How-To: Replace an Alternator
- Step 1: Disconnect the Battery. First and most importantly: disconnect the battery.
- Step 2: Disconnect the Wires.
- Step 3: Remove the Belt From the Pulley.
- Step 4: Remove Bolts.
- Step 5: Halfway There.
- Step 6: Examine the Replacement.
- Step 7: Reverse the Removal Steps.
Can I replace alternator by myself?
In general, it will take about two hours for you to replace an alternator on your own, though this could vary somewhat depending on your knowledge of car mechanics. If you take your car into a shop in order to have the alternator replaced, timing may vary somewhat, and you may have to leave the car for the day.
Is it difficult to change an alternator?
It’s not horribly difficult, but there’s a lot more work involved than ever before and one might need some unexpected tools. Open the hood, find the alternator, and determine whether your tools can get onto all the fasteners they need to get onto, including those for the serpentine belt tensioner, if so equipped.
Do you need to disconnect battery before changing alternator?
1. Disconnect That Battery. The alternator replacement tip that might seem obvious, but is easy to forget, is to ensure that your vehicle’s negative battery cable has been disconnected before you begin the work.
What tools do I need to change an alternator?
In addition to a replacement alternator, you’ll need some tools:
- Hand tools like ratchets, sockets, and wrenches.
- Belt tensioner tool.
- Gloves and safety gear.
- Battery tender or memory saver, if necessary.
- Jack, jack stands, and wheel chocks, if necessary.
When replacing an alternator What else should I replace?
When replacing and alternator, other upgrades are worth doing too. Go ahead and change the serpentine belt, tensioner and idler roller when replacing an alternator on your car or truck.
Why do alternators go bad?
Most of the time, alternators fail as a result of age or use. However, some other factors can cause an alternator to fail prematurely. Fluid leaking on the car alternator can commonly lead to failure. Often, engine oil or power steering fluid can work its way into the alternator and cause it to malfunction or fail.
How much does it cost to get an alternator replaced?
When your car starts having electrical problems, it’s a sign you need an alternator replacement. Considering the price of a new alternator as well as labor, you should expect to spend anywhere between $500 and $1,000 to get a new one for your vehicle.
What happens when you touch alternator with metal?
it will create a direct battery short, spark all over the place, melt things and burn you. be careful when working around that terminal on the alternator with metal tools or jewelry or whatever.
At what voltage should you replace the alternator?
However, if it is less than 13.8 volts, then you should measure voltage at Alternator B+ and the alternator case. (Note: If the model is insulated, you have to use a ground stud to get a reading.) At that point, if the voltage falls between 12.6 and 13.7 volts, you need to replace your alternator.
How to Change an Alternator
When doing bedding, please provide for plenty of safety space. Make sure you’re doing it in a safe and supervised atmosphere. Stop the automobile from 85 mph to 25 mph by applying 70-80 percent pedal power for a total of 5-8 braking actions. With each stop, the brakes should become more comfortable. Bringing the vehicle to a complete stop is not recommended, especially while the right foot is on the brake pedal and the brake discs are hot. When doing bedding operations, do not use your left foot as a brake.
If the disks have temperature paint on them, the green paint should have gone completely white; otherwise, the disks should have been completely white when tested.
If the procedure is carried out on a racetrack, 2-3 hot circuits around the circuit at race pace should be sufficient to ensure that the pads and disks are completely bed down.
- 1 Make sure you park your automobile on an even, level surface. Safety should always come first while performing maintenance on your car. You may need to jack the car, so make sure it is parked on a surface that is adequate for the task at hand before starting. Ideally, it should be equally paved and level
- Working on a level surface is more convenient, even when you don’t have access to a jack or jackstand. In the case of a normal transmission car, ensure that the parking brake is applied or that the vehicle is in park.
- 2 Disconnect the battery from the computer. Locate the appropriate socket for loosening the bolt that is holding the cable on the negative terminal in place. In this case, the battery’s terminal is marked with a conspicuous (-) symbol. Pulling the cord from the terminal will allow you to unplug the battery once it’s free. It is never safe to operate in an automobile’s engine bay unless the battery has first been disconnected for safety reasons.
- When working on the alternator without first disconnecting the battery, you run the risk of being shocked or causing damage to the car. It is OK to leave the positive cable connected.
- s3 If required, raise the car on jacks. Follow the serpentine or auxiliary belts to the alternator in your engine bay, which should be on the left side of the engine. Depending on the car, it may be located on the top, closest to you, or it may be located on one of the sides, making it harder to get to the vehicle. If you can’t get to it easily from the engine bay, you’ll have to jack up the vehicle and remove it.
- Before you jack up the vehicle, be sure the parking brake is engaged and the wheels are blocked. Once the car has been jacked up, place jack stands beneath it for further safety.
- 4 Disconnect the alternator’s primary power wire from the battery. The primary power wire will be the thick cable that travels from the battery to the alternator and is hooked to the alternator. Some vehicles may be able to accommodate a ratchet, while others may only allow for the use of an open-ended wrench. This will depend on the amount of room available in your car. Remove the bolt that holds it in place and remove it away from the point where it is joined
- In most American-made automobiles, standard-sized sockets or wrenches will be required, whereas metric sockets or wrenches will be required in most international applications. A harness links the only other cable that runs to the alternator, so it will be simple to distinguish it from the others. Set the bolt away in a secure location until you are ready to install the new alternator.
- 5 Remove the safety clasp that connects the wire harness to the chassis. The control harness is the only additional piece of wiring that connects to the alternator. Release the clasp that holds the harness together with your finger or a flat-head screwdriver, and then slide it apart with your other hand.
- It’s important to be cautious while using a screwdriver to get to hard-to-reach clips so that you don’t shatter the plastic. Remove the loose wire from the alternator and tuck it away so that it does not snag on the alternator when you remove it.
- 1 The auto-tensioner can be used to relieve tension on the belt (if equipped). Although the alternator itself can be used to provide tension to the serpentine or auxiliary belt in certain cars, others rely on an automatic tensioner pulley. To release tension from the belt, insert the square drive from a breaker bar into the hole in the auto-tensioner pulley and apply pressure in a clockwise manner.
- If your car does not have an auto-tensioner, you may tell by looking at the alternator mounting bracket: if the bolts in the bracket are able to slide from side to side in the bracket, the vehicle does not have an auto-tensioner. Before releasing the auto-tensioner, you’ll need to slip the belt off the alternator pulley
- Otherwise, the belt will get stuck. Depending on the vehicle, you may require assistance from a buddy to release the strain as you remove the belt.
- 2 If the alternator does not have an auto-tensioner, loosen the nuts that hold it in place. You may release the tension on the belt in automobiles without an automatic tensioner pulley by simply releasing the two bolts that hold the alternator to the engine. These will almost always require a 14mm or 1 2inch (1.3 cm) socket, however you may have to experiment with different sizes.
- Because of the stress on the alternator belt, when the bolts are loosen, the alternator will slide into the bracket
- This is normal. If the serpentine or auxiliary belt is not broken, it is possible that you will not need to remove it.
- 3 Inspect the serpentine belt for signs of wear and tear. On the sides and bottom of the belt, look for evidence of glossing or glazing (shinier parts). In addition, look for evidence of cracking on both the top and bottom of the container.
- If you discover any of these problems, you will have to replace it.
- 4 Take the alternator out of the engine bay and set it aside. The alternator should come out effortlessly when the belt has been removed from the alternator pulley and the wires have been disconnected.
- It is possible that you will have to wriggle the alternator around certain objects in order to remove it. Note how you wiggled the alternator out of the engine bay to make room for the replacement alternator
- 5 Make a comparison between the new alternator and the old one. Before you begin installing the new alternator, place it on a table next to the old one that you just removed from the vehicle. Inspect to ensure that the mounting holes and wire connections are in the same location on each pieces, as well as that they are the same size.
- Even if you supplied particular information when ordering the alternator, this step is necessary to ensure that you were delivered with the exact component. It is necessary to return the new alternator to the auto parts store in order to obtain a replacement that is compatible.
- However, even if you supplied particular information when ordering the alternator, this step is necessary to ensure that you were delivered with the proper item. It is necessary to return the new alternator to the auto parts store in order to obtain a replacement that is compatible
- Keep an eye out for any wire that can become tangled up behind the alternator as you put it into position. While sliding the alternator into position, keep an eye out for the serpentine belt in order to avoid damaging it.
- 2 Insert the mounting bolts into the holes. Insert the mounting bolts through the alternator and into the mounting bracket by sliding them through the alternator. Using your hands, tighten them until they’re snug. It is possible to completely tighten the bolts at this stage in vehicles equipped with an auto-tensioner pulley
- Otherwise, leave the bolts slack.
- If you don’t have an auto-tensioner, you’ll have to tighten the belt with the help of the alternator later on. In order to ensure that the alternator remains in place, check that the bolts are tight enough to prevent it from sliding about in the bracket.
- 3 Place the belt over the new alternator pulley and tighten it. Install the new belt or re-route the old belt through all of the relevant pulleys to complete the process. If you are unsure of how to properly route the belt, check for a schematic on the body of the car or within the engine compartment to serve as a reference point. The belt will need to be wrapped around any devices that are meant to be powered by the belt in your particular car.
- However, if there is no diagram stuck in the engine bay, you may be able to locate the diagram by consulting your vehicle’s owner’s handbook. A schematic may also be available on the manufacturer’s website
- However, this is not guaranteed.
- 4 If required, apply strain to the alternator using a pry bar to ensure proper operation. If your car does not have an auto-tensioner pulley, use a strong screwdriver or pry bar to apply pressure to the alternator until the belt is tight. Pry the alternator out of the way by using the pry bar that you placed between the alternator and the engine.
- With the screwdriver or pry bar, take care not to pinch or cut any wires. You or a buddy will need to keep applying pressure to the bolts until they are completely tightened.
- Adjust the bolts and belt tension to your liking. On finish tightening the two mounting bolts up, apply more stress to the belt using the alternator and a pry bar, and then tighten them up the rest of the way using the proper socket and ratchet. In this way, the alternator will be able to maintain the strain on the belt.
- As soon as the serpentine belt is fitted, check to see that it has less than an inch of play back and forth. If the belt is a bit slack, loosen the bolts and apply pressure to the belt again with the pry bar while tightening the bolts
- 6 Connect the power cable and the monitor harness together as shown. Replacing the wire harness and the bolt that attaches the main power line to the alternator in the same sequence as they were removed will ensure that everything works properly. Ensure that they are installed in the same manner as they were in the old alternator.
- Inspect and tighten the primary power cable onto the new alternator to ensure it is secure. Make certain that you hear an audible “click” from the wire harness to check that it is properly installed
- Inspect and tighten the primary power cable onto the new alternator until it is secure. In order to check that the wire harness is properly installed, listen for an audible “click” coming from it.
- If the battery is completely depleted, you may need to jump start the vehicle. Take away the jack supports and lower the car if it has been raised.
Create a new question
- Question What is a serpentine belt tool, and how does it work? To release the bolt on the belt tensioner and allow the serpentine belt to go loose, a long ratchet or “breaking bar” is typically employed. Question How can I be certain that my car’s alternator is the source of the problem? In the event that you are unsure how to diagnose the problem yourself, you can take your automobile to a shop and have them examine your alternator (even if you plan on doing the repairs yourself)
- Question What is the procedure for replacing the alternator on a 1989 Cadillac El Dorado? Changing the alternator on most automobiles is a straightforward procedure. Locate the alternator (which must be linked to the serpentine belt), and then research the procedure for replacing it. The location of the alternator and the manner in which it is attached are the most significant differences between automobiles. Question What should I do if my alternator stops working? Begin by removing it and replacing it. In addition, you may want to check your battery to see whether it still has electricity because the alternator, which is intended to charge it, has failed to do so. Purchase a new wire harness as well to ensure that the greatest amount of power is distributed throughout your vehicle. Question What tools are required for the alternator replacement? A set of sockets or spanners, as well as a lever that may be used to maintain tension on the belt while it is being replaced
- Question Do I have to leave the negative cable plugged in at all times? No, it is preferable to remove the battery wires and clean the terminals when the vehicle is turned off. Question Will a jump start work to get the alternator to start? Yes, they do this rather frequently
- Is it necessary for me to replace my battery? Community member Alexander Hollings Answer If your alternator is faulty, it is possible that it has exhausted your battery
- However, this does not necessarily imply that the battery is faulty. However, if it has been totally drained on a number of occasions, it may need to be replaced. Remove the battery from the vehicle and take it to your local auto parts store to be tested
- This will indicate whether or not the battery is still capable of holding a charge. Question What is the best way to test the voltage of my new alternator? Your battery is meant to be at 12 to 14 volts when it is fully charged
- If your alternator is functioning properly, it will be at that voltage or slightly higher. You can connect a sensor to the alternator and ground it away from the battery, and then read the data from it. Question What is causing the banging sounds coming from my alternator? Community member Alexander Hollings Answer The alternator’s inside rotates in sync with the pulley on which it is mounted. It is possible that there is anything faulty within the alternator that is clicking when it is struck by the rotating assembly if you hear knocking sounds. If your alternator is failing, you should get it checked
- It may be necessary to replace it.
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- There are several auto parts stores that will loan you the serpentine belt tool in exchange for an extremely tiny refundable deposit. Take pictures with your digital camera as you take apart the pieces. This demonstrates where things come from. This also makes remembering the order while putting things back together much simpler. If you are having difficulty locating the serpentine belt tensioner, you can refer to the drawing of the belt, which is most likely to be situated in the engine bay compartment.
- When reinstalling the old alternator bolts on the new alternator, do not tighten them down until all of the bolts have been replaced. It is always advisable to let the engine to cool down before working near it in order to avoid burning yourself. Disconnect the negative battery wire before working on any electrical components in your car to avoid shorting out the electrical system and harming the electronics
- This will keep you from damaging the electronics.
About This Article
Summary of the ArticleXTo replace an alternator, first park the car on a level, even surface and then unhook the cord from the negative battery terminal (see illustration). Locate the alternator and jack up the car if you can’t get to it without jacking up the vehicle. Remove the primary power line that goes from the battery to the alternator with a wrench or a ratchet, and then release the safety clip that connects the wiring harness to the alternator. Remove the auto-tensioner or loosen the bolts on the alternator, and then remove the old alternator and replace it with the new alternator by using the same procedure as before.
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To replace an alternator, first park the car on a level, even surface and then separate the connection from the negative battery terminal, according to the instructions in this article. Look for and remove the alternator, then jack up the car if you are unable to reach it easily. The primary power line that connects the battery and alternator should be removed with a wrench or a ratchet, and the safety clasp that holds the wire harness together should be released. Take out the auto-tensioner or release the nuts that hold the alternator in place, then remove the old alternator and replace it with the new alternator by following the same procedure as before.
For additional information on replacing an alternator, continue reading. Were you able to benefit from this overview? The writers of this page have combined their efforts to create a page that has been read 434,883 times.
- Before you begin an alternator replacement task, make advantage of the memory saver to back up the electronic information stored in your vehicle’s computer. If you have a serpentine belt or a V belt, you should disconnect the negative battery connector and check the belt that is linked to the alternator to establish whether you have one of these or not. NOTE: The look of a serpentine belt is flat and thin, with ribs on the bottom, but the appearance of a V-belt is V shaped. If the belt is a V belt, go to step 5. Any belt that seems worn, frayed, glazed, or cracked should be replaced. The belt tensioner, which is spring-loaded and responsible for keeping the belt tight, should be located first. Take care not to trap or harm your hand if you loosen the belt and the spring snaps back into place as you loosen the belt. It might be difficult to route the serpentine belt back onto the accessories in the appropriate manner. Continue to be patient and, if required, consult a serpentine belt routing diagram for your specific car. Other devices that are powered by the serpentine belt will have pulleys
- The tensioner, on the other hand, is a roller rather than a pulley, and it will be located on the rear side of the belt. Many contemporary engines may have a tough time getting to the tensioner
- After releasing the tensioner, release and remove the belt from the engine. While you have the belt off, check to see that the tensioner’s roller is still spinning freely and that it is not corroded or otherwise compromised. Eventually, the tensioner will seize after many years and miles
- If it appears old or isn’t rotating readily, now would be an excellent time to replace it. The belt tensioner tool is a flat bar that can accommodate a socket for the tensioner’s nut
- The flat shape makes it easier to maneuver the tool into tight spaces. Pro Tip Its length provides you with additional leverage, and it is far less difficult to use than attempting to complete this task with a socket wrench. Remove the alternator’s wire harness, connections or wiring, and fasteners by removing them one at a time. Use masking tape to identify the wires as you go so you’ll know where they’re supposed to go when it’s time to install the new alternator. Remove the alternator by loosening it and pulling it out. If you have a V-belt, you must first release the alternator before you can remove the V belt, as the alternator is responsible for maintaining belt tension. Replacing the alternator requires retracing the steps used during the disassembly process to ensure that it fits properly and is aligned with the existing bolt holes before proceeding. Depending on the alternator, it may be equipped with a transverse bolt that allows you to move the alternator fore and aft in its bracket in order to adjust the belt tension. It is possible that you may need to use a cheater to hold the alternator in place and remove slack from the belt while you tighten the mounting nuts
- If this is the case, an assistance can aid you. Check the belt tension to make sure it is proper. It is recommended that the V-belt on an older engine with a V-drive has no more than around 1/2″ of deflection in each direction. Check the tension of the V-belt again a few days after the job is completed and make any required adjustments. Reconnect the negative battery connection to the rest of the battery. Connect the voltmeter to the battery and turn on the engine of the car. Inspect for correct voltage, which should be indicated by an alternator output reading between 13.1 and 16.5 volts. You may consider your alternator replacement task completed if everything checks out.
The most recent update was made on August 16, 2021.
How-To: Replace an Alternator
On August 16, 2021, the information was last updated
Step 1: Disconnect the Battery
The first and most critical step is to remove the battery. It’s possible that your alternator has numerous wires or only one wire, but you can be sure that one of them is energized. The chances of grounding a live wire are quite high if you do not unplug the battery before proceeding are also high. A variety of negative consequences result from this, not the least of which is that you receive a significant amount of shock.
Step 2: Disconnect the Wires
Now that the battery has been moved out of the way, separate the wire or wires from the rear of the alternator and store them somewhere safe. Even though this is typically a straightforward procedure, identify them as you release them if you are unclear of where they should go.
Step 3: Remove the Belt From the Pulley
Every job has a rough patch, and the alternator replacement project has a particularly rough patch: removing the belt from the pulley. A tensioner pulley can be found somewhere on your vehicle’s chassis. You’ll have to move it just enough to get the belt to come loose from the pulley. Our 1995 GMC was equipped with a normal spring-loaded GM tensioner, which we had to manually retract using a tool. Depending on the vehicle, screw-type or rod-end tensioners may be installed, which create tension by rotating a bolt through threads to increase or reduce the length of a rod.
To do this in our situation, we used a Craftsman 17mm Cross Force wrench and used considerable force.
Because the Cross Force wrenches have a 90-degree twist in the centre, you’ll wind up pressing on a flat surface while using them.
In the end, we simply got into it and the belt fell loose.
Step 4: Remove Bolts
Once the belt has been removed, just unscrew any nuts that link the alternator to the bracket and you’ll be ready to go. Three bolts were required to be removed from our model: one from the front and two from the back.
Step 5: Halfway There
With the old alternator in your possession, you’ve already made half the journey home. Due to the fact that you already know what size the bolt heads are and where everything is, you’ll probably find that putting the new one back in goes much more quickly.
Step 6: Examine the Replacement
Before reassembly, thoroughly inspect the new unit to ensure that it will function properly in your application. The fact that our replacement came from a junkyard means that it is far dirtier than our old unit, but it does have the advantage of actually operating, which is a major improvement over our previous damaged unit.
Step 7: Reverse the Removal Steps
To complete the project, just reverse the procedures used during the removal process, paying close attention to the belt routing and tensioning. If you bought the Cross Force wrenches just for the task, you’d still be hundreds of dollars ahead of what a shop would charge you – plus you’d get some cool new tools as a bonus.
So go ahead and do it yourself. There are considerably worse consequences that may have occurred. Cross Force Wrenches are a type of wrench that is used to cross two or more lines at the same time.
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Are you looking for suggestions on how to repair an alternator? While this work may appear to be difficult at first glance, it is actually one of the more stress-free DIY projects you can complete with your vehicle in the long run. You can usually remove your old alternator and replace it with a new one using simple hand tools that you probably already have in your garage. The following suggestions, however, can make the procedure go more smoothly while also providing you with piece of mind that the task has been done correctly.
Plan ahead of time
1. Disconnect ThatBattery
Want to know how to repair an alternator correctly? While this work may appear to be difficult at first glance, it is actually one of the most stress-free DIY projects you can complete with your vehicle in terms of time and effort. It is possible to remove and replace your old alternator using simple hand tools that you most likely already have in your garage or workshop. The following suggestions, however, can make the procedure go more smoothly while also providing you with the confidence that the task has been completed correctly.
2. Check That Belt
It is driven by a belt that is attached to the front end of the engine, which is called the alternator. A serpentine design is frequently used for this belt, which means that it snakes its way through a number of additional pulleys to drive a variety of accessories (such as the air conditioner compressor or the power steering pump) in addition to spinning the alternator. When you touch the belt, it should feel snug and without slack. Sagging or looseness might be an indication that the belt is beginning to wear out – look for tiny fractures as well as fraying around the edges to determine this.
Because the belt must be removed in order to replace the alternator, this is an excellent opportunity to install a new belt and tensioner, if necessary.
3. Make Sure You Account for Every Cable
Thealternatoriis operated by a belt that is mounted to the front of the engine and runs through the gearbox. This belt is frequently of the serpentine type, which means that it snakes its way through a number of different pulleys to operate a variety of accessories (such as the air conditioner compressor or the power steering pump) in addition to driving the alternator on the vehicle. With no slack in the belt, it should be tight to the touch. Sagging or looseness might be an indication that the belt is beginning to wear down – look for tiny fractures as well as fraying around the edges to rule this out.
As a result of the need to remove the belt during the alternator repair, this is an excellent opportunity to replace the belt and tensioner, if necessary.
4. Verify Belt Tension … Again
It is not necessary to presume that the belt tension on your new alternator is identical to that on your old unit once it has been installed and the belt has been wound around the pulley. In certain cases, removal is the final stress that is necessary to stretch a belt beyond its usable life or to tamper with the tensioner to the point where it is unable to perform its function. Before you reconnect your battery and turn on the ignition, double-check the belt to ensure it is snug and secure once more.
For routine maintenance and repairs, visit one of our 17,000 NAPA AutoCare shops or shop online for all of the electrical system goods available.
Discuss alternator replacement with a trained specialist at your local NAPA AUTO PARTS shop for further information. Photo courtesy of the Creative Commons licensing agreement.
Benjamin HuntingView All
I was introduced to Studebakers at an early age, and I spent my formative years surrounded by them at automobile exhibitions around Quebec and the northern United States. About 10 years of racing, rebuilding, and obsessing over vehicles has led me to pursue a full-time career in science writing while also working in automotive journalism. As an editor, I presently contribute to various online and print automotive journals, and I also write and consult for companies in the pharmaceutical and medical device industries.
How to repair, change or replace an alternator?
A project like changing your alternator is beyond the capabilities of the ordinary DIY enthusiast. It necessitates the use of someone with extensive experience in motor maintenance and mechanical proficiency. If you’re not sure in your ability to do the work at hand, you’d be far better off delegating it to the specialists. An alternator is an electrical component that is installed in the engine compartment of your vehicle. Its function is to create power in order to recharge the battery. It does this by a link to the engine drive, and when the engine is moving, it generates electrical current.
A regulator is also included in its components, which ensures that the proper quantity of power is circulated throughout the vehicle.
Among those items, you’ll need a belt tensioner tool, a voltmeter, and a few more bits and bobs to make things nice and straightforward.
Step 1 – Safeguard your vehicle’s electronic preset information
The usage of a memory saver to record all of your electronic preset information may be required depending on your vehicle and the requirements of the repair manual you are using. Disconnect the negative battery cable once you’ve gotten everything figured out. Identify if your alternator belt is a V-belt or a serpentine belt by looking at it closely. A serpentine belt will be flat and thin, with ribs running the length of it on the underside. A V-belt is shaped in the shape of a V, as you might expect.
Step 2 – Loosen the serpentine belt
Because the belt tensioner is spring-loaded, you must use extreme caution to ensure that you do not sustain an injury if it snaps back into place. Keep your hands as free as possible whenever possible. If you have to do the task with only one hand, it will be far more difficult! Loosen the belt tensioner in order to obtain easy access to the belt while removing it. It is possible that you may need to be patient with the belt, since it might be difficult to reposition or remove.
Step 3 – Remove the belt
Once you have loosened the tensioner, it should be considerably easier to remove the belt from the vehicle. It’s a good idea to double-check that the belt tensioner is in proper functioning condition at this stage. You should get it changed if it doesn’t operate smoothly, is rusted, or has any other problems.
A belt tensioner tool will provide you with more leverage and improved access to difficult-to-reach locations. If you don’t already have one, you should think about adding one to your toolset as soon as possible. It makes the process a lot simpler than using a normal socket wrench, for example.
Step 4 – Remove all the connected parts
Label all of the wires and fasteners so that you can be confident in knowing which ones belong where when it comes time to reassemble the system.
Step 5 – Loosen the alternator
If your vehicle is equipped with a V-belt, you must first release the alternator before removing the belt from the vehicle. In these circumstances, the alternator is responsible for maintaining belt tension, rather than a separate tensioning component as is the case with the serpentine belt.
Step 6 – Install the new alternator
You want to make certain that the garment has a wonderful, snug fit. All of the bolt holes should be lined correctly, and the bolts should be tightened to the proper tension. All of the connecting components should be replaced with their correct equivalents (as you previously labelled). After that, you should replace the belt. If you’re having trouble getting the belt back on your alternator, there are a few ways you may use to get it back in place. Some alternators are equipped with a transverse bolt that allows the alternator to be moved around on its bracket.
You can use a ‘cheater’ to hold the alternator in place while you tighten it into its proper position if there is no transverse bolt available.
Step 7 – Check the belt tension
You run the risk of causing significant difficulties if you don’t maintain the appropriate level of tension. For further information on how tight your belt should be, go to your maintenance manual. After a few days, you should verify the tension to ensure that it is still correct after a period of settling into the new position.
Step 8 – Reconnect the battery
Replacing the negative terminal of your battery and connecting your voltmeter will allow you to start your automobile. The right output of your alternator should now show a number between 13.1 and 16.5 volts, depending on your vehicle. If your reading is right, you’re finished for the time being. Give yourself a pat on the back and a nice cup of tea to celebrate your accomplishment.
How much is it to replace an alternator?
It is possible that replacing an alternator at a garage may cost you between £100 and £700, with an average cost of between £300 and £400 in most cases. Dealerships and auto franchises will charge you a greater price than other sources. Obviously, the price of higher-end automobiles will rise in tandem with the increase in their market value. The alternator replacement cost for a premium vehicle might range between £500 and £1000 dollars.
How to repair an alternator
Once again, this is not a position for just anyone. Attempting to repair an alternator is not a task for the faint of heart. However, because the excellent operating health of your automobile is dependent on your ability to do this correctly, you want to be very certain that you will be able to do the task effectively. You’ll need the necessary replacement components as well as a good amount of patience to complete the project. To begin, you must first remove the alternator from your vehicle, as described in the preceding procedure.
- It has to be a good fit.
- After that, remove the resistors to gain access to the rectifier and remove it.
- Then you may swap out the old rectifier with the new one, soldering the wires back together to complete the connection.
- When reinstalling the springs, double-check that they are in the proper position.
The voltage regulator must be replaced, and that is the only thing left to do. If you’ve made it this far, congratulations! That’s how to disassemble and reassemble an alternator. Simply reinstall it, fasten the belt, and double-check that everything is working properly before you leave the house.
Replace your alternator
As previously said, this is not an easy task. Alternator repair is not a task for the faint of heart. Although it is not unduly hard, you should be 100 percent confident in your ability to complete the task effectively because the excellent operating health of your automobile is at stake. You’ll need the necessary replacement components as well as a good amount of patience to complete the project successfully. First and foremost, as described in the preceding procedure, you must remove the alternator from your vehicle.
- Snug fit is essential.
- Afterwards, disconnect the resistors to get access to the rectifier and then disconnect the rectifier itself.
- Replace the old rectifier with its replacement, being sure to solder the wires back together before proceeding.
- When reinstalling the springs, make sure they are in the right position.
- Congratulations on making it this far.
- Simply reinstall it, fasten the belt, and double-check that everything is working properly before you leave the house!
How to fit the positive battery cable on your alternator?
Before you begin repairing the positive battery cable of your car’s alternator, you should be aware that there are two wires in your positive battery cable – a shorter wire that is easier to fix and a longer wire that can be more difficult to work on. The shorter wire is the easiest wire to replace. You will need a socket wrench with a 10-millimeter and 12-millimeter diameters for this technique. You will also want a socket extension, a socket driver, a 13-millimeter box end wrench, cable ties, and a floor jack in addition to the other tools.
- To begin, remove the bonnet and unhook both the negative and positive battery connections. Displace the battery’s protective cover by pulling it out. Remove the hold down bolt clamp situated at the base of the battery’s front and set it aside for now. Remove the battery from the automobile and the clamp from the battery
- Take the short wire out of the fuse box and dispose of it properly. Locate it on the positive terminal and follow it all the way to the end of the circuit. Look find the fuse box on the wall. Remove the black cover as well as the nut that is keeping the cable’s end in place on the cable. Extricate the end of the cable from the mounting screw
- Begin removing the long end of the cable from its mounting screw. It is connected to the alternator using a 12-millimeter nut that is located between the starter solenoid and the starter motor. Remove the nut from the end of the cable by using a 12-millimeter socket
- Look for the nut that connects the cable to the starter and remove it. Remove the nut and cable from the mounting screw by using a 12-millimeter socket and a ratchet. Keep in mind that the two nuts are different in size, with the smaller one being for the starter and the bigger one being for the alternator. Remove the cable tie that was keeping the cable to the starting solenoid in place. Look for the three hold down clamps on the top of the engine, starting from the top of the engine. You will notice a 10-millimeter bolt coming out of the battery connector. The first hold down clamp should be removed using a 10-millimeter socket and socket extension
- The second hold down clamp should be located with a 12-millimeter nut. Locate it and remove it using a 12-millimeter socket and extension. The nut for the second hold down clamp is 12 millimeters in diameter. A 12-millimeter socket and extension are required for the removal of the third hold down clamp, which contains a bolt measuring 10 millimeters in diameter. Remove the bolt using a socket and extension with a 10-millimeter drive. Take special caution not to relocate the temperature sensor that is connected to your vehicle’s wiring while doing this procedure. It is really near to the location where the extension socket is put
- It is Remove the remaining hold down wires from their positions. There are two ties that keep the short wires together as well as several longer cables. Allow the two rubber guides to maintain the position of the lengthy cable
- Pull the lengthy cable out slowly and carefully. Once it has been removed, examine it to determine whether it has been damaged. Remove the three clamps from the old cable and attach them to the new cable using the three clamps that were removed. Make sure they are in the same orientation as the original
- In order to install the new cable, do the following:
A wire does not link the alternator to the battery; instead, it is directly connected. The only wires that will be connected to the battery will be the ones that come straight from the car’s positive or negative posts to the positive or negative posts.
What to do if a bolt breaks when taking out an alternator?
It will be necessary to replace the broken bolt with a fresh new bolt if the bolt breaks. It will be tough to remove the damaged bolt from the alternator unless you have the appropriate tools. You might go to an auto repair shop. In exchange for a fair charge, they will remove the bolt from your alternator. When it comes to getting their automobile serviced, some individuals are apprehensive. However, it’s a little amount to pay to ensure that the problem is dealt with appropriately.
If you tighten the battery post and the car turns off does it mean the alternator is dead?
When determining whether or not your alternator is functional, you must complete the following tests: 1.
Get in your car and start it. 2. While the car is running, remove your positive post from the windshield. If your automobile shuts off, it means that your alternator is faulty. If the automobile continues to run, this indicates that the alternator is in excellent working order.
Does alternator have to be ordered or do they stock them somewhere?
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I just replaced alternator but when I pull battery cables off, the car shuts off still? Could something else be wrong or is it faulty replacement alternator for sure?
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Battery light is ON a Saturn 1999 sl1?
I replaced the spark plugs on a Saturn SL1 in 1999, and now the battery light is illuminated.VisiHow QnA is available. This section has not yet been written. Do you want to take part? To compose this response, select EDIT from the drop-down menu.
The bolt is spinning and won’t tighten or come out, any suggestions?
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I just replaced my alternator in my 89 Toyota 4runner?
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Car won’t start after replacement with alternator and left battery connection on battery?
When I was changing the alternator, I accidentally left the positive battery connected and the alternator ignited in the ground, resulting in no power at all. I’ve done everything, including checking for blown fuses and jumping the car’s battery. I believe the following factors contributed to the problem: leaving the battery connected inVisiHow QnA. This section has not yet been written. Do you want to take part? To compose this response, select EDIT from the drop-down menu.
Is it really safe to leave negative battery terminal connected?
When working on the alternator, I believe it would be far safer to disconnect both connections at the same time. Working with metal tools on the positive terminal post while the negative is still clamped can result in a circuit being closed, and this danger would extend to any other electrical connection on the vehicle (of which there are numerous and often hidden), including the alternator, if the circuit was closed. It is never safe, in my view, to disconnect the positive terminal while the negative is still attached to the power source.
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A silver-painted automobile with a gleaming finish. The hood is wet from the rain. Lamp for the car. Image courtesy of Fotolia.com’s Christopher Meder. As soon as an automotive expert discovers a problem with the alternator, he or she will frequently propose either purchasing a new replacement alternator or having the present alternator reconditioned (which basically involves putting a whole new set of innards in the existing housing).
However, if you have the time and willingness, merely removing the alternator may disclose a less expensive solution, such as replacing worn out brushes, if that is all that is required of you. The procedure outlined below is the recommended approach for disassembling your alternator.
Disassembling an alternator
Remove the battery from the system. If you leave the automobile running for a short period of time while disassembling the alternator, the delicate computers in the vehicle might be harmed. Removing the alternator from the car is a good idea. Remove the belt from the pulley by loosening it and sliding it off of it. Afterwards, unscrew the bolts holding the alternator to the front of the engine, unplug the wires that feed into the alternator, and carefully remove the alternator, making a note of the position of the wires that were previously attached to the alternator.
- Positioning the alternator in a vise will allow you to easily remove the pulley nut, which is situated at the middle of the alternator pulley adjacent to the fan and can be reached with a crescent wrench and an Allen wrench (if necessary to keep the shaft in place).
- Lightly tap the drive end frame with a brass or plastic hammer to ensure that it is secure.
- Removing the rotor and stator from the alternator, together with the diode pack, brushes and a variety of bearings, O-rings, bushings, and other components, is recommended.
- Battery should be disconnected. A brief power failure when removing the alternator might cause harm to the vehicle’s sensitive computers. The alternator should be removed from the car. Remove the belt from the pulley by loosening it and sliding it away from it. Afterwards, unscrew the bolts holding the alternator to the front of the engine, unplug the wires that feed into the alternator, and carefully remove the alternator, making a note of the position of the wires that were attached to the alternator. The following methods in this article, while thorough, may not be appropriate for your alternator. Consult a shop manual for specific instructions on dismantling the alternator. In a vice, clamp down the alternator’s shaft and, using a crescent wrench and an Allen wrench (if necessary to keep it in place), remove the pulley nut, which is situated in the center of the pulley adjacent to where the fan is. Remove the pulley from the drive end frame (where the pulley is located) and then the through bolts that connect the drive end frame to the diode end frame. Brass or plastic hammers can be used to tap the drive end frame softly. Remove the drive-end frame from the vehicle’s drive shaft. To dismantle the alternator’s rotor and stator, disconnect the diode pack, remove the brushes, and remove the various bearings, O-rings, bushings, and hardware. Placing these pieces on a worktable will help you to remember where everything goes when you reassemble the alternator. References
- Not all alternator repairs need the disassembly of the entire unit. It is not necessary to remove the diodes while replacing worn alternator bearings, for example. You should not reinstall the brushes if they have been caked with grease or oil
- Instead, replace them with fresh ones.
- Electrical parts such as the rotor, stator, diode pack, and regulator should not be immersed in solvents. This might potentially destroy these sections
Biography of the Author David Eiranova has been a reporter since 2005, and he previously worked for “The Lunenburg Ledger” from 2007 to 2009. He also worked as a journalist for “The Lowell Sun.” He earned a Bachelor of Arts in economics from the University of California, Los Angeles. He has worked as the director of publicity for the Acton Community Chorus since its founding in 2007.
How To Remove and Replace an Alternator
The alternator is responsible for supplying power to the vehicle’s electrical requirements. As a result, learning how to remove and replace an alternator is quite vital for all of you do-it-yourselfers out there. Additionally, the enormous benefit of saving a significant amount of money is always welcome. Step 1: Locate the battery and unplug it from its power supply wires. Unless you do this, you run the risk of grounding a live wire, which is not something you want to happen. Location of the alternator in Step 2.
- This should be done with caution, as you might damage the belt.
- These bolts must be removed with the use of a socket and a ratchet.
- If there are any nuts left on any of the electrical connections, make sure you remove them by disconnecting them completely before continuing.
- Get started by clicking HERE.
- To begin, screw in the nuts that will be used for the electrical connections.
- Carefully reinstall the serpentine belt on the alternator pulley with the help of the serpentine belt tool.
Reconnect the positive battery cable to the battery. Step 7Start your automobile to ensure that the new alternator is charging properly. If you have any queries or issues, please do not hesitate to contact our helpful customer support staff at the following number: 1-800-241-3197
Written byBrad Paugh
View all of Brad Paugh’s blog postings.
Any more detailed steps to replacing alternator?
I called Brecht to get their repair estimate of $1,100, and I called another place, European Auto Center in Poway (which is closer to me), to get their estimate of $650. After getting pricing from Brecht Mini for the 2002 R50 alternator ($525 after discount) and online from ToeOut Performance for $353, I called Brecht to get their repair estimate of $1,100, and I called another place, European Auto Center in Poway (which is closer to me), to get their estimate of $650. In the end, I suppose I’ll let EAC handle it for $650.
- In addition, I’d have to do a few more steps with my CVT.
- Option 1 – Chadtoolio’s technique is the first option.
- 2.Remove the splash shield under the engine by raising the vehicle support.
- 3.Unscrew the screws that hold the bumper cover to the Modular Front End (MFE) 4.Remove the plastic rivets that hold the bumper to the lower spoiler.
- Pull the bumper cover clips from the bumper carrier and set them aside.
8.Remove the bumper cover from the vehicle.
1.Remove the electrical harness for the outside temperature sensor from the vehicle.
3.Take the nuts out of the crush stand tubes.
core support and attach them to the fender liner.
4.Disconnect the horn wire on the right-hand side.
1.Remove the screw that connects the CVT radiator to the radiator.
6.Take the front crush tubes out of the way.
8.Remove the Rad.
To support the MFE, use two 100 mm (4 inch) m8 bolts every 100 mm (4 inch).
10.Take off the alternate belt 1.?
Remove the three alternator bolts, one plug in connector at the alternator, and a ten-millimeter nut on the B positive wire at the alternator.
1.Install a new radiator hose clamp.
Option 2 is the Bentley Service Manual procedure.
2.straighten the retaining tab3.slide the vent valve bracket off the wall Removing the electrical harness connector 4.Removing the splash shield behind the engine using three bolts and two screws 5.Take away the right font wheel.
7.Take off the alternate belt 1.Release the strain on the drive belt with the special tool 11 8 390.
3.remove the drive belt from the vehicle Remove the Intake Manifold from the engine.
Remove the air filter housing.2.
3.Remove the mounting screws for the air filter housing.
Lift the air filter housing and remove the throttle valve assembly.
Loosen and remove the air duct clamp at the throttle assembly.
Disconnect the air duct.
4.disconnect the fuel vent line Remove the four throttle assembly mounting screws that were previously tightened.
Remove the brake booster vacuum line locking ring from the manifold by pressing it downward.
Remove the fuel rail lid.
5.Disconnect electrical harness connector from intake air temp/MAP sensor.6.Disconnect electrical harness connector from knock sensor.7.Disconnect top fuel vent line and unclip at fuel rail (be careful, these plastic clips are fragile and can break easily).2.tilt and pull cover forward until plastic clips detach from fuel rail (be careful, these plastic clips are fragile and can break easily).
- 1.disconnect the electrical harness connector for the fuel injector.2.disconnect the harness connector.3.remove the cover from the harness loom and swing the harness to the left side of the engine.
- 9.Remove the fuel rail and fuel injectors from the intake manifold by doing the following:1.
- gently fold the hose to the right rear of the engine.
- 10.Remove the oil dipstick.11.Remove the intake manifold mounting bolts in a sequential manner, starting from the outside and working your way in.
- 1.Remove three bolts from the alternator, one plug from the alternator’s connection, and a ten-millimeter nut from the B positive wire on the alternator.
- 1.Replace the intake manifold profile gaskets on the engine.
- Fuel rail to intake manifold torque must be 25 Nm or more.
5 – Replace the sealing ring between the throttle valve assembly and the intake manifold 6 – Tighten the throttle valve assembly to the intake manifold to a torque of 9 Nm seven to ten Nm of torque between the air filter housing and the body 8.Install a new air duct clamp.
DIY – Video how to replace Alternator
I called Brecht to get their repair estimate of $1,100, and I called another place, European Auto Center in Poway (which was closer to me), to get their estimate of $650. After getting pricing from Brecht Mini for the 2002 R50 alternator ($525 after discount) and online from ToeOut Performance for $353 I called Brecht to get their repair estimate of $1,100, and I called another place, European Auto Center in Poway (which was closer to me), to get their estimate of $650. Ultimately, I believe I will let EAC to complete it for $650.
I’d also have to take a few more steps if I used my CVT.
Using Chadtoolio’s technique as an example, we have option 1.
Remove the front bumper cover from the vehicle.
Remove the splash shield beneath the engine by raising the vehicle support.
Removal of fasteners that secure bumper cover to position adjustment bracket is required.
Remove the fog lights, turn signals and outdoor temperature sensor from the vehicle.
Remove the bumper cover from the vehicle.
Crush stand tubes should be free of nuts when this step is completed.
Remove the radiator cap lines from the CVT.
To disengage, move your mouse left.
Take the front crush tubes out of the equation.
For access, you must first pull Rad.
1.Install two 100 mm (4 inch) m8 bolts to hold the MFE in place.
10th, take off your alternate belt 1.?
Remove the 3 alternator bolts, one plug into the alternator, and a 10-millimeter nut for the B positive wire on your alternator.
a.Replace the hose clamp on the radiator replace CVT fluid in your vehicle 2.
remove the gasoline tank’s exhaust valve (step three) Using quick fit connections, detach the vent hoses.
remove the electrical harness connector and the splash shield behind the engine using three bolts and two screws.
6.1 Remove and discard the right front wheel housing liner.
Alternate belt should be removed 7.
Lock the drive belt tensioner using a lock pin (special tool 11 8 280).
Intake Manifold should be taken out of service 8.
3.Unscrew the mounting screws for the air filter housing.
Air duct should be disconnected from throttle assembly.
Remove the electric harness connector from the circuit.
Remove the four throttle assembly mounting screws that were previously tightened.
remove the throttle assembly from the vehicle’s ignition system 3.Remove the suction line from the brake booster.
Remove the hose from the PCV valve by pulling it outward.
Release the locking tabs on the back of the cover to remove it.
1.disconnect the electrical harness connector from the fuel injector.2.disconnect the harness connector.3.remove the cover from the harness loom and swing the harness to the left side of the engine.
unclipping hoses and ducting while working at the fuel rail 6.remove two fuel rail mounting nuts and cut the wire tires as necessary5.disconnect vacuum line at the base of the fuel pressure regulator In order to properly disassemble your engine, you will need to:1.
gently fold your fuel line to the right rear of your engine.
Remove the oil dipstick and then the intake manifold mounting bolts, moving from the outside inward.
Remove the alternator from the car.
Gaskets for the intake manifold profile should be replaced first.
4. 5 – Replace the sealing ring between the throttle valve assembly and the intake manifold 6 – Tighten the throttle valve assembly to the intake manifold to a torque of 9 Nm 7. seven to ten Nm of torque between the air filter housing and the body. 8.Replace the clamp on the air ducts.