Traction light on and cruise doesn’t work? (Suits you)

  • When you get a condition like this: Traction light on and cruise doesn’t work, you’ve usually got a problem with a sensor. Before you start throwing any parts at the problem, start by pulling the trouble codes, and not with some cheap code reader.

Does traction control affect cruise control?

Traction control helps the vehicle remain stable during acceleration and it does nothing during braking. Cruise control should be turned off in the rain because an out of control spin or skid is more likely when transferring immediately from powered acceleration to full braking power.

Does the wheel speed sensor affect the cruise control?

Cruise control does not work Since the transmission speed sensors monitor the input and output shaft speed, it also has a hand in monitoring the cruise control. It may be due to faulty transmission speed sensors.

What does it mean when your traction control light comes on and stays on?

Wheel-speed sensors are supposed to detect when one drive wheel is spinning faster than the others — meaning the vehicle is slipping or losing traction. When the traction control warning light stays on, that means you aren’t getting any help from the system to control traction and the system needs to be checked.

What causes traction off light to come on?

If the light blinks on and off intermittently, it can mean that the system is “hard coded” or beginning to deteriorate. This issue can be caused by faulty wheel-speed sensors — which alert your car’s computer to a potential loss of traction — or there could be a problem with the traction-control system’s computer.

Can you drive with traction control light on?

Is it Safe to Drive with the TCS Light On? It is only safe to drive with the TCS light on if it appears when you are losing traction: it means the system is engaging. Driving without traction control can make your vehicle susceptible to spinning out and sliding around on the road.

How do I reset my traction control light?

if the traction control light comes on while you’re driving, but no other warning lights are illuminated, don’t panic. find a safe place to pull over, turn off your vehicle, and then restart it. if a fluke in the tcs system triggered the warning light, it should turn stay off when you restart the engine.

What are the symptoms of a bad speed sensor?

5 Common Bad Speed Sensor Symptoms

  • Transmission problems.
  • Erratic speedometer readings.
  • Inability to engage cruise control.
  • Lack of torque converter clutch application.
  • Check Engine Light is triggered.
  • An internal electrical fault in the speed sensor.
  • Damage on the sensor itself.
  • Poor vehicle maintenance.

What sensor controls cruise control?

A radar sensor is usually at the core of the adaptive cruise control (ACC). Installed at the front of the vehicle, the system permanently monitors the road ahead. As long as the road ahead is clear, ACC maintains the speed set by the driver.

What are the symptoms of a bad wheel speed sensor?

Symptoms of a failing Wheel Speed Sensor

  • Warning lights. We get it.
  • Speedometer doesn’t work. This is a bit of a rare symptom, but can occur, especially in older vehicles.
  • Anti-lock brakes stop working.
  • Traction control and stability control stop working.

How much does it cost to fix traction control?

Traction Control Switch Replacement Cost – RepairPal Estimate. Labor costs are estimated between $37 and $46 while parts are priced at $49. This range does not include taxes and fees, and does not factor in your specific vehicle or unique location. Related repairs may also be needed.

Why wont my traction control light go off?

When this warning indicator light comes on in the dashboard, this could be an indication of several issues such as faulty wheel speed sensors, a faulty steering angle sensor, a faulty rotational speed sensor or a problem with the steering rack.

Does traction control have anything to do with transmission?

Modern vehicles feature electronic traction control, which relied on the use of sensors embedded into the ABS system. This is typically controlled by a combination of sensors, including wheel sensors, transmission speed sensors, and even differential and gear sensors for rear wheel vehicles.

Where is the traction control sensor located?

There are NO traction control sensors, the system use wheel speed sensors to identify if one of the wheels are turning at a significantly higher rate than others. The wheel speed sensors are generally located behind the wheel hub that is looking at the geared wheel.

Traction light on and cruise doesn’t work

When you have a situation like this: the traction light is illuminated and the cruise control does not function, you most likely have an issue with a sensor. Before you start throwing components at the problem, extract the trouble codes using a
proper code reader, not with a cheap code reader. Many of the codes that can disable traction control and hinder cruise functioning are P1000-series and P2000 series codes that can’t be read by an inexpensive scan tool. It is also possible that the problem is a communications ‘U’ or body ‘B’ code.

What are the parts of a traction control and stability control system?

For the most part, early traction control systems simply functioned in conjunction with the anti-lock braking system. When the system detects one wheel locking up or one wheel spinning faster than the others, the system will automatically apply the brakes to the vehicle in question. Late-model systems, on the other hand, are far more complex, and they incorporate not just traction control, but also stability control. Following are the components involved:Steering angle sensor—This informs the system of your steering intentions.

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Lateral acceleration— a sensor detects the vehicle moving sideways.Wheel speed— sensors measure the rotational speed of each wheel.

How traction and stability control work

The inputs from all of the sensors listed above are monitored by the traction/stability computers. If the system detects that the car is moving in a different direction (yaw or lateral acceleration) than that indicated by the steering wheel angle sensor, it will reduce engine power and apply individual brakes to try to bring the vehicle back to the desired direction as quickly as possible. Additionally, the cruise control system will be disabled instantly.

How to diagnose

It is possible to conduct tests on individual sensors once the trouble codes have been obtained. Mechanical components such as the steering angle sensor and wheel speed sensors are the most common failure locations, but electronic components such as the yaw and lateral acceleration sensors employ electronic gyro and acceleration technology are the least common failure areas. Rick Muscoplat posted a blog entry on

Another ESC, Stop Lights & Cruise Problem

This is the case with my 2010 Malibu LS 4 Cyl 45K: the ESC/Traction Control is shown as OFF (and, as a result, the cruise control does not function), and the ESC dash warning light is illuminated. The brake lights are illuminated continuously until you use the brakes, after which they are illuminated for exactly five seconds every time you remove your foot from the brake pedal. Onstar displays an ABS Code that is not displayed on the dash, which is in addition to the ESC/Traction Control problem that is displayed on the dash.

This is ludicrous, and General Motors should check into it and at the very least publish a technical advisory to address the issue.

We’ll most likely have to wait until someone gets injured or worse as a result of being smashed into from behind before taking action.

I had always been a Ford client up until I purchased this vehicle, so I guess I’m going back to Ford.

On my 2009 Malibu, I’m seeing a same set of symptoms. It is precisely as you mentioned that my brake light acts when I have the Service ESC, Traction Control, and Cruise Control activated. Could you please tell me what steps you took to resolve the situation?

Service Stabilitrak, Service Traction Control, Cruise.

I’ve investigated this site and a slew of others, and it appears that a large number of folks are experiencing problems with the Service Stabilitrak/Traction Control lights. Replacement of the Brake Light Switch has been proposed by several people as a solution to the problem. Other folks have expressed concern that these concerns are accompanied by decreased engine power, poor gas mileage, and other problems. No one has come up with a specific answer. Is it possible that I’m mistaken? I’m crossing my fingers that I’m incorrect.

  1. Even though the cruise control did not function at all when we got the truck, no warning lights were on and there were no other visible faults with the vehicle.
  2. It was several months before there were any issues with the cruise control because it worked flawlessly.
  3. I returned the Brake Light Switch to the dealership, and they replaced it with a new one.
  4. In the message center, we began to see the flashing alerts for Service Stabilitrak, Service Traction Control, and Traction Control Off around 2-3 weeks ago.
  5. When the warning lights come on, the cruise control is rendered inoperable.
  6. It has not been seen that the vehicle’s engine power or gas mileage has been diminished in any way, as has been observed by others who have experienced the identical warning lights illuminate.
  7. According to what I’ve read about similar difficulties with these warning lights, the dealer has no idea what to do, and their assumptions have cost customers thousands of dollars with no apparent remedy in sight, according to my research.
  8. Some people, on the other hand, claim that this has not resolved their problem.

2001 STS Traction Control lit, Cruise Control Not working

After installing new coil banks and a new PCV pipe, it appeared that I had resolved the (Smog Check) engine issues. The cruise control cable had become damaged, but a new one had been bought and fitted. The cruise control was still not functioning properly. There is no service. EngineSoon indicator light The Traction Control light remains illuminated. I realized that I didn’t have any tail lights; a couple of weeks ago, the LED bar across the trunk lid wanted to stay on but wouldn’t turn off; and the stop lights were also not working.

  • The LED bar was now fully illuminated.
  • I replaced both lights with 3157 LED bulbs because they have a lower wattage and so produce less heat.
  • The Cruise Control, on the other hand, is still not engaged, and the Traction Control indicator is still illuminated.
  • Since I changed the brake lamp switch and the brake lights now turn on and off with the movement of the brake pedal, it is reasonable to assume that there is another defect that caused this code to be generated.
  • According to the archives, it is also possible that a defective capacitor has been plugged into this switch.
  • Could a low brake fluid level or a faulty brake fluid sensor be the cause of this DTC?
  • Is it possible that the problem stems from the fact that a shock resistor was not installed?
  • Thoughts?
  • However, the local electronic parts provider is only open from Monday to Friday, in case I want a cap sooner rather than later.

The automobile appears to be totally operable, and I do not require cruise control in local traffic or on remote country roads; still, I would want to complete this project as soon as possible rather than waiting.

(’09-’13) – CEL, traction control light, and.

I’d want to offer my own personal experience with this subject. I believe I have found a solution to my problem (at least for the time being), and I wanted to share it in case it helps anyone else. My 2012 Forester had around 65 000 kilometers on the odometer when I purchased it. The problem did not manifest itself until a very recent period of time, perhaps around 75 000 kilometers. I was traveling down the interstate when the check engine light, the traction control light, and the flashing cruise control light all illuminated at the same time, seemingly at random.

  • The lights, on the other hand, are enough to give you a creepy impression.
  • After reading this discussion, I came to the conclusion that because the real check engine light was not flashing but was solid, the situation was not so urgent that I needed to rush to the nearest technician.
  • The first and simplest option was to top up the petrol and double-check that the fuel cap was securely fastened to the tank.
  • In order to do this task, I unplugged the battery for around one minute.
  • I’ve found to be really user-friendly and useful in my research.
  • So the next least costly option I tried was STP fuel injector cleaning mixed with a fresh tank of gas, which I got at a gas station.
  • Earlier in this discussion, I read that someone had found a solution to their problem using this code.
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After dealing with check engine lights in my prior car and now in this ‘new’ vehicle, I made the decision to purchase my own code reader to use at home.

It turned out to be a highly beneficial endeavor.

In addition, because the code reader is inexpensive, I feel confident in placing it in my center console in the event of a future code being shown.

I noticed that the Forester struggled to get going on at least two occasions while I was getting it started for the first time.

Within another 200 kilometers, you’ll be there.

The code is the same.

Based on what I’d read on this and other boards, it appeared to make sense (although much of it was a bit over my head).

However, it is a really simple thing to get your hands on.

After that, I allowed it to dry completely before reinstalling it.

Taking into consideration that the code reader was not required, the injector cleaner and MAF sensor cleaner only cost me approximately $20 total for the pair. I cringe to think how much money I could have saved by not going to the dealership.

3rd Gen Toyota Prius(Check PCS Light/Traction Control Light/Check Cruise Control System Light.

  1. Let me share my own experience with this matter. Fortunately, for the time being, my issue has been resolved, and I wanted to share my findings in case they are of use to others. It had around 65 000 kilometers on the clock when I purchased it. Not until lately, perhaps around 75 000 kilometres, did the problem manifest itself. Suddenly, while driving down the highway, the check engine light, the traction control light, and the flashing cruise control light all illuminated at the same time, as if by chance or design. Apart from the fact that I was no longer able to utilize the cruise control (which I hadn’t been doing), I couldn’t detect any other signs of poor performance. But simply looking at them might evoke a terrifying sense of foreboding. The P0171 System Too Lean error code was discovered after I borrowed a friend’s code reader from him. Because the real check engine light was not flashing but was solid, I thought that it was not so critical that I should proceed to a repair right away after reading this discussion. I turned to the internet for assistance in order to save money on the guesswork of a garage. Adding more petrol and making sure the fuel cap was securely fastened was the first and cheapest option. I had already returned the code reader, therefore I needed to reset the lights and error code in order to determine whether or not the problem had been rectified in the end. It took roughly a minute to complete this task after I unplugged the battery from the laptop. For me, even basic things like this make me anxious since I am not a self-assured auto mechanic. has shown to be extremely user-friendly and beneficial. For example, I utilized this site to replace the light bulbs in my house. The CEL, traction light, and flashing cruise light returned after a short drive of less than 200 kilometers. After that, I decided to try STP fuel injector cleaning, which I purchased at a gas station and put into a fresh tank of gas to see how it worked. In a previous post in this topic, I read that someone had found a solution to their problem using this code. And then I re-entered the code in the machine. After dealing with check engine lights in my prior car and now in this ‘new’ vehicle, I made the decision to purchase my own code reader for my convenience. It cost roughly $25 CAD to purchase the Veepeak Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner for Android from Amazon. Overall, it has proven to be really beneficial. Using the free Torque Lite program, I was able to read that the P0171 System Too Lean code was present once more, and then I was able to reset the code. In addition, because the code reader is inexpensive, I feel confident at putting it in my center console in the event of a subsequent code being received. My attention had been drawn to yet another symptom at this point. I noticed that the Forester struggled to get going on at least two times when I was first starting it up. Actually, I had to press the gas pedal a little bit to get it going. The distance is only 200 kilometers. All of a sudden, the lights went on. The code is the same as always. In order to keep costs down, the Mass Air Flow Sensor needed to be cleaned next. On light of everything I’d read in this and other forums, it sounded reasonable to me (although much of it was a bit over my head). After purchasing cleaner from Canadian Tire for roughly $10, I went online to locate some instructions on a website that is regrettably no longer accessible. However, it is a piece that is incredibly simple to get to and understand. I gave the inside and outside of the house several short blasts of the cleaner, taking care not to let it come into contact with any other surfaces (while wearing gloves and goggles). Before reinstalling it, I allowed it to properly dry. Given that I’ve already driven approximately 1000 kilometers, I’m certain that the problem is no longer an issue. With the understanding that the code reader was not required, the injector cleaner and MAF sensor cleaning came to roughly $20 total for the two items. When I think about how much money I might have saved by not going to the dealer.
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Attached Files:

For the record, the Steering Angle Sensor is the proper name for that particular creature. If the problem is with the steering angle sensor, there will be specific codes for that component, and owners who take the time to retrieve their trouble codes will have a much simpler and straighter path to resolving their problem than those who try to guess which component is at fault based solely on the lights that are illuminated. For the benefit of anyone else who is in the dark: PCS is an abbreviation for Pre-Collision System.

  1. It would be great if it were that simple, but it has to be a pain in the buttocks, as with anything.
  2. I have always done all of the work on my cars and have an OBD 2 reader, but often when you scan cars, that does not imply that you will be directed to the correct area, again, I wish it were that simple.
  3. I’m simply trying to assist thousands of people save money.
  4. Thanks to God, I was able to eventually draw a master tech to the side and have a long conversation with him.
  5. because I was on the verge of losing my mind!

There are tons of youtube videos on why the Toyota Prius plug in advanced is so rare, and eventually our hybrid batteries will need to be rebuilt, which I would be happy to assist with, you can rebuild for $300, and I had another thread on adding more hybrid batteries, ppl have been doing it for awhile, I’ve seen some who have added 5 batteries, but there is no room in the back, but the MPGE they get is insane!

I have the rarest Toyota Prius, The Toyota prius plug in Location:CaliforniaJoined:Jun 16, 20202320Location:California Model:Plug-in Advanced Vehicle:2012 Toyota Prius Plug-in Location:CaliforniaJoined:Jun 16, 20202320Location:California Model:Plug-in Advanced Vehicle:2012 Toyota Prius Plug-in Clockspring is much easier, but you are Right, therefore for the Record, Chapman wins, as stated above.

It’s like Australia, in the United States, if someone asks a yes or no question, you respond with either yes or no, in Australia, they jacked up the English language so badly that it makes no sense, to say yes, they say, ‘Yea, no, yea, no, yea, no, well it landed on no, so you would think that means no, but it means the opposite, it means Yes, ‘Yea, no, ye Since of this, I prefer Clockspring because it is much simpler, and it appears on every website I am aware of when you type Clockspring.

Some websites just list Clockspring, but as I previously stated, you win if you want to become technical because that is the term.

Toyota charged me $746.00, but screw Toyota, I’m doing it myself, and I hope you are as well, as it is one of the easiest automobiles to perform a transmission and oil change service on.

Location:CaliforniaJoined:Jun 16, 20202320Location:California Model:Plug-in Advanced Vehicle:2012 Toyota Prius Plug-in The Toyota prius plug-in hybrid has a bigger battery than the conventional prius; during my 79-mile commute to work, the battery lasted longer.

Date of joining: August 22, 20175,3023,7381 Wilkes Land is the location.

You’ll find it if you look hard enough. As a result, referring to the steering angle sensor as the ‘clockspring sensor’ is less effective, because it is not known by that name, and if you try to find it using that term, you will not find many results.

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