poly suspension bushings, these properties are not given the opportunity to shine.
As a temporary cure for noisy bushings, this product is often used, but because it has such a short effective lifespan, if you want to use it as a long-term remedy, buy a case at Costco and put it in the trunk. Whatever the name, whatever the components, a spray lubrication isn’t a good alternative for the manufacturer’s silicone grease or even one of the other available solutions in this situation.
Used Motor Oil From A Bucket In The Barn
Don’t. Simply said, don’t. Our lab coats and safety goggles are on their way to see what this grease is capable of doing.
Just Like Mother Used To Make
Again, the highest limit heat range of this grease (some of which may reach 550 degrees) is not something that happens on a regular basis, but it is interesting to be able to observe with your own eyes how the grease reacts to heat. Consequently, we greased the poly bushings with the same manufacturer’s lubricant, placed them in the DST cookie machine, and gradually increased the temperature. In accordance with the bushing manufacturer’s recommendations, we set the heat to 200 degrees for 5 hours and then turned it off.
Yes, nothing changed, save for the fact that we had to ventilate the room once we finished. These lubricants are extremely heat resistant, and in many cases are more resistant to heat than the bushings themselves. If you use one of these lubricants and find that it is seeping from one of your bushings, you should contact the fire department to have them come out and extinguish the flames. As previously said, this grease must be extremely sticky, and what better method to determine this than to attempt to wipe it away.
In order to understand the difference between the manufacturer’s silicone grease and a marine grade lithium grease when you just try to wipe them away with a shop towel, we’ll take a look at the difference between the manufacturer’s silicone grease and a marine grade lithium grease
Click for Larger Image
Before wiping, the manufacturer’s grease should be removed.
Click for Larger Image
After wiping, the grease from the manufacturer is revealed.
Click for Larger Image
Before wiping, use Lithium Marine grease.
Click for Larger Image
After wiping, apply Lithium Marine grease.
Granted, the force given to each bushing was probably just a few pounds per square inch difference, but you can see in this broad illustration that the silicone grease used by the manufacturer adheres to the bushing considerably better than the lithium grease used by the manufacturer.
However, even if part of the manufacturer’s grease may be wiped away, there is still a coating that adheres to the bushing, and removing it altogether is exceedingly difficult to do. If you weren’t satisfied with this exam, you’re going to like the following one much more.
The Major Adhesion Test (The Big Guns)
However, while your grease will not be directly impacted by a powerwasher, pressure and water are two regular challenges that the grease coating on your bushings will have to overcome. For now, because DST is still debating whether or not it is necessary to construct a state of the art facility for research and development, we created an impromptu stand by taking each of the manufacturer’s lubricants (a Moly Lithium Marine grease, a Moly Polyurea Heavy Duty grease, and 80W motor oil) and plastering them on eight identical polyurethane bushings.
The outcomes are as follows.
We just wanted to test the adhesion to polyurethane qualities of the various lubricants under harsh circumstances, and that’s all we were after.
No, this is not a sterile, exacting laboratory test performed in a controlled environment.
12 Inch Range, 4 Seconds
It’s very obvious from the photos that the silicone-based lubricant provided by the manufacturer performed the best. After the 12 inch powerwash, all of the lubricants were still in place with the exception of the HD Polyurea and 80W oil. Prothane, Energy Suspension, and Daystar withstood the 6 inch powerwashing far better than all of the other lubricants tested in this study. During the 6 inch wash, SuperPro started to yield a little, but it still outperformed Whiteline (the only lithium-based manufacturer grease), which was nearly totally blown away.
Consequences of Alternate Grease
As a result, we decided to leave the oil on the bushings overnight and then clean them with bleach wipes in preparation for their next test. However, we discovered that some of the bushings did not come off completely clean. When tested with manufacturer grease, the bushings appeared to be the same as previously, but when tested with Marine lithium and HD polyurea grease, the bushings appeared to be discolored, which might imply that there was some type of chemical reaction taking place. After contacting the manufacturer of these bushings, they informed me that they strongly recommend using the grease supplied by the manufacturer since certain lithium-based greases have been shown to cause the bushing to dry up and break.
Nothing can deteriorate or otherwise harm polyurethane bushings, but enough friction on anything without the correct lubrication may cause it to wear out prematurely.
If, for any reason, you are unable to get manufacturer grease, a silicone-based lubricant with a PTFE component will serve as a suitable substitute.
If you have any questions, please contact us.
Have you ever experimented with a lubricant that didn’t work out too well? Please let us know what you think in the comments area. From all of us at DST, we wish you a smooth (and silent) ride and a hard driving experience.